jenny
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Apr 16, 2016 15:18:37 GMT -5
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Post by jenny on Apr 16, 2016 15:18:37 GMT -5
When I did baths I used the water from tank, if the water from tank has prazipro and medicated ws, would that water be safe for baths with kanaplex, metro & mb?? Or do I need fresh water? I don't see sugar like grains on fish, which ick looks like, right? I just wanna get these fish healthy & cloud eye gone, my oldest gf has had it over a year now, looks like big white globs inside eye, my email is jennlynn38.jc@gmail.com so I may purchase fungus stuff for eyes, thank yal for all of ur help & advice, I so appreciate it! #
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jenny
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Apr 16, 2016 16:18:55 GMT -5
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Post by jenny on Apr 16, 2016 16:18:55 GMT -5
So I'm looking closer at fish and see like clear hairs with air bubble floating from their bodys, mucous on skin? Ick??
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jenny
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Apr 16, 2016 17:47:44 GMT -5
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Post by jenny on Apr 16, 2016 17:47:44 GMT -5
To better explain this on my white gf I see like slime floating on parts of her & tiny air bubbles on this slime & the air bubbles can float off her, but she has alot of them on the bottom of her...she is the most irritated, so not sure if it's ick or her mucous coating with air bubbles, I see these air bubbles on my black fish & they can float away, I don't know what I'm doing, I'm so stressed, my poor fish
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jenny
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Apr 16, 2016 18:13:21 GMT -5
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Post by jenny on Apr 16, 2016 18:13:21 GMT -5
Also she gets startled easily clamping fins sometimes, some red streaks going thru bottom fins, also all their eyes seem worse now, more blood showing in a few of their eyes, my white gf I can barely see a little mucous hanging off one of her eyes. & with air bubbles
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jenny
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Apr 18, 2016 8:20:40 GMT -5
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Post by jenny on Apr 18, 2016 8:20:40 GMT -5
I have prazipro & medicated ws in tank now, I ordered another medicated ws also, would it be safe to do baths again with the kanaplex, furan 2, mb..if my fish are not to stressed?
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Apr 18, 2016 8:37:00 GMT -5
Post by Carl on Apr 18, 2016 8:37:00 GMT -5
The original recommendation (also based on the article recommendation) was the use of the Medicated Fish Baths along with the more mild Medicated Wonder Shell treatment "in tank". This has often been a strong combination where each procedure by itself would not work as often as this combination. From: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/MedicatedWonderShell.html"this product is a great accompaniment to "out of tank" fish baths"At this point, you could repeat this process, this time including a full Medicated Wonder Shell. Or you could try a stronger in tank treatment of "AAP ParaGaurd, Metronidazole, & Furan 2 " Carl As Mike noted, you can still take up the offer for the Eye-Fungex (if Devon has not already sent the invoice) As for the Prazi Pro, based on your pictures and symptoms, this would not be my first choice, rather than I have noted above. At this point, do not add the Medicated Wonder Shell or ParaGuard mixed treatment along with the baths Carl
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jenny
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Apr 18, 2016 8:50:42 GMT -5
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Post by jenny on Apr 18, 2016 8:50:42 GMT -5
So I'm confused. I have a medicated ws in tank now with prazipro. .I will be honest I don't know what I'm doing, everything I read I think the fish have at this point. .what do u suggest I do??
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Post by Carl on Apr 18, 2016 9:02:13 GMT -5
So I'm confused. I have a medicated ws in tank now with prazipro. .I will be honest I don't know what I'm doing, everything I read I think the fish have at this point. .what do u suggest I do?? I would keep these together for now, especially since the MWS is likely considerably exhausted. I think we have gone back & forth so much, you have missed my original recommendations This was the detailed medicated baths along with the Medicated Wonder Shell at the same time. Then allowing time to adjust water parameters, as optimal water parameters and feeding can make as much difference as ll the meds in the world After this I suggested the cited combination treatment that included ParaGuard I strongly urge you to read these articles (maybe a few times), and then follow all recommendations (if at all possible): www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.htmlwww.fishbeginner.info/home/what-makes-a-healthy-aquarium-or-unhealthy/I sent the Eye-Fungex invoice.
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jenny
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Post by jenny on Apr 18, 2016 9:14:24 GMT -5
Oh gosh I have been reading, it may not show but I promise I have. .so I'm thinking just do the one treatment of prazipro and add carbon back in few days, keep tank clean, give fish break for few weeks & do the first recommended treatment WITH medicated ws in tank, baths & medicated food...since I did see some improvement for a few days anyway. .does that sound ok?
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Post by Carl on Apr 18, 2016 13:24:12 GMT -5
Oh gosh I have been reading, it may not show but I promise I have. .so I'm thinking just do the one treatment of prazipro and add carbon back in few days, keep tank clean, give fish break for few weeks & do the first recommended treatment WITH medicated ws in tank, baths & medicated food...since I did see some improvement for a few days anyway. .does that sound ok? Yes! Hopefully you will not even need to go back to the original treatment, as I really am not comfortable with this constant use of medications. Concentrate on the environment after finishing this round. Make sure to follow as much or all the advice given in these articles I gave in my last post. Carl
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jenny
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Post by jenny on Apr 21, 2016 20:15:58 GMT -5
I was in the process of ordering a UV sterilizer & not sure on what to get for my 45 gallon aquarium. .hopefully my fish make it. .I know nothing about these or how to install. .I have a Marineland canister filter & Marineland penguin bio-wheel filter, 45 gallon aquarium, what would be a good UV sterilizer & easy to install? ?
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Post by troybtj on Apr 22, 2016 3:01:42 GMT -5
I'd suggest the 9W from This page. Which model of Marineland Canister do you have? The size of UV depends on output, but 9W should be fine for anything filtering a 40gallon aquarium without making tsunami waves. You could get the standalone UV Sterilizer only and put it in the return line from your canister filter if the fittings are the same size, or get the kit with the pump and extra filter (at the bottom of the page linked above) for a "plug and play" solution.
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Post by Carl on Apr 22, 2016 9:03:44 GMT -5
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jenny
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Apr 22, 2016 13:50:45 GMT -5
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Post by jenny on Apr 22, 2016 13:50:45 GMT -5
I'd suggest the 9W from This page. Which model of Marineland Canister do you have? The size of UV depends on output, but 9W should be fine for anything filtering a 40gallon aquarium without making tsunami waves. You could get the standalone UV Sterilizer only and put it in the return line from your canister filter if the fittings are the same size, or get the kit with the pump and extra filter (at the bottom of the page linked above) for a "plug and play" solution.
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jenny
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Apr 22, 2016 13:52:37 GMT -5
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Post by jenny on Apr 22, 2016 13:52:37 GMT -5
I have Marineland C-220, I already have alot of current, knocks my little black moor around some, so that's what I'm wondering & worried about a little bit..plus I don't know much about these but trying to learn
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jenny
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Apr 22, 2016 15:12:42 GMT -5
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Post by jenny on Apr 22, 2016 15:12:42 GMT -5
I'm also thinking of doing away with the HOB bio-wheel filter & changing it to a sponge type filter after a few things I have read
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Post by troybtj on Apr 22, 2016 16:29:58 GMT -5
I have Marineland C-220, I already have alot of current, knocks my little black moor around some, so that's what I'm wondering & worried about a little bit..plus I don't know much about these but trying to learn The UV Sterilizer would go between the output of your filter and the existing spraybar on the return side. Sounds like you have plenty of pressure to push through the additional sterilizer. The 9W Sterilizer only is all you need once you know the diameter of the hoses you have to/from your canister. Then a cut in the hose where you can put the sterilizer (preferably horizontally), then connect the two ends of the hose to the sterilizer and you are ready to turn it all on again. No need for the kit that includes the pump/hose/sterilizer in one kit. I strongly suggest the sponge pre-filters. I have a 40gallon and one canister filter and one HOB filter. I'm using the FilterMax 2 on my HOB filter and the FilterMax 3 on the canister filter intake. They are priceless. In addition to not allowing fry/baby fish to be sucked into the filter, they provide excellent mechanical pre-filtering so that I've not had to change the media in the HOB filter nearly as often compared to the tank without a pre-filter, maybe once per 3 months? Cleaning is pretty simple, when flow rate is reduced, power the filters down, remove sponge from 'basket', and squeeze a few dozen times in siphoned out tank water. I find I need to do this about once per month or so. The difference between the 2 and 3 sponge filters is the sponge density. The HOB filter pulls through the denser #2 filter without problems, and the media inside of it stays sparkly clean. The canister filter with the higher flow rate pulls through the #3 filter. I'd suggest the same pre-filters for your setup. You'll be very glad you did for ease of maintenance as well as cost savings in the long term! Filter Max 2 (Denser sponge for HOB filter) Filter Max 3 (More open sponge for higher flow rate on canister filter) The ordering is hard to find, it's a drop down box at the bottom of the page where you specify which filter you'd like. They are both the same physical size, only difference is foam material. They also come with a complete set of fittings and elbows to fit any round intake with a bit of creativity. Here is my setup below, the Filter Max 3 is on the left feeding the canister filter back to the spray bar at upper left, the Filter Max 2 is on the Right, feeding the HOB filter on the right 1/3 of the tank. This was when the tank was still new, it's still doing great! I have yet to need new filter media for either filter in several months, regular rinsing has been adequate for both pre-filters and in-filter pads! Just be sure to use de-chlorinated water (Seachem Prime with Tap) so the bacteria aren't killed off. I also only rinse out only one filter at a time, leaving a couple weeks before doing the other, so that if the bacteria are killed off, there's backup. I'm sure Carl or Devon will be along with more precise information, but this has worked out great for me, and I would never set up an aquarium without a sponge pre-filter again, nor without Good UV Sterilization (not the cheap algae removing ones found at chain stores and on eBay/amazon).
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Apr 22, 2016 17:07:25 GMT -5
Post by Carl on Apr 22, 2016 17:07:25 GMT -5
I do not think I could have explained this any better Troy!
Thanks for taking the time to show Jenny your set up and explain the hows and whys
Carl
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jenny
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Post by jenny on Apr 22, 2016 17:48:24 GMT -5
Wow, thank u so much!! I have been stressing myself over all of this & you definitely helped to answer alot of questions
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Post by troybtj on Apr 22, 2016 19:01:17 GMT -5
I am happy to help out somebody else, especially since your tank is similar sized to mine. Thanks to the info on AAP's website, I've gone from having Mollies maybe breed and produce a dozen babies surviving to adult a year to having a hundred of them or more since they are continually breeding, and the young are all surviving. That's the biggest testament I can give right there to say "My fish are extremely happy". I'm not affiliated with AAP, I'm just a fan because of the correct "scientific method" technical yet easy to read articles they provide. It takes a good while to get through them all, but the time spent is worth it. I've since gotten and studied textbooks on commercial fish farming, aquatic chemistry, and similar topics, and I can say that I haven't found anything incorrect in the information given. After reading AAP's site, a LOT of things I'd seen in my previous decades of fish keeping made a lot more sense. Poor water quality had me intermittently battling Ich, randomly losing a fish here and there, and other oddities. It was all written up to "Black Magic" and "it happens" by the fish shops. I haven't lost a fish since setting up the aquariums' water following the methods they suggest, which have been posted in this thread. I'm in an area with very poor tap water, so the information was priceless. There's simply too much conflicting information and myth perpetuated on many "answer this question" sites, and now I sound like Carl because as they say, the proof is in the pudding. The downside is I need to find room for another aquarium now. Maybe that's an upside. Following the advice here is the best thing you can do for your fish. The heart of it is this: You don't keep fish, you have pet water that pretty fish happen to live in.
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