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Post by Carl on Sept 13, 2014 10:25:45 GMT -5
Excellent observation! Carl
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cheri
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Post by cheri on Sept 13, 2014 12:56:49 GMT -5
Hi,
So many Thanks to you all for the help and good thoughts.
I haven't figured out yet how to get someone's statement into a quote box. I did do it once but it was clearly by mistake.
So, using a breeder box to hold the fish in while going through a series of baths is an excellent idea. I actually looked into this but the tanks my bettas are in are small and I would have to take everything but the heater out so I could fit one in. A five gallon-up size tank could definitely hold a box. For now the fish have places get away to. There is some driftwood, plants (silk & real), and a tree trunk hole where he can go to in the tank.
I would like to know if I might have dosed the bathes improperly. I added 1/2 tsp. aquarium salt, 1/2 tsp. Furan2, 1/2 tsp. Kanaplex (except the 2nd day that I OD with a 5 gallon dose), and 4 drops of MB. This is for 1 Qt. or water. I used 5 tsp. of water mixed with 1 scoop of Kanaplex. This is equivalent to a 5 gallon dose. Then 5 tsp. water with 1/2 pkg. of Furan 2, also equivalent to a 5 gallon dose. So adding 1/2 tsp. each of the Kana, and Furan2 would be a double dose of each to the 1 Qt. bath. OR...did I really blow it on the dosing??? Something just really seems off...
The only medication that has been going into the tank so far is Furan2. One treatment every 48 hrs. Unfortunately, I don't know any other way than the 100% w/c with each 48 hr. dose. I don't want the older medicine to become toxic in the water. Today, is going to be the start of a second dose of Furan2. You made a suggestion Carl that I should use uran2 & Kanaplex as an in tank treatment if I stop the baths? I was told some time ago, that Kana should be changed out of the tank daily or it becomes toxic. Yea or nay?
In tank water heater has been turned down to 75 degrees but with our home thermostat set at 80 degrees it's impossible to get the tanks water down to 75. We cannot afford to turn the homes thermostat down any; thought I'd sure like too.
Also, back in '07 with Mr. Limpett, my first betta, a blue crown-tail, he ended up with what looks like the same thing that B-blue has, except it started at his caudal fin and consumed into the flesh. By well intentioned advise I used Kanaplex in his tank for weeks and he just kept getting worse. I eventually euthanized him although I know I waited far too long before I did it, but I hoped, I wanted for the medicine to work.
I truly don't want to be difficult to anybody here. You are all kind and very patient and I appreciate all the help and good advise you keep giving to me and others who may read this post. I'm very disappointed with myself for not doing the right thing for the bettas. I knew they should be in bigger tanks with sponge filters. Still people tell me how their fish are doing so well in smaller tanks without heaters, filters, etc. You know, when my neighbor bought B-blue, he was in a vase with a plant and he was so gorgeous, and building humungous bubblenests.
Angelmix, I couldn't stop smiling )when I read about King the laid back betta! So funny.
Blessings
Cheri
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cheri
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Post by cheri on Sept 13, 2014 13:35:42 GMT -5
Hi, Just would like to clarify in the last post that when B-blue was living in a vase, the plants roots were in the water with him, and not the plant.
Carl, I'll be doing a 100% w/c today, adding a new dose of Furan2. Would it be beneficial to give him a bath during this time since I have to take him out of the tank anyway. Giving him a bath every 48 hrs. would it helpful or not? I will have to do another 100% w/c on this coming Tues. and possibly a final w/c this coming Thurs. So all in all he could have three more baths.? No way will I try to swab him ever again!
I took a few pictures yesterday of B-blue but also of Kim. If there is anything you see with her please, someone say something. I see a change in her color between her flesh and pelvic fin. Her left eye may be a tad bigger, but it has a red color inside and seems like she is blind in that eye. Its been this way for as long as I can remember. She has been at home here for a year now. I want to hope that I'm worrying for nothing.
Thank You. CheriAttachment DeletedAttachment DeletedAttachment Deleted
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Sept 13, 2014 13:51:51 GMT -5
Hi,I haven't figured out yet how to get someone's statement into a quote box. I did do it once but it was clearly by mistake. You just hit the Quote respond box at the top of the post you are wanting to quote. Breaking apart posts (like I'm doing here) is a little more HTML work. I would like to know if I might have dosed the bathes improperly. I added 1/2 tsp. aquarium salt, 1/2 tsp. Furan2, 1/2 tsp. Kanaplex (except the 2nd day that I OD with a 5 gallon dose), and 4 drops of MB. This is for 1 Qt. or water. I used 5 tsp. of water mixed with 1 scoop of Kanaplex. This is equivalent to a 5 gallon dose. Then 5 tsp. water with 1/2 pkg. of Furan 2, also equivalent to a 5 gallon dose. So adding 1/2 tsp. each of the Kana, and Furan2 would be a double dose of each to the 1 Qt. bath. For me, it was cutting the treatments, because of the smaller dose and converting gallons into quarts, that are making it confusing. The treatment recommendations are for gallons, but you are trying to make a 1 quart treatment. I understand why, but I get confused too. For ease... 4 quarts to 1 gallon.MB- 10 drops per gal = about 3 drops per quart Salt (NaCl)- 1 tsp. per gal = 1/4 tsp. per quart. --- Can go up to 3/4 tsp. per quart for hard issues (gradually add) Furan-2- 1 pack per 10 gal ( bath double dose). = .2 per gallon = .05 per quart How you get this into tsp. I do not knowKanaplex- 1 scoop per 5 gal = .2 per gallon = .05 per quart again, How you get this into tsp. I do not know You would have to convert it, like how this thread talked about, or, do you best guess.www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2009/07/fish-baths.htmlOR...did I really blow it on the dosing??? Something just really seems off... I think you're pretty close, I just don't know how you are converting into tsp. I was told some time ago, that Kana should be changed out of the tank daily or it becomes toxic. Yea or nay? For the Kanaplex, it would be combined with the Furan-2. 25% water change before each treatment. Information on Kanaplex (kanamycin)In tank water heater has been turned down to 75 degrees but with our home thermostat set at 80 degrees it's impossible to get the tanks water down to 75. Floating some ice might help, you would just have to be content, but just when it's really warm. I truly don't want to be difficult to anybody here. You are all kind and very patient and I appreciate all the help and good advise you keep giving to me and others who may read this post. You are not being difficult. Others are learning from your questions too. It's a learning curve and you have to start it by asking questions. We appreciate you on this forum.
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Sept 13, 2014 14:01:44 GMT -5
Hi, Just would like to clarify in the last post that when B-blue was living in a vase, the plants roots were in the water with him, and not the plant.
Carl, I'll be doing a 100% w/c today, adding a new dose of Furan2. Would it be beneficial to give him a bath during this time since I have to take him out of the tank anyway If you are going to give him baths, I would do it per Carl's instructions. "The schedule is generally 20-30 minutes at least once per day, twice if the fish will tolerate this frequency." www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2009/07/fish-baths.htmlHonestly, I had a betta in a vast one time with bamboo roots in the water. He lived a long while (3-4 years), but my cat ended up getting him in the end. I wonder if it has something to do wit the plant roots. He was also a healthy betta to begin with, so just keeping content parameters worked well for him. It's just not the optimum, but it can be done and it's better than nothing.
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Post by Carl on Sept 13, 2014 17:35:14 GMT -5
Kim's one eye does look a bit larger than normal, however I cannot be sure if she is blind or not. A bath may be good for this eye, but primarily with salt, Methylene Blue, and Erythromycin (since eye infections are usually gram negative) Reference: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2009/01/streptococcus-eye-infections.htmlDevon covered bath dosing well, as I too am unclear where you are getting the teaspoon conversions, as while a double dose is not a problem, going well over with teaspoon measurements would definitely be an over dose. In tank water changes is best every other day so as to not remove active medications and then re-treat with both. Carl
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cheri
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Post by cheri on Sept 13, 2014 18:57:20 GMT -5
Hi,
On an earlier post here I talked about converting medicine packets like Furan2, for smaller tanks.
Each Furan2 packet is a single dose for a 10 gallon tank. To simplify on dosing a 1 gallon tank, take a Tbsp. or tsp. (use either one as long as it's the same one used when adding dose into the tank). Take 10 tsp. of tank water and put into a small bowl, then add medicine packet into the 10 tsp. of water, mix together well. Now, to dose a 1 gallon bowl, you would use 1 tsp. of the mix. Each one of the 10 tsp. = 1 gallon. So to do a double dose for a quart would = 1/2 tsp. Discard any of the un-used mixture, and never save it to use the following day. Always use fresh!
Carl, I'm still confused. I haven't changed B-blues water yet. I really don't want to have to do the 100% w/c but that's the only way to rid out the old medicine in there. Should I go ahead with the 100% water changes every other day and re-medicate, or is it's okay to do a partial w/c every other day and add new medicine in with the old? How much of a w/c should be done? Then, at the end of treatment, do I change out 100% or do something different? Just a reminder: the tank does not have a filter or bubbler. Only a bottle w/Matrix.
The only reason I think Kim is blind in her left eye is when food is put on her left side she doesn't see it. She does get quite excited at feed time with jumping and zipping around so maybe she sometimes doesn't see the food.
BTW, I still have some Nirox Bio-lif from a few years back. Would this still be good to use? I wasn't comfortable with it cause the water turned brown as tea. Thought I might have added too much as to OD so I stopped using it. If its okay to use than how much for a 2 gallon tank would you say? It says that it has medicinal use that may be real helpful.
Something else, yesterday I prepared a 5 gallon bucket of water for the fish and the PH is 8.0 and nitrates are 10+. The tap water here gets very lousy about this time of year. This is a water mix of 3gallons tap with 2 gallons RO water. Right now the fishes in tank PH is 7.6.
Good advice on putting ice shavings into the tanks water to cool. Use only water that is made for the fishes tank. Never untreated water out of the tap.
Again, Thank you much. Cheri
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Post by angelminx on Sept 14, 2014 1:37:11 GMT -5
King really is a busy-body, he's into everything. When I had to put my ram (in the Net Breeder) in the tank with him, he would swim around constantly eyeing him. And when I had to do a couple of swabs for Gramps (my oldest Black Phantom) at the same time I did the medicated baths for King, I put Gramps in the bath container with him afterwards, and King would circle around Gramps and flare a couple of times. He'd never make a move on him, but would always watch him . The second I go near the tank he comes rushing forward and follows my every move. He checks out anything new, and he's even stolen food from the ghost shrimp in with him. Sometimes he'll sit and watch them, but never bothers them unless they have food. He's even "played" tug of war with them over bloodworms. I always do my baths in a specimen container, and used a permanent marker to mark the quart level on it so I don't have to measure the water out every time. Now that I have your advice on dosing the powdered meds, it is so much easier--I am NO GOOD at math and it used to drive me crazy trying to figure out the dose for a quart of water from that tiny scoop. I use the specimen container (I bought two of them YEARS ago before Drs Foster and Smith bought out Pet Warehouse) for drip acclimation, too. Here's a picture of one of them (before adding meds and hanging it inside the tank to regulate the temps during the bath): And this is one of the Net breeder (also in use): This really does make catching the fish for baths so much easier.
Maybe you could could get a "large" Rubbermaid or Sterilite container to use while you are treating B-blue so that you can use a filter/air pump, or some such, while doing in-tank treatments, and just keep him in a Net Breeder so you don't have to chase him down every time. I also have a brine shrimp net that I've had for ages, that is so much softer than my new one, and I use it for netting up my smaller fish. [Even my "new" larger net is "rougher" than my other nets.] Just to be on the safe side, I wouldn't use an "off brand" of plastic storage container, but they probably are safe to use in a pinch if you have a big enough one already handy. Just a thought .
Angelminx
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Post by Carl on Sept 14, 2014 10:48:20 GMT -5
I do not recommend 100% water changes except in cases of something toxic being accidentally added to the water (or similar circumstances). Keep in mind that most antibiotics degrade, so they simply become inactive in a short period of time after being added to water From the article, "Aquarium Cleaning" (Frequency Section) "Simply put from my experience AND controlled tests NO Aquarium or bowl should have a 100% water change even for high ammonia other than if poisons (such as roach spray) are accidentally added. "Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_cleaning.html#frequencyI think this is a good observation Most definitely this would be good to use, as Bio-Lif is/was an excellent product and this tea color causes absolutely no issues for the fish. As a side note (editorial), I was very disappointed when the manufacturer of Bio Lif discontinued sales in North America due to slow sales here. While the similar product Atkinson's Betta Spa is a good product, it was not even close to the quality of Bio Lif; but unfortunately it had better marketing and a willing public to not look past the anecdotal retailers that ignored Bio-Lif Carl
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2014 11:19:25 GMT -5
Excellent observation! Carl It was elementary, my dear Watson.
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cheri
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Post by cheri on Sept 15, 2014 19:39:44 GMT -5
Hi,
Yesterday I made a 50% water change in B-blues tank, as there was ammonia present per a test. Afterwards I dosed the tank with Kanamycin and Furan 2. So tomorrow, I'll do another 25-50% water change then add in a 2nd dose. With the presence of ammonia in the water; I don't understand why the ammonia alert in his tank is showing 'safe'. I know that it works because I recently checked it out by holding it up over a bottle of ammonia. It worked
I ordered some erythromycin today for Kim. She'll be getting baths with erythromycin, Kanamycin, MB and salt soon as the order arrives. I love ordering from AAP. The companies shipping is so quick! It arrives within 48hrs. of my order.
*I've been soaking Kams food in metronidazole for approximately 10 days now. Nothing, no changes He keeps growing in the gut , his finnage is all but gone and lately he's been surfacing frequently for air, and the air bubbles expel from the gills.
**New question. Would it be beneficial for the fish to be fed with food presoaked in neomycin? I've been reading articles on AAP and my head is racing and eyes are bleeding!
Carl, You answered my question about Bio-lif. Will it be good to start using it while B-blue is being medicated in-tank, or wait until the medicated treatments are done?
Angelmix, I agree...it is fun to watch these curious, courageous, and quite active little ninja fishies! It's like they lie in wait for me to walk into the room and they charge to the front of the tank and watch to see what I'm doing...all the while hoping I'm there to feed them because they usually start with the wiggle up and down 'feed me dance'. I play hide n seek with them but they seem to get bored and swim away because they I didn't have food for them. Your pictures of the holding boxes in your aquarium is a real good method for ease and lees stress in capturing the fish. Your aquarium looks quite big. The small tanks my bettas live in now are only about double the size of the breeders box. 12" x 7" x 9". Very sad...very sad.
I appreciate all the help, patience and support that you all share here. Thank you. Cheri
I was trying to attach short videos of each one but it said they were too big. Oh well...
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Post by angelminx on Sept 16, 2014 1:37:38 GMT -5
I'll try to remember what I just "posted", but somehow it got wiped out--and I know I'll be missing something.
It's just sooo hard to not give in to (ANY) of them when they beg--acting like they've never had a bite to eat in their lives!
The tank you see the specimen container and Breeder Net with is my 55G. Until recently, I never had a light for my 10G "quarantine tank", so I would hang the specimen container on the 55G for taking pix. The angel (as per the angel with aggressive fin rot thread) never had an in-tank treatment, so I kept her in the 55G (in the Net Breeder) when she wasn't "taking her baths".
I need to wait until I master photos before I even ATTEMPT videos (which I've never taken before).
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Post by Carl on Sept 16, 2014 9:58:41 GMT -5
This is because the ammonia alert only tests for toxic NH3, while other tests kits test for total ammonia From Aquarium Answers; Test Kits: "Another type of test kit is the SeaChem Multi Test Ammonia or the SeaChem Ammonia Alert which uses a gas exchange sensor system which is not affected by the presence of Prime, Amquel Plus, AmmoLock, etc., or other similar products. It also has the added advantage that it can detect the more dangerous free ammonia and distinguish it from "total ammonia", which is both the free and ionized forms of ammonia (NH4, the ionized form is not considered toxic). The SeaChem Ammonia Alert is an innovative color device which also uses a gas exchange sensor for continuously detecting and monitoring toxic free ammonia. A sensor changes reversibly from yellow to green to blue, relative to the ammonia concentration. No test kits, chemicals, or procedures are needed with this and it generally last up to a year. Product Link: SeaChem Ammonia Alert; free ammonia NH3 test
Ammonia is very toxic even at low levels, should be kept at or near 0. Ammonia test kits cannot discern between highly toxic ammonia (NH3) and only mostly non-toxic ammonium (NH4). Products such as Prime, Ammolock, and Amquel/ Amquel Plus will convert NH3 to NH4, so your toxic ammonia level will not test accurately after using one of these products. Of these products (and there are more as well) I recommend Prime and Amquel Plus as these two leave the NH4 and nitrites in an ionized form that is still bio available for nitrifying bacteria which is especially important if the tank is not fully “cycled” for whatever reason."Reference: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2007/02/aquarium-test-kits.htmlI am happy to read that AAP shipping is getting to you quickly for just Standard Shipping Yes, since obviously the Metronidazole is not working Please Read Aquarium Medication Use Part 1; Change Medications: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Medication.html#change_medI would also suggest reading this section: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Medication.html#conditionsThis will not affect medications and is safe to use together. The only negative is that I have noted lower dissolved oxygen levels when Bio Lif is present in some aquariums with poor circulation, so make sure maintain at least some circulation Carl
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cheri
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Post by cheri on Sept 17, 2014 16:15:04 GMT -5
Hi,
I was trying to 'quote' sayings from other posts to save some time... BTW, Devon your instructions were fine, helpful and thank you. I don't get how to do it.
Carl, I'll just withhold adding the Bio-lif, until I get an air stone or something better (like a seeded sponge) going on in their tanks.
The package with the Erythromycin came today. Yea! So, the baths for Kim will start today.
I would like you to please take a look at this picture taken today of B-blue. I'm not doing something right because he's not getting better, only worse. I keep quarter of a wonder shell in the tank and change out 50% of the water every 48 hrs. with a new dose of Furan2 & Kanamycin. The 50% w/c is because there is a showing of some ammonia in the water at each new dose. This is the end of his second round of Furan2. What is your opinion about doing a 3rd round? I'm not sure what to do. I don't want to not do anything if there's a chance for him to get better, but...I don't want to cause more harm to him by over medicating, either.
OOPS. I need to download the pictures. I'll post them in just a few, into a new post.
Thank you so much for everything. Cheri
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cheri
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Post by cheri on Sept 17, 2014 16:27:55 GMT -5
Hi, here's B-blue pics from today
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Sept 17, 2014 18:14:03 GMT -5
The in-tank treatment seems fine. I would most likely try another treatment, just because you are not seeing improvements. Is there salt in the tank? This would help.
Are you doing the baths like suggested. The 1 to 2 times a day. I made this suggestion before because you said you were doing baths, but they were not frequent to 1 or 2 times a day. Really, this is where you are going to see your most improvement, because it is a much stronger direct way of treatment. Also, you don't want to build a medication tolerance up for the fish, as this will only make it hard for recovery.
I say, make sure there's salt in the tank treatment and are doing the regular baths.
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Post by Carl on Sept 18, 2014 9:04:26 GMT -5
Yes, I would perform another treatment. Devon has a point as to salt in both the tank and baths as salt alone has been shown effective in aquaculture bacterial treatments via University studies. Consistency of baths is also VERY important. Finally, anything you can do to improve your bio filter to keep a stable ammonia will improve effectiveness of any treatment Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Medication.html#water_paramCarl
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cheri
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Post by cheri on Sept 18, 2014 11:12:05 GMT -5
Hi,
No, I haven't been adding salt to the in-tank treatments. B-blues' in-tank treatments consists of Furan 2 & Kanamycin, only. I'll add salt today with the final dose of this treatment. I stopped giving him daily baths as I said in a recent post. It was so very stressful trying to get him out of the tank, into the bath, and then to get him back into tank.
Kim went through her first bath yesterday, and all went quite well. Kim is getting a daily bath and no in-tank treatment. Kam was given a bath as I had extra medicine mix made up. He did well, also. No in-tank treatment, either.
I started yesterday presoaking their foods in neoplex.
The only thing in the 3 tanks as far as bio goes is some seeded Matrix. I don't even have air circulation. Maybe that's why the medications aren't working as they otherwise could, because of improper chemistry and bio.
In B-blues' tank are some live plants that he loves hanging about in. Adding salt into the tank is going to kill these plants, right? I don't want to remove them as he especially likes the java fern. So, with the salt killing the fern will that cause a toxic mix in his water? Does that question make any sense?
I know that something is definitely wrong here. In the past; the medicated treatments done has ever healed one betta. Medicating in-tank has always made the ammonia rise in the tanks. I start the medicine in a tank that has 0 ammonia, and the next day it can be as high as .25. I just don't understand this. I'm so frustrated.
I previously tried placing an already seeded sponge into one of the fishes tanks and what happened was not good. I don't know if it's too small a tank, 2.5 gallon; or if the newly placed sponge was trying to recycle, because the ammonia reading was 0 inside the tank. The sponge is a mini hydro.
Cheri
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Post by Carl on Sept 18, 2014 15:27:46 GMT -5
Salt is important. As for baths, I understand, but if done, these need to be consistent. As well these are an important part of the treatment regimen, improving chances of success. Make sure to ONLY use medication that has been prepped in liquid (water) within 24 hours, otherwise throw it away Healthy Bio filtration and circulation most definitely improves the chances of success of any treatment, as well as prevention of disease in the first place. This is why I emphasize it so much in many of my articles. Examples: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Medication.htmlwww.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.htmlJava Ferns are tough, I have never had any succumb to a normal salt treatment First .25 ppm ammonia is not a problem. The problem is this more an indicator of an unstable bio filter. Again, I cannot emphasize the importance of circulation and a good bio filter as well as mineral Cations (including ions of salt) I am not sure what would have happened that was not good, as I have used Sponge Filters in Betta bowls for years, including Hydro Sponge #1 in only 1 gallon container (a bigger filter in a smaller bowl than you are using) I can tell you as a matter of fact that the bowls with the filters had a much lower incidence of disease. In summary, I hope you take my points as not being critical of you, as I can tell you really love your pet fish, however it is also important to realize the limitations of a small container (even with bio filtration), as well as only utilizing parts of a treatment regimen. It is also important to note, that any treatment even under the best conditions are not always 100%, and that genetics, history, and age of the fish play a large role too in disease treatment and prevention. Carl
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cheri
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Post by cheri on Sept 19, 2014 12:18:32 GMT -5
Hi,
Carl, I never keep any medicine that is made up for baths or food. I throw it out the same day. Don't try to keep medicines past the same day or else it can become tainted and/or lose potency.
Thank you for saying that java ferns are tough plants to most likely withstand some in-tank salt. I'll leave it in as the java fern is B-blues favorite.
I totally agree 110%, that you and others are very capable to keep a small tank going with a sponge filter for good bio. As for myself, I used a mini hydro that was taken out of the 5 gallon fishless tank that's been fed ammonia only(for seeding purposes), and put it into the 2.5 gallon with the betta. (no ammonia present in 5 gallon tank at the time I removed the sponge). I think...if I could have placed the seeded sponge into the small tank without the betta, and use some ammonia and get it stablized, then do a 75% water change and add the betta fish last. I didn't have the extra heater, tank, and so on to make that happen though.
I need to do things with a KISS...keep-it-sweet-&-simple. I am definitely a show me, kind of person.
In no way did you EVER sound critical towards me with anything you or any other member has said. I think you're all quite professional and extremely patient with my ignorance and all else. I have been reading for approximately 4+ years on this site as a 'guest', trying to learn about fish husbandry. Over several years theere have been a half dozen or more other sites I browsed, but have forgotten most of them. IMO, this site is where everybody should learn about water chemistry, fish husbandry, and medications...etc. It would be helpful to everyone who wants a fish as a pet to learn from here and NOT from a large Pet Store like so many of us have and will. What they teach is nothing more than how to get customers back into the stores. They seem to not care and maybe don't know how to take care of fish. They definately don't teach novices the correct care that fish need.
It's sad that these 3 bettas probably aren't going to be healed because of me.
For 6 or 7 years now I have attempted to give a good home for bettas because I fell into the lie and believed that bettas are easy to keep fish. Clean water, good food, warm water...easy! Nothing is easy. I've already lost 5 and now these 3 that most likely aren't going to live a bettas life span...for sure not a quality in life. I cannot allow myself to buy anymore fish. That's one reason I feel frustrated, but, mostly I feel bad for the bettas. I do love them. I know that fishkeeping isn't for everyone, and unfortunately, that includes me. I'll admire and continue to be awed by fish, just not in my care.
Tomorrow will be the last day of medication for B-blue. Continues to get worse. Eats good, acts good... Kam & Kim have two more days of the Erythromycin, MB, salt, baths.
Again, Thank you all and I am very interested in all your help and opinions. It's very much appreciated!
Cheri
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