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Post by donward on Jan 13, 2009 20:48:02 GMT -5
Here we go again. Thought i fixed problem.Changed 1/2 water added sponge filter and still have cloudy water.I think its algee,for it apears green. All parameters ph ,nitrates amonia good.Can't figure it out.Been looking @posts on this site'and aparently can't find info i need.Maybe someone can walk me through this.Also put algee eater in tank.The way i clean tank ,empty decorations rocks plants,scrub walls siphon 25% water out take filter apart,remove bio mass charcoal and sponge rinse tap water put back. Put tap water back in tank @ 76degs with 12 drops tap water conditioner. Don't know what KH orGH is and haven't had water tested. Fish store thought cycle problem, gave me cycle add to water.
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Post by Carl on Jan 13, 2009 21:08:11 GMT -5
How long has this tank been running? Was this a gray cloud before? Keep in mind that sponge filter OR ANY filter will take at least 6 weeks to become an efficient bio filter. Make sure to only rise any filter media in de-chlorinated water as well What water conditioners are you using? It is important to note that after a water change it is not all that uncommon to have a slight cloud, especially after using a water conditioner since water conditioners are basically chemical reducers that will lower oxidation properties of the water. What other filters do you have? Could you provide your water parameter numbers including GH (the Calcium in GH is an important mineral, and even a GH test is an inaccurate test of this at best)? Sorry to throw a lot of questions back at you, but myself and others need some basic information to help you better Carl
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Post by Carl on Jan 13, 2009 21:25:38 GMT -5
Another thought after I re-read your question; Where is this aquarium placed, is it near a window, if so even diffused sun light (through a blind or curtain) can allow for easy growth of free floating algae. *Cutting back on feeding, using a more digestible food can help with both green and gray clouds. *Micron filtration using poly pads, Vortex Filters, or Aquarium Cleaning Machines can help (the later two are likely more than you want to spend/attempt at this time) *UV Sterilizers are almost a sure fire way to cure either gray or green, but again this may be something you would rather not attempt * Wonder Shells can help on occasion when the problem is mineral or possibly Redox related See this article for some basic in the green water section: Freshwater Aquarium Basics, careCarl
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Post by donward on Jan 13, 2009 21:44:10 GMT -5
Filter hang on back. Tank running .2yrs Water does appear gray green cloudy with floating debris. Never had problem till i replaced sponge charcoal bio mass with new. I'm useing API tap water conditioner . CYCLE beause store thought had cycle problem. When i clean empty decorations rocks plants,then scrub walls,siphon25% water, take filter apart sponge,charcoal bio mass,rinse reinstall. Refill tank with tap water @ 76degs with tap water conditioner.
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Post by Carl on Jan 13, 2009 21:53:56 GMT -5
Your basic description implies that you may have lost your bio filtration, especially if your HOB has no way of saving bio filtration (such as a bio grid, sponge, etc.)
This may simply take time and water changes, as well as less feedings, maybe with a different food too.
Consider the poly pad in front of your regular filter media in your HOB as well. The Wonder Shells may also help
If you can find out your GH at a later time this may be helpful, but this does not appear the problem (however all aspects need to be examined)
Do not scrub decorations with anything other than a tool used for the aquarium, even the slightest amount of soap residue can cause cloudy water too.
What about the location of the tank?
Carl
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Post by donward on Jan 13, 2009 22:06:06 GMT -5
I,m using aquarium scruber for tank walls. Tank is next to slider glass doors but curtains block direct sunlight. Feeding brine shrimp every other day. Beening feeding teteramin saw artical will get spirulina 20.Have polys and algee eater in 20 gal tank aprox 18 fish.
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Post by donward on Jan 13, 2009 22:07:57 GMT -5
CAn i change charcoal over to cotton in filter
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Post by Carl on Jan 13, 2009 22:10:29 GMT -5
Try deflecting ANY possible light with cardboard, foil or whatever else you have on hand
This may simply take time, based on loss of some bio filtration until your nitrifying bacteria establishes itself.
What model HOB do you have?
Carl
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Post by donward on Jan 13, 2009 22:18:07 GMT -5
AquaClear filter
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Post by jonv on Jan 13, 2009 22:20:50 GMT -5
If I may add something here? Do you have any readings on your phosphates and CO2 levels?
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Post by Carl on Jan 13, 2009 22:22:59 GMT -5
The Aqua Clear is generally a good filter for bio filtration, and more difficult to harm your bio filter unless all media is changed at once.
The negative is particulate/mechanical filtration, but adding a poly pad in front of the foam block should help.
Carl
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Post by Carl on Jan 13, 2009 22:26:32 GMT -5
If I may add something here? Do you have any readings on your phosphates and CO2 levels? Good point in particular with phosphates, I have not seen CO2 be a problem and I even add CO2 to my planted tanks. Somtimes lack of O2 can be a problem, if you can get this tested along with your GH, that may be helpful as well. Your O2 should be over 5 ppm Not to sound like a broken record, but the Wonder Shell may help for this too, here is a paste from "wonder Shells" • Each shell oxygenates, aerates and neutralizes harmful acids resulting from normal bio processes; Carl
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Post by Carl on Jan 13, 2009 22:27:59 GMT -5
CAn i change charcoal over to cotton in filter Due to your tank problems, I would leave some carbon in there for now and just add poly pads in front of the sponge blocks instead Carl
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Post by jonv on Jan 13, 2009 22:30:38 GMT -5
Myself in general, though I know you have more extensive materials in your research Carl, what I generally look at first with any algae issues are:
1. Nitrate levels 2. Phosphate levels 3. CO2 levels if you can test for it 4. Lighting amounts
Again, not to take a single thing away from your points, I usually start with that part first, and then progess into the area's you just brought up on the GH and filtration. My logic on this, the four things listed are the major fuel components of Algae, and you starve those off, it should be pretty difficult for it to thrive.
Of course, looking at this again, I may be proceeding from a false assumption on the CO2 needs. I have a feeling you'll mention that thinking of algae from a plant prespective and the use of CO2 is probably not a good choice or logic?
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Post by donward on Jan 13, 2009 22:31:22 GMT -5
When i disasemble the HOB and rinse bio mass charcoal sponge with tap water to get excess built up algee on it i then dip them in the water i took from tank to replace .
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Post by jonv on Jan 13, 2009 22:36:21 GMT -5
Anyone please correct me if I am not on the right track here, but I am guessing that if you see algae accumulation in the activated carbon, which is contained inside the aquaclear and would be obstructed from light, the real issues are taking place inside the tank footprint itself. Basically, algae is growing strong enough and running out of room in the actual tank itself and taking up residence in your filter.
At this point, just my input here, I think you need to consider going dark on your aquarium for at least a few days. I mean, totally block the light out of there, even if you need to wrap the outside of the aquarium. If this were me, that is what I'd be considering at this point. Algae is not my strong area however, and if you see input that you feel more comfortable with, by all means follow that. I just feel that attacking the light is likely to be your biggest weapon, but please do listen to all input given here. I don't think you need to act by tonight, I think you still have some time before any dangers to your stock come into play.
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Post by donward on Jan 13, 2009 22:36:56 GMT -5
PH 7.0 Nitrate 5.0 or less Ammonia 0
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Post by donward on Jan 13, 2009 22:45:31 GMT -5
When you say media refering to filter that refers to sponge charcoal and bio mass,is that correct. And should i not be taking it out and rinsing it when cleaning tank
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Post by Carl on Jan 13, 2009 22:59:01 GMT -5
Jon, you bring up many valid points, as to CO2, algae is a very simple "plant" (for lack of a more scientific description), and in planted aquariums the aquarists bring up CO2 for the plants which do not compete with algae well in many common aquarium environments. In fact it is common among aquarium plant enthusiasts to recommend to raise the CO2 to improve plant growth and lower algae growth. See my planted aquarium article for more As well free floating algae is generally from different causes than common algae found on decor, with lighting, excess nutrients (generally phosphates and nitrates), being major causes. Lighting is a little more complex an issue as often the type of lighting can allow for more algae growth, but I can really get off subject here and would rather say that using a 5500 to 8500 aquarium light is best and no incandescents. These are excellent points that really do not need much input from me I will point out that green water is a common plague in ponds, and as I noted earlier, removing nutrients, good aerobic AND anaerobic filtration along with UV Sterilization and a good mineral balance works wonders Donward, rinsing media (charcoal, sponges) in DE-CHLORINATED water is a good idea, but not all at the same time Carl
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Post by Carl on Jan 14, 2009 1:08:57 GMT -5
One more thought or better; "trick" for grreen water (algae blooms) is to use a magnet in the filter (away from the impeller).
This little trick has worked for me in both aquariums and ponds (multiple magnets in ponds), often this works best in conjunction with other methods, such as those we already pointed out in this thread.
Before anyone reading this wonders if this is some sort of strange magic, the magnet works by attracting the iron out of the water, the algae must have this iron for photosythesis.
I do not recommend this in planted aquariums, but it works well in fish only aquariums (it does not harm snails that I know off either)
Carl
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