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Post by cptcaveman on Jul 26, 2017 20:02:26 GMT -5
I'm starting a 28-29g SW tank and wanting to add 30-40lbs live rock, 1 peppermint shrimp, 1 starfish, and two clown fish.
So my questions are, which ones are compatible?
Is T8 lighting ok?
and what setup/media should I use for a 704B 525GPH canister filter?
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jul 27, 2017 11:42:17 GMT -5
Im not an expert in whats compatible... I know some species are and some are not. I would consider a sand reactor with Oolitic sand and NPX BioPlastics to keep Nitrates/Phos low. It would hook right after the 704. americanaquariumproducts.com/FluidizedSandFilter.htmlI'd think T8 is fine, unless you want to get into fancy SPS. Then you would most likely want to consider LED.
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Post by Carl on Jul 27, 2017 14:19:14 GMT -5
I'm starting a 28-29g SW tank and wanting to add 30-40lbs live rock, 1 peppermint shrimp, 1 starfish, and two clown fish. So my questions are, which ones are compatible? Peppermint shrimp are compatible with Clownfish and most starfish but for maybe African Starfish Carl
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Post by Carl on Jul 27, 2017 14:19:49 GMT -5
I'm starting a 28-29g SW tank and wanting to add 30-40lbs live rock, 1 peppermint shrimp, 1 starfish, and two clown fish. So my questions are, which ones are compatible? Peppermint shrimp are compatible with Clownfish and most starfish but for maybe African Starfish Carl
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Post by cptcaveman on Jul 31, 2017 20:12:35 GMT -5
Can I turn my canister into a giant reactor?
I just noticed I put this in FW, sorry.
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Post by Carl on Aug 1, 2017 9:29:08 GMT -5
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Post by cptcaveman on Aug 5, 2017 16:11:20 GMT -5
So I got my dry live rock from natures ocean and two of the pieces have pink/tan/redish dried sand(?) In the pores. What is the best method to clear it out? Acid? Soak in tap water?
Also can I just add purigen to my canister and run it with matrix and filter pads?
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Post by Carl on Aug 6, 2017 10:03:56 GMT -5
So I got my dry live rock from natures ocean and two of the pieces have pink/tan/redish dried sand(?) In the pores. What is the best method to clear it out? Acid? Soak in tap water? I am not completely clear of your question here. If the sand is dusty, yes I generally lightly rinse in tap water until it kis no longer "milky" (but it does not need to be completely clear as you can rinse away mineral enhancing dust too) Yes, the Matrix near the beginning of the water flow and the Purigen near the end of the flow through the canister filter Carl
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Post by cptcaveman on Aug 6, 2017 14:27:52 GMT -5
The white is the rock and the tanish stuff is what I'm trying to get rid of. Some of it can be removed after soaking for a few hours, but it would take forever to get it all and some of it is still hard and would need a pick to get out. Would muriatic acid work? Attachments:
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Post by Carl on Aug 7, 2017 9:35:14 GMT -5
Assuming there are no chemicals in the rock, just a rinsing is all that should be done.
I have used similar rock and after about 3-4 months in a well established reef aquarium they "came alive" with life
Carl
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Post by cptcaveman on Aug 7, 2017 12:27:15 GMT -5
I'm wanting it to be as porous as possible and remove the tan stuff. It seems like it's taking up most of the space
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Post by Carl on Aug 8, 2017 12:49:58 GMT -5
I'm wanting it to be as porous as possible and remove the tan stuff. It seems like it's taking up most of the space That is a good point, but have you looked with a magnifying glass to see if it truly is non porous? You might be surprised. Even if not, you might break of some with a hammer and chisel Carl
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Post by cptcaveman on Sept 19, 2017 2:54:33 GMT -5
So I think I'm going to go with a skunk cleaner shrimp to start.
My cycle has started and is currently at 1-ish. I just used some of my JD food I had left over they didn't like.
as far as my rock goes, I've noticed that he longer it sits in the tank the softer the red-ish stuff gets and can be scrapped off. It is more porous than it looks but less than what I was thinking. All in all I think It'll look good when "live".
How long should it take to turn purple/color, and is there anything I can add to help/give it more variety in color besides just purple.
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Sept 19, 2017 11:26:30 GMT -5
The color rock I've seen is mature rock, where it's been in a tank a year, plus? It needs time in a healthy tank to grow.
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Post by cptcaveman on Sept 28, 2017 19:36:49 GMT -5
So my ammonia is staying at 1ppm and my nitrites and nitrates are 0 with a 7-7.5ish pH. I've added 3 cap fulls of stability over the last 3 weeks just hoping it helps stabilize.
My question is, what's wrong? Lol
The ammonia has stayed the same over the last two weeks.
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Post by Carl on Sept 29, 2017 9:18:02 GMT -5
Did you add any "seeded" live rock or did you add some rock with dead organic matter within?
These are two problems I have encountered with clients having cycling issues.
Carl
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Sept 29, 2017 10:59:11 GMT -5
So my ammonia is staying at 1ppm and my nitrites and nitrates are 0 with a 7-7.5ish pH. I've added 3 cap fulls of stability over the last 3 weeks just hoping it helps stabilize. My question is, what's wrong? Lol The ammonia has stayed the same over the last two weeks. The directions of stability is a capful for every 10 gals daily, for 7 days... Your dosing is one day dose in 3 weeks...
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Post by cptcaveman on Sept 29, 2017 21:18:48 GMT -5
Did you add any "seeded" live rock or did you add some rock with dead organic matter within? These are two problems I have encountered with clients having cycling issues.[ br] Carl No I was wanting to wait for it to stabilize before adding life rock or coralline algae. If that orange/tan stuff is organic matter then yes.I added bunch of food at first but haven't added any in 2 weeks. I use instant ocean mix, could that do anything? Kh is 120 and GH is 180 if not more.
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Post by cptcaveman on Sept 29, 2017 21:20:55 GMT -5
So my ammonia is staying at 1ppm and my nitrites and nitrates are 0 with a 7-7.5ish pH. I've added 3 cap fulls of stability over the last 3 weeks just hoping it helps stabilize. My question is, what's wrong? Lol The ammonia has stayed the same over the last two weeks. The directions of stability is a capful for every 10 gals daily, for 7 days... Your dosing is one day dose in 3 weeks... The idea I had was for it to just help start it not really take it over/be the main thing. Might have been a waste.
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Post by Carl on Sept 30, 2017 10:47:04 GMT -5
I missed the Stability dosing (thanks Devon). As a nitrogen cycle kick starter, Stability needs to be used at this higher does to be effective.
As to Live Rock, this was the primary method I seeded new a marine aquariums for my clients over the years. The key though is truly LIVE rock. The way live rock is shipped, it s NOT the same as fish as it is generally shipped by "ship", not plane.
What needs to be done once a retailer gets it in is to place it ina well established aquarium or sump for at least 6 weeks, then moved out for sale after this. My business still noted which were the newer pieces so that the oldest most mature/seeded live rocks would be used. By following this use of Live Rock they were great at seeding a marine aquarium without ANY ammonia spikes.
Unfortunately not all retailers follow such procedures and such live rock can actually do mare harm than good to a new marine aquarium
Carl
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