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Post by pufferpunk on Jan 14, 2016 8:52:39 GMT -5
I added a 2nd 24" airstone & they all look much better today.
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Post by Carl on Jan 14, 2016 10:49:10 GMT -5
I've got the 1st dose of all the meds Carl advised today in my 3 tanks. All the fish in my largest tank are looking stressed & breathing VERY heavily. I'm really worried about them! The fish in the other 2 tanks look fine. I would stick to this for now. Are there any differences in water parameters between this stressed aquarium and the other two? Carl
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Post by pufferpunk on Jan 14, 2016 11:35:13 GMT -5
No difference, except I bought new airstones (need them, because of lack of flow using canisters) & only installed 1 of them to this larger tank. The hose was so stiff I couldn't attach the 2nd airstone & kind of forgot about it. This may have had nothing to do with the meds, because they look fine this morning & that was after having both airstones running all night.
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Post by Carl on Jan 14, 2016 13:32:48 GMT -5
No difference, except I bought new airstones (need them, because of lack of flow using canisters) & only installed 1 of them to this larger tank. The hose was so stiff I couldn't attach the 2nd airstone & kind of forgot about it. This may have had nothing to do with the meds, because they look fine this morning & that was after having both airstones running all night. To be clear, the tanks with less/no stress have additional air stones while the tank that had stress did not? Here is a quote from the Initial Steps to Take section of the Aquarium Medications article (Step 1), note the last bullet. "Know and Correct your Water Parameters! WITHOUT maintaining these parameters, your treatment is unlikely to succeed:
*A stable pH
*An established and maintained KH (usually 80 ppm or higher depending upon fish kept)
*0 (or near 0) ammonia and nitrites
*50 ppm nitrate or less
*Positive mineral ions (Cal/Mag) in CONSTANT supply, which can only be present if some level of GH is maintained (although a GH reading does not guarantee positive mineral ions/electrolytes)
*Similar to above; a Balance Redox which includes adequate Redox oxidation (including dissolved oxygen) but also Redox reduction provided by mineral Cations and possibly level one or higher UV Sterilization
*As well a healthy bio filter is a must to provide a stable environment (such as an AAP Hydro Sponge Filter)
*Similar to above; Good Circulation including adequate dissolved oxygen. Even adding an air stone can make a large difference in effectiveness of the treatment."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Medication.htmlCarl
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Post by pufferpunk on Jan 14, 2016 23:30:32 GMT -5
I have 24" airstones in both thanks. The larger tank (180g) used to have 2 x 24" airstones. I bought new ones & when I went to replace the 2nd one I couldn't get it hooked up, because the tubing had gotten stiff. I had to buy new tubing. That tank is fine now.
The 120g was looking cloudy today & when I tested ammonia it was between 0-0.25 (nitrite 0), so I double dosed Prime to that tank.
Tomorrow is dose 2 of the meds.
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Post by Carl on Jan 15, 2016 12:55:13 GMT -5
I have 24" airstones in both thanks. The larger tank (180g) used to have 2 x 24" airstones. I bought new ones & when I went to replace the 2nd one I couldn't get it hooked up, because the tubing had gotten stiff. I had to buy new tubing. That tank is fine now. The 120g was looking cloudy today & when I tested ammonia it was between 0-0.25 (nitrite 0), so I double dosed Prime to that tank. Tomorrow is dose 2 of the meds. Seems to me you have good circulation. Even the ammonia level of .25 is not at all bad. A single does of AAP Prime is all that really would have been needed for this number, but double is OK too Carl
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Post by pufferpunk on Jan 15, 2016 15:09:14 GMT -5
Thanks, the fish seem fine but I was worried about the cloudiness.
At what point do I bleach the Python hose? It says on the directions, to do a 25% WC, before the 3rd treatment.
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Post by Carl on Jan 16, 2016 11:04:45 GMT -5
Thanks, the fish seem fine but I was worried about the cloudiness. At what point do I bleach the Python hose? It says on the directions, to do a 25% WC, before the 3rd treatment. You can bleach, rinse, than soak (in water with double Prime), then rinse again after each cleaning if you want to make 100% sure. But generally as long as equipment is not shared, once after treatment is finished. Carl
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Post by pufferpunk on Jan 16, 2016 18:40:24 GMT -5
I only have 1 Python with a 100' hose for all my tanks.
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Post by Carl on Jan 17, 2016 11:52:11 GMT -5
I only have 1 Python with a 100' hose for all my tanks. If all tanks have this issue in some sort or another (which is my understanding), then I would not be too overly concerned with cross contamination. With my aquarium maintenance company, I often rotated my freshwater stops with saltwater so that the equipment would get an instant FW/SW sterilization before the next client stop on my route without me needing to otherwise soak and sterilize equipment too often. Carl
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Post by pufferpunk on Jan 17, 2016 16:06:02 GMT -5
All tanks are being medicated the same right now, so they all should be healthy, right?
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Post by Carl on Jan 17, 2016 20:15:05 GMT -5
All tanks are being medicated the same right now, so they all should be healthy, right? Yes. Also consider a good UV Sterilizer when this is over. Carl
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Post by pufferpunk on Jan 25, 2016 11:07:36 GMT -5
Now, 2 of my redheads have HITH. In my 40 years of fishkeeping, I've never had so many problems!
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Post by Carl on Jan 25, 2016 12:15:21 GMT -5
Now, 2 of my redheads have HITH. In my 40 years of fishkeeping, I've never had so many problems! Sorry! HITH is a mostly preventable disorder, but sometimes once it gets started, it takes a while to heal and sometimes scarring never completely head. Other issues can aggravate the problem too, hence the old saying: "when it rains, it pours" Aquarium Answers Resource: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2008/02/hole-in-head.htmlCarl
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Post by pufferpunk on Jan 25, 2016 13:10:37 GMT -5
I am surprised they are afflicted with this, since I've added the Medicated Wonder Shells?
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Post by Carl on Jan 25, 2016 13:17:01 GMT -5
This is something that takes a while to come on, it is not an overnight malady such as Ich.
Diet also plays a role too, so does the fish' immune system (which diet, water parameters, Redox, all factor into this too)
If any live or frozen foods are used, they should be fed/soaked in a Spirulina slurry as per the article.
I believe you already use vitamins, but make sure these are used to just soak foods in, not added to the water directly
Carl
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Post by pufferpunk on Jan 25, 2016 20:51:08 GMT -5
LOL, I know fish don't drink water, as much as I try to tell folks at my forum who insist they do! I wouldn't waste my $$$ dosing the tank with vitamins.
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Post by cjdesmit on Jan 25, 2016 22:23:38 GMT -5
Just wanted to stop in and say I have found all of the conversation and articles linked in this thread extremely helpful. Unfortunately I have no advice to offer, however I wish the OP best of luck in eradicating the root to his problems!
Chris
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jan 26, 2016 9:48:18 GMT -5
Good reference from Carl. This is a longer term one, where in the article talks about one of the biggest prevention is a consent supply of electrolyte salts (wonder shell). Like Carl said, it's something that take a while. Best of luck with your treatment
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Post by Carl on Jan 26, 2016 10:39:58 GMT -5
LOL, I know fish don't drink water, as much as I try to tell folks at my forum who insist they do! I wouldn't waste my $$$ dosing the tank with vitamins. Sorry if I might have confused you with someone else here. Glad to read you know this, as you noted so many persons do not This article deals with this, maybe you could share it (if you have not already): www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2006/12/how-do-fish-drink.htmlCarl
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