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Post by Carl on Jan 28, 2016 13:51:53 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Mar 4, 2016 18:24:02 GMT -5
I have already updated this new article. Here is a quote from the article (dealing with home water softeners): "Here is how a home or office water softener works: When the resin becomes saturated with calcium and magnesium, it is regenerated by passing an NaCl or KCl brine solution through the resin. The high concentration of sodium ions in the brine causes the reaction to be reversed with sodium (or potassium if KCl is used) replacing the calcium and magnesium ions which are then discharged into the waste water.
This sodium or potassium that is used to drive out mineral Cations of calcium and magnesium remain in the water, even if in small amounts. These sodium ions are enough to continue to drive out a considerable amount of essential mineral Cations so that simply adding these back via SeaChem/AAP Replenish, AAP Wonder Shells, etc. results in precipitation of these essential electrolytes. Simple tests with an AAP Wonder Shell bear this out as the Wonder shells dissolves in a pile of dust, but never actually changes the water chemistry!
Here is the equation/formula:"Reference: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2016/01/use-of-ro-di-softwater-in-aquariums.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Mar 11, 2016 17:15:21 GMT -5
I have updated this article once more for more clarity in part as a response to a rude FB Planted Aquarium Groups that behaves like they are still in Middle School and more importantly cannot even apply basic logic. Quote: For those thinking they may have gotten a good deal on a RO system that claims to use a quality TFC membrane, I will remind readers of basic economics and that is while many sellers will price a system low to get a customer and then make the money on parts (think about the cost of HP printers, then the cost of replacement ink), if the replacement parts are at or near the cost of a top quality TFC membrane, then you do NOT have a unit/system utilizing these membranes. I have used many different RO units and the the results (before passing through a DI chamber) in higher waste water, higher TDS and other measurable aspects such as GH are notable. Below is a screen-shot from the manufacture/distributor order web site of the cost a retailer will pay for these items Pentair membranes. If the replacement retail price is at or near these prices, then unless it is a clearance item, it is not a high quality TFC membrane (simple economics 101):
I, along with the person who purchased my aquarium maintenance, research, and design company have used the Coralife RO and RO/DI systems. While they claim to use the TFC, our results were not the same as with other units that cost considerably more for the membrane, which again brings up the argument that I can purchase wholesale a 100 GPD Coralife membrane for $25 (or less) but the better Pentair USA medical grade membrane used by several high end RO and RO/DI systems have a wholesale cost of $50.
Keep in mind too that FilmTec is a Dow Trademark and does NOT mean this is a TFC Membrane or if it is, the best TFC since price determines quality here. The Filmtec can be either the TFC or CTA. The Dow Economy FILMTEC FT30 Membranes are TFC, however many models are not, so make sure to do your homework and apply common sense logic as per economics whether it is the CTA, TFA or a better medical grade TFC such as the Pentair USA TFC Membrane.
Also be aware that CTA membranes lower permeability requires higher pressures so booster pumps may be needed for optimum efficiency. This is especially true if you use a RO system that uses twin membranes as a way to increase output while keeping the purchase cost lower than would be the case with a higher GPD membrane. Even with a TFC membrane (regardless of membrane quality), I do not advise twin membrane systems as this increases the pressure needed to run the system, often complicating the system or lowering efficiency if a booster pump is not added.Reference: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2016/01/use-of-ro-di-softwater-in-aquariums.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Apr 2, 2016 10:20:12 GMT -5
I have further updated this article from Aquarium/Pond Answers I added a new section with basic information about what each function of component of an RO/DI system. Here is a quote from this section: The main purpose of the membrane is removal of mineral salts, which at the proper water pressure and temperature an optimum membrane is VERY efficient at doing. This same membrane can also remove most nitrates and ammonia. In fact my own tests over the years showed 100% removal of nitrates. However some claim nitrates can get through, but this again falls back partly to the membrane used, as my results varied with systems such as the Coralife RO system using the FilmTec membrane which is also used in many popular RO/DI systems, did in fact leave some residual nitrates while the TMC V2 system had 0 nitrates.This picture showing how a RO membrane works was also added: Reference: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2016/01/use-of-ro-di-softwater-in-aquariums.html#removalCarl
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Post by Carl on May 10, 2016 9:08:18 GMT -5
I have further updated the RO/DI, Softwater use article from Aquarium/Pond Answers Here is a quote from the section about what each component is used for: "Sediment/Micron Pre-Filter; The main purpose of this chamber/component of a RO/DI system is to remove sediments such as rust from the water. From my experience, these sediment filters generally range from 1 to 20 micron in pore size. These should be changed frequently to maintain pressure for the rest of the unit as well as extend the life of the membrane. How often you need to change it can vary greatly. What my experience has shown me that changing of the micron cartridge has little bearing on the life of the resin in a the DI chamber (if a DI chamber is even used)."Reference: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2016/01/use-of-ro-di-softwater-in-aquariums.htmlCarl
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