Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2014 13:59:32 GMT -5
Trying desperately to save a special little betta! Started last month with treating a small 'plaque' that appeared on the base of his pectoral fin and stayed without initially growing. Started slow with Melafix/Pimax but no change. Now several changes in symptoms, have tried stronger meds.. just spent the long weekend (Canada) immersed in American Aquarium articles, trying all I can to save him.. symptoms persist... he's hanging in but I really need to know if I'm on the right track or what to do. I'm not a total rookie but lots to learn. Here's a summary, all assistance hugely appreciated!!! Tank: 5.5G filtered, gravel. 25% WC's weekly, treating with PRIME. Ammo: 0; Nitrites 0; Nitrates 10; GH 180; KH 120; PH first taken before Kanaplex @ 8.0/ later on taken @ 7.6 [had added lge driftwood] (tap water 7.4) 1) 1/16" light greyish 'plaque' at base of right pectoral fin (defined, not cottony), some whiter spore-like spots developed on it (not ich-like) ~PIC 1~- 15 days MELAFIX + PIMAFIX... no change - added AQ SALT @ 3 tsp/5.5G (5 + gravel etc) throughout following time- sometimes reduced to half RESULT: more just grey with white subsided, but white returned after filtering out meds. Whole thing lifted and fell off at one point but returned. Can also see from behind on back of fin base. TOOK A WEEK OR SO OFF TO WAIT/SEE.. 2) Pectoral 'plaque' same but seeing some soft slightly dark and cottony 'depressions' on head - Treated with KANAPLEX (in-tank) 3 doses x 48 hours each. - abdomen looked enlarged, fasted a couple times day and fed peas; saw poop twice then did not observe on 2 tries RESULT: Pectoral plaque less white during treatment, white returned after; abdomen still looking enlarged, scales whitish at fullest area Otherwise behaviour normal. 2 WEEKS OFF TO OBSERVE... abdomen still enlarged/full looking, reduced salt... pectoral plaque same 3) White translucent matter appeared on tip of lower fin, @ 1/8" ~PIC 2~- added MELAFIX- few hours later he flicked it off leaving fin tip clean but ragged 4) 2 days later, very languid + abdomen still large - Treated with EPSOM SALTS BATH (1.5 tsp/1 gallon for 8 min) - ** in QT tank, saw misty grey/white 'fungus' all inside left gill (opposite side from 'plaque') - Treated with FUNGUS GUARD in QT tank RESULT: 'fungus' flew off on contact with meds 5) 8 hours later switched to FURAN 2 + KANAPLEX (in own tank) .. per columnaris treatment articles (most conditions seemed to match, also Nitrofurazone but + Kanamycin) - completed 2 doses (2 days) RESULT: Scales with 'white appearance' spread to full abdomen underside, then a line along side of body (less white but showing) ~PIC 3~ Behaviour weaker now -repeated EPSOM SALTS BATH, reduced size but would return 5) Felt it wasn't improving, so instead of doing the recommended 3 doses before switching (considering he had had a prior Kanaplex treatment + 8 hours with Fungus Guard which is also Nitrofurazone) - EPSOM SALTS BATH
- Switched to FUNGUS CURE in QT tank (in case its actually Saprolegnia per 'fungus' seen in left gill)) RESULT: Now 1 day into FUNGUS CURE treatment. In QT tank 3" depth. Pectoral plaque may be subdued but still there with white spots in ; abdomen still white but possibly bit less but area close to gills very white and inside gills is white (difficult to asses these things in green water + reflection of bottom glass); abdomen size normal now; oh, no pine-coning!; Behaviour: FAILING...on ground but upright, gills move but slowly, will swim if disturbed and comes up for air, ate a few spirulina soaked pellets yesterday, not really today... So that's where we're at. I really hope not to lose this little guy, but also want to learn all I can. This 'plaque' on the base of his fin (between fin and gill) is not something I've been able to match in all my reading, and it persists even through these treatments. Very baffling! If it's parasitic, also can't find a match for it. I simply can't keep hitting him with different drugs. If anything he seems somehow better (not that he's good) than when on the Furan 2+ Kanaplex, and after that during filtering out the meds ( he just crashed and hid).. but I don't know if I should persist, or.. what to do? .... So while he's still hanging in, please if you have a handle on what we're dealing with and can help with some info/advice, I would be sooooo grateful..... thanks! ( I have numerous other pics if desired)
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Aug 5, 2014 15:32:26 GMT -5
Welcome to EA, although sorry for the circumstances that bring your here. How old is your Betta? I ask because often age is a factor, and often many Bettas sold as adults were actually breeders at the time of sale and are already very old fish past their prime. This can make treatment very difficult. Your first picture appears to be fungus (Saprolegnia), however the slime that is rolling off your Betta I am 99% positive is bacterial in nature (likely Columnaris, as this slime is a relatively common with this disease) Your progression of treatment is generally good However, one aspect of treatment I did not see was a medicated fish bath with more than just Epsom slats. I would recommend a Fish Bath with Methylene Blue, sodium chloride salt as well as Epsom salts. Since you have already treated with Furan 2 and Kanamycin with poor results, although immunity may have been added due to the fact that if Columnaris, Kanamycin by itself is often not effective, it needs to be combined with Furan 2 (Nitrofurazon) and now the disease may not respond. I would consider another treatment regimen in the fish bath, such as the Fungus Cure at double dose. A swab directly on the affected area is also sometimes very helpful. Methylene Blue can be used here as well, but it is not as strong a swab treatment as Hydrogen Peroxide or even more so Potassium Permanganate Reference: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2009/07/fish-baths.htmlMake sure your temperature is under 75F, and add 1 teaspoon of salt per 1 gallon of water since Columnaris has been shown to respond to salt treatments. In tank, you might consider adding 2-3 small Medicated Wonder Shells. These will help with mineral Cations, which can make a difference in a fish suffering from poor osmoregulation Product Resources: *Methylene Blue www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Quickcure.html#methylene*Medicated Wonder Shells www.americanaquariumproducts.com/MedicatedWonderShell.html*Potassium Permanganate www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Waterconditioner.html#permanganateCarl
|
|
|
Post by devonjohnsgard on Aug 5, 2014 17:33:35 GMT -5
Welcome! Sorry for the tough situation. Looks like Carl gave you some good direction so, I'll you follow what he gave you. Just a couple thoughts, was adding the driftwood a fairly new addition? Was it cleaned before it when in? What type of filtration does the tank have? Having something like a sponge filter or Matrix will help by having a large source of beneficial bacteria to eliminate harmful waste that causes these infections. Just thinking about this issue from the aspect of preventing the issue to happen again. Welcome to the group
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2014 18:22:48 GMT -5
Thank you so very much, Carl! First time I've needed help though I've been a big fan of the site and the forum for some time... my bible! So, dealing with Columnaris AND Saprolegnia Ugh. Yet I'm fastidious with maintenance and (I think) have a fair grasp of the basics... sigh... Details re: mineralization are new to me.. am reading, rereading, rereading your articles... Interesting re: the pectoral 'plaque' being Saprolegnia as I've seen nothing that shows it being solid like that, just the misty, hairy gray effect. Well, that's why I called! Pleased I've been on target generally. I've had 'Xochi' for 9 months. I got him at a respected specialty aquarium store here in Toronto, they bring bettas in from a Thai farm. Not the smallest/youngest I've bought, he had some length to his fins but not 'flowing' yet, and overall a very smooth, clean looking.. has grown in size, fins since. My profile pic is him 1 month after getting him. I've been told they can be older but not appear so due to tiny quarters stunting their growth until we get them, so if that's the case.. who knows.. As per your advice, his water temp is now 73.5-74º and he has 1 tsp. SALT (Note: Treating him in a QT tank with 1 gallon water/fungus cure) I want to follow your advice re: baths, and sorry but need a bit more help with that. First off, I meant to mention... I can't get methylene blue or potassium permanganate here in Canada... both banned. My LFS does not believe they can even bring them in. I can certainly do the dble. dose fungus cure, or using salt + epsom salts... or whatever you most recommend... but I do need to know the recipe and target time to keep him in etc. I will read your info on swabs, would have to be the hydrogen peroxide, but now this is out of my realm of experience.. yikes... I read about the Wonder shells and want to order for future... but to be clear, by 'in-tank', did you mean to add to his treatment tank? If so, I wonder if there's a comparable product here... Sorry to have to fire back more questions, but I'm so very grateful.. and good news, he's still with us Thanks again
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2014 19:36:28 GMT -5
Thank you devonjohnsgard! The same things I'm thinking about tonight.. considering the news I'd really appreciate any thoughts, advice you might have for me... The driftwood I only added 3 days ago (july 31), so it couldn't be the source of these woes. Rechecking my notes now I see the PH was 8.0 at that point (in error said 7.6 in orig. post). That being the reason I added it. (another area I'm trying to understand better, for example does it raise a concern of stability that my tap water is 7.4 but 8.0 in the tank.. with WC's every 7 days) Using an API liquid test kit, have been experimenting with tap water aged a day etc... The driftwood was not new, I had and used in the past. It's been in (dry) storage for months and I rehydrated it using conditioned fresh water. The 5.5G tank has a smallish hang-on filter (Hagen AquaClear- may be Canadian only), holding a pce of foam 1" x 2" x 3" + a black sponge filter foam ( 2" X 4" tall cylinder), a bag of Bio Max media, and currently charcoal. In addition, there are 2 more pieces of foam added IN THE TANK, as part of a little method I devised for allowing filter water to stream into the tank but without creating much water movement, which bettas of course HATE. This was after I tried switching to a sponge filter, only to have him after 2 days chew half his tail off! Vibration/noise of air pump, though I worked my heart out to mask all that. Wish I could post a pic here, as it would better show it, but basically a rectangular piece of foam is fitted to sit in the water at water level and right below where the water streams into the tank. A plexiglass lid I made has @ 1.5" walls that surround that, forcing the water to go down vertically through the sponge into the tank, slowing and dispersing the flow so it doesn't bother His Highness. He can swim directly under and not flinch Additionally I have a cylinder of foam (from a small paint roller) over the downspout of the filter to keep fins from getting caught etc. I figure these extra sponges add to the bio filter. They get rinsed out when I do a WC, meanwhile the ones in the filter get rinsed id-week. Brilliant, yes? Or is it? As I read more and more, I have questions/concerns about NOT having adequate water flow. But if my solution is problematic for some reason, then what is the answer to having a betta live happily in a filtered tank?! So many details, aspects... but I do love it.. and I think I'm getting there slowly... but oh my little brain hurts tonight! All input, thoughts, advice very welcome, and hugely appreciated..
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2014 2:06:37 GMT -5
UPDATE
Having done one dose of FUNGUS CURE at noon yesterday, I was to wait until noon tomorrow (48 hrs) to do a second dose and wait another 48 hrs before doing a WC... however I tested and found the PH to be 8.2 and the ammonia at .5 ppm. Thinking fixing these numbers is more crucial right now than having the perfect dose of meds in the tank, I opted to make a 20% WC (with tap water @ PH 7.4), replacing SALT to 1 tsp/gallon.
Hope that was the right choice?
Thx
|
|
|
Post by devonjohnsgard on Aug 6, 2014 9:36:35 GMT -5
As per your advice, his water temp is now 73.5-74º and he has 1 tsp. SALT (Note: Treating him in a QT tank with 1 gallon water/fungus cure) I want to follow your advice re: baths, and sorry but need a bit more help with that. First off, I meant to mention... I can't get methylene blue or potassium permanganate here in Canada... both banned. My LFS does not believe they can even bring them in. I can certainly do the dble. dose fungus cure, or using salt + epsom salts... or whatever you most recommend... but I do need to know the recipe and target time to keep him in etc. I will read your info on swabs, would have to be the hydrogen peroxide, but now this is out of my realm of experience.. yikes... I read about the Wonder shells and want to order for future... but to be clear, by 'in-tank', did you mean to add to his treatment tank? If so, I wonder if there's a comparable product here... Great that you have Carl's recommendations going. I would take a look at the reference Carl provided for more information on baths. I did not know MB and PP are banned in Canada. Is it still an issue if you order them off line? I would suggest doing what you can from the article. The Fungus Cure would be dble dose for 30 minutes and the salt 2 teaspoons per gallon for 30 mins. You could try the bath before the swab if you are uncomfortable with it. It may just beat it out without the swab. The medicated wonder shell would be in the treatment tank, while the fish was in that tank. I would then recommend a regular wonder shell in the main tank when the betta returns to it. This is the whole idea behind remineralaztion. As for the medicated wonder shells, the only place to get those is AAP. The separate medications might be able to be picked up, but like you said, some of those are banned. The WS are a US thing. Let us know how it goes.
|
|
|
Post by devonjohnsgard on Aug 6, 2014 9:38:36 GMT -5
UPDATE Having done one dose of FUNGUS CURE at noon yesterday, I was to wait until noon tomorrow (48 hrs) to do a second dose and wait another 48 hrs before doing a WC... however I tested and found the PH to be 8.2 and the ammonia at .5 ppm. Thinking fixing these numbers is more crucial right now than having the perfect dose of meds in the tank, I opted to make a 20% WC (with tap water @ PH 7.4), replacing SALT to 1 tsp/gallon. Hope that was the right choice? Thx Yes having the proper parameters is pretty important before treatment. You can work on them both at the same time though, since the betta is in the treatment tank.
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Aug 6, 2014 10:10:54 GMT -5
Thank you! Columnaris is often very difficult to treat, however my research as well as others have shown this to be a factor in both prevention and a more effective cure Good to know, as age is another major factor in the effectiveness of treatment Potassium Permanganate is getting more difficult to find anywhere due to its use in explosives. Methylene Blue is quite inert, so this is odd. Either way we sell both, including to Canada Generally about 20-30 minutes once (or twice if tolerated) per day as per the Fish Baths article Reference: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2009/07/fish-baths.htmlThese would be used in his treatment or display tank Carl
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2014 12:32:36 GMT -5
I did not know MB and PP are banned in Canada. Is it still an issue if you order them off line? I would suggest doing what you can from the article. The Fungus Cure would be dble dose for 30 minutes and the salt 2 teaspoons per gallon for 30 mins. The medicated wonder shell would be in the treatment tank, while the fish was in that tank. I would then recommend a regular wonder shell in the main tank when the betta returns to it. This is the whole idea behind remineralaztion. ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ REPLY Both large aquarium stores here told me they believe any incoming orders of MB and PP would get bumped at the gates... but Carl is saying (next post) that AAP sells both "including to Canada"... so I think that's our answer! I'm going to order both types Wonder Shells, but of course that will take some time to receive. To help this little guy NOW, the only product I can find here that replaces minerals would be Seachem REPLENISH. Could I use this for now until the Wonder Shells arrive? If so, maybe a 1/4 dose to start? Just in case you missed it, I did respond re: tank filtration if you look back...
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Aug 6, 2014 12:58:50 GMT -5
Yes, Replenish can be used, it can even be dripped into your aquarium so as to work as a constant supplier of mineral Cations. Dripping can get a bit more complicated, so often fractional daily dosing can also be employed. Another product besides Replenish is Equalibrium (also by SeaChem, however I prefer Replenish)
Carl
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2014 13:19:17 GMT -5
Yes, Replenish can be used, it can even be dripped into your aquarium so as to work as a constant supplier of mineral Cations. Dripping can get a bit more complicated, so often fractional daily dosing can also be employed. Another product besides Replenish is Equalibrium (also by SeaChem, however I prefer Replenish) Carl AWESOME. How much Replenish should I use in his 1 Gal. hospital tank for now.. and how often? I'm heading out to get some now. Planning to get that in, wait a bit then do a bath with double dose FUNGUS CURE + 2 tsp/gallon AQ SALT. Then back into hospital tank and add second dose of FUNGUS CURE for 48 hours. THANK YOU SO SO MUCH CARL, AND DEVONJOHNSGARD AS WELL... YOU GENTLEMEN ARE AMAZING AND OUR HEROS TODAY ! Am ordering Wonder Shells and likely the MB/PP for future use... And.. Re: Xochi's age: He won't reveal his birthday but he's still fighting.. so I'm still fighting!
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Aug 6, 2014 15:31:48 GMT -5
This is the tricky part for such a small container. I would recommend 1/10th of a cap full every water change and 1/20th a cap full in between water changes
Carl
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2014 17:05:22 GMT -5
This is the tricky part for such a small container. I would recommend 1/10th of a cap full every water change and 1/20th a cap full in between water changes Carl I see that this amounts to a standard full dose per Seachem's directions, based on 1 capful (or 5 ml/1 tsp.) per 10 gallons. Now how the heck do I dose that out? It's ok, I got this one covered heheheeee I took an (API test kit) vial and filled it to the 5 ml line. Then with a pipette withdrew the liquid, and counted 80 drops. So, to dose 1/10 of 80 drops/gallon, I'll simply use 8 drops/gallon with a water change, and 4 drops/gallon half-way between water changes. Easy-peasy! Hmmm, maybe not so much for use on an ongoing basis. This approach will get me through my little crisis, but I think this also illustrates the beauty of using the WONDER SHELLS for much easier, convenient and accurate maintenance! **** For anyone else planning to use this info, note: this equation works for my particular pipette so be sure and count out the drops with your own to determine your dose... don't just go by mine! CARL, CAN'T THANK YOU ENOUGH...
|
|
|
Post by angelminx on Aug 6, 2014 17:18:21 GMT -5
I never thought about doing that: measuring 5 ml into one of my test tubes and counting out the drops when trying to figure out small dosages. So many times dosages are only given for 10 gallons--maddening when I'm so terrible ate math! Thanks, Seapetal111!!! Now, if only I can figure out how to do it with powdered meds!
|
|
|
Post by devonjohnsgard on Aug 6, 2014 18:28:57 GMT -5
Thank you devonjohnsgard! The driftwood I only added 3 days ago (july 31), so it couldn't be the source of these woes. Rechecking my notes now I see the PH was 8.0 at that point (in error said 7.6 in orig. post). That being the reason I added it. (another area I'm trying to understand better, for example does it raise a concern of stability that my tap water is 7.4 but 8.0 in the tank.. with WC's every 7 days) Using an API liquid test kit, have been experimenting with tap water aged a day etc... The driftwood was not new, I had and used in the past. It's been in (dry) storage for months and I rehydrated it using conditioned fresh water. The 5.5G tank has a smallish hang-on filter (Hagen AquaClear- may be Canadian only), holding a pce of foam 1" x 2" x 3" + a black sponge filter foam ( 2" X 4" tall cylinder), a bag of Bio Max media, and currently charcoal. In addition, there are 2 more pieces of foam added IN THE TANK, as part of a little method I devised for allowing filter water to stream into the tank but without creating much water movement, which bettas of course HATE. This was after I tried switching to a sponge filter, only to have him after 2 days chew half his tail off! Vibration/noise of air pump, though I worked my heart out to mask all that. It's unusual to have a lower pH with the tap water and higher in the tank. Usually it would be the other way around. Are you getting these same results every time you test and you have tests a couple times each time? This seems like an error in the test. You do need to let the tap water "gas out" by sitting for a while before testing. At least an hour. Here is right from Carl's Chemistry article: "Another point to pH is tap water or well water pH when drawn will often gas out (sometimes referred to as “gassing out”). This is trapped CO2 gas in the tap water that will slowly gas out of the water if allowed to sit (also Hydrogen Sulfite can be present).
What I mean is you will get a sample of tap/well water then immediately test it and get a result such as 6.5 that can rise to 7.0 or higher over the next hour as CO2 gasses out, assuming there are carbonates (KH) in the water (even more common in well water from my experience). This is noteworthy in testing your tap water as you will NOT get accurate tap water pH readings if you test your water immediately after drawing it from the tap, it is best to wait at least one hour. This gassing out does NOT affect GH or KH as these are minerals that remain in the water."Source: americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.html#phYou shouldn't have to do a water change so often. Maybe every other week and this will also allow for more waste to build up, which will help keep your pH down. Doesn't sound like the driftwood was the problem...Though I always do at least a salt dip before placing anything like that in the tank... The filter sounds good enough, as long as you see some good build up on it. It would be nice to see it in a picture to be able to fully know what you are talking about. I think I understand a bit though. THANK YOU SO SO MUCH CARL, AND DEVONJOHNSGARD AS WELL... YOU GENTLEMEN ARE AMAZING AND OUR HEROS TODAY ! Am ordering Wonder Shells and likely the MB/PP for future use... You are welcome for the help. Happy to do it. I'm glad you are jumping on the mineralization even if it's the replenish for now. The WS is much easier IMO. Sounds like you are going to be able to get some MB and PP, which is great... No making bombs...JK Hope your little guy pulls through. Keep us updated
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2014 20:20:52 GMT -5
I never thought about doing that: measuring 5 ml into one of my test tubes and counting out the drops when trying to figure out small dosages. So many times dosages are only given for 10 gallons--maddening when I'm so terrible ate math! Thanks, Seapetal111!!! Now, if only I can figure out how to do it with powdered meds! Glad if it's helpful to you angelminx ! I'm no mathematician either, but I find you can go pretty far with simple division and and a lot of determination Powdered meds: All I know to do with them is dump a packet meant for 10 gallons onto a little flat glass plate, then with a flat tool (anything with a firm flat surface and a crisp straight edge on it), pat the powder out into a thin square with a uniform thickness, then with the straight edge divide it into two, then make further divisions to separate out the amount you need for the volume you're treating. Need to treat a 1 gallon tank? divide into 2 halves, then divide one of those portions into five strips.. done! You can then leave the portions laid out like that ( I cover with a plastic lid) so you have ready made portions for your next dose. See? Nothin' but simple division ! I agree it's frustrating that meds are usually packaged for 10 gallons. It would be easier for ppl with small tanks if they came in 1 gal doses, and easy enough to dump 10 of those into a 10 gallon if that's your size. Also, doing like I described above with Fungus Cure, the powder is green with a small amount of brown specks in it. If those brown specks are one of the ingredients, there's no way you can divide up that recipe and get a smaller dose with the correct ratio of each drug. Ah well, guess they have their reasons. Guess we'll have to size up!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2014 21:41:45 GMT -5
No, I have not been waiting before testing tap water. I thought THAT was it's normal state and when it sits and the PH rises (similarly if you use a bubbler to achieve the same just faster), that the raised level is a CHANGED state. So it's the other way around.. got it!
That means when I have day old or tank water with a PH of 8.2, that that is my PH!.. So high! Dont' tell my tank of happy rummies and cardinals!
So how can you match a tank temp of 76º+ if you have to let the water sit around for an hour (thus cooling)
Oh man, every time I think I know what I'm doing... You shouldn't have to do a water change so often. Maybe every other week and this will also allow for more waste to build up, which will help keep your pH down. Another AHA moment here. Mulm in the tank- bad, mulm in the filter-good! You're telling me to ease up on the housework. No one's ever told me that before ! Doesn't sound like the driftwood was the problem...Though I always do at least a salt dip before placing anything like that in the tank... But of course.. smart!
The filter sounds good enough, as long as you see some good build up on it. It would be nice to see it in a picture to be able to fully know what you are talking about. I think I understand a bit though. I took pics but with the filter running ... will do again but QT tank in the way just now..
Hope your little guy pulls through. Keep us updated Thanks, we are tryin'! He just came through his first bath like an athlete (30 min. w/double dose Fungus Cure and AQ Salt), and has his second dose of the FC in until Friday.
Again thanks so much.. invaluable help!
and...no, no bombs
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 7, 2014 14:17:00 GMT -5
At this point, body shape is perfect! (no more enlarged tummy since the switch from Furan2+Kanaplex to Fungus Cure)
THIS AN UPDATE THE NEXT MORNING: Where the 'plaque' was, between his right fin and gill, some teeny specks of white and still white under that gill. Abdomen scales still white but overall area reduced.
*Any chance of these white areas being dead tissue ie treated and ok now?
I'm worried about him sitting in water that I just tested at 1.0 ammonia. (tried to feed a few times but quickly removed food bits) If I start with WC's again like on the last dose, the meds will be diluted again. Either way seems counter productive. What to do?!
CAN I USE PRIME TO BIND THE AMMONIA/NITRITES...... OR WILL IT BIND THE MEDS TOO ? ( I'll email Seachem on this)
Wondering 'what if' not better by end of dose time tomorrow..
And feeling I should be prepping his regular tank and it's water... I doubt he can go back in that the way it is! (was treated with the furan 2 + Kanamcyn but not the current med being fungus cure). I could treat it with that also, but I understand saprolegnia requires bleach to kill... ? If so, could I (discard gravel, hope I can save floating log and driftwood with bleach?) bleach aquarium/filter and set up with fresh water and start aging it? Have sponges in tetra tank I could import..
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Aug 7, 2014 16:36:40 GMT -5
Good idea, this is similar to how I have performed liquid drip dosing in both FW & SW Most definitely, however nothing is ever for sure when it comes to disease treatment in fish or any other animal! The only meds it will interact with is copper, Malchite Green and similar chemical type treatments From our Aquarium Answers; Water Conditioners article: "Some chemical dyes such as Malachite Green or Methylene Blue can also be neutralized by Prime, Amquel Plus or related water conditioners, however these are not the strong oxidizers that Potassium Permanganate is. In experiments, it takes more than four times the dose of Prime to even moderately change the color of Malachite Green in a test solution, unlike the small amount needed to neutralize Potassium Permanganate.
This same experiment found that Prime and other water conditioners "neutralizing activities" do not last long once introduced into water. So adding Prime, Amquel Plus, etc. then waiting for 15 minutes before adding Malachite Green, etc. yields no changes in the malachite green in solution."Reference: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2007/04/aquarium-water-conditioners.htmlYes Reference Aquarium Disease Prevention; Sterilization of Aquarium www.americanaquariumproducts.com/aquarium_disease.html#sterilizeCarl
|
|