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Post by Carl on Oct 12, 2013 13:57:43 GMT -5
We made a major update of our in depth aquarium chemistry article.. Change to the layout, additional resources were added, and information was updated. As well out of date resources (or dead URL resources) were deleted www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Jul 18, 2014 13:14:52 GMT -5
Many more updates were made to our "Aquarium Chemistry" article. It is definitely a long read, but also worth a a few readings to get it if one desires to move from beginning to more advanced aquarium/fish/pond keeping! Here is a quote from the article: "Once you establish a "sweet spot" for your unique aquarium environment, use the blends ratio numbers that work for you! This may mean a drip system, mineral blocks, daily small doses of buffers (so as to have constant reaction and very little change in KH), or weekly or even bi-weekly additions of buffers as I usually did with my aquarium maintenance clients (as I could not be at my clients every day, so the buffers and mineral replenishments had to be adequate for the gap between visits)."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Aug 4, 2014 13:45:59 GMT -5
I have further updated the "Aquarium Chemistry" article, in particular the difference between the use of water softener artificially softened water and natural soft water such as comes from the Amazon River Basin. Here is a quote: "As well, DO NOT use water from a home/business water softener as this "artificial" softwater will drive out ALL mineral cations, no matter how much you add back in. As noted in the "Electrolytes" section of this article, the chemistry of water softened by a water softener is not at all the same as soft water from the Amazon or most any other natural soft body of water. These waters are softened by tannins, not the use of sodium or potassium to drive out all other minerals via precipitation.
The difference in the most simple terms is water in SE Asia or the Amazon is softened naturally by tannins in peat, etc. These tannins basically out compete the mineral cations that are present in the water, but these mineral cations are still present as in the Amazon River."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.html#amazonCarl
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Post by Carl on Sept 22, 2014 19:51:49 GMT -5
We have updated the Aquarium Chemistry article, in particular adding information about the use of the Balling Method" for marine aquarium calcium supplementation Here is a quote: "An even newer method for calcium supplementation/maintenance is the "Balling Method" developed by Hans-Werner Balling of Germany. The Balling Method has become a popular method for dosing reef aquariums with essential elements, such as calcium, magnesium, among others, and maintaining adequate carbonate hardness alkalinity (carbonate hardness).
When used correctly, all levels of major elements remain constant, with calcium levels at 420 mg/l, magnesium at about 1300 mg/l and carbonate alkalinity at 7 dKH."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.html#kalkwasserCarl
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Post by goldenpuon on Oct 12, 2014 22:35:10 GMT -5
I briefly read the updated material really like the information you added Carl. It is not only useful, but I really liked how you backed up the reason for not adding calcium via the kalkwasser too fast with a chemical equation and other scientific evidence to support your reasoning. Great job as always! P.S. I am taking a college biology class now with a heavy focus on chemistry and find I am able to understand and appreciate Redox and the role it plays for fish a lot more. Renee
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Post by Carl on Mar 10, 2015 12:28:38 GMT -5
I have further updated the "Aquarium Chemistry" article Here is a snip from this article (the pH section): " An exception to not chasing pH or a pH being lower in general in freshwater aquariums (not saltwater) is with some fish, a slow change in pH can be a signal of change of season and then be a breeding stimulant. By slowly decreasing pH over a few days in an aquarium this can often stimulate fish to breed. So this is one aspect of aquarium chemistry where I would suggest a lower pH, but even then only cyclically, in other words lowering an aquarium from 7.5 to 6.5 or even 6.0 for species such as been reported with American Flag fish. This also does NOT mean lowering GH and driving out mineral Cations is needed, only a lowering of pH as in nature as a signal of season change."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.html#phCarl
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Post by angelminx on Mar 10, 2015 16:32:08 GMT -5
I just read something similar within the last few days !
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Post by Carl on Jan 14, 2016 14:56:03 GMT -5
I have been so busy of late (not often for good reasons either), that I have failed to share all my article updates here at Everything Aquatic. Anyway, the "Aquarium Chemistry" article has been updated. Here is a quote from the article: "RO or DI System? As for what is is better to use, RO or DI, the short answer is if an optimum Reverse Osmosis Filter/Unit is used that utilizes TFC (thin film composite) membranes and activated catalytic carbon block filters, the RO unit is more than adequate!
Unfortunately many persons read the "cut and past" hype in many forums, then fall for the cheap price of many Amazon/eBay combined RO/DI units that often cost less than a good quality 3 state RO unit only. However when common sense logic is applied, if you are using an RO unit such as the AAP/TMC that applies the features already noted, you will get basically 0 nitrates, 0 phosphates, and 0 chlorine/chloramines and NOT get the concentrated ammonia or other molecules due to high rejection rates and inefficient membranes that then result in your DI resin chamber working over time to removes these! The result is the need to replace these DI resins every 50 gallons of produced water or even less leading to operation cost that far exceed any real or imagined benefit of purchasing these lower cost combined RO/DI filters!!
About all the DI (which means De-ionized) really does for an aquarium keeper over a well designed/quality RO unit is produce a neutral pH water. For marine reef tanks this is unnecessary based on my extensive use and comparison over the years. For a softwater Amazon biotope aquarium, since the KH buffers are stripped by the RO unit, the simple addition of an acid buffer or the natural nitrification bio processes will reduce this pH."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Feb 9, 2016 18:42:41 GMT -5
I have updated the "Aquarium Chemistry" article, this time in the alkalinity/KH section. Here is a quote: "Marine Aquarium alkalinity; Marine Buffer in particular will stabilize pH at 8.3 and no higher when used at full strength, assuming no problems with exceptional acid production such as decomposition in live rock. At lower doses it can be used in many freshwater applications. For marine reef aquariums, SeaChem Reef Builder is an excellent buffer that raises alkalinity without an immediate impact on pH. Over time this product will tend to stabilize pH at 8.3 Another advantage of Reef Builder is it is ionically balanced and WILL NOT deplete calcium, strontium, or magnesium which tend to precipitate out with increasing alkalinity, unlike what may happen with popular economy soda ash sodium carbonate products that have more immediate impact on pH (instead of bi-carbonates).
Another popular method in Europe that unfortunately has not taken off in North America is the "Balling Method" which uses a 3 step program/method for complete reef aquarium chemical maintenance which includes alkalinity with step B. Step B uses sodium bicarbonate along with step A which uses calcium chloride dihydrate, along with step C with is complete sea salt minus the sodium chloride. The Balling method is scientifically proven and also maintains an ionic balance without any precipitation of key components of saltwater or rapid changes to pH. This method is also preferable for advanced reef keepers looking to move past bulk economy methods of marine reef maintenance."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Apr 26, 2016 9:37:20 GMT -5
I have updated the Aquarium Chemistry article in many sections Here is an excerpt from this article in the pH section: "Another aspect of pH to be aware of is temperature. A higher temperature will lower pH readings at higher values (more alkaline, so it is important to compare pH readings at the same temperature, otherwise readings can be inaccurate. HOWEVER; "as the pH falls as temperature increases, this does not mean that water becomes more acidic at higher temperatures. A solution is acidic if there is an excess of hydrogen ions over hydroxide ions. In the case of pure water, there are always the same concentration of hydrogen ions and hydroxide ions and hence, the water is still neutral (pH = pOH) - even if its pH changes."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.html#phCarl
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Post by Carl on Jul 12, 2016 8:59:12 GMT -5
I have updated the Chemistry article in the last week. Here is an excerpt: "RO (Reverse Osmosis) or DI (De-ionized) water can be used to aid in pH, GH, & KH reduction. The process of blending RO with tap or well water is also called "Cutting Water". Other than advanced aquarium keepers, I would recommend using or starting with no more than 25% to start with the remaining 75% well or tap water. Higher amounts of RO/DI water can be used later as needed and as the aquarium keeper slowly finds the "sweet spot". Example: If your tap water is say 8.0 pH with a KH of 200 ppm, the addition of 25% RO/DI water (neutral 7.0 ph, 0 KH) should cut your KH by 25% to 150 KH, and your pH to 7.7. There are many other variables such as substrate, bio load, that makes this not as simple as I would wish this to be for non-advanced aquarium keepers; but for those seeking simple adjustments for community aquariums or basic Discus, Betta, etc. fish keeping, this is still a reasonably stress free simple solution. You may have to experiment some such as using 50% RO water, but once you find a percentage, unless your tap water chemistry changes (which is more common that you may think), your results should then be consistent."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.html#rodiCarl
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jul 13, 2016 10:59:17 GMT -5
I have updated the Chemistry article in the last week. Here is an excerpt: "RO (Reverse Osmosis) or DI (De-ionized) water can be used to aid in pH, GH, & KH reduction. The process of blending RO with tap or well water is also called "Cutting Water". Other than advanced aquarium keepers, I would recommend using or starting with no more than 25% to start with the remaining 75% well or tap water. Higher amounts of RO/DI water can be used later as needed and as the aquarium keeper slowly finds the "sweet spot". Example: If your tap water is say 8.0 pH with a KH of 200 ppm, the addition of 25% RO/DI water (neutral 7.0 ph, 0 KH) should cut your KH by 25% to 150 KH, and your pH to 7.7. There are many other variables such as substrate, bio load, that makes this not as simple as I would wish this to be for non-advanced aquarium keepers; but for those seeking simple adjustments for community aquariums or basic Discus, Betta, etc. fish keeping, this is still a reasonably stress free simple solution. You may have to experiment some such as using 50% RO water, but once you find a percentage, unless your tap water chemistry changes (which is more common that you may think), your results should then be consistent."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.html#rodiCarl Here's a video about this.
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Post by Carl on Feb 8, 2017 10:30:55 GMT -5
I have updated the Aquarium Chemistry article.
Here is an excerpt: "I should also note that I do NOT find the use of Neutral pH regulators helpful for community aquariums ditto Discus Buffer). A more natural balance of carbonate buffers and acid buffers (or a mix both natural or supplemented buffers) is much better for long term keeping of a healthy aquarium chemistry equilibrium. These products often use phosphates which are not a healthy way to neutralize pH/KH, and in fact these products drive out ESSENTIAL calcium and magnesium ions!! As SeaChem states on their website; "softens water by precipitating calcium and magnesium". One danger of long term use is that I found, and this is backed up by the basic science of how these Neutral Regulators work along with the importance of calcium & magnesium for ALL fish, is that fish health IS AFFECTED long term.
If an aquarium keeper finds a neutral regulator the only way to stabilize an aquarium pH/KH, this indicates that there are likely too many acid producing organics such as mulm in canister filters (especially in ceramic media) or under gravel, decor, etc. in the aquarium. Another proof of this unnatural stability is if a Wonder Shell is used, it will produce a "dust" on the bottom that is easily stirred into a cloud in the water (due to phosphates in these products).
The bottom line is the use of Neutral Regulators or Discus Buffer such as by SeaChem or API Proper pH 7 is not a healthy nor natural way to maintain good aquarium chemistry and my years of maintaining many 100's of aquariums has born this out (This is not a knock on either company, in particular SeaChem, as most of their products I would highly recommend)!"
Carl
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Post by ansatci6 on Jun 8, 2017 2:21:41 GMT -5
Thanks for the sharing.
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jun 8, 2017 11:43:11 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Aug 8, 2017 13:06:54 GMT -5
I have updated the in depth "Aquarium Chemistry"article Here is an excerpt: "Magnesium, the other major component of Epsom Salt, plays a role in the activity of more than 325 enzymes. That said you would only want to add about 1/4- 1/2 teaspoon per 5 gallons (18 liters). Although useful for therapeutic reasons, magnesium and sulfates in particular are best introduced as part of a greater trace element balance in an aquarium. I ONLY recommend Epsom Salts for therapeutic aquarium treatment, NOT on an ongoing basis*. The best use is 1/4- 1/2 teaspoon per 1 gallon of a 30 minute Fish Bath.
Also note that Epsom salts (as well as sodium chloride; regular table salt) do NOT evaporate or decompose like antibiotics, so only add more after water changes.
*NOTE: Ongoing use of Epsom Salt in the display aquarium can have opposite effect of causing osmoregulation issues, as well as slowed heartbeat and possibly eventual death. What is noteworthy is that Magnesium is not normally depleted at very high rates (even in marine aquariums I found the need to add additional Magnesium very infrequent). QUOTE from article below: "As for magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt), while I have not specifically know the mechanism, what I do know from experimenting around is that it works well in a bath, but is actually detrimental “in-tank” for freshwater. My guess is magnesium is more of a controlling osmoregulator like sodium chloride can be as well, not something the fish need much of. As an analogy, think of how our atmosphere is mostly nitrogen, yet it is oxygen that we utilize. Ditto magnesium sulfate in water, especially marine aquariums, but over loading in freshwater long term seems to have a negative affect, while a short term bath of magnesium sulfate seems to help draw fluids though the fish in a therapeutic way" Reference: Fish Baths, Dips, Swabs; Including Coral; For Disease, Ammonia, Treatment"Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Dec 10, 2017 19:58:53 GMT -5
I have updated the Aquarium Chemistry Article Here is an excerpt: TDS Before I delve too much into GH, let me touch on the the term "TDS" which is simply "Total Dissolved Solids" TDS measures conductivity and pretty much everything that is in the water. In other words, TDS is correlated to GH and frankly everything else in water that can be a solid. TDS is what you get if you let all the water evaporate out of a container. Total unDissolved Solids. A healthy TDS reading in a planted freshwater and most community freshwater would be about 300 ppm, while an East Afrifan Cichlid tank would be closer to 800 ppm.
Basically you can have a high TDS, but low GH, which is why that although a TDS meter is a good device to have for any advanced aquarium keeper, it still does not take the place of a GH & KH test kit. As well, using only a TDS meter can result in potentially a poor RH score (part of Redox Balance) since it measures overall conductivity, but this could possibly exclude essential calcium Cations needed for healthy Redox reduction.
Referenced Reading/Discussion: Understanding GH & TDS & Hardness Product Resource: AAP TDS Monitor/MeterCarl
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Post by Carl on Apr 23, 2018 15:20:02 GMT -5
Here is another update to my popular "Aquarium Chemistry" article Here is an excerpt: "It is also noteworthy that a GH test is not always an accurate measure of positive calcium and other mineral ions (cations), as with many Ammonia test kits, which are inaccurate after using products such as Prime and give false positive for ammonia NH3 as they cannot discern the difference between the NH3 and NH4+. The same can be said for GH tests that may show a high GH (despite the fact these test kits test for free divalent cations), when in reality all positive calcium ions are depleted due to Redox balancing, which is why one MUST constantly supply these mineral cations by whatever means, whether by regular water changes (which often are not enough, especially in small aquariums) or by use of mineral replenishers such as Wonder Shells (which will throw off accurate readings of GH test kits due to their constant supply of positive mineral ions such as calcium!!!).
My ORP readings, experience, and visual tests confirm this too as the picture to the right clearly demonstrates where by potassium permanganate (an oxidizer) was added in equal doses with one using water changes and the other a Regular AAP Wonder Shell. It is noteworthy that the GH statistically was the same between the aquariums with clean water and the one with the AAP Wonder Shell."Carl
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