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Post by brenda on Dec 23, 2008 10:48:30 GMT -5
Carl (or anyone who can help), do you have an article on how to clean your custom sterilizer? I don't want to try and take anything apart and end up breaking it.
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Post by Carl on Dec 23, 2008 14:56:29 GMT -5
Unlike some models of UV Sterilizers, this one only needs o be rinsed out since there is direct contact with the UV-C Bulb. The bulb itself (& often the O rings too) need to be replaced every 6 months for aquariums (6 to 12 months for ponds depending upon climate). This is usually very easy, however sometimes the O rings slightly melt to the bulb and you would then need to use a sharp knife to loosen it. Otherwise the mode of bulb change is to empty the water from the unit, then simply "pop" off each end, disconnecting electrical, followed by un-screwing the compression rings on each side of the bulb, then removing the old bulb and replacing with the new bulb (& maybe O rings as well). I hope this helps. I also have directions on this page (although you should have received some with your unit unless we goofed): American Aquarium Products; DownloadsCarl
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Post by 8 in the Corner on Dec 23, 2008 20:20:15 GMT -5
Does a UV sterilizer need to be on a tank constantly to keep everything sterilized? With the amount of tanks that I have, it would be cost prohibitive (to say the least) to outfit each tank with one. Could I just move one UV unit from tank to tank periodically and benefit them all instead of just one? John
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Post by brenda on Dec 23, 2008 20:44:44 GMT -5
That's a good question. I would imagine it would help to some extent...
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Post by bikeguy33 on Dec 23, 2008 22:34:08 GMT -5
most people use them when needed....and some use them all the time. there are definate benifits for both and both work effectively....
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Post by Carl on Dec 23, 2008 22:45:43 GMT -5
In multiple tank set ups I have on occasion placed a few tanks together on the same filter system, which includes the UV Sterilizer. However generally I have one tank/one UV. I also have rotated UV Sterilizers to different tanks, using an Internal Power Head to make this move relatively easy. You will definitely still receive the germicidal benefits by having a rotating UV vs. nothing at all, however I have still observed (and recorded via Redox, disease incidence, etc.) better results with closer to 24/7 UV Sterilizer applications. Speaking of Redox, this is one of the lesser known benefits of using a UV, and this kept more stable when the UV is constantly run. For killing pathogens though, often just running a UV per tank does help enough when you keep otherwise perfect water management practices (which I suspect you already do John) This practice is actually more common among more advanced fish keepers as yourself (I know others that employ this practice), I personally believe that the cost of a UV vs. other filters and fish, not to mention the time spent moving the UV does not justify this practice, but this is my opinion. I guess what I am saying is that for $60-$100 with the cost of many fish (not to mention the personal value which I know many clients placed on fish that often cost only a $1 or so) and filters, I just view a UV as one more tool towards good water management, emphasizing the word tool, since I do not believe a UV Sterilizer is a cure all any more than water changes solving all problems, or any other method or aquarium product. Often when UVs do not help though it is due to poor applications such as to high a flow rate or poorly designed units (which price does not always indicate quality, such as the poor value Tetra Units). UV Sterilization; how it worksCarl
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