Post by Carl on Mar 12, 2020 14:31:00 GMT -5
Another updated to the Aquarium Fish Parasites, Anchor Worm Section
www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2007/03/trematodes-and-nematodes-in-fish.html
EXCERPT:
"TREATMENT:
Best treatment is to use tweezers to remove the worm from the fish.
The fish should be gently cradled in the palm of your hand so as to not injure the fish as a net can. After removal, the wound SHOULD/MUST BE treated/swabbed with Merbromin/AAP Wound Control (Best to prevent an infection), Methylene Blue (2nd choice), or Hydrogen Peroxide (3rd choice).
If the Anchor Worm cannot be removed (or you are uncomfortable doing so), this is especially true with very small anchor worms, a direct swab of 50% water Potassium Permanganate & water directly on the worm should be performed followed by a rinse then a swab with Merbromin (AAP Wound Control).
With either procedure, a bath should also follow that consists of AAP Bettamax (double dose), OR Methylene Blue, Salt, Nitrofurazone, & possibly Metronidazole.
For serious infections and to prevent reinfestation, an in tank treatment with AAP Dyacide or Clout (Dimilin is similar), OR Pimpzine OR a Super Ich Plus (or ParaGuard, but not as strong)/Furan 2 combination can be used, OR General Clear, OR PraziPro (this is in order of strength).
AAP Dyacide or Clout (Clout is no longer available) are about the only treatments that will kill the Anchor worms while still actually on the fish, otherwise most medications kill Anchor Worms in the free swimming stage.
If a secondary infection is also present (which is common), such as red sores, a combination of AAP ParaGuard and Triple Sulfa OR AAP Furan 2 is often the best choice (beside the before mentioned physical removal and baths)
As part of the lifecycle, the female anchor worm will release her eggs into the water when they are about to hatch into free swimming larvae. These larvae will swim about for up to a week looking for a fish to attach itself to. If they don’t attach themselves in this period of time they will die off. So interrupting this is generally essential for a full "cure".
This means healthy aquarium conditions, including optimizing ALL water parameters along with water changes.
A medicated fish food using your current fish food soaked with AAP Discomed may help further along with AAP Pipzine, Prazipro or General Cure in the aquarium (Pipzine being the first choice).
Recommended Product Sources that support this FREE Information and the Aquarium/Pond Keeping Hobby:
*AAP Dyacide (Dylox)
*AAP Pipzine
*AAP Discomed"
www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2007/03/trematodes-and-nematodes-in-fish.html
EXCERPT:
"TREATMENT:
Best treatment is to use tweezers to remove the worm from the fish.
The fish should be gently cradled in the palm of your hand so as to not injure the fish as a net can. After removal, the wound SHOULD/MUST BE treated/swabbed with Merbromin/AAP Wound Control (Best to prevent an infection), Methylene Blue (2nd choice), or Hydrogen Peroxide (3rd choice).
If the Anchor Worm cannot be removed (or you are uncomfortable doing so), this is especially true with very small anchor worms, a direct swab of 50% water Potassium Permanganate & water directly on the worm should be performed followed by a rinse then a swab with Merbromin (AAP Wound Control).
With either procedure, a bath should also follow that consists of AAP Bettamax (double dose), OR Methylene Blue, Salt, Nitrofurazone, & possibly Metronidazole.
For serious infections and to prevent reinfestation, an in tank treatment with AAP Dyacide or Clout (Dimilin is similar), OR Pimpzine OR a Super Ich Plus (or ParaGuard, but not as strong)/Furan 2 combination can be used, OR General Clear, OR PraziPro (this is in order of strength).
AAP Dyacide or Clout (Clout is no longer available) are about the only treatments that will kill the Anchor worms while still actually on the fish, otherwise most medications kill Anchor Worms in the free swimming stage.
If a secondary infection is also present (which is common), such as red sores, a combination of AAP ParaGuard and Triple Sulfa OR AAP Furan 2 is often the best choice (beside the before mentioned physical removal and baths)
As part of the lifecycle, the female anchor worm will release her eggs into the water when they are about to hatch into free swimming larvae. These larvae will swim about for up to a week looking for a fish to attach itself to. If they don’t attach themselves in this period of time they will die off. So interrupting this is generally essential for a full "cure".
This means healthy aquarium conditions, including optimizing ALL water parameters along with water changes.
A medicated fish food using your current fish food soaked with AAP Discomed may help further along with AAP Pipzine, Prazipro or General Cure in the aquarium (Pipzine being the first choice).
Recommended Product Sources that support this FREE Information and the Aquarium/Pond Keeping Hobby:
*AAP Dyacide (Dylox)
*AAP Pipzine
*AAP Discomed"
