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Post by rusalka on Feb 7, 2019 22:53:50 GMT -5
First of all, I'm very sorry for having to write all this but I'm so frustrated.
I feel like I'm not equipped neither physically nor mentally to cope with a piece of aquarium equipment intended for a hobbyist. Please forgive my acrimony... I'm just very disappointed and helpless.
I've changed lamps in it before, but today I wanted to change the sleeve. I damaged my original sleeve while changing a lamp for the first time, it was before I watched the video you made. The damage was not so bad and I used it "as is" for years. I finally decided to change the sleeve. The long story short. I just can not, I'm frustrated, it stuck halfway, I already broke my new lamp when removing the sleeve... yes I had to remove it a couple of times because it didn't go forward, so I thought maybe I move it backward, to open again and see something that will show me how stupid I was... but no, everything was done by instructions, I watched the video, I did everything right. And the sleeve still doesn't close to the point when I can turn and latch it. May be I should put some oil on the rubber rings?
By the way, here is what happened with the black plastic tube (that is rotated in your demo on how to unscrew the sterilizer open). It fell off easily during regular maintenance, and I don't see how it's supposed to be secured, I was perhaps just glued...
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Post by rusalka on Feb 7, 2019 23:05:26 GMT -5
In the absence of the black plastic tube, when you want to untwist the quartz sleeve you can only use the remaining plastic rim, but not to forget that it only holds the quartz sleeve with two screws in plastic sockets. If you want to REMOVE the sleeve it's even worse, because now you basically wrestling against those two tiny screws in plastic... To avoid it I had to wedge my fingers between two parts to remove the quartz sleeve... and it's VERY tight. This is how I eventually broke my lamp off the lamp base. imgur.com/a/Oj7wCrC |
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Post by rusalka on Feb 7, 2019 23:48:23 GMT -5
Phew, I finally was able to provide a picture above, only in a form of a link  Continuing my rant. All in all this thing was not designed with people like me in mind - those who have a smaller hand. I can barely wrap my hand around this sterilizer basket to be able to press both releasing tabs. You have to press hard and even, and it's big strain when you stretch your fingers like this. Here is an image: imgur.com/a/VF1w93pPlus, you have to also PULL hard to remove the basket, and I found that I can't simultaneously press with the widest span of my two fingers and pull hard with the same two fingers... For pulling I need to actually GRAB the basket with my whole palm in which case I can't effectively press the releasing tabs. My hands are just too small to handle it - with one hand. I need both my hands to remove the basket - one is mostly pressing the release, and another one is wrapped around and pulling. And I need a third one to hold the cap of the canister, pulling to the opposite side . Now I understand why I initially hated cleaning this filter. I had to use one hand to hold the top, while trying to release the basket with just one hand, and always ended up with spraining my wrist and palm. Until I realized to hook the canister up onto something by its suction cups, on the edge of the tank, for example. So I can only open it when it lies flat and attached to something. In my case it is an acrylic divider in the middle of my tank. |
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Feb 8, 2019 12:26:17 GMT -5
Lubing always helps.
Are you lining the tab up with the hole while trying to place the quartz sleeve back over the lamp? This tab needs to go into the hole before trying to twist. This is about 2:50 mins into the video.
Other than this, you may have to video the whole process, so I can see what your doing.
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Post by Carl on Feb 8, 2019 14:49:56 GMT -5
Did you watch this video?
Sorry you are having this issue.
I should note that the person who made this video has small hands too (much smaller than mine)
Lining up the tab as Devon noted is what often causes some to have difficulty with this UV Sleeve replacement
We also would be more than happy to see what we can do from our side at AAP if you do mind returning it (time to repair is no charge, we only charge for parts)
Shipping nowadays has gotten really pricey, but we might still be able to get you a better price and provide a label for you at our cost (you would need to contact info@americanaquariumproducts.com for a label)
Carl
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Post by rusalka on Feb 9, 2019 1:45:27 GMT -5
Thank you for the reply. I have SAE 20 motor oil and.... olive oil... What can I use that is safe? Yes I followed the video instructions. I think it's the rubber rings - they may be new and not slippery. I will try to lube the rubbers and if it doesn't help, I will make the full video of my attempt. Here is how I'm trying to remove the stuck sleeve. Even if I didn't align the tab (I'm pretty sure I did) it shouldn't get stuck like this. It looks like I'm able to wiggle the black rim, but it only wiggles on the two screws, I'm afraid to apply more force so that not to tear out the screws. I tried to wedge my fingers like in this video, to make it easier on the screws. You have to be careful with full force and wiggling, I broke the lamp like this, because it released suddenly while I was wiggling. But I found a way to avoid it - to apply force using my body as a guide, sitting on my haunches. Here I already removed the sleeve, but just showing the position. My stomach and thighs help me to guide my efforts. When the sleeve releases, I pull the parts straight apart without breaking the lamp. imgur.com/a/IC3Mm3yOMG I will become an expert... I just pray that lube will help me put it back on. I need to know what oil I can use. |
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Post by rusalka on Feb 9, 2019 2:41:56 GMT -5
I should note that the person who made this video has small hands too (much smaller than mine) Thank you for the response! Yes, he has small hands (perhaps stronger than mine) but how was he able to release the basket? I tried to see that moment in the video, first he pressed the tabs, then stopped pressing and magically released the basket. Mine does not release like this, I have to simultaneously press and pull. If I stop pressing, the tabs clutch back to their place. Well now, as my sterilizer got older, this clutch became weaker and it's easier to release the basket. Thank you for the offer to repair, let's see if I succeed with oiling the rubbers first. I hope we'll figure out remotely in this topic what the problem is. I would only ask you for one thing - I will make another order with just a lamp and two wonder shells, medicated and regular. I forgot to add wonder shells to my last order, and I broke my new lamp before I even used it. If I can get a free shipping on this little order, it's still cheaper than shipping the whole sterilizer! And a consolation prize for me. PS. One day without sterilizer (even if the lamp was old) my goldfish which is undergoing ich treatment got secondary fungus infection! Sterilizer really works! |
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Post by Carl on Feb 9, 2019 11:45:24 GMT -5
I looked up the date of your purchase of the CUP 609 UV, it was Sept. of 2013 which honestly is amazing for this product, which tells me you have taken exceptional care of this piece of equipment. These Submersible UVs just by their nature are usually only good for 2 years with reasonable maintenance (& even less with poor maintenance). AAP notes this too on the web page. So my hats off to you in how well you have taken care of your UV and likely the fitting have simply dried out too much which is why the difficulties. The video was made with a new UV which would be much more pliable with soft seals than yours would be, so I am not surprised with the difficulties Resource: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/InternalUVSterilizer.htmlFrom the above web page: "While by their design, NO Submersible UV Sterilizer is long lived as per our professional aquarium maintenance companies extensive testing, this is one of the few if not ONLY Category B Submersible UV Sterilizers and even with a shorter lifespan typical of submersible UVs compared to traditional inline UVs, at even two years of life (the AAP TMC line averages over 10 years), the operating cost is only $4.75 per month which is cheap for level one Sterilization (this $4.75 assumes purchase & replacement of HO UV lamps every six months too)"Carl |
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Post by rusalka on Feb 9, 2019 22:30:08 GMT -5
The rotor is probably the weak spot, as in any filter. And the hands of the user, that can break something during maintenance. But after I broke my first quartz sleeve (not to the point to make it unusable) I was extremely delicate with this equipment. The suction cups already destroyed as did the sponge. But I followed the advice of someone from your website - that I can use any sponge, so I took a blue sheet sponge (that looks like felt), made a tube of it and sewn it, so I have a new functioning sponge now. Carl, can you please tell me what should I use as a lube? Machine oil or olive? I think I need to apply it on the rubber rings on the quartz sleeve (the picture below). I can't figure out if the water will or will not get into contact with this rubbers... Probably olive oil is better if it gets in the water. The lamp is not going to contact with this lube, so safety for the water and fish is the first factor... imgur.com/a/uM5JiLg |
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Post by Carl on Feb 10, 2019 11:30:06 GMT -5
Either Silicone Lubricant or Petroleum Jelly should be used
Carl
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Post by rusalka on Feb 11, 2019 0:38:15 GMT -5
Quick update. I did it! It's working. Petroleum jelly worked.
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Post by Carl on Feb 11, 2019 10:31:48 GMT -5
Great that you got this UV/Filter going again!
Carl
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Post by rusalka on Feb 17, 2019 0:07:51 GMT -5
I want to add some tips. Petroleum jelly either dries or rubber absorbs it. I applied a little jelly, got distracted by my kids and in two minutes the rubber rings were no longer slippery. I had to reapply. Now I dread changing a lamp, because the jelly there, inside the filter, is dry by now. I am curious about other people experience - those who had to change the original quartz sleeve for a replacement one. Is it a common problem with new rubber? Now about a slit and a tab. When we put the sleeve with a lamp back on, trying to match the tab and the slit - this could be much easier if we had marking notches on the outside of both parts that we just need to match. I will scratch such notches on the plastic next time before pulling the sleeve off. It only looks like the slit is big and it's an easy task to fit the tab into it. In fact we don't have that much wiggle room, because we then have to rotate the sleeve and click it closed. The two clutches that click - they also have to be positioned precisely when we press the quartz sleeve against the body of the filter, otherwise they will be in the way and won't let the sleeve close. I hope it makes sense. It will make sense for those who is having problems with it In my case here, I had double trouble. The fresh new rubber isolation didn't let me open or close the sleeve relatively easily (like I remember it was, when I changed the lamp before). This made me doubt that I was placing the sleeve correctly (slit against the tab). So I had to open it again and again, to check what may have been wrong inside. And every opening or closing was very tough! I'm so happy that my UV/filter is working again! I wonder what the feedback is from the people who had it broken after 2 years of use? May be they didn't want to change parts? Like the sleeve broke and they considered the filter broken? A complete death for the filter is when the motor breaks, or a part that can't be changed or fixed breaks... It's a relatively simple piece of equipment. I don't see why its lifespan may be just two years. |
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Post by Carl on Feb 18, 2019 10:44:52 GMT -5
Silicone Lubricant is better as it does not absorb We have not had any feedback as to problems with lining up the tabs. I know I have forgotten a few times, but quickly realized and figured it out. The video is very helpful, especially since Steven who made it is a very patient person (while I am often more hurried) www.youtube.com/watch?v=mH0VaGry1yMAs for the 2 year lifespan, this is due to seals and often lack of maintenance. We've tested other submersible UVs and had one only average 6 months (which does provide much of a chance of good maintenance). The bottom line is by nature, submersible UVs are simply not as reliable as inline UVs, bit our testing has shown the model you have to be much better than others on the market. Carl |
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