Post by Carl on Nov 19, 2018 13:17:41 GMT -5
I've updated the Columnaris article again.
Here is an excerpt from the Parameters/Prevention Section:
"Parameters to Consider for Prevention and Treatment of Columnaris:
Please note that if ANY of these parameters are "off", it may be difficult or even impossible to effectively & completely cure a serious Columnaris infection even if the most effective Columnaris treatment is used (AAP Spectrogram & Wound Control/Merbromin topically)!
The results of NOT addressing these parameters and stressors is often a reoccurrence!!
Remember that Columnaris is a disease of opportunity, so even though one may have an otherwise well maintained aquarium, any of these stressors could make it easier for Columnaris to get a foothold in a compromised fish.
There is no mystery here based on my decades of experience, yet this seems to be a part of the Columnaris puzzle so often missed!
*Decrease Fish Load, Crowding Columnaris outbreaks have been shown in University studies to be prevalent in crowded, re-circulating systems, which is a reason I recommend against these types of systems even for fish stores.
This is also common in “African Cichlid” tanks or similar where there is constant stress due to constant battling for hierarchy.
*Ammonia, nitrites; should be 0 ppm
*Nitrates (long term exposure of nitrates over 80 ppm can reduce resistance to disease, under 40 is better)
*Lower your temperature; under 75 F (24 C) (only during treatment).
Goldfish and similar cooler water fish should always be kept under 80F (27C) whenever possible.
*pH (depending upon fish kept) Stability is more important than the actual pH. In other words, do NOT chase you pH, find a KH above 50 ppm and keep your pH stable at whatever pH you get, whether 6.5 or 7.5
* KH: generally a KH of 50 + (what is best here depends upon fish kept). This is related to pH and maintains pH stability via adequate carbonates
*Positive Ionic Composition of the Water & GH: this is a little more complex than this article will deal with, however this is related to both the GH and Redox.
In a nutshell MG++ (positive magnesium ions) and CA++ (positive calcium ions) play a part in lowering oxidative stress. However it is noteworthy that one can have too much of a good thing, as a high GH of 400+ can allow Columnaris more readily adhere to gill filaments, so just like many "beneficial" methods, correct dosing is important!
*Redox Balance; although often not generally a major concern for the average aquarist, it is important to understand when problems persist especially since advanced aquarium keeping research shows its importance in disease prevention. In particular, this is an important consideration for an aerobic bacterium such as Columnaris, since often other more obvious water parameters may be good while this one is not.
Redox balance is related to GH (although if all positively charges ions are lost from calcium and other minerals that make up GH, you can still have a higher GH of say 300 ppm and still have a poor Redox Balance).
But the point I want to make is that websites such as Wikipedia and many others are dead wrong to imply that "The bacteria can persist in water for up to 32 days when the hardness is 50 ppm or more" is a causative factor for Columnaris.
While Columnaris Bacterium certainly utilize these minerals, so do fish and to make the strange leap of thought to state any GH over 50 can lead to Columnaris (over 400 ppm might be a problem and definitely over 500 ppm is a problem). This is simply bad science, not to mention proves a lack of practical experience on the part of authors of these articles.
The fact is 50 ppm is a very low GH, even for many soft water fish and more importantly these minerals are essential for correct osmoregulation and a supplier of essential positive electrolytes necessary for fish immunity that Redox research has proven. It is noteworthy that these mineral cations play an important role in adhesion of Columnaris by reducing surface potential and repulsive forces (both positive and negative depending upon levels). So for an aquarium keeper to attempt to lower minerals and positive mineral ions is misguided at best.
What is often missed by those advocating soft water is that the soft water found naturally such as in the Amazon actually has these ESSENTIAL mineral Cations, albeit in low levels (just ask Discus authorities such as Marc Weiss).
HOWEVER often artificial soft water made from RO or DI water often lacks these mineral Cations in the amount needed to aid in fish osmoregulation and for Redox balance. Often rH tests will confirm the unhealthy numbers.
In the end, we have to remember that many pathogens such as Columnaris are often present, but it is building up the fish' immunity and lowering stressors that will be most beneficial, NOT attempting to drive out essential minerals unless truly at very high numbers."
Carl
Here is an excerpt from the Parameters/Prevention Section:
"Parameters to Consider for Prevention and Treatment of Columnaris:
Please note that if ANY of these parameters are "off", it may be difficult or even impossible to effectively & completely cure a serious Columnaris infection even if the most effective Columnaris treatment is used (AAP Spectrogram & Wound Control/Merbromin topically)!
The results of NOT addressing these parameters and stressors is often a reoccurrence!!
Remember that Columnaris is a disease of opportunity, so even though one may have an otherwise well maintained aquarium, any of these stressors could make it easier for Columnaris to get a foothold in a compromised fish.
There is no mystery here based on my decades of experience, yet this seems to be a part of the Columnaris puzzle so often missed!
*Decrease Fish Load, Crowding Columnaris outbreaks have been shown in University studies to be prevalent in crowded, re-circulating systems, which is a reason I recommend against these types of systems even for fish stores.
This is also common in “African Cichlid” tanks or similar where there is constant stress due to constant battling for hierarchy.
*Ammonia, nitrites; should be 0 ppm
*Nitrates (long term exposure of nitrates over 80 ppm can reduce resistance to disease, under 40 is better)
*Lower your temperature; under 75 F (24 C) (only during treatment).
Goldfish and similar cooler water fish should always be kept under 80F (27C) whenever possible.
*pH (depending upon fish kept) Stability is more important than the actual pH. In other words, do NOT chase you pH, find a KH above 50 ppm and keep your pH stable at whatever pH you get, whether 6.5 or 7.5
* KH: generally a KH of 50 + (what is best here depends upon fish kept). This is related to pH and maintains pH stability via adequate carbonates
*Positive Ionic Composition of the Water & GH: this is a little more complex than this article will deal with, however this is related to both the GH and Redox.
In a nutshell MG++ (positive magnesium ions) and CA++ (positive calcium ions) play a part in lowering oxidative stress. However it is noteworthy that one can have too much of a good thing, as a high GH of 400+ can allow Columnaris more readily adhere to gill filaments, so just like many "beneficial" methods, correct dosing is important!
*Redox Balance; although often not generally a major concern for the average aquarist, it is important to understand when problems persist especially since advanced aquarium keeping research shows its importance in disease prevention. In particular, this is an important consideration for an aerobic bacterium such as Columnaris, since often other more obvious water parameters may be good while this one is not.
Redox balance is related to GH (although if all positively charges ions are lost from calcium and other minerals that make up GH, you can still have a higher GH of say 300 ppm and still have a poor Redox Balance).
But the point I want to make is that websites such as Wikipedia and many others are dead wrong to imply that "The bacteria can persist in water for up to 32 days when the hardness is 50 ppm or more" is a causative factor for Columnaris.
While Columnaris Bacterium certainly utilize these minerals, so do fish and to make the strange leap of thought to state any GH over 50 can lead to Columnaris (over 400 ppm might be a problem and definitely over 500 ppm is a problem). This is simply bad science, not to mention proves a lack of practical experience on the part of authors of these articles.
The fact is 50 ppm is a very low GH, even for many soft water fish and more importantly these minerals are essential for correct osmoregulation and a supplier of essential positive electrolytes necessary for fish immunity that Redox research has proven. It is noteworthy that these mineral cations play an important role in adhesion of Columnaris by reducing surface potential and repulsive forces (both positive and negative depending upon levels). So for an aquarium keeper to attempt to lower minerals and positive mineral ions is misguided at best.
What is often missed by those advocating soft water is that the soft water found naturally such as in the Amazon actually has these ESSENTIAL mineral Cations, albeit in low levels (just ask Discus authorities such as Marc Weiss).
HOWEVER often artificial soft water made from RO or DI water often lacks these mineral Cations in the amount needed to aid in fish osmoregulation and for Redox balance. Often rH tests will confirm the unhealthy numbers.
In the end, we have to remember that many pathogens such as Columnaris are often present, but it is building up the fish' immunity and lowering stressors that will be most beneficial, NOT attempting to drive out essential minerals unless truly at very high numbers."
Carl