anti
Full Member
Posts: 139
|
Post by anti on Jul 14, 2017 16:17:54 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Jul 15, 2017 10:31:47 GMT -5
Have you applied Methylene Blue directly? This looks likeleither a primary sore caused by Aeromonas or a secondary infection of Aeromonas caused by parasites If the second, a fish fook slurry containing AAP General Cure might be a good idea Another hospital tank consideration is AAP Poly Guard or a combination of Furan 2/Kanaplex with ParaGuard Resource: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Seachem.html#polyguardI believe you have a UV Sterilizer, make sure the lamp is changed every six motnhs, although this would be too late for this issue Also make sure to follow the points laid out hre: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2016/09/how-to-treat-sick-fish.htmlCarl
|
|
|
Post by devonjohnsgard on Jul 15, 2017 13:06:49 GMT -5
Yes, agree with Carl, methylene needs to be applied by a swab.
|
|
anti
Full Member
Posts: 139
|
Post by anti on Jul 15, 2017 13:26:29 GMT -5
yes i have been applying meth blue directly. i will do a water chane and go with the furan 2/kanalex/paragurd slurry since i have those on hand. my parameters are what they always have. been (4 kh 8 gh, 250 DOC ) just to name a few. i check these weekly. i have excellent husbandry regime ( or i thought i did). did read your article and went through all the points though and dont see what i can be doing better. but obviously im missed something. even my oxy levels are good. I did aquire snails a few months back because i didnt bath a new plant but up to now ive welcomed them as a cleanup crew. i will be making a purchase from you soon, including polyguard. maybe its time to start adding a preventative instead of just relying on just good husbandry to care for these popup things. BTW thank you for your quick response and insight. it's always appreciated
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Jul 15, 2017 13:32:07 GMT -5
yes i have been applying meth blue directly. i will do a water chane and go with the furan 2/kanalex/paragurd slurry since i have those on hand. my parameters are what they always have. been (4 kh 8 gh, 250 DOC ) just to name a few. i check these weekly. i have excellent husbandry regime ( or i thought i did). did read your article and went through all the points though and dont see what i can be doing better. but obviously im missed something. even my oxy levels are good. I did aquire snails a few months back because i didnt bath a new plant but up to now ive welcomed them as a cleanup crew. i will be making a purchase from you soon, including polyguard. maybe its time to start adding a preventative instead of just relying on just good husbandry to care for these popup things Furan 2 and paraguard should NOT be fed in a fish food slurry (especially paraguard with can be toxic internally) Have you changed your UV lamp regularly? Carl
|
|
anti
Full Member
Posts: 139
|
Post by anti on Jul 15, 2017 13:36:21 GMT -5
yes abot 2-3 months back. i have two of them. not familiar, whenyou say slurry do you mean just mixing everything up and put in the tank at once for a period of time?
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Jul 15, 2017 13:42:22 GMT -5
|
|
anti
Full Member
Posts: 139
|
Post by anti on Jul 15, 2017 14:07:58 GMT -5
this might be a silly question but can or will the same trio of meds added to the tank be effective? I hate to waste meds on a fish that hasent eaten and it I see no signs of him doing so. at least not right now. i tried giving him metroplex for 3 days now with garlic and he just looks at me stupid. lol
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Jul 16, 2017 10:28:40 GMT -5
this might be a silly question but can or will the same trio of meds added to the tank be effective? I hate to waste meds on a fish that hasent eaten and it I see no signs of him doing so. at least not right now. i tried giving him metroplex for 3 days now with garlic and he just looks at me stupid. lol You make a good point! Personally I would give it a try with the three med combination. Unfortunately getting the fish to eat, it paramount as you noted. Have you added any new Discus lately? Make sure when you change UV lamps that you utilize HO lamps, as most now sold are lower output medium pressure UV lamps with about 1/4 of the UVC output Carl
|
|
anti
Full Member
Posts: 139
|
Post by anti on Jul 16, 2017 11:29:15 GMT -5
no new fish. I bought some uv light replacements from you 2 to 3 months back. I was hoping for level 2 sterilization with 2 UV's but I really dont know for sure. I just dont know how these things happen. I dont over manage but keep on top of things weekly. Tank is going great. A little healthy algae, plants growing like weeds. I guess it just happens no matter how healthy one can be. dunno. At first it looked like a small injury cause he had scales missing, but boy did it get infected quickly. It seems like every 6 months or thou one of them seem to get a little something. One thing I learned about Discus though, if something is wrong, ANYTHING, THEY WILL NOT EAT!!! That is the first tell tale sign for me.
|
|
anti
Full Member
Posts: 139
|
Post by anti on Jul 16, 2017 12:19:56 GMT -5
Carl I am thinking about starting him on a combo of furan 2, kanaplex, paraguard, and sulfaplex tomorrow. Sounds like too much. Maybe do without the paraguard. Here's the rub though, I just got finished a round of furan 2 and kanaplex combo that lasted a week. I dont want to over medicate and dont know if I should just with baths for a couple of days before doing this cocktail again. I read one of your articles that suggested that if a fish is not responding to meds; give it a 10 day break. I dont know if its too soon for that. your thoughts?
|
|
anti
Full Member
Posts: 139
|
Post by anti on Jul 17, 2017 8:31:30 GMT -5
Discus update. He started to be alot more active yesterday afternoon. The way they act when they are hungry. Feed him without meds. Didnt see him eat but This morning food gone. The white fugus spot is falling off whole (like a scab). Looks pretty raw underneath though. This changes things I think. Seachem website is interesting. wondering if I can do a kanaplex/sulfaplex food slurry instead of kanaplex/metroplex ; with furan2/paraguard in the tank. Since Ive been doing daily baths with metro/salt/paraguard the last two days, he seems to be more active in a good way.
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Jul 17, 2017 9:41:41 GMT -5
I would not recommend the kanaplex/sulfa mix as I have never found much success from sulfa product internally in fish. Kanaplex/metroplex or Neomycin/Metroplex is a better choice
Carl
|
|
anti
Full Member
Posts: 139
|
Post by anti on Jul 17, 2017 10:00:43 GMT -5
OK thanks. I was wondering why you never sold sulfa or mentioned it in your articles.
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Jul 17, 2017 19:16:25 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by childofiam on Jul 20, 2017 15:11:27 GMT -5
Greetings anti. I have a couple of suggestions for you that has worked very well for me. In my planted tank I have 1/2 inch of PFS as substrate and I stir it up every time right before a H2O change. I also lift up any rocks, driftwood as waste can get under stuff. I also take my driftwood out of the tank and do a 24 hour soak in a hydrogen peroxide bath at 1 qt of HP to 1 gallon of water. This safely kills any thing taking root in the wood. One thing missed is the biofilm that builds up in a aquarium. We clean the glass but seldom consider the filtering system. Completely clean your filter and tubing as biomass will build up inside of it and the tubing. I replace my tubing every month as tubing will hold on to biomass. You can see it being dumped into the water column after your filtering system has been down for maintenance. Watch your TDS's as this is a indication of the buildup of biomass. (DOC) included. Discus need very clean stable water as you know. Also, I learned from several professional Discus breeders to do a heat treatment every month. This is how I do it. At the first of the month I will raise the water temperature up to 96 deg, 36 deg Celsius for 4 days without feeding the fish, I use Celsius because you have more control, exp: Fahrenheit control boards inside the heater wait till temps drop 1 full degree before kicking the heater back on. I use a external controller that uses Celsius and my heaters are set to come on at .2 tenths drop in temp giving the environment more temperature stability, (I have to turn the heater dial all the way up so the heater can be controlled by a external controller). Anything harmful to your Discus will die off in the tank. Remove non-Discus fish before you do this. At the end of the 4 days turn temps back to 84 deg or 29 Celsius and feed after the temps come back down. This causes a huge growth rate to happen every time with my Discus. Research shows the water temps climb to 96 -98 degrees in the waters of the Amazon during drought times and as the fall raining season cools the water of the flooding Amazon river basin, food becomes readily available that causes growth spurts. As the Discus will be consuming anything you put in the tank... this is a great time to feed medicated food. I have not had any problems with sick Discus sense I started doing this. I thought...If the largest breeders of Discus are doing this than it must work, and it does. Getting tank temp's up there requires extra heaters and the tank covered with glass and heavy towels on top of that.
Richard
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Jul 20, 2017 16:58:07 GMT -5
Also, I learned from several professional Discus breeders to do a heat treatment every month. This is how I do it. At the first of the month I will raise the water temperature up to 96 deg, 36 deg Celsius for 4 days without feeding the fish, I use Celsius because you have more control, exp: Fahrenheit control boards inside the heater wait till temps drop 1 full degree before kicking the heater back on. I use a external controller that uses Celsius and my heaters are set to come on at .2 tenths drop in temp giving the environment more temperature stability, (I have to turn the heater dial all the way up so the heater can be controlled by a external controller). Anything harmful to your Discus will die off in the tank. Remove non-Discus fish before you do this. At the end of the 4 days turn temps back to 84 deg or 29 Celsius and feed after the temps come back down. Another caveat I would add to this method, as I have seen many persons also harm their fish with it when not done correctly and that is beside removing other fish, make sure your ammonia is at absolutely 0 total ammonia, bio load is low(as Richard noted) and aeration is very high Carl
|
|
|
Post by childofiam on Jul 21, 2017 8:02:17 GMT -5
Also, I learned from several professional Discus breeders to do a heat treatment every month. This is how I do it. At the first of the month I will raise the water temperature up to 96 deg, 36 deg Celsius for 4 days without feeding the fish, I use Celsius because you have more control, exp: Fahrenheit control boards inside the heater wait till temps drop 1 full degree before kicking the heater back on. I use a external controller that uses Celsius and my heaters are set to come on at .2 tenths drop in temp giving the environment more temperature stability, (I have to turn the heater dial all the way up so the heater can be controlled by a external controller). Anything harmful to your Discus will die off in the tank. Remove non-Discus fish before you do this. At the end of the 4 days turn temps back to 84 deg or 29 Celsius and feed after the temps come back down. Another caveat I would add to this method, as I have seen many persons also harm their fish with it when not done correctly and that is beside removing other fish, make sure your ammonia is at absolutely 0 total ammonia, bio load is low(as Richard noted) and aeration is very high Carl I agree with Carl 100%. I failed to mention that you need to do a very large water water change before you start this process. By not feeding the fish, they will only produce small amounts of wast. Richard
|
|
anti
Full Member
Posts: 139
|
Post by anti on Jul 24, 2017 11:53:16 GMT -5
Greetings anti. I have a couple of suggestions for you that has worked very well for me. In my planted tank I have 1/2 inch of PFS as substrate and I stir it up every time right before a H2O change. I also lift up any rocks, driftwood as waste can get under stuff. I also take my driftwood out of the tank and do a 24 hour soak in a hydrogen peroxide bath at 1 qt of HP to 1 gallon of water. This safely kills any thing taking root in the wood. One thing missed is the biofilm that builds up in a aquarium. We clean the glass but seldom consider the filtering system. Completely clean your filter and tubing as biomass will build up inside of it and the tubing. I replace my tubing every month as tubing will hold on to biomass. You can see it being dumped into the water column after your filtering system has been down for maintenance. Watch your TDS's as this is a indication of the buildup of biomass. (DOC) included. Discus need very clean stable water as you know. Also, I learned from several professional Discus breeders to do a heat treatment every month. This is how I do it. At the first of the month I will raise the water temperature up to 96 deg, 36 deg Celsius for 4 days without feeding the fish, I use Celsius because you have more control, exp: Fahrenheit control boards inside the heater wait till temps drop 1 full degree before kicking the heater back on. I use a external controller that uses Celsius and my heaters are set to come on at .2 tenths drop in temp giving the environment more temperature stability, (I have to turn the heater dial all the way up so the heater can be controlled by a external controller). Anything harmful to your Discus will die off in the tank. Remove non-Discus fish before you do this. At the end of the 4 days turn temps back to 84 deg or 29 Celsius and feed after the temps come back down. This causes a huge growth rate to happen every time with my Discus. Research shows the water temps climb to 96 -98 degrees in the waters of the Amazon during drought times and as the fall raining season cools the water of the flooding Amazon river basin, food becomes readily available that causes growth spurts. As the Discus will be consuming anything you put in the tank... this is a great time to feed medicated food. I have not had any problems with sick Discus sense I started doing this. I thought...If the largest breeders of Discus are doing this than it must work, and it does. Getting tank temp's up there requires extra heaters and the tank covered with glass and heavy towels on top of that. Richard
|
|
anti
Full Member
Posts: 139
|
Post by anti on Jul 24, 2017 11:59:51 GMT -5
Interesting childofiam. I always wondered what the cloudy water coming out of my returns was when I kicked everything on after maintenance. just did a major vac job and 50% on H2O. I usually dont vac much with all the plants that I have. I figured the root system of taking care of things. At least thats the way it look on the testing side. TDS usually hovers around 250 in the tank. Water prep chems (wondershell and alkaline buffer) isnt too far from that, maybe 190. Even my best husbandry I couldnt hit 200. I dont know if I am setup for the heat thing though
|
|