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Post by chuckprivi on Jun 16, 2020 19:27:58 GMT -5
Chuck, If the aquarium was set up in the last year, there's a good chance of the aquarium getting algae. You need the light for the corals, which means the algae will come. Ramping the lights may help, but it will just be that much less light the corals would get. Here's some tips to make sure your taking care of as algae can have many causes. www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2008/04/aquarium-algae.htmlI would also consider GFO in a reaction chamber and a UV sterilizer rated for the aquarium size, but running at a fast flow rate. This fast rate will keep up with the reproduction of the algae which is quick. Besides Devon's answer, I will add that the Standard Controller would suffice. OK, I read the algae post along with a zillion others. I’m running two AquaBeam 2000 tiles on a 21 inch deep aquarium for about 9 hours per day at full power. Based on Carl’s algae post, that seems like too much of a good thing. I’m still wondering if ONE standard controller would be the best bang for the buck since I suspect that I need to reduce the output power for my application. Maybe running at 50 to 60 % for 12 hours per day would keep the corals happy without promoting nuisance algae?
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Post by Carl on Jun 17, 2020 17:09:48 GMT -5
You mention a 21" deep aquarium, what are the other dimensions?
A Standard controller can only manage one 2000 tile, but you could potentially have one lead from each light go into this controller and the other lead to a power supply then a standard grounded timer
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Post by chuckprivi on Jun 17, 2020 19:09:38 GMT -5
You mention a 21" deep aquarium, what are the other dimensions? A Standard controller can only manage one 2000 tile, but you could potentially have one lead from each light go into this controller and the other lead to a power supply then a standard grounded timer Not sure where my reply went, so here goes again... I just measured again and it’s actually 24 inch deep, 48 inch long and 12.5 inch wide. I got two tiles to cover the length and the 2000 model to cover the depth. Still wondering if there is too much power though? Interesting suggestion on the controller. I run the two tiles off of two Apex outlets for timing and to shut them off if the temperature exceeds 82. I would rather not spend another $300 or more just to control the light output. Especially if it doesn’t work!
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Post by Carl on Jun 18, 2020 19:43:55 GMT -5
You really only need two tiles for an aquarium of these dimensions. The 2000 id better for depths over 22" while the 1500s work for all dimensions under. The formula as per the web page is .8 watt per gallon for tanks under 22" depth. With your approximately 60gallon aquarium means 48 watts of AquaRay light energy is needed for a reef aquarium Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquaRayLEDLighting.html
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jun 30, 2020 11:45:22 GMT -5
You really only need two tiles for an aquarium of these dimensions. The 2000 id better for depths over 22" while the 1500s work for all dimensions under. The formula as per the web page is .8 watt per gallon for tanks under 22" depth. With your approximately 60gallon aquarium means 48 watts of AquaRay light energy is needed for a reef aquarium Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquaRayLEDLighting.htmlCarl is correct. Just two would be a lot of power for most all corals, expect some hard ones. Though they could be placed right under the light. I've seen algae with these lighter light conditions as well in the first year. I would still look into a UV or GFO.
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