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Post by childofiam on Apr 2, 2016 10:59:28 GMT -5
Recalibrating My ORP meter made a difference in readings. My 10 am reading dropped from 265 to 257. I have noticed that the ORP increases as the day grows older. The ORP will increase 35 - 40 points every 4 hrs. After the lights are off and CO2 is no longer injected the ORP begins to drop till morning when everything comes on. Now that I can rely on correct readings thanks to Devon and AAP information, I will begin again charting PH, ORP, TDS and RH. My wife picked me up a Graft Composition book so I can Graft the daily readings.
Richard
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Apr 2, 2016 14:11:10 GMT -5
I fired up my RO unit this afternoon and WOW... I did not have to flush the unit as I did before the Iron filter addition. The TDS started out at 9 and after about 5 minutes it was down to 2 TDS's Devon, thanks for the ORP Info. It was unclear weather I calibrated at 250 or 350 because it was hard to understand your northern accent.... I'm a southern boy who has lost his accent but still have to talk realllll slooowwww to his kin folk or they don't understand me. LOL Sorry about that. This is a hard one, cause I have sooo much to say and I try to keep the videos short. I don't like 7 mins videos, which I normally will get when I start talking, so then I try to cut the video into 4 mins, which really speeds up things. Sorry...plus Oregon folk are rated the fastest talkers in the US...So, it's me... I have to talk real fast at my other job, where I work with kids...Loose their attention any other way. I reconfigured my filtering system today to remove one pump from inside the tank. I moved the FSB inline with the Other two filters. It goes like this:Inlet- Sponge pre-filters to FSB to Sunsun 304b to Fuval to V200 UV to discharge. Video to come... Richard PS... Didn't think about driving out the O2 from the FSB with the CO2. I broke the plastic elbow today so I have put the defuser disk back in for now. Let us know how it goes with the FSB filter in front. We've always had them after the canister. I wondered how much the FSB would be effected by the co2...some test would have to be ran.
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Post by childofiam on Apr 2, 2016 14:48:31 GMT -5
I fired up my RO unit this afternoon and WOW... I did not have to flush the unit as I did before the Iron filter addition. The TDS started out at 9 and after about 5 minutes it was down to 2 TDS's Devon, thanks for the ORP Info. It was unclear weather I calibrated at 250 or 350 because it was hard to understand your northern accent.... I'm a southern boy who has lost his accent but still have to talk realllll slooowwww to his kin folk or they don't understand me. LOL Sorry about that. This is a hard one, cause I have sooo much to say and I try to keep the videos short. I don't like 7 mins videos, which I normally will get when I start talking, so then I try to cut the video into 4 mins, which really speeds up things. Sorry...plus Oregon folk are rated the fastest talkers in the US...So, it's me... I have to talk real fast at my other job, where I work with kids...Loose their attention any other way. I reconfigured my filtering system today to remove one pump from inside the tank. I moved the FSB inline with the Other two filters. It goes like this:Inlet- Sponge pre-filters to FSB to Sunsun 304b to Fuval to V200 UV to discharge. Video to come... Richard PS... Didn't think about driving out the O2 from the FSB with the CO2. I broke the plastic elbow today so I have put the defuser disk back in for now. Let us know how it goes with the FSB filter in front. We've always had them after the canister. I wondered how much the FSB would be effected by the co2...some test would have to be ran. I used a Rio 1100 to power the FSB so it went: Pre sponge filters (Hydro Sponge Filter #5 COMBO) then Rio 100 pump, then FSB (Model #1000 Filter). I just removed the Rio from pushing water through the FSB to pulling the water through the FSB with the canister filters. After the FSB cycled I have not had any NH3 or NO2, "Test kit Seachem" at all in the water column. My canister filters starting with the SunSun; medium sponge top to bottom. Fuval; fine sponge top to bottom. I also have a FSB "Model #600 Filter" to use as a reaction chamber with carbon, Purigen or NPX Bioplastics just in case I drop the FSB, mounted with a Rio pump, directly into the tank and run as needed for spikes or removing meds. One of the reasons I would like to have a O2 meter is to be able to run O2 test before and after canisters. I have considered the loss of sand from the FSB that would end up in the SunSun. Sand would have to travel through 4 stages of medium sponge before it would enter the propeller area. In the past smaller sand particles have made it into the 2nd stage but I have never seen sand in the 3ed or 4th stage so Maybe I am safe. When I find a sponge as fine as the Hydro sponged to fit the SunSun tray then 4th tray will have a fine filter. I wish that there where Hydro filters mad for the SunSun canister. Would buy them in a heartbeat! Richard
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Post by Carl on Apr 3, 2016 10:22:16 GMT -5
To be clear, the FSB filter is not "in the loop" with the canister filter(s)?
Carl
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Post by childofiam on Apr 3, 2016 20:31:24 GMT -5
To be clear, the FSB filter is not "in the loop" with the canister filter(s)? Carl The FSB is in the loop with the canister filters. I plain on shooting this in a video in the next few days. Richard
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Post by childofiam on Apr 6, 2016 13:36:11 GMT -5
I have been trying to get rid of pond snails that came with my last set of purchased plants. I saw more today and so I opened up my canister filters and the Fluval was full of them again but the Sunsun had none at all. I think that the small UV built into the Sunsun drives them out or kills them. I just removed the Fluval from the filtering System and placed the fine foam filter media from the Fluval in the Sunsun. I was already going to remove the Fluval because when the power goes out and then comes back on the Sunsun blows water past the Fluval O-Ring until the water pressure evens out through the System. My water reading today where; NH3 = 0, NO2 = 0, NO3 = 15 It has been 10 days sense I took readings with no change except the NO3 went from 10ppm to 15ppm. I have been doing 20 gallon H2O changes twice a week to bring down the KH and GH to KH 71.6 and GH 107.4 I am almost there with a KH of 71.6 and a GH of 143.2 I am also holding a stable PH of 7.0 at 8 am and 6.8 at 8 pm. (My CO2 comes on at 8am and shuts down at 6pm)
I am also seeing root and leaf growth on the Anubis again with no signs of Diatoms of the green slime algae present.
Richard
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Post by childofiam on Apr 7, 2016 16:37:54 GMT -5
I didn't want to start a new thread for this question so Ill ask it here. Does anyone know how long Frog Moss live under water?
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Post by childofiam on Apr 8, 2016 9:39:05 GMT -5
I didn't want to start a new thread for this question so Ill ask it here. Does anyone know how long Frog Moss live under water? Also need light requirement for Frog moss, High or low. I have attached the Frog Moss to a piece of driftwood half submerged in tank. It should receive plenty of water from the saturated driftwood but I will mist the moss down daily. I also placed a Water Iris under the moss as the roots will continue to grow in the water column underneath. Richard
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Apr 8, 2016 11:59:24 GMT -5
It does not last under water. It will turn brown and fall apart. I've always used it in my filter. I'm thinking your idea above the water is great and I'm sure it doesn't take a lot to make it grow.
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Post by childofiam on Apr 9, 2016 19:38:08 GMT -5
I purchased a FSB 600 for the "Just in case" situations I seem to always run into. I just did a major tank clean. Scrubbed down the inside glass with a Wonder Shell. It has been about two months sense I have had to do this. The Wonder Shell really helps with things building up on the glass, now saying this... I have had to clean the glass with a cloth from time to time but it was just a quick wipe down and sparkling clean came back. For some reason the glass just stays much cleaner with the Wonder Shell scrub. I also cleaned the sand and moved things around. Removed all the driftwood and cleaned the pre filters, Hydro Sponge filters. As you can see the water column has a lot of floaties floating around. I just drop the FSB into the tank and CaBoom... water will be crystal clean in the morning. I pull the FSB out and drain the water then dry out the carbon for the next time I need it.
I hope you enjoy the video...
Richard
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Post by childofiam on Apr 11, 2016 11:48:19 GMT -5
This is a Pink Lilly that has been in my 75 for a year now. It has only once sent runners to the surface but never bloomed. I had not very good lights (National Geographic led lights) and the lily eventually stopped sending runners to the surface and just produced enough leaves to stay alive. It requires 6-8 hours of full sun to bloom. I decided to remove it from the substrate and stick it to the glass just under the surface to see what will happen under the TMC AquaGro 600 Ultima lights. Lily's are a heavy root reader so if this works then it will help clean the water column. Richard
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Post by childofiam on Apr 11, 2016 13:01:35 GMT -5
Just a half hour ago I was looking at my fish and then a few seconds ago WAM CaBam.... Cory Eggs. Now that I have the egg eaters in their own tank these might just make it...
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Apr 11, 2016 13:19:07 GMT -5
Interesting use of the sand filter. Thinking out of the box. I like the emergency prevention.
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Post by childofiam on Apr 11, 2016 14:02:50 GMT -5
Interesting use of the sand filter. Thinking out of the box. I like the emergency prevention. I also have, NPX Bioplastics, Purigen as well as the Nirox carbon. After I removed the FSB I rinsed the carbon off and played out on a reusable pet potty pad and the carbon was dry as a bone the next morning. Carbon life of about a month in the filter so if I use it for a day or two I figured that it would still be good for 30 uses or less. It did make a difference as the water was crystal clean the next morning. Any thoughts of this practice is very welcome. I can also drop this in my pond if problems arise in mid summer as they usually do. Speaking of my pond... Yesterday I did some work on the PVC tubing going to and from the TMC UV Filter. There was a build up of green algae inside of the PVC between the pump and the UV, but after the UV there was no algae at all. This is another fact in my face that the last uv did very little for my pond and the TMC is a working, algae killing machine. Richard
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Post by childofiam on Apr 12, 2016 14:28:40 GMT -5
I will put this here because I didn't want to place it on Rogers tank blog. Carl if you want it in another place thats fine. Clay pot GH, KH test; Placed a shard of clay pot in a container with Distilled H2O 4/12 GH = 0, KH= 0, TDS = 3, PH = 5.8 Richard
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Post by childofiam on Apr 13, 2016 8:11:00 GMT -5
I noticed that my test tube became spotted with mineral build-up, thinking that this build-up can effect test results with KH and GH I cleaned the test tubes by soaking them in a white vinegar solution. Just a warning... the Vinegar removes all of the markings like the inaccurate 5mL line as well as mineral build-up. I have a high quality gram scale +/- .01 accuracy that I weight out the test water because API test tubes are off as the 5mL line does not measure 5mL from tube to tube. API stated that this is no problem with the test. I was taught that if it calls for 5mL then... you need 5mL for accuracy. Just a note for anyone that decides to clean their test tubs in vinegar...
Richard
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Post by childofiam on Apr 13, 2016 8:14:40 GMT -5
Day 2 Clay pot test after 17 hours
KH =0, GH =0, PH =7.2, TDS =20 Interesting that it changed the PH I figured it would effect the TDS but I didn't thing it would have such a drastic effect on PH
Richard
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Apr 13, 2016 14:33:57 GMT -5
Surprised as well. This pots are very popular. So they do act as an Alkaline. V.e.r.y interesting. I'm sure people dont see the effect due to the acids...
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Post by childofiam on Apr 14, 2016 7:37:55 GMT -5
Clay pot test after 40 hours KH =0, GH =0, PH =7.6, TDS =24
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Post by childofiam on Apr 14, 2016 7:40:52 GMT -5
This is a Pink Lilly that has been in my 75 for a year now. It has only once sent runners to the surface but never bloomed. I had not very good lights (National Geographic led lights) and the lily eventually stopped sending runners to the surface and just produced enough leaves to stay alive. It requires 6-8 hours of full sun to bloom. I decided to remove it from the substrate and stick it to the glass just under the surface to see what will happen under the TMC AquaGro 600 Ultima lights. Lily's are a heavy root reader so if this works then it will help clean the water column. Richard I ended up cutting off the old leaves, the lily is putting on a new leaf every other day now. This is much faster than the past of a new leaf every two weeks. Richard
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