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Post by Suzie Q (Lori) on Sept 3, 2015 12:31:42 GMT -5
Carl, I really don't understand gH/kH. I know what it is/means, and why fish need it, but what is a good level...ummmm....is level the right word? I am reading the thread about the 2 betta. I had that same issue BEFORE I got my softener. I was/am very concerned about my fish and the water quality. As you know, I had the issue with my fry surviving and thought the RAINSOFT softener would help. Also, my gH/kH had been hight (10 drops with one and around 20 with the other...I forget which was which). Anyway...my gH and kH both take 1 drop to turn now. I can bypass the unit for the fish, and what I have thought about doing is to bypass the cold only (so the hot water heater doesn't get filled with hard water). What would run through the lines would be softened, but eventually be hard/regular tap water. What gH/kH am I looking to hit??? Am I making any sense?
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Sept 3, 2015 12:38:46 GMT -5
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rogierfvv
Full Member
3rd time around aquarium keeper, observer, learner
Posts: 84
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Post by rogierfvv on Sept 5, 2016 17:50:43 GMT -5
Little action here... but important topic... I am trying to hit about 50-100 for my KH (Alkalinity). And lately I have started to use the Hanna Instruments Alkalinity tester, what a delight. In my efforts to try to figure out how KH goes down during the week and come up with a decent schedule for replenishing it, it helps a lot to have more accurate readings, and less guesswork. All in all, the API test proved reasonable though. My first test gave me 50 ppm with API and 60 PPM with the HI tester. This equipment is easy to use, but you need to be really meticulous, however, the payoff in terms of reliable data is significant.
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Sept 6, 2016 14:44:55 GMT -5
Little action here... but important topic... I am trying to hit about 50-100 for my KH (Alkalinity). And lately I have started to use the Hanna Instruments Alkalinity tester, what a delight. In my efforts to try to figure out how KH goes down during the week and come up with a decent schedule for replenishing it, it helps a lot to have more accurate readings, and less guesswork. All in all, the API test proved reasonable though. My first test gave me 50 ppm with API and 60 PPM with the HI tester. This equipment is easy to use, but you need to be really meticulous, however, the payoff in terms of reliable data is significant. Thanks for the update. All these meters are hobbyist grade, so they will vary a little, but give a good idea.
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Post by Carl on Sept 6, 2016 16:24:32 GMT -5
Carl, I really don't understand gH/kH. I know what it is/means, and why fish need it, but what is a good level...ummmm....is level the right word? I am reading the thread about the 2 betta. I had that same issue BEFORE I got my softener. I was/am very concerned about my fish and the water quality. As you know, I had the issue with my fry surviving and thought the RAINSOFT softener would help. Also, my gH/kH had been hight (10 drops with one and around 20 with the other...I forget which was which). Anyway...my gH and kH both take 1 drop to turn now. I can bypass the unit for the fish, and what I have thought about doing is to bypass the cold only (so the hot water heater doesn't get filled with hard water). What would run through the lines would be softened, but eventually be hard/regular tap water. What gH/kH am I looking to hit??? Am I making any sense? Without repeating what others have stated too much, I would shoot for 50 ppm KH and 150-200 ppm GH The problem may occur that the softwater may enough sodium ions (Anions) to still override the calcium and other necessary ions (Cations). Since you are using only the hot water for the softwater source, this may dilute the sodium Anions considerably. This may also vary by season since you would use more hot water in the Winter versus summer to pre-warm water prior to a water change Carl
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