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Post by angelminx on Sept 4, 2014 17:52:00 GMT -5
I have a couple of questions about glass canopies.
First, while I was cleaning the canopies yesterday I noticed that one of the ones from the 55G is coming apart at the hinge. Is there any way to fix this without having to buy a new one?
Second, does anyone have any suggestions where to get them? When I got the tanks, they came with the black plastic hoods, because glass canopies weren't "the thing" back then, so I had to buy them separately. I've had to replace them a few times over the years because of the hinges. The only 2 options I have are Aqueon and Marineland, both are listed at 23 1/8" wide for the '24" openings'. The 10Gs are listed at 19 1/2 and 19 1/4, respectively. The opening on my 55G is 23" and on my 10G is 19 1/3" On the 10G I have the Marineland canopy, and it "fits", it is just easily knocked off balance and into the tank. For the 55g the glass rests on the inner lip on one side, and the outer frame on the opposite side (for both openings).
Lastly, does anyone have any suggestions for cleaning the deposits off of the canopies? With the 10G I get a lot of "splash" from the bubbles from the sponge filter, so that side is always wet. The 55G I constantly have to battle to keep it clean so the light isn't obstructed getting to the tank. Also, as to cleaning, I have theses streaks on the aquarium glass that I can't seem to get rid of. I have tried just water; vinegar; and I also have Safe & Easy aquarium cleaner (that I have had for a long time--it even has "Doc Wellfish' picture on the bottle). Nothing seems to get rid of the streaks. I may seem fine for a while, but after a few minutes the streaks show up again.
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Sept 4, 2014 18:00:04 GMT -5
I have a couple of questions about glass canopies. First, while I was cleaning the canopies yesterday I noticed that one of the ones from the 55G is coming apart at the hinge. Is there any way to fix this without having to buy a new one? Second, does anyone have any suggestions where to get them? When I got the tanks, they came with the black plastic hoods, because glass canopies weren't "the thing" back then, so I had to buy them separately. I've had to replace them a few times over the years because of the hinges. The only 2 options I have are Aqueon and Marineland, both are listed at 23 1/8" wide for the '24" openings'. The 10Gs are listed at 19 1/2 and 19 1/4, respectively. The opening on my 55G is 23" and on my 10G is 19 1/3" On the 10G I have the Marineland canopy, and it "fits", it is just easily knocked off balance and into the tank. For the 55g the glass rests on the inner lip on one side, and the outer frame on the opposite side (for both openings). Lastly, does anyone have any suggestions for cleaning the deposits off of the canopies? With the 10G I get a lot of "splash" from the bubbles from the sponge filter, so that side is always wet. The 55G I constantly have to battle to keep it clean so the light isn't obstructed getting to the tank. Also, as to cleaning, I have theses streaks on the aquarium glass that I can't seem to get rid of. I have tried just water; vinegar; and I also have Safe & Easy aquarium cleaner (that I have had for a long time--it even has "Doc Wellfish' picture on the bottle). Nothing seems to get rid of the streaks. I may seem fine for a while, but after a few minutes the streaks show up again. Here is a video Carl to for a silicone hinge repair. Pretty popular video. You could always try a razor blade and glass cleaner for cleaning the glass.
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Post by Carl on Sept 4, 2014 18:51:05 GMT -5
You are limited as to what you can safely use around an aquarium, since fumes or accidental spills could be disastrous for your aquarium pets Often a simple razor blade is all I used. I might suggest focusing on the cause, by adding a plastic strip or something more to the back so that you have a complete seal on the top of your aquarium. Sometimes the problem is not at all the top, rather water coming up and under the rim via wicking and a poor seal under the rim where the glass meets the plastic trim. The problem is that silicone does not adhere well to plastic or any petroleum/oil based product, so eventually this will happen. This can be fixed by removal of silicone and then resealing the entire top rim. Further Information: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2007/03/aquarium-silicone.htmlCarl
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Post by angelminx on Sept 5, 2014 1:33:32 GMT -5
Thanks for the video, Devon. I'll get some silicone one of these days and try it.
Carl, how would you recommend removing the plastic hinge on the canopies so this could be done? Also, do you have a suggestion for cutting the little plastic piece that comes with the canopies for the back section? I never had any luck--the plastic is so hard to cut--so I just set them aside. I think I still have them somewhere, but if not, what would you suggest I get to use in its place?
Thanks guys!
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Post by Carl on Sept 5, 2014 10:28:15 GMT -5
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Post by parker002 on Sept 16, 2014 10:07:42 GMT -5
If you are forced to buy replacements, I would strongly encourage you to NOT buy glass. The last time I looked at glass canopies for my 55G, they were $25-30 each and I needed two. I went to my local glass cutter/window replacement store and had them cut two sheets of Lexan to fit. They cost me $15 each. Why Lexan? - It's durable. You pretty much can't break it. It certainly won't break if you drop it or something the same way glass will.
- It allows MUCH more full spectrum light through. Carl can explain better but if you've invested in high dollar LED fixtures, you owe it to yourself to maximize their effect and Lexan does that.
- You can have it cut EXACTLY to fit your tanks and because it's essentially plastic, you can cut it yourself with relatively little danger.
- It weighs almost nothing. It's much easier to work with than glass, especially when cleaning it or the tank.
Of all the things I've tinkered with over the last few years, Lexan covers are one of things I would recommend MOST.
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Post by angelminx on Sept 16, 2014 15:10:53 GMT -5
Thanks, Parker! I'll have to look and see if there's a window replacement place anywhere around here. There isn't anything near-by that I know of, because the owner of the one place that was, died a year or so ago and the company never re-opened. Any suggestions on how to find some? Is there a company name of any chains that you know of (and how they compare to the small "local" stores)? Also, is Lexan easy to come by?
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Post by Carl on Sept 16, 2014 15:17:55 GMT -5
Good Point Parker Here is a snip from my "Aquarium Lighting Article; Light Penetration Section": IMPORTANT- Another point about lighting in general is that lower wave lengths of light such as UVA do not penetrate glass well or even acrylic. I recommend direct lighting (best), quartz or polycarbonate (Lexan) where UVA is essential. Just make sure to clean your bulbs or polycarbonate tops regularly to prevent build up that will block light. Even though infrared will penetrate glass, it will not penetrate dirty glass with algae or hard water deposits on it, so keep your aquarium cover clean for any tank where lighting is important such as FW plants or Reef Aquariums.
Here is a very basic breakdown of UV blocking potential:
Glass- about 60% of UV will be blocked Acrylic- about 40% Polycarbonate- about 8-10% (this is what I use/recommend when a lid was necessary) Quartz- about .5-2%Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Lighting.html#penetrationCarl
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Sept 16, 2014 16:53:17 GMT -5
I need me some Lexan
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Post by parker002 on Sept 17, 2014 11:39:26 GMT -5
Lexan is available in most of your big box hardware stores, the issue is that they normally won't cut it for you and it's not really easy to cut yourself.
The only issue I have with mine, as Carl noted, is that they tend to foster algae growth so they have to be cleaned regularly. And you have to be careful because although Lexan is extremely durable it will scratch very easily.
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