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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jul 19, 2014 13:37:26 GMT -5
ah angelmix, I'm sorry for all the troubles. If I lived close by, I would just come fix it for free.
Have you tried adjustable pliers to tighten the elbow? Or do you think that wont help cause it's already so tight?
Those 90 degree hose barbs, you should be able to get at any hardware store. You could check there and not have to pay for shipping.
Are you able to get a good picture (big and up close) to show what you are dealing with here. We might be able to have more suggestions.
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Post by Carl on Jul 21, 2014 10:33:20 GMT -5
Angelminx. Sorry you continue to have issues. Tension should not cause leaks, otherwise I would have had 100s of leaky aquarium set ups by now I really think you need to go back to square one and set it up exactly how I show in the picture from the website. Here is the picture again: The purpose of this set up in this picture is simplicity. From how your aquarium is set up, including the Filstar, there should be NO reason to have any 90 degree turns in your tubing. Servicing of your filter should be as easy as unplugging the Rio pump and disconnecting the canister filter so as to go to the sink. The UV should not need to be fussed with at all until the bulb change in 6 months. Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/TMCUVSterilizer.htmlCarl
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Post by angelminx on Jul 22, 2014 2:08:23 GMT -5
Carl,
I'm thinking of getting some new tubing so I can extend the distance from the intake tube from the aquarium to the XP2--so that I can move the XP2 back towards the center of the tank (where it was before, when I just had the XP) so I can maybe have a little more maneuvering room when reaching under the tank. Right now the setup is done with the XP2 on the far right side, with the shorter distance from the tank to the XP2, placing the intake on the far right. The long section of tubing is from the Vecton to the universal return, so that it will reach the far left side of the tank. Should I lengthen the tubing from the XP2 to the Vecton so that I can (?)aviod the tubing kinking there again? I have the 5/8" tubing that I bought from you, but it is TOO small to attatch to the XP's quick disconnect valve or the XP's intake pipe (maybe I'm not heating it up enough). I still have some of the XP's 16mm tubing, but not enough for the length I need. What adapter would you suggest? If I'm NOT heating it up enough (I've used Vaseline to lubricate the intake pipe) how long should I do it for? I don't want to heat it up too much.
Thanks again for you patience.
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jul 22, 2014 9:31:03 GMT -5
This is completely up to you. I don't know if it will help with the leaking issues, but you will be doing maintenance on this tank for a while, so you want to do what you can to make it easier. The hose barb adapters would work and when heating the tubing, you do it until it becomes flexible. Do it about 2 inches up the tubing. www.americanaquariumproducts.com/PlumbingParts.html
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Post by Carl on Jul 22, 2014 11:51:39 GMT -5
Angelminx;
Just to make sure my memory was not bad and I was giving you bad advice, I went ahead and pulled 5/8” ID tubing and connected it to the valves of a Filstar we have here.
It is not an easy fit if not heated, HOWEVER with just some minor lubrication with Petroleum Jelly followed by heating the tubing until soft & pliable (& also quite hot to the touch), I had no problem slipping this on to the Filstar.
So my advice is to get enough of this tubing so as to not have any tight areas, maybe 10 feet. This should resolve any issues and not require any additional elbows or connects and be about as simple as the picture I provided
Carl
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Post by angelminx on Jul 22, 2014 17:42:35 GMT -5
Thanks, Carl.
I have a couple inches short of 5' of the 5/8" tubing right now, so I'll do what I can with it, and then order more next month. I do have a question about the length of the tubing, though. Doesn't the flow-level (or is it head presure), and thereby the effectinveness of the filter/UV, become affected by the length of tubing used, or does that only have to do with vertical length?
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Post by Carl on Jul 22, 2014 19:21:02 GMT -5
Thanks, Carl. I have a couple inches short of 5' of the 5/8" tubing right now, so I'll do what I can with it, and then order more next month. I do have a question about the length of the tubing, though. Doesn't the flow-level (or is it head presure), and thereby the effectinveness of the filter/UV, become affected by the length of tubing used, or does that only have to do with vertical length? Vertical length affects head pressure the most, however length will still have some affect. However the amount you need to do a good job that does not cause you so much grief is not going to add much to head pressure Reference: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2011/09/head-pressure-in-aquarium-and-pond.htmlFrom the above article: "(2) Horizontal: There are not 100% accurate formulas that I have found for measuring horizontal head pressure, other than the very complicated Bernoulli's Equation. Reference: Bernoulli's Equation
However both in my observations and other reading it is safe to say that horizontal head pressure equals a vertical run of .25 to .4 times its length. "Carl
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Post by angelminx on Jul 27, 2014 19:06:40 GMT -5
Hi, I'm back. I've been fairly busy the last few days, but yesterday I tried re-working the system from scratch. I hung the unit from the the front of the tank (turning the XP base around so that it was like I was working from the back of the tank) and measured out the tubing, connecting everything a section at a time. I think I've got the leak fixed. I set a timer, and checked everything (UV not plugged in) after it had been running for an hour. There was a little bit of water beading up from where the tubing attatched to the intake pipe (from the XP parts), and some slight dripping from the cap used for priming the XP2. I've never had any leaking from the cap before, so I made sure I had it tight (it was), but it still leaked from there. I put one of the XP's clamps on where the tubing connected to the pipe, and wound some teflon tape onto the pipe before re-attatching the cap. I wiped everything down, and checked it again after another hour, and didn't notice any leaking. So I hooked everything up on the back of the tank.
A few hours later, when I went back into the room to get something, I glanced under the tank and, on the right side--where the return pipe is located--it looked like there might have been a leak because the foot of the back leg on the tank stand looked wet. I moved things and tried to lean down and feel if the floor was wet, but I couldn't quite reach that spot (awkward) no matter what angle I tried. So I unplugged the Rio, and turned the little 5" fan onto the area and left it on till after church this morning. Then I laid down some paper towels as best I could, and plugged the Rio back in. So far it doesn't look like the towels are wet.
Now that THAT problem "is fixed", I've got another one. I plugged the Vecton in 2 different times last night--once after dark--and again a little while ago, and the UV light won't come on. When I first set the system up, I checked the Vecton out by plugging it in for a couple minutes after dark, and the hosetails glowed like they were supposed to, but now they don't. I tried plugging it in where both the heater and the HOB are plugged in (although they are all plugged in to the same surge-protector power strip) and it didn't work from them either. I unplugged the Vecton again, for now, and just have the Rio running. Did I do something wrong I don't know about?
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jul 28, 2014 8:42:15 GMT -5
Now that THAT problem "is fixed", I've got another one. I plugged the Vecton in 2 different times last night--once after dark--and again a little while ago, and the UV light won't come on. When I first set the system up, I checked the Vecton out by plugging it in for a couple minutes after dark, and the hosetails glowed like they were supposed to, but now they don't. I tried plugging it in where both the heater and the HOB are plugged in (although they are all plugged in to the same surge-protector power strip) and it didn't work from them either. I unplugged the Vecton again, for now, and just have the Rio running. Did I do something wrong I don't know about? Good job on the hard work. Sometime the Vecton tail ends can come loose if there is a lot of movement. Take the lid off. I think there's like 3 screws and push both sides onto the end of the UV bulb. That's most likely the issue. Let us know if that gets it to light.
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Post by angelminx on Jul 28, 2014 18:12:40 GMT -5
It works!!! I had to try 2 times, because I obviously thought I'd pushed the tail ends on all the way, and hadn't. It looked like one end was completely undone--both times that I took the cover off. Now, if only I haven't knocked something else loose. I'm watching for leaks, just in case.
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Post by richiero on Oct 15, 2014 20:32:57 GMT -5
hope this is not me lol
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Post by angelminx on Oct 24, 2014 13:58:20 GMT -5
I've got to change my UV bulb soon, so hopefully I won't mess everything up when I do, and have to got through this again .
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Post by Carl on Oct 24, 2014 15:32:16 GMT -5
I've got to change my UV bulb soon, so hopefully I won't mess everything up when I do, and have to got through this again . Just make sure to keep it as simple as possible, which these UVs are certainly capable of. I would just shut off the power, to the UV and stop the water flow, then disconnect the lamp electrical contact ends and remove the lamps, then replace and re-connect. Nothing more, nothing less As the UV ages, O rings may need to be replaced, but this is usually years away. Video Information: www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCeptpslU78Carl
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Post by angelminx on Oct 26, 2014 1:10:01 GMT -5
Somehow I got sidetracked and forgot I had these photos to share. This was right before I finally got it right ! It's kind of hard to see, but this is one of the slow leaks, both (at one of) the sources, and going down the tubing: I had finally set the whole thing up on the front of the tank to watch for leaks more easily , and this is the way it is now set up--except on the back of the tank . The XP2 has the #20 and #30 foam in the lower basket, and the upper basket has the matrix, and micro filtration pads (I've used 2 of each). I had to order more of the Matrix, because originally I only purchased one bottle, forgetting that I wanted some for the 10G tank as well (from the 1st bottle, I put the required amount in the 10G, and the rest into a filter bag in the XP2). So when I did the last cleaning of the XP2 (and the Rio) I sorted through both the new bottle (and the used from the XP2) of Matrix for the bigger pieces (some of the smaller ones would fall through the basket without the media bag), and placed them directly into the basket, then put the smaller ones into the media bag (I tried to hold out the smallest pieces for use at another time if needed in another application), and the micro filtration pads on top. In this picture, you can see that I had started the gravel change-over. Next month I purchase the replacement UV bulb to prepare for the semi-annual bulb change. I would get 2, but with Christmas on the way I have a couple other things to get .
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Post by Carl on Oct 26, 2014 10:35:39 GMT -5
Looks like you got your pictures to upload well so that they can enlarge! I would suggest a hose clamp on the one connection on the fart left. Once you feel comfortable that there are no leaks, you should be able to move this equipment to the back so that your aquarium does not have equipment blocking your view Carl
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Post by angelminx on Oct 27, 2014 0:37:57 GMT -5
Hi, Carl.
The unit/set-up IS on the back right now. Every time I had set it up and moved it to the back before (I hadn't tested it out on the front), it would start leaking. I had problems getting the hose clamps to "catch" and tighten (not enough strength I guess), that's why I have the red zip-tie (and because it's underwater) on the hose in the photos, and some "clear" ones I got later in the 3rd photo.
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Post by angelminx on Aug 2, 2015 15:47:05 GMT -5
Hi, Carl! I will be replacing the UV bulb this month (the 2nd bulb-change since finally getting the system up and running), and was wondering if I should order a quartz sleeve at the same time as the bulb and O-rings (which I will be changing for the 1st time), just to be on the safe side (or can the unit run without the sleeve until I get a replacement if something happens to this one)? Last time I just removed and changed the bulb, I didn't remove the sleeve to check or clean it. I am assuming I should clean the sleeve this time (as well as replace the O-rings), but since I have never done this before, I have a couple of other questions. Is it both the inside and the outside of the sleeve that needs cleaning, and how would I go about cleaning the inside? Also, on a different thread, you mentioned using acetone to clean the sleeve...the only type I have is fingernail polish remover, which I assume should not be used, where would I get the "plain" acetone , and does it come in a "small" container, or would I have to get the "industrial" size? Also, at the same time I will removing the hoses to clean them out. I couldn't get them apart last time, so my Sister-in-law's Dad is going to come over to help me. I don't know how they get so guncky and "black"-looking--which I am assuming has something to do with an algae or (?)"mold"--especially when the majority of the tubing is behind the tank, away from "sunlight". Should I just buy new hoses, or should I just try to do the best I can at getting them clean? I had cleaned the previous ones once before, but it is a pain with the hoses being longer than my hose brushes. Thanks for your assistance ! Angelminx
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Post by Carl on Aug 2, 2015 18:47:01 GMT -5
Angelminx;
The quartz sleeve only needs to be cleaned on the outside. Alcohol can remove acetone, but I usually just used soapy water, then rinse well and dry.
This UV MUST have the quartz sleeve in place to work Since Quartz sleeves virtually last forever, the only time you need one is when it gets broken, so maybe having a spare just in case is a good idea.
O rings are another part that last for a few years, but having a paid on hand is probably a good idea.
Finally, as per tubing, I honestly almost never clean this unless impeding water flow (which is extremely rare from my experience)
Carl
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Post by angelminx on Aug 2, 2015 22:12:11 GMT -5
I don't know if this would have had any effect on the water going thru the hoses or not, but on Friday the city came and pulled out the fire hydrant (right in front of my apartment) and (?) replaced the pipe (the hydrant doesn't look any newer). They supposedly informed everybody that, after the water was turned back on, they would have to boil their water thru Tuesday--but I was home the whole time and nobody ever came to my door, or even left a note . I didn't even know that the water had been turned off until I had to flush the toilet . I finally had to call the police department later in the day to get the boil order info, because no-one at the water department was even answering the phone whenever I tried calling . ...good thing I did my water change 2 days before . When the subject about the scummy hoses came up last week, someone at church told me that the reason the tubes are scuzzy is because I don't use algaecide .... She is of the old-school : the tank only needs to be cleaned when it gets too bad, and then you're supposed to take it apart completely to clean it...and you should rarely do anything with your water other than top the tank off (or use a Neutral Regulator or add table salt). Unfortunately it is a waste of time trying to convince her otherwise (she's in her late 70s or early 80s). You couldn't convince my Dad, either , because (again, " ") "When I was growing up, my sister bred fish that no-one else could, and she never changed the water!" He was always after me about wasting water by doing "so many" "unnecessary" water changes. ...and this (started) before I "understood" cycling (although I knew it needed to be done) and didn't have/use test kits. "Test kits are a waste of money , unless you're a professional." ...poor fishies .
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Aug 3, 2015 8:37:35 GMT -5
I don't know if this would have had any effect on the water going thru the hoses or not, but on Friday the city came and pulled out the fire hydrant (right in front of my apartment) and (?) replaced the pipe (the hydrant doesn't look any newer). They supposedly informed everybody that, after the water was turned back on, they would have to boil their water thru Tuesday--but I was home the whole time and nobody ever came to my door, or even left a note . I didn't even know that the water had been turned off until I had to flush the toilet . I finally had to call the police department later in the day to get the boil order info, because no-one at the water department was even answering the phone whenever I tried calling . ...good thing I did my water change 2 days before . When the subject about the scummy hoses came up last week, someone at church told me that the reason the tubes are scuzzy is because I don't use algaecide .... She is of the old-school : the tank only needs to be cleaned when it gets too bad, and then you're supposed to take it apart completely to clean it...and you should rarely do anything with your water other than top the tank off (or use a Neutral Regulator or add table salt). Unfortunately it is a waste of time trying to convince her otherwise (she's in her late 70s or early 80s). You couldn't convince my Dad, either , because (again, " ") "When I was growing up, my sister bred fish that no-one else could, and she never changed the water!" He was always after me about wasting water by doing "so many" "unnecessary" water changes. ...and this (started) before I "understood" cycling (although I knew it needed to be done) and didn't have/use test kits. "Test kits are a waste of money , unless you're a professional." ...poor fishies . Tehe. Glad you figured that one out...
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