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Post by angelminx on Jun 29, 2014 18:09:46 GMT -5
Okay, Carl, I'm just deciding what to order when I set up my UV sterilizer. I told you a while ago about my XP2's motor dying, so I know I'll be ordering the Rio 1000 (unless you have any better suggestions for this whole thing). The tank is a 55G low-medium light planted tank. [I'm adding a photo, but so far, even when I attatch the pix before I finish typing my post, they still get placed at the end.] I need to replace a few of the parts for the XP2, like the outflow regulator (I have a number of someone to call, but wonder if you know of any sources), before I can "activate" the pump again. I am planning on getting the 8 watt TMC Vecton. I also already have the FilterMax III pre-filter (it's on the Whisper 60 HOB right now, so should I get another FilterMax III, or should I order a FilterMax II for the HOB?). I'll need to buy more hose/tubing (I think the XP' hoses are 5/8" ID), but I'm not sure how much to get. I'm going to have to start from scratch on them' since I can't get the old hoses off of the inlet and outlet pipes, and they are VERY scuzzy anyway. I'm also not sure what the best placement in/on the tank would be: I can't really get to the left side of the tank to service it, with out moving the "nightstand"/aquarium stand. Also the space behind the aquarium is about 4 inches. Originally there was more space, but when Housing had new carpets installed, the installers, set it back up spaced like this, and I never really thought about it. How would I set up the system (i.e. where would the tubing go with the Rio, the XP2, and the sterilizer--and how much would I need for each section)? If I've got it correct, the pre-filter is attatched to the Rio, which is attatched to the XP (how?), and the Vecton would be attatched at the outflow. Again, how would all this be done, and how much tubing would I need for each section? Is there anything else I need to get to set this up? Thanx again, Carl Here's a pic of the tank situation:
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Post by angelminx on Jun 30, 2014 0:05:58 GMT -5
I just watched the UV sterilizer bulb/quartz sleeve video. I don't know if it was my computer, or what, but I had a hard time hearing it (I could catch most of it though). I checked the volume on my computer, and it said it was set at 100%. There was a message at the top of the site that said that they (? You Tube) were going to stop supporting the version of Explorer that I have (8), and to install an update. The problem is, I have a Windows Vista computer and have tried several times to install Explorer 9--and even 10--but I have been told (by tech support) that I'm upgraded as high as is allowed for this system. I don't know if you have any suggestions or alternatives for viewing your videos when they do stop supporting it.
I also have another question. When I set up the UV/filter system how do I handle all the cords from all the equipment? I have a surge protector/powerstrip that has 6 outlets: 2 are taken up by the heaters (though not in use at the moment--temp's running about 77 degrees), one has the HOB plugged into it, another one will be taken by the Rio, and I have the timer, with the striplight plugged in, taking up one. If I get the AquaBars to start out with I'll need 2 for them, is there a way to route the two into the one timer, or will I need another timer? How will I be able to plug in the sterilizer once I need to re-connect the heaters? The black strip that you see in the previous photo is the surge-protector/powerstrip (with a Lifegard Big Digital Temp Alert sitting on top), which is connected to the off-white extension cord you can see above the aquarium and to the left (it's one of the older, flat, heavy-duty cords). It in turn is plugged into the outlet at the bottom left of the photo; the black plug belongs to my bed (a Sleep Number). Out of the picture, and to the right of the 10G is an outlet with its filter and heater, and the air pump pugged in. I have a 4-plug outlet there, but to reach it would require another extension cord. On the opposite wall is the lamp, alarm clock/radio, TV, satellite and a VCR (still working), also all plugged into a surge-protector/powerstrip. The only other outlet is the one that I mentioned a while ago, that's behind the door (between it and the closet), on the right-hand wall.
Hope you can help.
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Post by Carl on Jun 30, 2014 8:41:45 GMT -5
I cannot say why you cannot hear the video, as I have listened to it many times on different computers. I would suggest the Firefox browser. My kids computer is Vista and they use Firefox. I would plug any future lights into a multi plug adapter that will fit your timer. Better; I would also suggest a three prong outdoor type timer for use around an aquarium The Rio would sit inside tour aquarium just under where your original intake for the Filstar would be placed. I would use a Filter Max 3 since your Filstar Canister filter will handle the majority of filtration. The UV Sterilizer can be spliced into your Return line from the Filstar where ever it is convenient, as it can be hing or placed flat. The tubing size best to use would be 5/8" ID tubing Carl
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Post by angelminx on Jun 30, 2014 12:13:29 GMT -5
So the Vecton would fit behind the tank? How would I hang it, since I'm not allowed to attatch it to the wall and the aquarium stand is only a "wood-frame" stand? When you say it can be hung or placed flat, do you mean that it can just sit on the bottom shelf of the aquarium stand?
How much of the tubing do you think I should order? Will I need an adapter for the tubing to splice the Vecton into the XP2? Also, if I'm thinking right, I will not need to use either the intake pipe from the XP2, or the return line for the XP2, its outflow pipe because the hose would go straight to the Vecton, and the return would then go into the aquarium? So I'll need both a water return and intake adapter. Will I need any 90 degree adapter elbows or hose clamps? I have the 4 clamps that came with the XP2.
One more thing: When the XP2 is run normally and you put it back after cleaning, you are supposed to leave the canister empty of water, and then when you hook it back up (before plugging it back in) the canister is supposed to fill automatically. How does this work with the Rio 1000? Am I still supposed to leave the canister empty?
Am I forgetting anything? Thanks, Angelminx
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Post by Carl on Jun 30, 2014 15:48:37 GMT -5
So the Vecton would fit behind the tank? How would I hang it, since I'm not allowed to attatch it to the wall and the aquarium stand is only a "wood-frame" stand? When you say it can be hung or placed flat, do you mean that it can just sit on the bottom shelf of the aquarium stand? Yes and yes. I can be laid flat or hung just as our website shows Here are a couple of pictures from our web pages: You can secure it with coat hanger wires if hung, but often the tubing secures it well assuming the tubing is securely attached to the aquarium and filter References (please give a read): www.americanaquariumproducts.com/TMCUVSterilizer.htmlwww.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.htmlHow much of the tubing do you think I should order? Will I need an adapter for the tubing to splice the Vecton into the XP2?[/quote] Just enough tubing to run from the Water pump to the elbow where you would normally attach your canister filter pickup No adapter is needed unless you are missing something from your canister filter. This is a very simple set up, all you are doing is splicing the UV inline to to return line as per our UV Sterilizer use article. Nothing more should be needed unless you change the configuration. From UV Sterilization; Examples Section: "Probably the most common UV Sterilizer Application is to a Canister Filter or Pressurized Pond Filter (these pressurized pond filters make an excellent alternative aquarium canister filter as well).
The picture below demonstrates a Vecton 8 Watt, very simply spliced ("plumbed") in-line from the return side of the Vecton UV "Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#examplesI usually leave the canister filter empty when powered by a separate pump, it then fills up automatically with no priming Carl
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Post by angelminx on Jun 30, 2014 20:58:13 GMT -5
Thanks for the info, Carl. I can finally order my UV setup after the 4th of July! I've decided to wait on the LEDs for now, and just switch out the 2 remaining new fluorescents I aready have--and maybe, by the time I'm ready to order, I'll be able to afford the GrowBeams. Hopefully I won't have too much trouble with the CB while I wait, since the LEDs are good for helping to battle it, as appossed to the T-8s I already have.
BTW, how long would you suggest I wait to switch out the 2nd bulb, and which should I switch out 1st: the front "regular" bulb or the back plant bulb?
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Post by Carl on Jul 1, 2014 10:20:01 GMT -5
BTW, how long would you suggest I wait to switch out the 2nd bulb, and which should I switch out 1st: the front "regular" bulb or the back plant bulb? Could you refresh my memory as to which bulb is which as to type in Kelvins and brand? Sorry, I get sooo many questions every day along with my tons of other work, especially since our lovely City decided to attempt to shut us down, it is very hard for me at times to remember everyone's exact equipment Carl
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Post by angelminx on Jul 1, 2014 12:21:11 GMT -5
The front bulb is a Hagen Aqua-glo 18,000K (it was the only regular bulb they had when I purchased it and the one in use right now). In back is the plant bulb, an Aqueon Floramax, but the Kelvin rating is not stated.
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Post by angelminx on Jul 1, 2014 12:47:58 GMT -5
I just went in and checked both the bulbs that are in place right now, and the "new" bulbs. The front bulb is actually a Penn-Plax (I never saw a Kelvin rating listed for them), and the plant bulb is a Zoo-Med Florasun. The Florasun bulb does not state the K-rating. The replacement bulbs are both the Aqua-Glos. For some reason one of them is in the packaging box for the Aqueon Floramax (which was the bulb I switched out for the Florasun).
The present bulbs were installed on 1/11/'14 (Penn-Plax), and 1/18/'14 (Florasun). I never was able to get consistency with the bulbs that were available, and now that I think of it, when I bought the last ones no one had any plant bulbs available.
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Post by Carl on Jul 1, 2014 15:00:19 GMT -5
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Post by angelminx on Jul 1, 2014 19:08:16 GMT -5
I found an old spectral graph that I had saved from my 15W bulb that I had quite a while ago. I'm assuming the info is still the same. I tried to scan it and attatch it to this post, but when I tried it just said "no preview". I tried a a couple of times, but I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. The best I can tell you is that the graph starts at around 375 at a relative power of just below 5%, and continues to rise till just after 400, where it peaks at 40%; it falls back down to about 15% where it continues to rise till at about 20% it then peaks at just below 100% ; it then falls to about 30% where it finishes its "hump" at a peak of about 35%, where it gradually starts to fall till it reaches a little above 575 and then peaks at about 50%. It then continues the gradual fall till till about 575 where it peaks again at about 20%, then falls and immediately peaks again at about 15%. The relative power then declines to about 10% till just after 600 where there is a double peak (barely any decline between them) at about 40%,where it again falls to about 20% at 625 and peaks to around 25%, where it the falls to just above 10% at just below 650 where it begins a slightly jaged ascent to a peak of about 60% where it has a steep drop (at about halfway between 650 and 700) to its "lowest" point, again below around 5%, remaining "steady" till just before 700, where there is a wide section that peaks just above 10%, and then falls off the chart at a little below 725.
I hope that helps you to "see" the graph. I'll probably go ahead and change out the Florasun 1st and wait a few days to change out the Penn-Plax (BTW, the old packaging says it is a Penn-Plax Aquari-lux bulb; I just always thought of it as a Penn-Plax), since both replacement bulbs are the 18,000W Aqua-Glos.
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Post by Carl on Jul 2, 2014 9:04:42 GMT -5
The Penn-Plax Aquari-lux is a old standby lamp that has been used since at least the 70s.
Its aim is to bring out fish colors. It is not designed to grow med.-high light plants or limit algae. It is purely for fish colors and does a nice job for this too IMO
Carl
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Post by angelminx on Jul 2, 2014 12:20:57 GMT -5
That's the reason I originally purchased it; that and to place in front of the plant bulb to balance everything out. Back when I had a 30G aquarium, I only had the single striplight full hood that came with the tank. When I went to replace the light, I decided to get a plant bulb (I forget which brand it was), but the light turned everything green. So when I got the double striplight for the 55G, I decided to go with a regular bulb in front, with a plant bulb in back. The last time I bought replacements, I couldn't find the Penn-Plax bulbs. That's how I ended up with the Aqua-Glos.
One more question about the UV system set up. When I connect everything to the XP2, I need to replace the "tall" outlet pipe extension. Mine got broken somehow, and I want the return to be further below the surface than the "short" outlet pipe goes. I still have the regular outlet pipe--the one that curves over the tank--rim but I'm not sure if there's an alternative way to do this without the "tall" outlet pipe extension from the XP2. I hate to have to pay shipping for the one little part. I probably don't really need the power jet nozzle, which I don't have anymore either, and I'm not sure if there's a simple way to place the spray bar so that it doesn't blow the "tops" of the plants to the front of the tank, so I'm planning on just letting the water flow unrestricted from the outlet pipe extension.
Do you have any suggestions what parts I can get from Home Depot (or do you have what I need that I can order at the same time I place my order for the Vecton/Rio?/etc?
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Post by Carl on Jul 2, 2014 14:21:06 GMT -5
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Post by angelminx on Jul 3, 2014 0:14:55 GMT -5
Carl, thank you so much for your help. Back on March 1st, I printed out a copy of your "catalog" so I'd have an idea of what you carried, but back then you didn't have the above pictured "return adapter". My angels Angelminx and Mungogerrie thank you too. I left the intake pipe from the XP in the tank after I dismantled the "broken" XP2, because that was their favorite place to spawn. I was wondering if I should leave it in for them when I put together the new set-up, or let them find another place to spawn. This will be perfect!! [Unless, of course they decide to turn their noses up at it, LOL!]
So when I place my order this weekend (or probably Monday at the latest) I need to order:
1) the Filter-Max III pre-filter 2) the Rio 1000 [3: I have the motorless XP2] 4) the 8 watt Vecton 5) the #02 water intake adapter 6) the #02B universal water intake with strainer; and 7) (I'm guessing) 5' of 5/8" tubing.
I have a couple of approximately 2 1/2' sections of left-over tubing from the original setup, and I'm thinking that I may be able to salvage some of the tubing that was being used in the original setup. How would you suggest I sterilize it after cleaning it out as best as I can?
Can you think of anything else I'm missing? I plan on getting a replacement UV bulb for it at a later date. How often would you suggest I replace the quartz sleeve? I know the bulb should be replaced every 6 months, and the O-rings can be replaced as often as that. Am I forgetting anything?
Thnx, again!
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jul 4, 2014 9:31:45 GMT -5
Carl, thank you so much for your help. Back on March 1st, I printed out a copy of your "catalog" so I'd have an idea of what you carried, but back then you didn't have the above pictured "return adapter". My angels Angelminx and Mungogerrie thank you too. I left the intake pipe from the XP in the tank after I dismantled the "broken" XP2, because that was their favorite place to spawn. I was wondering if I should leave it in for them when I put together the new set-up, or let them find another place to spawn. This will be perfect!! [Unless, of course they decide to turn their noses up at it, LOL!] So when I place my order this weekend (or probably Monday at the latest) I need to order: 1) the Filter-Max III pre-filter 2) the Rio 1000 [3: I have the motorless XP2] 4) the 8 watt Vecton 5) the #02 water intake adapter 6) the #02B universal water intake with strainer; and 7) (I'm guessing) 5' of 5/8" tubing. I have a couple of approximately 2 1/2' sections of left-over tubing from the original setup, and I'm thinking that I may be able to salvage some of the tubing that was being used in the original setup. How would you suggest I sterilize it after cleaning it out as best as I can? Can you think of anything else I'm missing? I plan on getting a replacement UV bulb for it at a later date. How often would you suggest I replace the quartz sleeve? I know the bulb should be replaced every 6 months, and the O-rings can be replaced as often as that. Am I forgetting anything? Thnx, again! Seems like most everything is correct. The tubing to the Rio required 5/8 inch, and the vecton can take 5/8 too, so I would go with that. 5 feet should be ok, depending on where you mount it. I have a sterilizer mounted below the tank (40 gal) and I needed about 8 feet. If you are using some old tubing with new, you will need an adapter to connect the two pieces. Carl has them on the plumbing parts page. I would say a lite mix of bleach water would clean them fine. Just let them dry. I use vinegar afterwards as a precaution. www.americanaquariumproducts.com/PlumbingParts.htmlThe quartz sleeve only needs to be replaced if it breaks or gets build up on it. Even then, it can be cleaned to some degree. This might happen once a year or two. It's not regular. Same with the o-rings, only when needed.
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Post by Carl on Jul 4, 2014 14:38:36 GMT -5
I agree with what Devon stated.
I would only add that the only time I have not been able to clean a quartz sleeve 100% is with a few very nasty ponds. In aquariums, I usually do not even need to clean the quartz sleeve with every bulb change
Carl
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Post by angelminx on Jul 4, 2014 15:05:13 GMT -5
Thanks, guys. I'm going to place my order tomorrow, I'm just going over all my plans in case I think of something else I need to order at the same time, like some Wonder Shells.
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Post by angelminx on Jul 12, 2014 0:20:33 GMT -5
I just got my shipment today! I am in the proccess of putting everything together: I just finished cleaning/disinfecting/soaking the old XP2 filter parts, and am trying to figure out what goes where and putting things together. Since I'm "starting from scracth" with the pre-filter/Rio/XP2/Vecton, I've set the canister up with all new filtration pads/micro-filtration pads, and put the Matrix (after rinsing the dust out) in a filter bag and then inside the upper compartment of the XP2, below the micro-filtration pads. I started out with the Matrix loose in the basket, but some of the pieces were small enough that they fell through the grid while I was rinsing it.
I have a question about the XP2 (which is going to be run by the Rio 1000). Should I remove the impleller on it since it's motor doesn't work anyway? Also, I ordered the 5/8" tubing because that's what the inside dimension of the tubing that came with the Filstar measured with my ruler; the tubing I got has 5/8" printed on it, but its ID is smaller than the Filstar's tubing (printed on its tubing it just says: Rena 16 X 21). If I need the extra tubing when I get "everything put together" should I just purchase a hose connector(s), or is there something else I can do?? The 5/8 is too small to fit onto the XP2's parts--it looks like the outside of the 5/8" ID is the same dimension as the outside of the XP2 parts (where the hoses are supposed to connect).
I scraped the glass surfaces of the tank tonight to give the HOB a chance to pick up the debris, then tomorrow I'm going to use the Quick Vac, then remove a little water to rinse the sponge and inserts in, and then, hopefully get everythiing connected and running. That is if I have enough of the previous tubing.
Thanks, Angelminx
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Post by angelminx on Jul 12, 2014 12:41:20 GMT -5
I have a couple more questions. Should I use the flow-control valve on the Rio? I don't know if I'll need to adjust the flow rate after everything's set up or not. Also, as to where the tubing connects the Filstar to the Rio, the pipe size on the Rio is too small for the XP's tubing. Could I use some teflon tape to make it large enough for the tubing, or just get an adapter and use a little bit of the 5/8" tubing with the Rio? The adapters that came with the Rio are too big for the XP's tubing.
Thanks again.
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