|
Post by angelminx on Jun 19, 2014 18:21:07 GMT -5
Something I have been wondering about recently, but never really thought about before, is how to properly dispose of the "solutions" after completeing water tests. I have never seen anything on the packaging or inserts the tests come with, other than (occassionally) how to dispose of the bottle it comes in. I have always run hot water (to help the test tubes dry out faster afterwards?) and dumped the solution (one tube at a time) down the sink, rinsing both the tubes and the caps out 5 times or more. I set them on a towel until I've done them all, then after patting the outsides of the tubes dry, I shake them out one at a time, and place them back in the "bowl" I keep them in so that they can finish air drying. I have broken a few test tubes when I pick up the part of the towel I am patting them with by accidentally grabbing the towel they are sitting on, too. So far I haven't had to buy any replacement ones (except that I need a new one for my Elos phosphate test) because I have accumulated quite a few from getting refill packages.
Also, so that I can test multiple tanks at a time, I have taken "permanent" markers and drawn a horizantal line partway around the tube, about half way between the top and the 5 ml mark (API tests), in blue for my quarantine tank, and red for source water, leaving the ones for the 55 gallon with out any added markings. I do have to remark them every so often. Also, does anyone have any idea where to get racks for test tubes (to set them in during testing)?
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Jun 19, 2014 18:59:23 GMT -5
Here is a web site with test tube racks: www.hometrainingtools.com/test-tubes/c/125/I have always personally just rinsed each tube in a small stream of lukewarm water several times then dumped down the sink Whether this is best, I cannot say, but I have never had an issue with odd test results. My main concern has always been accidentally infecting one client's aquarium from the previous one I serviced, so I was careful as to how much I rinsed in questionable aquarium and more importantly used saltwater to rince equipment from freshwater aquariums and freshwater for saltwater aquariums. I also often mixed up my service schedule so that I would go from a saltwater to a freshwater, then back to a saltwater aquarium Carl
|
|
|
Post by devonjohnsgard on Jun 21, 2014 0:24:35 GMT -5
Something I have been wondering about recently, but never really thought about before, is how to properly dispose of the "solutions" after completeing water tests. I have never seen anything on the packaging or inserts the tests come with, other than (occassionally) how to dispose of the bottle it comes in. I have always run hot water (to help the test tubes dry out faster afterwards?) and dumped the solution (one tube at a time) down the sink, rinsing both the tubes and the caps out 5 times or more. I set them on a towel until I've done them all, then after patting the outsides of the tubes dry, I shake them out one at a time, and place them back in the "bowl" I keep them in so that they can finish air drying. I have broken a few test tubes when I pick up the part of the towel I am patting them with by accidentally grabbing the towel they are sitting on, too. So far I haven't had to buy any replacement ones (except that I need a new one for my Elos phosphate test) because I have accumulated quite a few from getting refill packages.
Also, so that I can test multiple tanks at a time, I have taken "permanent" markers and drawn a horizantal line partway around the tube, about half way between the top and the 5 ml mark (API tests), in blue for my quarantine tank, and red for source water, leaving the ones for the 55 gallon with out any added markings. I do have to remark them every so often. Also, does anyone have any idea where to get racks for test tubes (to set them in during testing)? I haven't worried about it either. I've really cut back the test tubes though, since I went the 5 in 1. I get the test tubes out if I ever have any issues, but haven't needed to for a while. I would go to a toy store and look at a science kit for a holder, or order one off line. I have one I got with a science kit in a college class.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2014 0:17:20 GMT -5
Something I have been wondering about recently, but never really thought about before, is how to properly dispose of the "solutions" after completeing water tests. I have never seen anything on the packaging or inserts the tests come with, other than (occassionally) how to dispose of the bottle it comes in. I have always run hot water (to help the test tubes dry out faster afterwards?) and dumped the solution (one tube at a time) down the sink, rinsing both the tubes and the caps out 5 times or more. I set them on a towel until I've done them all, then after patting the outsides of the tubes dry, I shake them out one at a time, and place them back in the "bowl" I keep them in so that they can finish air drying. I have broken a few test tubes when I pick up the part of the towel I am patting them with by accidentally grabbing the towel they are sitting on, too. So far I haven't had to buy any replacement ones (except that I need a new one for my Elos phosphate test) because I have accumulated quite a few from getting refill packages.
Also, so that I can test multiple tanks at a time, I have taken "permanent" markers and drawn a horizantal line partway around the tube, about half way between the top and the 5 ml mark (API tests), in blue for my quarantine tank, and red for source water, leaving the ones for the 55 gallon with out any added markings. I do have to remark them every so often. Also, does anyone have any idea where to get racks for test tubes (to set them in during testing)? Angelminx, if you haven't already purchased a rack ... I just posted instructions for a DIY one in the General Aquaria thread.. might be just what you need
|
|
|
Post by angelminx on Sept 9, 2014 0:54:19 GMT -5
Thanks Seapetal! I think I'm going to give it a try. I have to wait to get some of the foam, though, until I place another ("large") order. Otherwise, the shipping will cost more than the foam!!! I haven't noticed any in the Petco/smart around here.
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Sept 9, 2014 9:49:09 GMT -5
Thanks Seapetal! I think I'm going to give it a try. I have to wait to get some of the foam, though, until I place another ("large") order. Otherwise, the shipping will cost more than the foam!!! I haven't noticed any in the Petco/smart around here. Here is a link to the "DIY Aquarium Test Tube Holder" blog post: www.everything-aquatic.com/2014/09/diy-test-tube-holder-by-seapetal111-is.htmlCarl
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 9, 2014 11:31:39 GMT -5
Thanks Seapetal! I think I'm going to give it a try. I have to wait to get some of the foam, though, until I place another ("large") order. Otherwise, the shipping will cost more than the foam!!! I haven't noticed any in the Petco/smart around here. The foam is what is sold in the fish dept.. pre-cut for use in HOB filters. Here, the big line is Hagen/Aquaclear so the shelves of every fish dept. are full of these packaged for the various size filters. There must be a comparable thing there...? I didn't mean for anyone to go buying sheets of foam to cut up etc..
|
|
|
Post by angelminx on Sept 10, 2014 17:46:50 GMT -5
I sometimes do a large number of tests at one time, like today I ran tests one my 55G, my 10G, and the container I just set up last night for H2O changes (usually a couple times a month, I test my tap water parameters). I ran tests on pH, KH, GH, Nitrate, Nitrite, Ammonia and Copper (I am using a Medicated Wonder Shell in the 10G right now) from the API kits, and Phosphate from my Elos kit. Usually I only test for pH, KH , and sometimes Nitrate. The others aren't tested on a regular basis. For instance, I haven't tested for phosphates in my planted tank for quite a while, and they read 0 today, so I added some Seachem phosphorus, and my Nitrates in the same tank were a little under 10, so I added some Seachem nitrogen. The phosphates are normally quite stable (and rarely over 0.05,though my tap water is usually 1++); and the Nitrate tends to stay between 5 and 15 (I test it more often), sometimes it stays at 15 for quite a while before it goes down and I add any supplemental nitrogen. Sooo...,that's why I was thinking about a larger piece of foam. Although, I suppose I could get a "bunch" of the ones you mentioned since I am only doing larger numbers of test on occasion, I just never thought of that.
Thanks for the tips. Angelminx
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Sept 11, 2014 10:02:37 GMT -5
Angelminx; With a normal aquarium bio load, the addition of nitrogen and/or phosphates should not be necessary From "Planted Aquarium Care" article: "My experience as well as research is that it is very rare for a healthy planted aquarium with a normal bio load (especially using the "Walstad Method") should ever need to have phosphates added to the aquarium.
As with phosphates, the need to add additional nitrate (nitrogen) in a healthy normal bio load aquarium is rare. In fact I feel so strongly as to the lack of need to ever add either phosphates or nitrate/nitrogen that I have ceased selling any such products in any of my aquarium supply businesses many years ago."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumPlants.html#nutrientsCarl
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2014 11:30:40 GMT -5
I sometimes do a large number of tests at one time, like today I ran tests one my 55G, my 10G, and the container I just set up last night for H2O changes (usually a couple times a month, I test my tap water parameters). I ran tests on pH, KH, GH, Nitrate, Nitrite, Ammonia and Copper (I am using a Medicated Wonder Shell in the 10G right now) from the API kits, and Phosphate from my Elos kit. Usually I only test for pH, KH , and sometimes Nitrate. The others aren't tested on a regular basis. For instance, I haven't tested for phosphates in my planted tank for quite a while, and they read 0 today, so I added some Seachem phosphorus, and my Nitrates in the same tank were a little under 10, so I added some Seachem nitrogen. The phosphates are normally quite stable (and rarely over 0.05,though my tap water is usually 1++); and the Nitrate tends to stay between 5 and 15 (I test it more often), sometimes it stays at 15 for quite a while before it goes down and I add any supplemental nitrogen. Sooo...,that's why I was thinking about a larger piece of foam. Although, I suppose I could get a "bunch" of the ones you mentioned since I am only doing larger numbers of test on occasion, I just never thought of that.
Thanks for the tips. AngelminxI didn't mean you had to use what I'm describing, just mentioned in case you hadn't realized that's what I was suggesting and were setting off on a hunt when you only need to visit your LFS ...which is always a good thing anyway It does sound like you need a larger customized version of it but that's the beauty of it, you design it to suit your needs. You can have a few based on the tubes you work with at a time, but then make a tray sized to hold them all. This would mean you can carry them all at once to use or to clean, but then work with a portion of them at a time. (you don't want to be trying to hold up a block of 20 tubes just to fill 4 of them) You can add spots or make a separate one for your dropper, lids, even a slot for your colour card.. totally up to you. *One word of caution though... I would make sure whatever foam you use will form and hold it's shape like the filter foam does. (you could cut a cross into sponge foam and be able to push a tube in, but it may grab the tube too tight and you then may need to hold the foam down with one hand to pull it out with the other.. and that would be bothersome). If the filter foam seems best but not larger enough, they could be stitched together.
|
|
|
Post by angelminx on Sept 11, 2014 13:08:26 GMT -5
Carl, I should probably be more clear on the addition of phosphorous/nitrogen. As I said, I add phosphorous MUCH less often than I do the nitrogen, which I MAY add up to 6 times per year, and that is only when levels seem to stay at 5 ppm or lower over a stretch of time (since I want to maintain ~ 15 ppm for the plants). Since I live in "farm country" the levels in our water tend to fluctuate, but are usually adequate and, luckily, not usually excessive (which does happen every once in a while). I know that the plants are readjusting to being replanted after the gravel change-over and the switch to the Grobeams. I should also be getting the new plants in the next week or so. I am finalizing the purchase right now.
|
|