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Post by Ameenah on May 19, 2014 20:22:06 GMT -5
Hi Devon Thanks for your reply. You're right, it was just over 2 months ago that I put the V-1000 FSB Filter on my big tank - when I was setting it up and getting ready to move fish into. From the description you provided about your FSB Filter and pump mine sounds like a dud. I don't know how to take a measurement of the pressure being provided by my SunSun water pump, and I am certain that I need to learn the proper way to measure it now. Seriously there was sooooo much Brown-ish gold-ish almost seaweed-ish (or Italian Paesley-ish looking) matter in the media when I cleaned it. When I say "so much" I clarify that over 1/4 cup of this substance! (I know I should have taken a photo). I just had a horrible thought - was that brown-ish gold-ish seaweed-ish stuff THE good bacteria? !!!!!!!! In my favor, there was some of the larger media rather "caught-up" in the base - as Carl mentioned as a possibility. Would it be even possible for so much to build up in such short a time - after all aren't these colonies composed of microscopic bacteria? I know that there was wayyyyyy to much of it - whatever it was. Now, I do have good churning again, but perhaps I need to add more media like NPX Bioplastics - what do you think?
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Post by Ameenah on May 19, 2014 20:34:18 GMT -5
Hello Carl and thank you for the reply
Yes, my FSB Filter media was well rinsed in de-chlorinated water -- I keep 10-gallons on hand at all times. The SunSun internal water pump has a built in sponge filter - do you think I should makeshift a sponge filter to go over this unit? Or, as I think, this would put far too much load on the filter?
Honestly, after learning of American Aquarium Products website, and that it is a sponsor for this forum, I could not think of even 1 good reason to shop elsewhere for my aquatic items. I do not use Social Media but bent that rule just to be a part of this Forum!
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Post by Carl on May 20, 2014 9:26:05 GMT -5
ameenah; The sponge in your pump should be adequate based on my use. I am not sure how this much organic mulm got through, but maybe during initial set up or more likely it simply formed in the FSB filter due a flow pattern that formed within the FSB filter. You can measure your flow rate from the pump, both with and without the FSB attached. Here is a quote from Aquarium answers; Head Pressure: "Simply place a container under the outlet of your pump as it empties into the aquarium or pond after passing through all devices and water feature. Then time how long it takes to fill the container in exact measurements. As an example if a 1 gallon container fills in 10 seconds, that is 6 gallons per minute or 360 gph (this works for metric using liters too)."Toy should normally see a 25-40% drop in flow with the fSB added, depending upon placement of the FSB relative top aquarium water level. Reference: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2011/09/head-pressure-in-aquarium-and-pond.html#calculationsUnless your nitrates are a real problem, the NPX bioplasitics would not be needed. As well this product requires the use Purigen or a Protien Skimmer (marine aquariums). Product Sources: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Seachem.html#purigenwww.americanaquariumproducts.com/TwoLittleFishies.htmlCarl
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Post by Ameenah on May 24, 2014 23:55:57 GMT -5
Today, 5-24-14, my grandson and I checked the head pressure of our SunSun HJ-1542 water pump. This water pump feeds our V-1000 FSB Filter. We did this test after draining 20% water (routine water change) before refilling the water so that we could fit a container inside the tank easily and time how long it took the water (returning to the tank) to fill the container. Doing a little simple math, I calculated the gallons per hour going through this filter system. Sadly, my suspicions proved true. The SunSun HJ-1542 is supposed to be 370 GPH, but ours is a meager 37.5 GPH!!!!
The pump sits on a slab of black slate atop 4" swimming pool filter sand substrate. For safety I filled some 1/2" aquarium tubing (hose) with sand and positioned these around the slate slab so my Monster Fish are prevented from knocking the pump or the slate slab into the glass. The V-1000 FSB Filter hangs on top outside the tank. I do not see how I could bring the water pump closer to the FSB Filter without risk of a fish-caused broken glass.
The 37.5 GPH is the reason the FSB Filter media was churning so slow and so darn full of mulm - to a point of minimal churning with the ball valve wide open - in just a month and a half of use. Actually it has operated consistently at this slow (and slower) flow rate since day one.
Time to get a water pump - one that will work correctly in my tank, and hope the manufacturer will provide warranty repair or replacement.
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Post by Carl on May 25, 2014 16:50:30 GMT -5
You need to return this pump for replacement, it is under warranty and honestly would be a first for this pump design. In fact, I believe Devon had this ump on his FSB filter and removed it because it was too powerful
I suspect it is moving more then 37 gph, otherwise it would not run the FSB filter at all, but even if the flow is double (70 gph), this is still too slow.
Generally after head pressure, based on your placement, a more normal flow would be at least 180 gph
Carl
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Post by Ameenah on May 25, 2014 19:40:53 GMT -5
Thank you for your reply Carl.
When preparing the pump for warranty replacement, obviously I will need to shut down my FSB Filter. Should I remove all media from the FSB Filter and clean it, then leave it to air until I am able to set it up with a water pump again? This seems like the right way to go about this.
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Post by Ameenah on May 25, 2014 19:50:19 GMT -5
In another of my tanks, the Dwarf Gourami Tank, I thought the Wonder Shell added a great contrast to show off a Red Flame Gourami. This tank has a different type of filtration - Living Filtration by Freshwater Clams! I have 13 of these wonderful bi-valves in the Dwarf Gourami Tank. The only "bad" thing about the clams is that you never see them unless you scoop one up in a net. But you often will see their protruding feeder tubes sticking out above the sand to "catch" microscopic waste - they think fish waste tastes good!
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Post by Carl on May 26, 2014 9:57:56 GMT -5
Thank you for your reply Carl. When preparing the pump for warranty replacement, obviously I will need to shut down my FSB Filter. Should I remove all media from the FSB Filter and clean it, then leave it to air until I am able to set it up with a water pump again? This seems like the right way to go about this. Yes this would be the best way. However I have had FSB filters in years past a where a filter or pump malfunctioned and the client did not notice this, thus leaving the FSB filter not functioning for several days or more. Upon re-starting the cycle did recover within a few weeks. Carl
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Post by devonjohnsgard on May 27, 2014 10:59:43 GMT -5
You need to return this pump for replacement, it is under warranty and honestly would be a first for this pump design. In fact, I believe Devon had this ump on his FSB filter and removed it because it was too powerful I suspect it is moving more then 37 gph, otherwise it would not run the FSB filter at all, but even if the flow is double (70 gph), this is still too slow. Generally after head pressure, based on your placement, a more normal flow would be at least 180 gph Carl Ya, I had the 1542 in my 40 gallon thinking that I needed the extra flow to power the 600 and through a sterilizer below the tank and return back up to the tank. It had enough power that I had to keep the valve closed about half way. I ended up switching out the pump for a little bit smaller pump so I could open the valve all the way and little bit quitter. Little bit better suited for a 40 gallon smaller set up. I wonder why yours has some flow issues? Glad you trying to figure it out though.
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Post by Ameenah on May 28, 2014 18:59:40 GMT -5
Hmmmm Devon I think I received the pump you were supposed to get, and you received the one I should have received!! LOL
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Post by devonjohnsgard on May 29, 2014 10:56:31 GMT -5
Hmmmm Devon I think I received the pump you were supposed to get, and you received the one I should have received!! LOL Here, you mail me your tank and I'll send you mine...that should take care of the problem
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Post by Ameenah on May 29, 2014 23:46:26 GMT -5
Hi Devon
That's an interesting manner of solving the water pump issue. I MIGHT consider it IF you are paying for the fish and the shipping too!! LOL!!
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jun 7, 2014 15:06:15 GMT -5
Hi Devon That's an interesting manner of solving the water pump issue. I MIGHT consider it IF you are paying for the fish and the shipping too!! LOL!! tehe, I was able to put together a thread for the 40 gallon I just put together. Check it out and let me know if I should pack it up and send it your way everythingaquatic.proboards.com/thread/3516/40-gallon-upgrade
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Post by Ameenah on Jun 7, 2014 15:23:24 GMT -5
Hello Everyone I have uploaded my monthly tour of the Big Tank and invite you to see how things are progressing. We have added some species of Barbs and after the Albino Oscar ate 2 of them she (or he) apparently disliked the taste! My poor little Lutino is in hiding a lot now from the Albino Oscar. When an encounter is near, the Tiger Oscar usually shows up to prevent a fight. She (or he) swims over and puts herself (or himself) between the 2 others and the Albino goes swimming off and forgetting about the Lutino Oscar. These Oscars are most interesting at this age. The Lutino prefers her (or his) meals in the evening and he is eating very well. All the other specimens are now on twice a day feedings and doing very well. About a week ago I noticed a white spot on the Tiger Oscar's head! It was odd shaped and about 1/16 inch at its widest. I examined all the tank specimens in search of the dreaded Ich or Hole In the Head. No sign of either possible disease was detected. I cautiously relaxed and monitored every specimen closely until the white area on the Tiger Oscar disappeared -thank goodness it was just a sore from either a bite or from scratching on a rock! Within this video I have provided a good look at the FSB Filter that I am at issues with. You will recall last month I had fully cleaned the sand media which contained quite a bit of mulm. See now a new crop of large mulm is again in the media. The problem is the internal water pump not providing proper (or even adequate) water flow to permit proper functioning of the FSB filter. I plan to return the water pump for warranty repair/replace during my next 25% water change. Here is the private you tube link: 6-6-2014 the Big Tank videoPlease give our video a Thumbs Up Like Thank you oh by the way, the cat kid in this video is our baby MaaZee. Her name means goat in Arabic! We have 2 other cat kids but they were busy sleeping when the video was done If the above link does not work, please copy and paste the following into your browser: www.youtube.com/watch?v=79SFCRNLYpg
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Post by Ameenah on Jun 12, 2014 7:55:50 GMT -5
I invite you to view lighting and aeration upgrades of the Big Tank There is 1 with daytime: 6-11-2014 New Daytime VideoAnd 1 with evening: 6-11-2014 New Evening Video My favorite is the evening - it makes me want to stay awake longer at night to observe LOL and yes, the lights are all turned off at bedtime. The air strips have blue and white LED lights to illuminate the air stream - we beefed it up with 2 additional large regular air stones. We still do use the hood lights 4 hours a day to give the fishes the "healthy lighting" but since there are no live plants in the tank we were able to use less expensive LED/air bubbler combo strips. I finally got the SunSun 1542 pump out of the tank for warranty replacement, and have cleaned the ton of mulm out of the FSB Filter. Now the medium is drying so that we can use it again when the new pump arrives. I opted to beef up the aeration because I am thinking that a tank this deep, and with so much water, I need to beef up the aeration to help fight off sulfur pockets in the substrate. Yes, I did have some of those black areas in the substrate - so with this water change, I churned those areas clear down to the glass bottom with my Python. My ammonia has never gone up to 0.05ppm, so I do not understand why I got the sulfur. I am also considering reducing the depth of substrate if increased aeration does not remedy this. Initially I went with the simple calculation for substrate: 1 pound to 1 gallon - this rule may be different with Tall Tanks. Still, in my understanding, the air bubbles are the vehicles which the ammonia and nitrate bond to and get carried to the surface for release to the air when the air bubbles burst. Any thoughts are appreciated - as always.
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jun 12, 2014 10:40:36 GMT -5
Yah for upgrades... Both of the videos appear to be the same. So, I only saw the night time lighting. Just so you know, if that sand doesn't have water fluidizing it, it will have it's good bacteria die off. You may just want to watch for your tanks cycle to be a little off, unless you have some other filtration. I wouldn't think you would have too much of a sulfur issue if you are have a good cycle going on in your tank. Carl or someone might have something else to add to this. From what I'm reading too, vacuuming to deep could make the issue worse. What I'm reading to help is having plants with roots or air line tubing underneath the substrate. That might be an issue with sand though. Good strong 6400K lighting also helps. Here's a quick read, which also links to other articles about the subject. I don't think there should be much of a problem though. www.americanaquariumproducts.com/nitrogen_cycle.html#denitrificationwww.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2008/11/hydrogen-sulfides.html
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Post by Carl on Jun 12, 2014 12:09:44 GMT -5
Your night LED lighting looks nice as do your fish! This is incorrect. Generally what you are describing is the process by which C)2 is removed from the aquarium The ammonia is only removed by water changes (a temporary fix), changes in ionization by products such as Prime (also a temporary fix), absorption from products such as Purigen, plants, and of course nitrification by aerobic bacteria in filter media, rocks, and gravel Nitrates are removed by plants/algae, water changes, Products such as Purigen, or de-nitrification by anaerobic bacteria deep under sand or in products such as Matrix or Volcanic Rock. Anaerobic de-nitrification then converts the nitrates to free nitrogen which is bubbled off. Besides the articles Devon gave you, this article might help too: www.fishbeginner.info/home/nitrogen-cycle/Product Resources: *Purigen www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Seachem.html#purigen*Volcanic Rock www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Volcanicrock.htmlCarl
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Post by Ameenah on Jun 12, 2014 18:17:22 GMT -5
Thank you for your responses and link sharing.
I fixed the video links - some day I might get the videos to upload correctly. Thank you Devon for pointing out the link issue.
I know that the FSB Filter will need to start fresh once I have a pump giving me the flow rate I need. I am considering a different medium for the FSB Filter. For now, the medium is cleaned and placed in a bowl - not in a tank. I need to decide either reuse the medium I have, or go with something else fairly soon. I know my SunSun canister is great but i prefer filter redundancy and want the FSB Filter up and running as soon as possible.
I get that I had the wrong reasoning on the hydrogen sulfide (black areas in the middle to bottom of the substrate) , and thank you both for the links to re-read. Still in all the hydrogen sulfide can develop in poor water circulation, and the huge increase in aeration does get the water moving quite well IMO. I strongly believe that with a defective pump and the depth of my tank, that My tank had poor circulation which contributed to the hydrogen sulfide pockets. My canister - which operates independently from my FSB Filter could not get the volume of water to circulate fast enough; thus leaving areas of the tank in near stagnation.
I am new to tanks of this size and have never experienced the hydrogen sulfide issues before. Water parameters are quite good, as I mentioned earlier and I have no other explanation on the black pockets of substrate. For now, the high levels of aeration are really making the water circulate well, and there are no signs of black pockets.
I thank you both again for your concerns, clarifications and link sharing to excellent articles.
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Post by Ameenah on Jun 15, 2014 12:24:57 GMT -5
Today, 6-15-14, I finally added the check valves to the Rena 400 air tubing. I run off both air outputs - using a gang valve to control air flow to the various air stones. My air check valves are Lee's cat # 12405. Once both were installed, on the air tubing between the pump and the gang valve, I worked on adjusting the air coming out of the air stones again. I now have significantly less air flow - determined by the output of air bubbles.
The cause of the decreased air flow is the check valves.
The question I have is: would a more powerful pump (like the Fusion 700 at American Aquarium Products Website) be needed to get the air output back up to the flow I had before installing the air check valves; or, is there an air check valve that permits a greater air flow through it?
Note: since adding the 4 air stones with high air flow the ammonia is steady at the <0.02. as per my Sea Chem ammonia alert device.
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Post by Carl on Jun 15, 2014 14:00:06 GMT -5
The question I have is: would a more powerful pump (like the Fusion 700 at American Aquarium Products Website) be needed to get the air output back up to the flow I had before installing the air check valves; or, is there an air check valve that permits a greater air flow through it? Note: since adding the 4 air stones with high air flow the ammonia is steady at the <0.02. as per my Sea Chem ammonia alert device. Yes adding the Fusion 700 should bring back your air flow, however another "trick" is to simply loop your tubing about two rotations above the water level (& pin it up so it will stay put). This is about 99% sure as to preventing a water back up (100% sure from my use, I only put 99% because once someone claimed it did not work, but I suspect it was not done correctly). You ammonia level is perfect as a healthy aquarium is going to have some measurable ammoni and will also naturally fluctuate, often even within the same day Carl
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