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Post by Carl on Dec 3, 2013 20:33:36 GMT -5
We have once more updated our "UV Sterilization; UV Sterilizer use in Aquarium or Pond" article. Continued changes to the layout are being made. Also further information about determining the best UV Sterilizer were added. Further information about why one should NOT purchase a Turbo Twist UV were also added www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Feb 8, 2014 16:46:04 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Apr 22, 2014 18:52:03 GMT -5
I updated the UV Sterilization for Ponds or Aquarium article once more with more information and a new picture/diagram Here is a new quote: The diagram/picture above left provides some flow rates for high pressure pond/pool pumps rated in HP (horse power) rather than flow rates that are occasionally used in larger ponds. This diagram can help determine flow rates at certain head pressures if you own such a pump (please click to enlarge). It is noteworthy that these pumps in 1/2 HP or higher do not even loose flow to head pressure until after 12 feet of head.Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on May 15, 2014 19:08:19 GMT -5
I have once more updated the "Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilization" article. Including this quote from the Myths section: " A UV sterilizer will not kill beneficial bacteria such aerobic bacteria, as this bacterium is effective when attached to a surface of high water flow such as the sponge of a sponge filter, not when in the water column. In fact relatively new scientific evidence shows nitrifying bacteria to be sticky and adheres to the surfaces like glue this is why the myth of UV Sterilizers killing beneficial bacteria is just that, a myth. It still may be best to turn off a Sterilizer unit when introducing bacteria in liquid form to seed a new aquarium.
As well, best results are achieved if the UV Sterilizer is place AFTER a filter when placed in line. Example; if used with a canister filter or Fluidized Sand Bed Filter, the level one capable UV Sterilizer should be the LAST device prior to water being returned back to the aquarium. Better results yet are achieved if the filter running ahead of the UV is a micron filter."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.htmlPlease consider sharing this via Facebook, personal blogs, etc, as this article has still pretty much disappeared from Google ever since it was plagiarized by about.com almost a year ago (about.com long ago corrected this, but Google has not) Carl
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Post by Carl on Oct 31, 2014 16:10:17 GMT -5
I updated the UV Sterilization; Fact & Information article in several sections This includes adding more to the "Forward" to counter the bs attacks on my credibility in so many other forums Quote: "As a reader, please follow the references cited, please also apply common sense logic too, as many of the concepts applied in this article do NOT require parking one's brain. For the critics of what products are promoted, of course I promote products, as I run a businsess. HOWEVER, I have professional experience dating back to 1978 (longer in the hobby), and I have used and experimented with most well known brands with literally over 1000 applications. This includes the Aquanetics UV, Aqua UV, Lifeguard, Tetra UV Turbo Twist UV, Laguna UV, Emperor UV, and MANY others. The UVs I promote cover different niches from lower end to higher end. One thing all have in common is they work within their niche. This does not mean a SunSun Compact is as good as a TMC Vecton, Aqua Classic, or any other premium high dwell time UV, but it is the best or equal to the best of the Compact UV niche. Some of those I do not promote simply do not work. In many cases other UVs I do not promote do work well, however after years of experience, I found a better product in terms of either effectiveness, value, or parts availability the better choice for my maintenance clients (example the TMC line over the Aqua or Emperor line of UVs)."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Nov 21, 2014 9:59:09 GMT -5
We have updated our UV Sterilizer Use article, which is one of our most updated and researched articles. This includes a new picture/diagram showing a recommended flow pattern using two UV Sterilizers on a larger aquarium (or pond) Here is the section of the article this is found in: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#examplesCarl
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Post by Carl on May 9, 2015 11:03:13 GMT -5
I have updated the UV Sterilization; Sterilizer Use article once more! Here is a snip from the article (from the Myths/Facts section): "A UV sterilizer will not kill ich trophozoites or similar parasites already on the fish- TRUE; however then most medications don't either, but the use of UVC can again slow the spread of ich tomites in the water column (but usually not out right kill ich tomites). HOWEVER by virtue of water quality improvement (such as Redox Potential/Balance) and lowering of pathogenic bacteria, the fish has more natural resistance to fight Marine Cryptocaryon or FW Ich. This is a fact as per controlled tests I performed in the 1990s!
This is why simply improving fish immunity by running a UV Sterilizer at Level 1 often helps with Ich prevention and why a GOOD UV Sterilizer should be a considered just one tool for Ich prevention, NEVER the only tool.
Even when run at a low flow rate (8-12 gph per watt depending upon UV Sterilizer for level 2), a UV Sterilizer cannot kill all Ich or Crytocaryon Tomites or Oodinium Dinoflagellates in the water column, as it is impossible to force all these Tomites to pass through the UV. However increasing the aquarium turnover rate through the UV Sterilizer (2-3 times per hour or more), increases the number of these Ick Tomites or Dinoflagellates killed. As well pre-filtration, especially with a micron filter placed before the UV Sterilizer can further improve effectiveness of the UV. A micron filter of 10 microns is very effective by itself, but can lower flow since it is very fine, so often a 50 micron pre-filter will suffice when combined with a high dwell time UV run at level 2 Sterilization"Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#uvfactscarl
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Post by Carl on May 20, 2015 14:21:17 GMT -5
I have further updated/refined my Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilization article. This update includes a refining of my commentary to deal with the constant hate directed at me from many forums (one in particular of late), where they attack me personally and refuse to accept that maybe my 35 years experience and 1000s of contracted aquariums under maintenance might mean something. "EDITORIAL/COMMENTS
By using low end equipment such as "Killing Machines" that might ONLY clear the water and then claiming these did nothing to protect the health of their fish is NOT a scientific argument against these devices.
As well despite these long term observable and researched facts, many still will deny these benefits other than clarification. This problem of denying facts while often making "Ad Hominem" attacks such as claiming articles like this are "based on selling this equipment" is unfortunately still quite common, often in anecdotal or unmoderated, "cut & paste information" forums that are unfortunately quite popular.
Such "Ad Hominem" attacks are akin this example; PERSON 1: “I think Volvos are fine automobiles.” PERSON 2: “Of course you’d say that; you’re from Sweden.” Reference: Logical Fallacies
What is also noteworthy throughout this article is I DO provide references, and yes a lot of information is based on my own vast experience and experiments. My goal with my large aquarium/pond maintenance company was to be more profitable by cutting back on disease incidence, water clarity issues and more, as most of my clients were under a contract that included replacement of stock. So in the end if you were to "follow the money", my financial incentive was NOT to sell UVs, rather to to put together a system that worked and which included far more than UV sterilizers, such as quarantine, feeding, water parameters, etc. So for those rude individuals who use "appeal to authority" logical fallacies and call this article "hand wavy", fine, but for those who have more respect for other's decades of work and experience, I am simply reporting on my findings, both researched and anecdotal (but anecdotal based on 1000s of aquariums)."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Jun 17, 2015 15:47:29 GMT -5
We have made a few more updated to the "Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilizer Use/Information" Article. Including the maintenance section. Here is a snip from this section: "If your UV has a quartz sleeve it is important to clean the quartz sleeve when changing your bulb or at least every other bulb change, this is especially important with pond UVs. Otherwise your bulb change will not be very useful. Often the lamp glow will be get more dim with a quartz sleeve that is coated with hard water deposits and/or dirt/mulm."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#uvmaintenanceCarl
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Post by Carl on Jul 10, 2015 12:30:16 GMT -5
I have further updated our popular UV Sterilization/Sterilizer Use article. Here is a snip from the mounting; Vertical or Horizontal section: "This is a commonly asked question as to which is better. The answer is quite simple and applies to virtually every model UV Sterilizer I have used, regardless of brand and that is horizontal is better! This does not mean a vertical application cannot work as I have mounted plenty of UVs this way.
I know that some manufacturers even recommend a vertical over horizontal mounting application, so let me explain why: With the vertical application it is quite common to get an air pocket at the top of the UV, this results in a small fraction of the lamp not exposed to water thus diminishing dwell time, simple as that. Again this is generally only a small area if any that does not provide full water exposure to UVC, but if one is looking for the best results and both mounting options are viable, always go with horizontal. However if the choice is between vertical, not a UV at all, or some cheap UV that fits horizontally (rather than a quality UV such as a TMC Vecton/Advantage, Aqua UV, or Emperor UV), then by all means mount vertically!!!"Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#mountingCarl
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Post by Carl on Jul 25, 2015 18:28:29 GMT -5
I have updated the Maintenance section of the UV Sterilizer Use article. Here is a quote from the article: "Bulb: Check your UV Bulb/Lamp every month if possible. More importantly; CHANGE your bulb every 6 months for aquariums, and also every 6 months for ponds in warm climates where there is no winter freeze. In cool climates a pond UV bulb can be changed every season (usually late spring/ early summer), however as your pond UV Sterilizer approaches a year, your UV-C Lamp is only emitting about 25% of the correct UVC energy, so changing a pond UV bulb once per year say in Sept. will not be of much benefit since it will be very inefficient when you need it most (the warm/hot months of summer).
Replacement Bulb/Lamp Warnings!
Be wary of the popular use of medium pressure UV Bulbs that produce only about 10% true UVC wavelengths versus the better low pressure UV bulbs/lamps which produce 3.5 times the important UVC wave lengths. Originally many of the medium pressure bulbs were deigned for "nail curing" where lower output is actually desired, however many sellers of UV bulbs for aquariums/ponds have now taken to selling these due to the much lower cost. This is very common with discounters, Amazon, & eBay sellers. Purchasing these bulbs results in a UV Sterilizer that is much less effective (if at all for anything other than some clarification), which then saving $10 results in making your UV Sterilizer not much more than a filter with a "pretty blue light". "Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#uvmaintenanceCarl
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Post by Carl on Sept 1, 2015 17:31:13 GMT -5
I have updated and corrected a mistake in my Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilization Here is a snip from the article "The design of the unit should only allow a gap of 3 mm or less between the bulb or quartz sleeve and the wall of the unit for effective contact and temperature.
This is where Aquarium Canister UVs, 'Hang-On Back' UV Filters, Most Submersible/Internal UVs, and Pressurized Pond Filters (such as the Aquael, Nursery Pro, even the newer Via Aqua) fail miserably as there is too large a gap, and in general a poor flow design around the bulb/quartz sleeve (as well as flow rates far exceeding UVC bulb wattage capabilities)"Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Oct 29, 2015 11:40:47 GMT -5
I have updated the Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilization article, in particular the section about UVC Penetration. Here is a quote from this section: "Another aspect that might be important for us to visualize is the 254nm UVC light photon is more energetic than say 350 or 450nm blue light, with a higher frequency. This more energetic photon can deliver more energy and has the potential to pass through water better/faster than lower frequency photons of light energy. A higher watt UV bulb/lamp is going to produce more of these energetic photons and have more ability to penetrate and thus sterilize better and at higher flow rates/water volumes.
Another point to understand that while photons travel in a straight line in a vacuum, in our UV Sterilizers filled with water these photons do not all travel in a straight line. As well, unlike red light which has a low frequency, low energy, long wavelength and can bend around things and go through things without harming them; UVC being a higher frequency has more vibration and a higher chance of interaction with any given particle. This is important as this can explain why more direct surface area provides better dwell time and most importantly why my 1000s of observations and dozens of test have shown that such UV Sterilizers have BETTER RESULTS!!
Here is a quote from Photon Energy, Mass, Velocity And Wavelength: "The great difference between bullets and photons is their inverse size to mass ratio. The photons with the smallest wavelengths have the greatest mass and energy and the very largest photons have fleetingly small masses and energies. If guns shot photons, a BB gun would have the power of a large artillery shell and the battleship Missouri’s 16 inch guns would eject soap bubbles." Since UVC is a smaller wavelength, it is going behave in ways stated in this quote and why we cannot think of UVC light energy in one dimensional, linear ways."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#penetrationCarl
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Post by Carl on Jan 17, 2016 20:18:13 GMT -5
I updated the Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilizer use article once more the other day. Here is a quote from the "Attributes" section of why to use: "Stop the spread of toxic red tide dinoflagellates which can make humans very ill and has recently been shown to infect home/office marine aquariums. These red tide dinoflagellates have been shown to be effectively destroyed by either level one or higher UV Sterilization or an ozonizer connected to a Protein Skimmer (much more so than by chlorine)."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on May 5, 2016 8:49:43 GMT -5
I have made several more updates to the "Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilization" article. Here is an excerpt from the article (from the "What is a quality UV Sterilizer" section): Build Quality: ALL of the very low cost to even better economy UV Sterilizers (such as AAP/SunSun Terminator UVs), do not have the build quality that will last years along with readily available parts when there is the rare need for repair. Basically even the AAP/SunSun Terminators that I also sell are a throw away UV that may last a few years. Compare this to am AAP/TMC Vecton or Advantage UV that not only provides a much higher level of sterilization, but will likely last you a decade or even more. www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#uvqualityCarl
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Post by Carl on Jun 16, 2016 16:57:59 GMT -5
I have updated the Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilization article. Here is an excerpt from the UV maintenance section: "Quartz Sleeve; If your UV has a quartz sleeve it is important to clean the quartz sleeve when changing your bulb or at least every other bulb change, this is especially important with pond UVs. Otherwise your bulb change will not be very useful. Often the lamp glow will be get more dim with a quartz sleeve that is coated with hard water deposits and/or dirt/mulm. This need for cleaning becomes a MUST with pond use, and in my experience wipers do not alleviate the need for cleaning. So do NOT purchase a UV Sterilizer for a pond and not expect to have to clean this part, sometimes even more often than a bulb/lamp change in high bio ponds!! "Carl
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Post by Carl on Jun 4, 2017 10:42:54 GMT -5
I have updated the Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilization/Sterilizer Use article. Here is an excerpt from the Overview section: "This first picture to the left demonstrates the anti-oxidizing abilities of a true level one capable UV Sterilizer utilizing a HO UVC Lamp (note that the majority of lamps sold now are medium pressure UV lamps with 1/4 the UVC output). Using Potassium Permanganate, which is an oxidizer in both a control tank (left tank) and one utilizing an AAP Compact UV with a HO UVC Lamp (right tank). As Potassium Permanganate is reduced, it goes from red to brown to clear. It is easy to see that the UV Sterilizer tank goes through these stages well ahead of the control tank. The implications demonstrate a true UV Sterilizer's ability to lower oxidative stress on fish and other inhabitants (including plants & corals) and work to provide a better Redox balance as well as known disease prevention & clarification abilities."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Jun 15, 2017 12:26:07 GMT -5
I have further updated the article about the use of aquarium UV Sterilizers in aquariums & ponds Here is an excerpt from the section dealing with figuring out the optimum flow rate: "This table assumes:
1) Low water turbidity, meaning pre-filtration & a healthy bio filter. A UV Sterilizer will easily work twice as hard or more (requiring double the normal wattage or more) if your bio filter is not adequate and water turbidity is high; this is especially a common problem with ponds. 2) A water temperature between 20 C (68 F) and 40 C (104 F) 3) A gap of 3 cm or less between the bulb or quartz sleeve and the wall of the unit 4) A reasonable dwell time, as most low cost, filter equipped UVs, and submersible UVs have poor dwell time Reference: UV Sterilizer Dwell Time 5) A GOOD water flow pattern inside the aquarium or pond. 6) A clean Quartz sleeve/lamp 7) A hot cathode Low Pressure UV bulb/lamp with less than 6 months continuous use (NOT an old or cheap medium pressure UV bulb now so often sold on the Internet for $10 or less!!) If a medium pressure bulb is used (commonly sold at discounters), you will need divide the maximum flow rate by 1/3 to 1/4. Example: If you use a 9 watt UV lamp commonly sold on eBay for $6-$12, an optimum flow rate goes from 225 gph to under 75 gph for minimum level one sterilization!"Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#flowtableCarl
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Post by Carl on Jan 16, 2018 13:47:48 GMT -5
I once again have updated the Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilization article, in particular the Facts/Myths about UV-C Sterilization section Here is an excerpt: "(13) A UV Sterilizer labeled for Pond Use is more effective and will stand up to weather better- MOSTLY FALSE; This is a common sales gimmick that a pond UV is more effective as per sterilization. In fact the opposite is actually true since these generally have larger chambers to allow for the larger water volumes generally common in pond applications. This results is a greater distance from the UVC lamp source and thus lower sterilization for a given flow rate. This holds true for my personal pond UV favorite, the "AAP/TMC Pond Advantage", so do not purchase a Pond Advantage thinking it will do a better job for the same given wattage and flow rate (this does not mean they will not work well though).
The other aspect is this myth is only partly false (or partly true). Many persons will pay much higher prices for Pond UV Sterilizers/Clarifiers thinking these will stand up better as per durability to outdoor use. Most often these have heavier duty and thicker walls which do absolutely NOTHING! What does make a difference is that some pond UVs have better protection for electrical components and thus will have a lower chance of failure due to damage such as water from sprinkler, rain, or snow melt. HOWEVER, my vast experience with literally 100s of pond UVs has shown that even these better "insulated" UVs will often fail if placed in the open. The facts are that any UV used in a pond application should be placed in a reasonably weather/sprinkler/water protected area near the pond. This again goes for the AAP/TMC Pond Advantage UVs that I obviously promote in this article, DESPITE misinformed information by it's manufacturer."Carl
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Post by Carl on Mar 26, 2018 9:32:32 GMT -5
I have further updated the popular AAP article about Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilization & Sterilizer UseHere is an excerpt from the section about "What makes a quality UV Sterilizer""Be careful of some of the cheap UV sterilizers currently flooding the market generally for under $50 usd, such as the Aqua Medic, Sunterra, Green Killing Machine, Jebo, AquaTop, etc., as noted earlier there is not one of these that can perform level 1 UV Sterilization. Our aquarium/pond service has experienced poor results with these units (leakage, poor sterilization patterns, low quality ballasts, & more). If you obtain one of these units, you CANNOT make a fair assessment of what UV Sterilization can really do for your aquarium or pond.
A recent social media conversation I had showed the lack of understanding of what you get with these cheap UVs. He argued that for $30-$40 he could get a 9 watt UV Sterilizer at Amazon and compared this to the AAP Vecton Model 200 at $150. He stated that even if just 80% as effective he would be ahead on the deal via Amazon. Problem is, these cheap UVs utilize low cost medium pressure UV lamps with only 25% of the UVC output of a HO low pressure lamp. Then add in at best 50% of the dwell time and you are at just 1/8 the effectiveness and this $150 Vecton is the same value of an Amazon UV sold at $18.75 (as per the math). Throw in a lifespan of 7-10 years versus 1-2 years for these cheap Chinese models sold via Amazon/eBay and this is a no brainer. It is also noteworthy that these cheap UVs are not sterilizers, these are clarifiers only (& not good ones at that!)
The bottom line is if the UV seems "too cheap", there is most likely a good reason such as with the PFUV-40 Hang on the Back Filter with UV at price of $50; For $50 you are not going to get an effective filter and most definitely NOT a Level One UV Sterilizer!!."Carl
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