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Post by Carl on Apr 16, 2012 19:48:21 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Jun 22, 2012 13:36:14 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Nov 12, 2012 15:56:53 GMT -5
I have further updated the Aquarium Filters, Filtration article, in particular the canister filter section with new as well as deleted out of date information. Carl
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Post by Carl on Nov 28, 2012 20:32:55 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Feb 24, 2013 18:40:04 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Apr 5, 2013 19:31:23 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Feb 25, 2015 20:47:34 GMT -5
I have updated the "Aquarium Filtration, Filter Use" article Here is an excerpt from the overview section "I attempt to give practical and educated/professional tips to getting the most out of your filter. I attempt to avoid the anecdotal reviews that permeate much of the internet such as those surrounding the Rena Smart HOB filter where uninformed users give negative reviews of what is in reality the positive of this filter: its unmatched HOB filter efficiency (see the HOB filter section for more). This is why I strongly recommend readers avoid the popular Internet trend of customer reviews (such as on Amazon), as what I have found is often persons are simply not using their products correctly (in negative reviews) or are giving positive reviews of equipment based on initial use, however long term use often reveals a short lived defective product (such as the plethora of Internal UVs or the Turbo-Twist)"Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Filtration.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Mar 17, 2015 19:23:16 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Jul 17, 2015 16:01:47 GMT -5
I updated the Aquarium Filtration/Filters article once more. Some of the update included the Under Gravel Filter section. Here is a snip from this section: "Another style of under gravel filter that was somewhat popular in the 1970s into the early 80s was the tube style. These tubes could be plastic or sometimes homemade from PVC pipes with slits or holes cut on the bottom for intake of water through the gravel. These have been brought back to life recently by at least one company I know of.
I had extensive experience using these in the 1970s into the 80s and in every case the flow pattern and resulting bio filtration was poor compared to other under gravel filter designs. Worse, I found these types of under gravel filters tended to allow the accumulation of organic matter that would in turn attract Saprolegnia growths. In EVERY case when I removed these filters for even another under gravel filter, the problems with Saprolegnia and other opportunistic diseases improved. About the only positive of these tube style UG filters is they work better for planted tanks as they do not interfere with roots as much as other designs."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Filtration.html#ugfCarl
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Post by Carl on Jul 29, 2015 9:46:46 GMT -5
I have updated the Aquarium Filters/Filtration article. Here is a snip from the FSB Section: "I fact in lieu of often expensive canister filters such as the Eheim 2080 or the Fluval FX5 & FX6, I would strongly recommend to invest in a smaller canister filter (such as the SunSun HW303B or Eheim Classic models 2015-2017) and then place the Fluidized Filter in-line after this Canister Filter. This is the most efficient use of a FSB filter, since it combines the benefits of a canister filter, including good pre-filtration with the benefits of a FSB filter which includes unsurpassed bio filtration that even the largest canister filters cannot match! Generally this vastly superior bio filtration combination will cost considerably less than the over rated Fluval FX6.
OR simply do away with sometimes cumbersome canister filters completely and place your Fluidized Filter in-line to a power head (the addition of a pre-filter sponge is recommended for best results) or Internal Filter (most though do not have the head pressure/flow rate to power FB Filters). Then provide additional aeration/agitation with an air pump or sponge filter driven by an air pump. Keeping in mind that the basic canister filter/FSB Filter combination still works best based on 100s of applications I have installed."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Filtration.html#fluidizedCarl
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Post by Carl on Nov 4, 2015 12:36:37 GMT -5
I updated the "Aquarium Filters/Filtration" article, in particular the section about canister filter troubleshooting Here is a snip from this section: "Constant Problems with Leaks & More; Make sure ANY time you service your canister filter that you pressure test it by blow or better, but creating a suction with your mouth, if this suction even slightly decreases, you HAVE a small leak. Canister Filter Pressure Test, blowing and suction
Finally, and I apologize to my readers in advance for this observation which may come across as harsh; I have maintained literally 1000s of canister filters over the years for clients, often these were clients that were hands off, but still many were clients who called me only when there were problems. When it came to canister filters, and while I myself made mistakes when servicing, there was a certain percentage of clients that always had problems with canister filters for reasons I am still to this day not sure why. I would get the filter working, then when the customer serviced it alone, it would have issues once more until I came out once again. This cycled seemed to constantly repeat. My unfortunately harsh point is that canister filters are not for everyone and if you have a filter that constantly frustrates you, please consider a HOB or Sponge Filter instead. "Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Filtration.html#canistertroubleCarl
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Post by Carl on Dec 22, 2015 12:24:02 GMT -5
I updated the "Aquarium Filters/Filtration" article, again in particular the section about canister filter troubleshooting Here is a quote: "Crack in Canister Body; This need not always be time to throw away your canister filter or even purchase a new body. I personally have salvaged many canister filters with minor and even moderate cracks by applying PVC cement followed by Teflon Tap along the crack followed by 1 or 2 more layers using this method. The fix is generally permanent as I have had canister filters last for years after such repairs.
Of course you want to avoid cracks in the first place and other than dropping the filter, the most common cause is improperly clamping the motor down to the filter body placing too much strain on the body. Make sure you lubricate O rings with Petroleum Jelly each time the filter is serviced so that the top motor slips onto the body easily. If the motor does not slip on easily, do not force it and check for problems."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Filtration.html#canistertroubleCarl
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Post by Carl on May 16, 2016 16:58:47 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Nov 15, 2016 13:37:02 GMT -5
I have updated the "Aquarium Filtration" article Check out the troubleshooting sections of each type, as this is VERY helpful, regardless of brand Here is an excerpt from the Canister Filter troubleshooting section: " Dead Pump Motor/ Head; pump motor failure whether due to a jammed impeller from an overheat or many other reasons (4 out 5 failures over the years have been Fluvals) can still be solved without throwing out your canister filter. Simply by replacing your filters intake strainer with a power head such as the Rio Plus 1100 or SunSun JP-066, will immediately bring your canister filter back to life with a filter that no longer requires priming!!
Product Resources: *Rio 1100 Aquarium Water Pump *SunSun JP-066 (Replaces Via Aqua 306)" Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Filtration.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Jan 25, 2017 12:21:07 GMT -5
I have updated the Aquarium Filters/Filtration article. While the article is more subjective than most, it still has some proven objective Troubleshooting sections, in particular the Canister Filter Troubleshooting section (these filters continue to be one that seems to cause issues even for more otherwise experienced aquarium keepers) Here is an excerpt from this section: Impeller/Motor will not start or slow motor:
A; Follow the siphon issues suggestions for this problem too, as 9 times out of 10 when I was called out for a weak or dead pump, there was a clog in the intake or output lines. Once the output lines are below the aquarium, a siphon should move water with a strong flow (this often will clear the lines without you knowing it). Next remove water from both lines and blowing through to confirm no clog. Either way if the water flows slowly or it is difficult to blow, you have a clog and NOT a bad motor!!
B; Check inside the impeller housing with your little finger and feel for deformities, this is generally not repairable if found (Fluvals are notorious for impeller housing warping). Also make sure that the impeller does not free spin and locks before turning more than 360 degrees.
C; You can check for magnetic current by placing a screw driver in side the impeller housing with the impeller out and the motor ‘on’ (this test does not work with the pump off), you should feel a magnetic pull from all sides. While few dead spots are normal, there should still be an overall 360 degree pull. Having a baseline of knowing what your motor magnetic current pull should "feel like" is helpful for telling if the pump is weak (which is rare)
D; Make sure clean your impeller EVERY time you open the filter for servicing (if at all possible). This includes the impeller itself AND the inside walls of the "impeller well" (the hole the impeller sits inside of).Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Filtration.html#canistertroubleCarl
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Post by Carl on Apr 23, 2017 10:38:58 GMT -5
I have further updated the "Aquarium Filtration/Filter" article. Here is an excerpt from the overview section (as per a few points): "4) As with Medication/Treatment Charts, I do NOT agree with charts or calculators for matching filtration to aquarium bio loads, as everyone I have ever seen is severely flawed, often then providing a false sense of security. I have been contacted many times over the years as to fish aquarium problems where the bio load exceeded capacity by persons who have used such charts. As with medications, I think it is FAR MORE IMPORTANT TO EDUCATE a new aquarium keeper to ALL aspects of aquarium keeping then recommend a good mentor for suggestions with their aquarium set up."reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Filtration.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on May 6, 2017 10:12:59 GMT -5
I have updated the Aquarium Filtration article once more. Here is an excerpt from the article: "SEACHEM TIDAL FILTER; This is a newer entry into the premium aquarium HOB power filter niche from a company already known for their quality products & information. The feedback from professionals is so far good, & I am currently testing the filter too This filter takes many of the concepts from the Aqua Clear as well as the newer Tetra/Whispers and improves on them and provides a top notch 3 year warranty to back these filters up. What I like is is it uses the concept of multi media use in a larger capacity filter similar to the AquaClear, but then provide a better tray feature, skimming, a maintenance monitor shows when the filter basket needs cleaning, better self priming motor, and simply a more solidly built filter. However one of the negatives also found in the AquaClear is found in this filter and that is its "flow by" is higher and fine particulate mechanical filtration is not as good as many other HOB filters Time will tell on its durability as while I have used literally 100s of Aqua Clear filters over the years, I do not have this experience of time & numbers with this filter, but based on my experience of using many different HOB Filters over the years, I expect this filter to not only stand up as the premier HOB filter in its class, but also be a durably long lasting filter too!"Reference (from the HOB Section): www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Filtration.html#hobCarl
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Post by Carl on Oct 28, 2017 12:34:49 GMT -5
I have once more updated this article about aquarium filters/filtration Here are a couple of excerpts: "I fact in lieu of often expensive canister filters such as the Eheim 2080 or the Fluval FX5 & FX6, I would strongly recommend to invest in a smaller canister filter (such as the SunSun HW303B or Eheim Classic models 2015-2017) and then place the Fluidized Filter in-line after this Canister Filter. Using a FSB Filter/Reactor with a canister filter combines the benefits of a canister filter, including good pre-filtration with the benefits of a FSB filter which includes unsurpassed bio filtration that even the largest canister filters cannot match! Generally this vastly superior bio filtration combination will cost considerably less than the over rated Fluval FX6."AND "As for the ever popular Fluval, I am often left scratching my head as to its popularity, as I have literally used 100s over the years in my maintenance business and found these to have poor head pressure, poor flow patterns and are unreliable at a higher rate than others, even some economy models such as the SunSun have proven to be equal to or better reliability. Does this mean those who have had good luck are wrong? No, but when one has used a 1-5 of these filters versus 100s, I get to more fairly compare flaws/defect rates. In the end the Fluval is simply an economy canister filter masquerading/marketed as a top notch premium filter."Carl
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Post by Carl on Nov 29, 2017 10:11:29 GMT -5
I have further updated the Aquarium Filtration/Filters article Here is an excerpt from the Sump/Wet-Dry section: Pure Sump.
Often a wet/dry is not your best choice, where as a sump that technically has no "wet/dry" aspect. the obvious and proven issues with wet/dry is that these can be nitrate factories
Saltwater Aquarium Sump, Marine Algae Scrubber, Deep Sand, RefugiumThis diagram displays a more advanced marine aquarium sump that does NOT employ a wet/dry aspect (which IMO/experience is outdated and much less efficient). Please note this can be utilized for freshwater too, simply a freshwater refugium and use of a FSB Filter only in slot 4.
This sump includes:
* Glass or acrylic plates mounted to provide an optimum flow pattern * An AAP Hydro Pond Pre-Filter in the first chamber * Crushed Coral crumbles for bio filtration, both aerobic and anaerobic (as well as some mechanical filtration) * A combination deep sand bed and refugium for further nitrate control * Final chamber with AAP Rio HF Pump for circulation as well as an AAP/TMC Premium V2 Skim marine protein skimmer and/or a FSB Filter Reactor * An AAP/TMC GroBeam or Marine White Premium High efficiency/high output LED light is also employed for refugium.www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Filtration.htmlCarl
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rogierfvv
Full Member
3rd time around aquarium keeper, observer, learner
Posts: 84
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Post by rogierfvv on Apr 15, 2018 10:38:06 GMT -5
I have once more updated this article about aquarium filters/filtration Here are a couple of excerpts: "I fact in lieu of often expensive canister filters such as the Eheim 2080 or the Fluval FX5 & FX6, I would strongly recommend to invest in a smaller canister filter (such as the SunSun HW303B or Eheim Classic models 2015-2017) and then place the Fluidized Filter in-line after this Canister Filter. Using a FSB Filter/Reactor with a canister filter combines the benefits of a canister filter, including good pre-filtration with the benefits of a FSB filter which includes unsurpassed bio filtration that even the largest canister filters cannot match! Generally this vastly superior bio filtration combination will cost considerably less than the over rated Fluval FX6."AND "As for the ever popular Fluval, I am often left scratching my head as to its popularity, as I have literally used 100s over the years in my maintenance business and found these to have poor head pressure, poor flow patterns and are unreliable at a higher rate than others, even some economy models such as the SunSun have proven to be equal to or better reliability. Does this mean those who have had good luck are wrong? No, but when one has used a 1-5 of these filters versus 100s, I get to more fairly compare flaws/defect rates. In the end the Fluval is simply an economy canister filter masquerading/marketed as a top notch premium filter."Carl
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