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Post by parker002 on Feb 13, 2012 11:45:11 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm looking now at replacing the 5000K with a 6500K which would give me 108W of T5 HO and 30W of T8, all 6500K.
That's really, outside of the number of snails, all that is different.
Eventually, I think I'm going to have to invest in more light. I wish my Coralife held 4 bulbs instead of just 2.
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Post by parker002 on Feb 14, 2012 18:34:52 GMT -5
Maybe it's time to spring for LED...either that or start back up with trying to build a CFL/SHO fixture...
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Post by parker002 on Feb 14, 2012 18:45:39 GMT -5
Here's a thought. I could replace the two 24" single T8 fixtures with two 20" dual incandescent fixtures. Each one of them is setup for 2x25W, which means I could put 23W CFL bulbs in them and increase my light output from 30W to 92W.
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Post by parker002 on Feb 14, 2012 19:11:11 GMT -5
Here's another thought - I could build a "strip" light out of a $10 white T8 reflector that holds 2 double screw-in sockets per side - with 26W CFLs, that would give me a potential to effectively double what I have now.
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Post by parker002 on Feb 14, 2012 19:21:57 GMT -5
I'm not so sure I couldn't get 6 bulbs into the space - the fixture could be roughly 46" long and 10" deep and still fit in my canopy.
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Post by Carl on Feb 14, 2012 20:16:40 GMT -5
I think any of these methods will work, although for the effort and expense of the multiple CFLs, I think the SHOs or High Output LEDs would be a better bet. Regardless of how to retrofit this, I would suggest using mylar to reflect the light (Restrike), otherwise a lot of CFL or SHO energy can be lost and white reflectors do not do as well IMHO (LEDs due not need refelctors by virtue of the more focused emitters) Carl
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Post by parker002 on Feb 14, 2012 22:38:39 GMT -5
The problem with LED is the cost, really.
I could do something with CFL much more cheaply.
I wonder if I could fit 8 SHO bulbs into that space, since they're 10" x 4"?
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Post by parker002 on Feb 15, 2012 8:33:10 GMT -5
I really like the idea of doing all LEDs and ditching the Coralife but I think I really need two 2x12 GroBeams, which would be over $500.
I really don't want to cobble something together.
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Post by parker002 on Feb 15, 2012 8:55:17 GMT -5
Screw it, I've been wringing my hands about my lighting for the ENTIRE time I've been here. It's time for me to stop whining. I'm gonna start scraping together the money and go with two of the GroBeam Duo's. That would give me 48W which is nearly 1W/gallon. EDIT: For the money, it looks like two GroBeam 1000's would actually be a better buy. 60W total for just about $25 more, possibly easier to mount, and would scale better if I ever decided to up-size to 75 or 90G.
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Post by Carl on Feb 15, 2012 11:51:23 GMT -5
The problem with LED is the cost, really. I could do something with CFL much more cheaply. I wonder if I could fit 8 SHO bulbs into that space, since they're 10" x 4"? If you go with SHOs, all you would need is 2-3 (depending upon wattage used) to accomplish what you need. However the GroBeam 500s or 1000s would still work best. Carl
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Post by parker002 on Feb 15, 2012 12:30:46 GMT -5
I just don't have the patience and time to do something myself.
I'm gonna go with the GroBeam 1000's. If I want them to basically fit in the space my Coralife does today, what else do I need? Can I mount them with a set of MountRay's and a single 43" rail?
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Post by parker002 on Feb 15, 2012 15:54:12 GMT -5
It looks like the MountaRay brackets are designed for rimless tanks so I'd have to modify them to fit on the tank rim - I don't want to do that. Not sure how I would mount these things - I really don't want to mount them in the canopy since I often remove it for long periods of time. EDIT: I take that back. The only time I remove the canopy is when I'm messing with things and quite frankly, I need to NOT mess with things. There is 8" between the underside of my canopy and the top of my tank (about 9" to the actual surface of the water). Is that pretty ideal for just mounting them inside the canopy? I could also mount them "shower curtain rod" style so that they're mounted on a rail which fits into "slots" on each side. That would make them easily removable if I did want to remove the canopy for some reason.
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Post by Carl on Feb 18, 2012 12:12:49 GMT -5
Sorry I did not reply (I kept replies to the PMs). But for other potential readers I thought I would add some information. Currently the MountaRays are designed for rimless tanks (which IMO was not really "thinking" on TMCs part since most tanks have rims or trimming). These can be made to work via cutting the trim on the aquarium then attaching the LED MountaRay and Rails to the aquarium. My preference is either to Hang, utilize and existing canopy, or make a DIY rail/canopy system such as my friend Steven designed: LED Mounting SuggestionsCarl
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Post by parker002 on Feb 18, 2012 17:56:27 GMT -5
I'm making my own mounting that somewhat mimics the T5 HO strip I have now. I'm already doing the plans now - will definitely post pics by next weekend. I can't wait to get these lights!
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