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Post by Carl on Sept 23, 2008 14:14:20 GMT -5
I updated my Aquarium Nitrogen cycle article, in particular the summary for the cycling method section as to the use of cycling products (and assumptions made fro their use) I also updated other parts as well, and I tried to add clarity as to why the raw shrimp method is s bad choice even though Wikipedia and some at YA still push this (BTW, thanks Eve for using this article at YA ) Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle, from basics to in depthCarl
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Post by goldenpuon on Sept 23, 2008 14:57:25 GMT -5
Yaay! Nitrogen cycle!! That was my first great feat when it came to fishkeeping. I kept on getting told to do water changes which aggravated the problem. Then, combined with ich and other problems when I first started with feeder goldfish, everything died. Thanks. i'll be sure to read it!
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Post by eve on Sept 24, 2008 22:03:23 GMT -5
I love this article carl i use it often as you for sure know and people love it too
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Post by Carl on Jan 13, 2013 20:17:41 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Apr 1, 2013 18:06:20 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on May 10, 2013 18:39:23 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Jul 31, 2013 17:54:52 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Sept 2, 2013 15:25:04 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Sept 11, 2013 18:51:05 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Oct 20, 2013 16:22:52 GMT -5
Once again I have updated the "Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle" article. Two more excellent resources were added, as well the information contained in these resources were incorporated into this article, including explanations as to this sterile but otherwise excellent research and how it fits into known facts about nitrification www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Nitrogen_Cycle.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Dec 28, 2013 19:51:08 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Mar 5, 2015 20:10:35 GMT -5
I have once again updated the "Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle" article, this time to merge "Broken Aquariums" new study of cycling aids Here is a snip from this article about this experiment: "My recommendation in the past as it pertains to Stability & the other similar products is to use it as an aid in cycling of new aquariums or (better) as a boost when the bio load of an aquarium suddenly “jumps’ for whatever reason, NOT a primary way to cycle your aquarium. HOWEVER, a new study that AAP has sponsored, had results with a controlled test where Stability beat even Fritz-Zyme in results, something even I did not expect, but this is where a SCIENCE BASED EXPERIMENT TRUMPS OBSERVATION EVERY TIME!"Here is a link to the Cycling aids section: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Nitrogen_Cycle.html#productsCarl
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Post by Carl on Apr 8, 2015 12:40:00 GMT -5
We have another update to the Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle article. This includes and update to the "Nitrates section" near the end of the article. Here is a snip from this section: "I have seen nitrates in freshwater go down by simply changing filter systems (the over all health of the aquarium improved as well).
Unfortunately of late, wet/dry filters have made a resurgence in popularity, especially with the popularity of the highly over rated EShoppes Wet Dry Filter. The facts are these filter might be excellent at nitrifcation, they are by nature nitrate factories and my tests have proven this over and over during my years of aquarium maintenance. Even changing out the bio balls often does not fully solving the problem, but replacing the entire filter with a canister filter filled with Matrix, Volcanic Rock or similar then running a Fluidized Filter such as the TMC #1000 FSB filter did in fact solve the nitrate issues (along with balancing bio loads).
Another example of a filter I have changed out with notable improvements would be by removing an Emperor 400 and replacing it with a combination Sponge filter or Fluidized Filter System."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Nitrogen_Cycle.html#highnitratesCarl
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Post by Carl on May 19, 2015 15:10:34 GMT -5
In this update, I have simply responded to one of many very personal attacks upon myself and Devon by the forum nano-reefs.com. Members have falsely charged that I have plagiarized others when in fact it is simply forums using my work without proper citation (which I do cite when I copy other's work) Here is a response in my resources section based on just one of these ludicrous charges: "Nitrogen is an element vital to all life processes on Earth We list this as a resource only due to the fact Google gives higher authority to websites such as this, despite the fact this website actually uses part of our content as their own without citing us. However It is noteworthy that this article actually used our information, as the publish date of this website is 2008 while our article was published on the Internet in 2005. Sorry Nano-reef.com, this is our original content and any content we do use from others IS cited in our references,, as we well know the sting of plagiarism from written content to picture content. Reference: Wikipedia; Academia.edu"Here is the quote that should not even be in question: "Nitrogen is an element vital to all life processes on Earth. Nitrogen is very important in our biosphere, where nitrogen comprises 78% of the atmosphere, and is part of every living tissue. It is a component of amino acids, proteins and nucleic acids. With the exception of carbon, nitrogen is the most universal element of life. Life could not exist without nitrogen. See Reference Note. "Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Nitrogen_Cycle.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Nov 3, 2016 12:15:38 GMT -5
I have updated the "Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle" article. Here is an excerpt from the "What to do for high nitrites/ammonia section": "* It is also common for ammonia and/or nitrite spikes after moving or transferring an aquarium. Do not be too alarmed with temporary spikes of 1 ppm or less. However long term spikes, especially higher ppm, may mean the transfer/move was not conducted properly.
Unless an Under Gravel filter is used, substrate is often a poor means of beneficial bacteria transfer Best is to at most mildly rinse in de-chlorinated water a high capacity bio filter media such as AAP Hydro Sponge Filters, FSB Filters, Matrix, Live Rock (or LR crumbles), or volcanic rock from a canister filter, etc and transfer this in as high amounts as possible to avoid an aquarium re-cycle. Also beware as per sponge filters that the majority now sold are Chinese knock offs (example Deep Blue Sponge Filters) that have only 1/5 the bio capacity, so do not count on these if used for bio transfer."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Nitrogen_Cycle.html#highammoniaCarl
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Post by Carl on Jul 1, 2017 10:16:03 GMT -5
I have updated the "Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle" article once more Here is an excerpt from the article: "[1] Seasoned Filter Media:
My preferred cycling method is to transfer filter media. Sponges work well as Autotrophic nitrifying bacteria tend to cling to sponge media in high quantities and sponge media is easily transferred, although floss, ceramic media, volcanic rock, etc. are also fine from an established aquarium and possibly along with some gravel, then introduce the fish SLOWLY after 3-7 days. See product links: Nirox Ceramic biological media & Volcanic rock Biological Aquarium and Pond Filter Media
The method of adding “aged” or "seasoned" media is much faster (you still have to take it slow, but this with this method some fish can and should be introduced immediately), and provides all the necessary bacteria, the only negative is adding disease pathogens to your aquarium, but I have rarely encountered this problem. To prevent this transfer of disease pathogens and parasites, only use a media source where no new fish have been added in 30 days, ALL water parameters are good, and if possible has UV Sterilization (although not necessary).
A mistake that is occasionally made is adding a new sponge filter to a fully cycled/seasoned aquarium for a week or two and then adding it to the new tank one is trying to quickly establish via this method. Unfortunately this filter itself would not be fully seasoned as it would have needed to be running in the established aquarium for 6-8 weeks for this to happen, so starting a new aquarium with a filter not allowed to fully season will result in poor results in the new aquarium."referenced from this section: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Nitrogen_Cycle.html#seasonedCarl
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jul 1, 2017 13:34:24 GMT -5
I have updated the "Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle" article once more Here is an excerpt from the article: "[1] Seasoned Filter Media:
My preferred cycling method is to transfer filter media. Sponges work well as Autotrophic nitrifying bacteria tend to cling to sponge media in high quantities and sponge media is easily transferred, although floss, ceramic media, volcanic rock, etc. are also fine from an established aquarium and possibly along with some gravel, then introduce the fish SLOWLY after 3-7 days. See product links: Nirox Ceramic biological media & Volcanic rock Biological Aquarium and Pond Filter Media
The method of adding “aged” or "seasoned" media is much faster (you still have to take it slow, but this with this method some fish can and should be introduced immediately), and provides all the necessary bacteria, the only negative is adding disease pathogens to your aquarium, but I have rarely encountered this problem. To prevent this transfer of disease pathogens and parasites, only use a media source where no new fish have been added in 30 days, ALL water parameters are good, and if possible has UV Sterilization (although not necessary).
A mistake that is occasionally made is adding a new sponge filter to a fully cycled/seasoned aquarium for a week or two and then adding it to the new tank one is trying to quickly establish via this method. Unfortunately this filter itself would not be fully seasoned as it would have needed to be running in the established aquarium for 6-8 weeks for this to happen, so starting a new aquarium with a filter not allowed to fully season will result in poor results in the new aquarium."referenced from this section: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Nitrogen_Cycle.html#seasonedCarl Season media is my go too. I will have extra sponges cycling just to be prepared.
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Post by Carl on Jul 11, 2017 9:27:40 GMT -5
I have further updated the "Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle" article. Here is an excerpt from the "Key points about ammonia" section: *Ammonia in the form of toxic NH3 commonly found in aquariums from wastes (Animal and plant) will convert to NH4 (which is much less toxic) in a pH of around 6.4 or less. It is noteworthy that the higher the pH and the higher the temperature, the higher the percentage of toxic NH3. *It is NORMAL in a healthy aquarium with an established nitrogen cycle for the total ammonia levels (combined NH3/NH4 which most test kits display) to spike to .25 ppm and occasionally to .5 due to generally normal oscillations in the bio load of the aquarium (although some very stable aquariums with strong bio bacterial colonies with little or no plant growth may see no oscillations at all in total ammonia). This is due to the fact the Autotrophic nitrifying bacteria do not immediately respond to these changes wastes in the water column. This said; if the pH is high along with the temperature, the total ammonia level can become quite toxic even at low levels. So while at 7.0 pH and a temperature of 77F, the total ammonia at .50 would not be deadly, at 86F and above 8.0 pH, these same numbers can be deadly. See table below:Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Nitrogen_Cycle.html#ammonia-keyCarl
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Post by Carl on Feb 7, 2018 10:54:26 GMT -5
I have further updated the "Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle" article Here is an excerpt: "Another method is the gradual addition of fish food to an otherwise empty aquarium (no fish). This can be a very effective means of cycling that is preferred by many experienced aquarists. This method takes about the same time as the pure ammonia method (2-6 weeks, usually about 3). This is my preferred method when aged bio media is not available (not everyone has a friend or helpful local fish store to give them some aged media).
The only risk of the fish food method is the possibility of Saprolegnia (mold) growing on rotting fish food which can become pathogenic to new fish that will be introduced later. This is easily avoided with a fish flake food by powdering it between fingers before introduction to the aquarium (shaking/liquifying fish flake food in a cup of water can also accomplish this). This risk is relatively small and basically non-existent when you use an easily “liquefied” fish flake food. This unfortunately is NOT the case with the raw shrimp method (recommended by a few poorly researched sites).
TIP/NOTE: I suggest for even better utilization of the fish food cycling method to add this liquified fish food toa baster or syringe and in inject directly into a runnig high capacity sponge filter (such as the AAP Hydro Sponge Filter) or simlar quality bio filter. It is also noteworthy, especially if you use this tip, that sometimes little or no ammonia is ever detected as the seeding goes this fast (similar to the seasoned bio filter method). The key that this is happening is that nitrates levels start to climb (assuming no water changes are performed during this process, which there should not be water changes during the seeding process)."Carl
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Post by Carl on Apr 11, 2018 9:48:24 GMT -5
Update Time! NITROGEN CYCLE AND AQUARIUM & POND CYCLING; IN DEPTHHere is an excerpt: "True nitrifying bacteria are Autotrophic and considered to be those belonging to the family Nitrobacteraceae whose energy sources are derived from the chemical conversion of ammonia to nitrite, or, nitrite to nitrate (Autotrophic bacteria are organisms that produce complex organic compounds from simple inorganic molecules). They require oxygen, utilize mostly inorganic (without carbon) compounds as their energy source, and require carbon dioxide (CO2) for their source of carbon. In the case of the Nitrobacteraceae these energy sources are derived from the chemical conversion of ammonia to nitrite, or, nitrite to nitrate."
AND
"Liquid Cycle, Quick Start, and Stress-Zyme are just preserved bacteria (mostly Heterotrophs) that are more useful for over feeding or other bio over loads in an established aquarium (as aerobic bacteria needed for nitrification do not store well in liquid form at room temperature without oxygen). Honestly in my tests Cycle or Stress Zyme are really only useful to aid in breakdown of excess wastes from over feeding, poor filtration, etc. (Cycle can also be used as an aid to organic breakdown while waiting for your aquarium Nitrogen Cycle to get started from other means when fish are present). The Heterotrophic Bacteria within these products can aid in the decomposing of excess organic waste however they are basically useless for actually seeding an aquarium. This is a FACT as per the earlier section of this article about nitrification as to true nitrifying bacteria being Autotrophic, not Heterotrophic."
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