Aquarium, Pond UV Sterilizer Use

[Carl]

I have updated our very popular and research/experience based article about true UV Sterilizer use.
In the most recent update I updated the section about turnover and bulb change in response to some incorrect information by a popular Youtube channel (Bulk Reef Supply).

Here are a couple excerpts:
"For Algae Control on side of pond or on "live rock" in marine aquariums (not green water):
2.5 to 3 times per hour is generally all that is needed.
However often what would come out to six times per hour has been recommended by some with little professional experience and consultation.
It is noteworthy that this is often more than is necessary assuming a flow rate at a parasite level (see our flow table later in the article) AND assuming a truly established pond or seasoned live rock in a marine aquarium. What is missed is what has been demonstrated as "old rock" by some making this case is clearly NOT truly seasoned live rock which is very easy to spot.
Just as importantly, in a video I viewed on the subject, it appeared they were confusing flow rate with turnover.

BETTER is rather than spend more than is needed for an extra large or a couple of UVs just to battle some extra algae growth is to simply establish your marine aquarium with truly seasoned live rock and also practice some patience.
Ditto a pond, allow for maturing of the pond, add a Veggie Filter, use some Pond Stability and Enzymes and save your money in UV Sterilizer "overkill".

An example for a marine aquarium for algae control on live rock would be a Vecton 600 for a 60 gallon aquarium or a TMC 110 Advantage for a 500 gallon aquarium (where as 50 watts of Category A UV would normally be enough for a 500 gallon aquarium)."

AND

"Bulb: Check your UV Bulb/Lamp every month if possible.
More importantly; CHANGE your bulb every 6 months for aquariums, and also every 6 months for ponds in warm climates where there is no winter freeze.
While many non professionals will quote manufacturers that one year or 8000-9000 hours is when to change, this error is based on the "rated" lifespan" of the HO UV lamp/bulb. HOWEVER at 6 months the lamp is already at 75% of its UVC output and at one year it is at 50% of its original UVC output which is why I strongly recommend every six months."

Sadly in the second, this is common knowledge in the professional aquarium keeping industry, so for BRS to quote the lifespan of a UV bulb as when to change it really leaves me scratching my head as to how much they really know. Since I think these are smart guys, I have to think that they simply refuse to allow any mentoring and want to act as the only source of knowledge (just my opinion here though)



Carl

[Carl]

I've further updated the popular article about Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilizer Use

Here is an excerpt:
Aquarium Temperature with UV Sterilizer Use:

The section above deals temperatures inside the UV Sterilizer itself, not an aquarium, Please do not confuse the two as although the temperature inside the aquarium (& more likely a pond during cooler months) affects the effectiveness of the UV Sterilizer, the UV Sterilizer has little effect on the aquarium temperature.

For example, a 9 watt UV Sterilizer connected to a 100 gallon tank can at best heat your tank the same as a 9 watt heater.
With a heater 25 watts is required for every 10 degrees of ambient temperature per 10 gallons you need to raise your aquarium temperature; so using this equation a 9 watt UV-C lamp (again at best) could only raise 10 gallons of water 3.6 degrees F; now divide this by 10 (since a 100 gallon tank is tens times then gallons) and you have a temperature increase of .36 degrees Fahrenheit, in other words insignificant!

Reference: How an Aquarium Heater Functions, Types

Carl

[Carl]

I have updated even more in the Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilizer Use article

Here is an excerpt from the maintenance section:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#uvmaintenance


Bulb: Check your UV Bulb/Lamp every month if possible.
More importantly; CHANGE your bulb every 6 months for aquariums (run 24/7 as suggested earlier in this article), and also every 6 months for ponds in warm climates where there is no winter freeze.
While many non professionals will quote manufacturers that one year or 8000-9000 hours is when to change, this error is based on the "rated" lifespan" of the HO UV lamp/bulb. HOWEVER at 6 months the lamp is already at 75% of its UVC output and at one year it is at 50% of its original UVC output which is why I strongly recommend every six months.

In cool climates a pond UV bulb can be changed every season (usually late spring/ early summer), however as your pond UV Sterilizer approaches a year, your UV-C Lamp is only emitting about 25% of the correct UVC energy, so changing a pond UV bulb once per year say in Sept. will not be of much benefit since it will be very inefficient when you need it most (the warm/hot months of summer).

For longevity with a high output UV Bulb/lamp, do not regularly re-start your UV, as EVERY Re-start cycle takes life from your UV bulb. Besides the poor UV Sterilization caused by being on a daily timer, your UV bulb lifespan can be 50-75% lower with daily re-starts.
This is due to the surge voltage required to fire your HO UV Bulb.

[Carl]

I ave further updated the article about the use of UV Sterilization in Aquariums & Ponds

Here is an excerpt:
Understanding the following points is ESSENTIAL prior to purchasing ANY UV Sterilizer regardless of brand or stated capacity (as most stated capacities are incorrect, even by the better units).
It is also noteworthy that many UV Sterilizers CANNOT achieve these points & in Fact are ONLY clarifiers and thus are a waste of money if one desires TRUE level 1 UV Sterilization (or higher)!!

• Flow rate
• Dwell time (related to flow rate)
• Water Turnover in pond or aquarium per hour
*As well the circulation pattern can affect UV Sterilization effectiveness
• Distance of UV Lamp from UV Sterilizer containment 'wall'
• Temperature of water
• Pre-Filtration including Turbidity of water & a healthy bio filter.
If turbidity is high and bio filtration is low, you could require double rated UV. In ponds in particular, it often takes double the normal rated size UV Sterilizer if bio filtration is poor and turbidity if high just to clear green water.



Carl

[Carl]

I have made another update to my in depth article about True UV Sterilizer use in an aquarium or pond
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html

Here is an excerpt from the overview section:
"HOWEVER, and more importantly, a TRUE UV Sterilizer helps with disease prevention & Redox Balance (via proven lowering of oxidative stress) when properly connected (meaning flow rate, pre-filtration, etc.) and properly maintained by replacing with high output UV lamps/bulbs (not the economy replacement lamps/bulbs sold by discounters that have as little as 25% of the necessary UVC as a HO UV lamp).
This is the thrust of this article, as while it is certainly a good tool for green/cloudy water especially in ponds (assuming the bio filter is healthy), it is this Sterilization/Redox Balance aspect that years of professional hands on use in 1000s of applications has shown to really make the difference and why so many true aquarium professionals in the industry support the use of a true UV Sterilizer as a tool to improve long term fish keeping results.

Please note that I said it is a tool, as even the best True UV Sterilizer does NOT take the place of good fish/aquarium husbandry).
As well, please do not confuse this aspect with the use of a UV clarifier (not sterilizer) for aquarium use in an often misguided attempt to make up for poor aquarium husbandry for algae control too."



Carl