Need help with identifying ulcer like bump and treatment

[Jenee']

I have a betta in a 2.5 gallon tank.  He has seemed healthy all year, but recently came down with a growth where his dorsal fin connects with his body.  It started as just a small cyst-like bulge.  Within a week, it has grown to nearly twice the size.  A few days ago, it split and there is an area of white flesh showing.  (My amateur guess, anyway.)  At first I was just observing it to see if it was just a benign cyst.  Because it grew so fast and I can't positively identify it, I started with a course of Spectrogram that I bought a while back from Carl.  He has had two doses, ready for the third tomorrow.   The pics are terrible - he wouldn't quit the betta dance and hold still!

I am concerned because I fly out tomorrow for 3 days, and won't be home to commence any other treatments, especially if this is actually a parasite.  Any suggestions on what this could be, and the recommended treatment?

I have on hand - spectrogram, kanaplex, metroplex, furan-2, polyguard, copper aid (and test kit)
                         medicated wonder shells, methylene blue, shieldex, wound control, aquarium salt, betta spa, melafix.
Yes, I believe in being prepared instead of waiting to get product AFTER the fact.     

Water Parameters:
    2.5 gallon tank with hydrosponge filter and heat set to 76.
    PH  8.0 - I use betta spa regularly, and change 1/4 of the water monthly.   
         Tap water tests at 7.6 (after sitting 24 hours), and raises to 8-8.2 in all 3 of my tanks.   In the Pacific NW - we have a community well in solid lava rock.
    KH  6
    GH  11
    ammonia, nitrates and nitrites are all 0.

Thanks!

[kagome]

I'm sorry your fish is sick!

It's better to wait for Carl to take a look as far as trying to identify the sore.

For my two cents, 25% water changes once a month is not really enough. It's better to change out 25% weekly.

Also, you might want to double check your water parameters with a liquid test kit. In a cycled tank, there should always be some nitrates present. NO3- is a natural byproduct of the nitrogen cycle. Especially if only 25% is being changed out monthly, I would expect for nitrates to be well over 40 ppm.

Since it's not a huge tank, you could mix distilled water with your tap water 50/50 when you do water changes. That would bring down the GH/KH/pH in the tank.

[Jenee']

Thanks for the valuable tips! I haven't tried the distilled water trick. I did try using 1/2 bottled spring water, then eventually 100% bottled spring water. I always used the same brand to keep consistent with the water source, but still had trouble with PH eventually rising, so I went back to my tap water. I'll have to give it a try!
  It is interesting that the tanks all have different gravel, different plants, etc.  But they all rise.  It baffles me...


I do have the freshwater master test kit that I've been using for a couple years now. I re-tested again, being even more OCD than usual, and posted a pic below. Maybe the nitrates are actually around 25 ppm?? It is pretty yellow - definitely not as orange as the 5 ppm... and I'm sure the color chart prints a little differently every time. I consistently get these readings, month after month. I also bought a digital PH tester, but I'm not convinced that it is accurate and consistent.




In the past, I was over cautious with cleaning and "chasing the PH" (as Carl talks about) along with more frequent water changes, and I had trouble keeping bettas. Even with good numbers, other than the darn PH. I was encouraged to keep an eye on stability instead, and since then I've had better luck. I'll try bi-weekly 50% changes and see how that goes.



Thanks for your help!

[kagome]

Is the tank heavily planted? That could be what is eating up the nitrates and why they test as so low.

Definitely, you're doing the right thing going for stability rather than chasing "perfect" numbers.

Is it maybe that topping off for evaporation with your tap water is raising your pH?

If there's a lot of carbonate/bicarbonate in your tap water, it could be that it neutralizes any acidic compounds produced by any nitrogenous waste and keeps the pH high.

Using 50/50 distilled would make the GH/KH/pH go down a bit. Since distilled is so close to completely neutral, you shouldn't have to worry about which brand you get. The spring water that you used before may have had a high GH and/or KH, it depends on the source water. But the distilled should be just about pure. Mixing it with your tap water would still give you some minerals in the water, but not the super high liquid rocks you've got now.

The betta spa might have more of an effect if you're mixing in the distilled.

[devonjohnsgard]

Is the temp sticking to 76?

The smaller tanks tend to heat up in the warmer months. And fluctuate causing health issues.

Your parameters look good, so I think its a stress related issue. I would try to track down what the stressor is.

I think your right by doing the spectogram treatments... You could consider the medicated wonder shell for while your gone.

[Carl]

Sorry, I missed this thread.
However the advice you've been given is excellent, I especially agree with Kagome as to cutting your water with DI, Spring, or RO water, As she stated, this will make your Betta Spa more effective.
Also consider Pillow Moss
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/FrogMoss.html

I would directly treat with Wound Control (I've often have achieved cures with problems similar to this with the use of this product (followed by Res-Q)
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquatronics.html#resq

If this does not work, you might consider the use of PolyGuard once you finish the current treatment

Carl

[Jenee']

I just got back from my trip, and the wound (?) doesn't appear to have grown and doesn't look any worse.  I'll try the wound control and see how that goes.  It is ok to use that in conjunction with Shieldex, right?   

I do use pillow moss, Indian Almond leaves, and Betta Spa to help with the PH.  I rely on the Betta Spa, have a patch of pillow moss,  and supplement with an occasional IAL.  Topping off the tank, combined with only once a month water changes definitely sounds like it could be part of the PH rising problem.  I'll go back to more frequent changes.   The tanks have mostly silk plants due to an issue with heavy string algae - they were so much easier to clean. Thanks to this forum, we discovered that the blue lights in the hood was causing the issue. I covered them with duct tape, and the problem went away and has never returned.  

The water temp stays really stable - not ever more than a 2 degree difference.  I have a small Cobalt thermometer that is an actual thermostat instead of constant low heat, and our house stays very cool, even in the summer.  We are in the mountains and the house is mostly shaded.  

Thank you, everyone for your input.  I will put it all to work!

[Carl]

Jun 9, 2019 21:44:09 GMT -5 Jenee' said:

Thanks to this forum, we discovered that the blue lights in the hood was causing the issue. I covered them with duct tape, and the problem went away and has never returned.  

This is simple science based solution that my years maintaining aquariums has proven time and time again, yet I've gotten a lot of push back, especially by planted aquarium keepers trying to push the lasted fad light that has too much blue

Carl

[flyingbettas]

Jenee',

I have heard of bettas having the same problem with yours but with not so good outcome. I would like to make sure I don't use whatever blue light tgat is that was giving you trouble. Would you mind sharing what brand/ type of that light bulb the blue light thingy is? Thanks!

[Carl]

Jun 13, 2019 16:17:32 GMT -5 flyingbettas said:

Jenee',

I have heard of bettas having the same problem with yours but with not so good outcome. I would like to make sure I don't use whatever blue light tgat is that was giving you trouble. Would you mind sharing what brand/ type of that light bulb the blue light thingy is? Thanks!

It is not necessarily a brand of blue light issue, it is the fact so many lights now simply have too much blue light in the spectrum as this appeals to people and is the current fad.
Simply look for a Natural Daylight 65000K light (such as the AAP Clip on LED or Grobeam premium LED).
Examples:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/LEDOther.html#aqueonLED
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquaRayLEDLighting.html#600_mle

Further Reading:
www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2008/04/aquarium-algae.html
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Lighting.html

Carl

[flyingbettas]

Thank you Carl. I did find your lighting article a couple days ago and admit I felt a bit overwhelmed. I am still trying to slowly read through it. Thank you for posting and making it super simple.

[Carl]

Jun 14, 2019 14:53:04 GMT -5 flyingbettas said:

Thank you Carl. I did find your lighting article a couple days ago and admit I felt a bit overwhelmed. I am still trying to slowly read through it. Thank you for posting and making it super simple.

Here is an article that simplifies my lighting article:
www.fishbeginner.info/home/aquarium-lights-lighting-which-to-choose/

Carl

[devonjohnsgard]

This may help:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=laQyvIqg9tw

[Jenee']

Just an update for all of you that have contributed your expertise!

I changed 25% of the water last week, and just did a 50% change today. I didn't want to cause any additional stress with PH shock, so I thought it would be better to do a gradual change rather than a full change on day 1.  I also added betta spa, as usual.  I'm going to use the shieldex more often.  I don't think I was using it often enough.

The growth has not grown the last couple weeks.  It grew really fast at first, so I'm pleased about that.   It has also not shrunk at all, but the center of the growth that looked like protruding whitish flesh has changed to just his natural body color and seems to be more covered with scales now.  Yay!  He is still eating well and acting normal.  I'm just going to sit back and observe going forward, and not do anything unless he worsens.  

As far as lighting goes - I've never had an issue with his tank and the algae.  I use a 6500K daylight bulb in a small lamp over the tank as Carl suggested.  My issue was with one of my other tanks that has the LED bulbs.  (I have 3 betta tanks...I love the little buggars!)   It has 2 settings, one for day and a blue one for night.  I never used the night setting, but there are a few blue lights that stay on even with the day setting.  I thought I was clever and found the perfect set up for my small tanks - easy to use, spreads to fit both the 2.5 and 5 gallon tanks.  But no -  Grrrr.    ALWAYS listen to the master Carl and devonjohnsgard and research before buying!!! 

Speaking of buying...  Folks - support these guys by buying your supplies from Carl!  American Aquarium Products has good prices, quick and reasonable shipping and excellent customer service.  A win-win for everyone!   AAP is an honest, small company that won't sell you something you don't need.   It is the only place I trust.  I refuse to buy from big businesses if I don't have to.
Thank you so very much for all the work you do Carl, and your website full of information. It has become my only go-to reference! 

[Carl]

Jun 19, 2019 15:52:49 GMT -5 Jenee' said:

Speaking of buying...  Folks - support these guys by buying your supplies from Carl!  American Aquarium Products has good prices, quick and reasonable shipping and excellent customer service.  A win-win for everyone!   AAP is an honest, small company that won't sell you something you don't need.   It is the only place I trust.  I refuse to buy from big businesses if I don't have to.
Thank you so very much for all the work you do Carl, and your website full of information. It has become my only go-to reference! 

Thank you for your compliments!
It is nice to read this we work hard at providing honest customer service all at the same time we all have to now perform outside work just to keep the doors open as most no longer reward us for our help and articles with purchases (Devon in particular obtains most his income outside AAP)

Carl