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Post by mbb04915 on Jan 6, 2019 18:20:44 GMT -5
- UV quit recently; have been investigating and studying your troubleshooting guide for UV.
- May have overheated (reasons below) and there are signs inside the fixture point that way. Does not work with new bulb.
- Does it have a magnetic ballast and if so can I get a new starter (or 2)
If overheating happened, it was because of too low a flow. In a low tech planted tank (35 gal) I am using your Sun/sun internal filter HJ 952 as both the pump and the pre-filter for the UV. I throttle it back with a valve but have no way of measuring output. Just eyeballed it aiming for the low side. Probably went too low or pump output was further strangled by low H2O level or dirty filter. Ugh. Was my mistake the throttling back? I see now that HJ 952 filter is rated at 210 gph and the UV 107 wants 175-300 gph. The only filtration the tank really needs is for UV purposes only, and occasional cosmetic cleanup after I pay in the mud.
UV model 107 purchased Feb 2018. Many many thanks Love your site. Mary PS. The gro-beams are beautiful
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Post by Carl on Jan 7, 2019 10:13:30 GMT -5
Welcome to Everything Aquatic! This UV uses an Electronic ballast. If you have a multi meter, I would test for voltage with the unit plugged in and with the safety switch depressed. Speaking of the safety switch, I would make sure it is engaging. Over heating can damage the ballast, but testing could determine this Reference www.americanaquariumproducts.com/UVBulbTroubleShooting.htmlYou can also return the unit for testing BTW, glad you are happy with the GroBeam LEDsCarl
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jan 8, 2019 11:55:20 GMT -5
The flow of the internal filter will also decease over time as the sponge inside gets more and more loaded. So, if you have it limited, chances are it could stop flowing or have a very slow flow.
My planted tanks will also suck up plant material, which also plugs the sponge.
I just put my hand on the outtake after the sterilizer to know how much flow is coming out.
AND WELCOME!
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Post by mbb04915 on Jan 9, 2019 19:51:39 GMT -5
Tested ballast with multimeter. Very high ohms, no continuity (?) between two legs of socket. Voltage reads 120 but no spike at the beginning.
Replace ballast? Can you recommend a replacement. The web choices are mind boggling. Perhaps new ballast not worth the cost?
Thank you Mary
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Post by Carl on Jan 10, 2019 9:39:31 GMT -5
Tested ballast with multimeter. Very high ohms, no continuity (?) between two legs of socket. Voltage reads 120 but no spike at the beginning. Replace ballast? Can you recommend a replacement. The web choices are mind boggling. Perhaps new ballast not worth the cost? Thank you Mary I would suggest returning the top with the ballast (the main body is not needed) for testing, repair, or replacement Return Address: American Aquarium Products 710 Foundry Street, Unit C Grants Pass, OR 97526 Carl
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Post by mbb04915 on Jan 31, 2019 10:28:18 GMT -5
Am sending back to you only now.....(Jan 31)
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Post by Carl on Jan 31, 2019 14:48:40 GMT -5
Am sending back to you only now.....(Jan 31) OK
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Post by mbb04915 on Mar 9, 2019 18:34:11 GMT -5
Recieved the unit back in good shape. Turns out that all that trouble was because the spare bulb I had on hand was no good. It looked fine but something is wrong with it. Unit lights perfectly with new spare you sent.
Further question, do you sell O ring kits for this unit?
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Post by Carl on Mar 10, 2019 10:15:25 GMT -5
Recieved the unit back in good shape. Turns out that all that trouble was because the spare bulb I had on hand was no good. It looked fine but something is wrong with it. Unit lights perfectly with new spare you sent. Further question, do you sell O ring kits for this unit? These parts are not available from the manufacturer for this product. My suggestion is using silicone lubricant (or Petroleum Jelly if you cannot find Silicone Lubricant, but it is not as good). As well, wrapping the O ring with Teflon Tape can give new life to an O Ring that has shrunk up a bit Carl
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