Post by Carl on Dec 20, 2017 10:50:58 GMT -5
i have updated the "Aquarium/Pond Answers" article about aquarium tests kits
"AQUARIUM TEST KITS; what they are used for and their importance"
Here are a couple excerpts:
"Often, as with those who improperly use a medication (such as wrong parameters, incorrect dose, etc.), many will have one or two "bad experiences" and label a test kit as inaccurate.
HOWEVER in my 1000s of daily tests, I have to throw out the very rare anomaly and state I have found little difference in most basic test kits as per what the job requires (I also performed many controlled tests of test kits & strips). IN FACT, most "bad" readings were still traceable to user error on my part such as sticking a wet finger in the container in previous tests, failing to place a desiccant in the container after initial opening, or not holding the strip flat after dipping, thus allowing mixing of water between test squares. When used properly, 1000s of accurate readings over a few decades of professional use DO NOT LIE!
Even when a reading is not 100% accurate, does a KH reading of 160 ppm versus 140 ppm make that much difference as long as it is showing trends such as a decreasing KH (possibly indicating an ever increasing bio load which would likely then call for lowering the bio loads and/or increasing water changes and increasing alkaline buffers)??
The exception would be for measuring rH (Relative Hydrogen) where a highly accurate ORP and pH reading are needed to complete this formulation."
AND
"It is always best to have as many different test kits as you can afford (as they apply to either freshwater or saltwater.
I prefer to purchase my test kits separately as most master test kits duplicate tests I do not use regularly and leave out essential ones I (& others) need for established aquarium such as KH and GH, or possibly Phosphate, Calcium, or Redox.
The API 5 in 1 Test Strips (and similar by Mardel & Tetra) often have the tests that I generally use for my established tanks in a very convenient form that are accurate enough for regular monitoring (then stepping up to a liquid or test meter if something is off).
I find these vastly more useful and time efficient than so-called Master Test Kits which exclude the very important GH, and KH tests (without a KH test one cannot correctly maintain a steady pH or track bio load and without a GH one cannot monitor essential minerals).
The only missing test is for ammonia, however the nitrite test is often all one needs for an established aquarium. For my newer client's aquarium or simply quick reference in my established aquariums, I prefer a SeaChem Ammonia Alert as this is an easy to notice warning test that is always present in the aquarium. More importantly this test kit test ONLY the toxic NH3, NOT the non toxic NH4 ammonium combined with NH4 most other ammonia test kits cannot differentiate between."
Carl
"AQUARIUM TEST KITS; what they are used for and their importance"
Here are a couple excerpts:
"Often, as with those who improperly use a medication (such as wrong parameters, incorrect dose, etc.), many will have one or two "bad experiences" and label a test kit as inaccurate.
HOWEVER in my 1000s of daily tests, I have to throw out the very rare anomaly and state I have found little difference in most basic test kits as per what the job requires (I also performed many controlled tests of test kits & strips). IN FACT, most "bad" readings were still traceable to user error on my part such as sticking a wet finger in the container in previous tests, failing to place a desiccant in the container after initial opening, or not holding the strip flat after dipping, thus allowing mixing of water between test squares. When used properly, 1000s of accurate readings over a few decades of professional use DO NOT LIE!
Even when a reading is not 100% accurate, does a KH reading of 160 ppm versus 140 ppm make that much difference as long as it is showing trends such as a decreasing KH (possibly indicating an ever increasing bio load which would likely then call for lowering the bio loads and/or increasing water changes and increasing alkaline buffers)??
The exception would be for measuring rH (Relative Hydrogen) where a highly accurate ORP and pH reading are needed to complete this formulation."
AND
"It is always best to have as many different test kits as you can afford (as they apply to either freshwater or saltwater.
I prefer to purchase my test kits separately as most master test kits duplicate tests I do not use regularly and leave out essential ones I (& others) need for established aquarium such as KH and GH, or possibly Phosphate, Calcium, or Redox.
The API 5 in 1 Test Strips (and similar by Mardel & Tetra) often have the tests that I generally use for my established tanks in a very convenient form that are accurate enough for regular monitoring (then stepping up to a liquid or test meter if something is off).
I find these vastly more useful and time efficient than so-called Master Test Kits which exclude the very important GH, and KH tests (without a KH test one cannot correctly maintain a steady pH or track bio load and without a GH one cannot monitor essential minerals).
The only missing test is for ammonia, however the nitrite test is often all one needs for an established aquarium. For my newer client's aquarium or simply quick reference in my established aquariums, I prefer a SeaChem Ammonia Alert as this is an easy to notice warning test that is always present in the aquarium. More importantly this test kit test ONLY the toxic NH3, NOT the non toxic NH4 ammonium combined with NH4 most other ammonia test kits cannot differentiate between."
Carl