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Post by michal_j on Nov 1, 2018 13:12:58 GMT -5
It's DIY filter with flow regulated from 240gph to 529gph.
Tank 79 gallon.
Amount od sera siporax is 0,6 - 0,7 gallon.
Best regards Michael
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Post by Carl on Nov 1, 2018 13:19:02 GMT -5
First the UV is best run 24/7
My thoughts to this is somehow there is a crack or leak around the quartz sleeve that is small, but still allowing some water to get around the electrical which could then forma chalky substance that would then get into the water column.
Carl
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Post by michal_j on Nov 1, 2018 14:03:18 GMT -5
When I switch on UV it's running 24/7.
I've checked inside of the UV and it's perfectly dry,no signs of cracks, bents or leaks.
Regards Michael
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Post by Carl on Nov 1, 2018 14:32:20 GMT -5
Other than my example and a some chemical reactions, I have never seen this happen, with both lower & higher capability UVs.
So I would consider what Devon mentioned, and as well make sure there is good pre-filtration,
Some chemicals, most notably quinine products interact with UV light, so look into what might be being used while the light is on
Carl
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Post by michal_j on Nov 1, 2018 14:51:26 GMT -5
Other than my example and a some chemical reactions, I have never seen this happen, with both lower & higher capability UVs. So I would consider what Devon mentioned, and as well make sure there is good pre-filtration, Some chemicals, most notably quinine products interact with UV light, so look into what might be being used while the light is on Carl I am also shocked .. As for prefiltration - situation was the same when I used 20 micron filters and when 45PPI sponge was used. UV is connected at the end of the filter and it's on a bypass. Maybe the flow thru UV od too fast? Regards Michael
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Nov 2, 2018 11:10:07 GMT -5
How long were the filters season before using the UV? If you flow is about 200gph, you should be good.
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Post by michal_j on Nov 2, 2018 12:01:46 GMT -5
They were used without UV for about 3 months when I added Seachem Stability to the water.
Now I reduced flow and around 200gph it works fine, around 500gph water was cloudy, flow must have been too fast.
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Post by Carl on Nov 2, 2018 15:21:39 GMT -5
They were used without UV for about 3 months when I added Seachem Stability to the water. Now I reduced flow and around 200gph it works fine, around 500gph water was cloudy, flow must have been too fast. Glad this solved this, it should have worked up to about 280 gph for the Vecton 200 and up to 500 for the Vecton 400. However if plumbed vertically, the dwell time is reduced by 10-20% Carl
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Post by michal_j on Nov 9, 2018 16:31:19 GMT -5
I investigated it a little more. I made line from the UV directly to the tank to measure water flow.
The best clarity I've got at around 40 gph. (I still got this aquamedic 11 W unit)
I don't know, maybe my lamp is really weak since it's not working at 200gph (at this flow water is really cloudy, even worse than when the UV is switched off).
Now I am finally satisfied with water clarity :-)
Regards Michael
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Nov 10, 2018 14:46:24 GMT -5
I investigated it a little more. I made line from the UV directly to the tank to measure water flow. The best clarity I've got at around 40 gph. (I still got this aquamedic 11 W unit) I don't know, maybe my lamp is really weak since it's not working at 200gph (at this flow water is really cloudy, even worse than when the UV is switched off). Now I am finally satisfied with water clarity :-) Regards Michael Some units are hard to get clarity, let alone true sterilization, so flow or watts are the only way to get it. Lamps should be changed every 6 mo really. At least every 12 mo or it's just a pretty blue light.
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Post by michal_j on Nov 10, 2018 16:22:39 GMT -5
I investigated it a little more. I made line from the UV directly to the tank to measure water flow. The best clarity I've got at around 40 gph. (I still got this aquamedic 11 W unit) I don't know, maybe my lamp is really weak since it's not working at 200gph (at this flow water is really cloudy, even worse than when the UV is switched off). Now I am finally satisfied with water clarity :-) Regards Michael Some units are hard to get clarity, let alone true sterilization, so flow or watts are the only way to get it. Lamps should be changed every 6 mo really. At least every 12 mo or it's just a pretty blue light. I've got 3 months old low pressure philips bulb so it should be working fine. This aquamedic unit has this so called "helix" feature which @carl described in his article. Maybe my lamp is just engineering joke :-) I am looking for an upgrade, possibly vecton unit. Best regards Michael
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Post by Carl on Nov 12, 2018 14:38:13 GMT -5
This aquamedic unit has this so called "helix" feature which @carl described in his article. Maybe my lamp is just engineering joke :-) I am looking for an upgrade, possibly vecton unit. Best regards Michael This helix feature is a gimmick that actually detracts from UV lamp efficiency due to distance from lamp. Carl
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