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Post by melissa on Apr 4, 2017 12:05:07 GMT -5
I haven't posted since Jack passed. I feel embarrassed that I keep thinking I've found the problem and then it turns out I haven't. I intended to start the tank blog as was suggested to me and I did with paper and pen but haven't posted anything. I certainly don't feel like I have anything useful to offer other fishkeepers in need of assistance. I read everything that was suggested to me and since December I raised my GH to 6, up from 3 over the course of about a month. I did this via water changes. I dosed the exchange water up to 6 but didn't dose the tank. I reasoned this would be the least stressful way to acclimatize the fish to the increase in GH. I purchased a TDS/EC meter and a new PH Pen. I tested regularly to try and find something off but found nothing. My water parameters never show ammonia or nitrite, my nitrates stay less than 10ppm, across all 4 tanks the PH stays stable between 7.4 and 7.6. My KH stays steady at 4. My tds sits about 200-230ppm and the EC is always about double that. I complete 25% pwc's weekly. The temp is between 78F and 81F and stays stable in each tank. I currently have 3 bettas and they have all been afflicted with what appears to be the same thing that took Jack. It begins very slowly, hardly discernible to me and completely imagined to my husband and family/friends. That is until it gets a good hold on the fish which takes about 2-3 months. Then it becomes very clear to everyone that something is wrong. It begins with fin rot. A pinhole here, a change of tail tip from normal color to black there, just tiny things that only I can see because I spend so much time with them. Then suddenly the fins begin being eaten and it starts moving a LOT faster. I still believe it has to do with the sharp smelling yellow stuff that grows on soft plastic in my tanks. It is especially fond of Fluval soft plastics. The plastics they use to make connectors and the tubing on their filters. I scrub it off, I have bleached the pieces it grows on, I have done EXCESSIVE water changes (when the tank does not have fish in it, of course), nothing I do makes it go away. I have 3 different set ups...one that is all fake, fake plants, pet store brand gravel, whisper 2-10i filter. One Fluval Flex all in one tank with flourite black sand and live plants. One with a Fluval 106 canister filter and pet store gravel and live plants. I intentionally made them different trying to pinpoint this issue but to no avail. I currently have 3 sick bettas and I can't get them well:( With all three sick at once I was limited for hospital tanks. One (Angelface) is in a half filled 5 gallon with a mini filter and heater and the other 2 (Qwerty and Tyler) were in 1 gallon bowls with a heaters but no filter for about 1.5 weeks. I bought some crafter's mesh and rigged up a divided 10g that I have moved the 2 fish into so they now have a filter as well. I started with a week of increased water changes. That wasn't helping. So I began methylene blue treatments for 5 days with AQ salt and I thought it was getting better so I stopped. I opted for in tank treatments this time because the baths didn't work for Jack and I thought maybe it had been too stressful for him. My newest betta Qwerty HATES being messed with. He gets VERY agitated. I had to cover his ziploc container when I cleaned his bowl because I thought he was going to throw himself out of it. After a week of methylene treatment qwerty and Tyler's bowls were almost slime free when I water changed. Angelface still had a lot of slime so after 2 days rest I began to use meth blue again for 3 more days. His tanks slime stopped as well so all three fish were back to water changes only. The slime build up on their bowls began to increase daily and so I began an in-tank treatment of Furan 2 and Kanaplex. Today is day 3 and I feel like the fin rot is getting worse on Qwerty and Angelface. I don't know what to do but my gut says this isn't working. I don't know if I should continue with the full treatment of Furan 2 and Kanamycin or if I should stop and try something else. I have included pics of the yellow stuff I strongly feel keeps making the fish sick and a pic of Angel when i got him late December and of what he looks like this week. I bought Angel because I felt sorry for him. His bowl was full of feces, he had fin curling and transparent fins and upon arrival home and testing his cup water was in Ammonia of 4ppm? The test was dark green. So I am aware he was sick when I got him. I have pics of Qwerty and Tyler as well but they are darker colored and so Angel is easiest to see.
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Post by Carl on Apr 4, 2017 12:59:35 GMT -5
Sorry about these continued issues. *Have you considered your betta sources, is it the same? *A complete bleaching/sterilization may have been called for after the last loss, but this can be a tough call that then also destroys a healthy bio filter.. Definitely in tough cases, baths are not enough, especially when you have systemic issues. *Use of products such as AAP StressGuard when introducing new fish or after minor injuries is something I would recommend Resource: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Seachem.html#stressguard*Making sure oxidative stress is low is important. This includes regular use of at least a small AAP Wonder Shell fragment. *While usually and quite frankly unfortunately not practical with small tanks and especially bowls, the use of a true UV Sterilizer is something I cannot emphasize more. One way around this is Betta tanks that are part of larger aquarium that is simply separated by dividers that also good cross flow. *Make sure when you perform water changes that you are not diluting medications QUOTE: "However we want to be careful to not change TOO MUCH WATER, as this can dilute medications, in particular the use Medicated Wonder Shells or similar slow release medications.
Often a reason to change water is to prevent toxic build up of ammonia or nitrites in a treatment tank. However if your ammonia never exceeds .5 ppm your need for a water change for this reason is basically nil. It is also noteworthy, that in a hospital tank in particular, if you have a fish that is not eating and/or being fed, normal respiration will add little to the nitrogen cycle.
As an example; I have made medication recommendations to many over the years, in particular non contract (non regular) service customers where by I set up a treatment regimen that in the end failed. In investigating, I found that they were changing 50% to 100% per day with no testing of ammonia to see if necessary. The result is the medications were not at therapeutic levels the proper amount of time to be effective. The bottom line is stick to the 20% water change and only go higher if ammonia/nitrites are climbing. If using a slow release medication, NO water change should be used unless absolutely necessary due to dangerous ammonia/nitrite levels (of course having a seeded sponge filter to introduce during treatments is something I strongly recommend any serious aquarium keeper always have on hand)."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Medication.html#change_water*If your current treatment fails to get good results, you might consider trying Maracyn Plus COMBINED with an appropriate size Medicated Wonder Shell. Resource: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/FritzMardelKordon.html#maracyn_plus*I would also follow all points outlined in these articles (I realize the UV Sterilization aspect is probably not possible): www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.htmlwww.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2016/09/how-to-treat-sick-fish.htmlCarl
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Apr 4, 2017 13:56:40 GMT -5
The only thing I think I could add is that the yellow seems to be bacterial, the way it keeps coming back. It much be in somewhere that's not getting cleaned... but shows up on the plastic, because it has a little rough surface to attach too.
I guess it would take a complete bleach start over.
Maybe consider sterilization, but that's hard to implement for betta's.
If the immunities can be kept boosted, it will help them fight off the bacteria. (minerals and UVC)
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Post by melissa on Apr 4, 2017 15:27:56 GMT -5
My betta sources are awful. There's only 3 places in town to get them and 2 are atrocious. My lfs only carries basic bettas, they only get fancy ones about 3 times a year and then only one or two. When I'm looking for a new betta I go on betta shipment day. I know when each store gets their bettas in and I know that they are put straight for sale with no quarantine. I try to get one the day they arrive. Angel was an exception. I just felt so bad for him.
I did consider bleaching everything and starting the tank over, I wish I had of now but as you said, it's a tough call especially when you don't know what was wrong in the first place and with Jack being my first fish I had made a lot of mistakes before he eventually got sick enough to die. I thought that I just reduced his life cycle with my self teaching. I changed out 100% of the water many times and scrubbed everything best I could and left the tank empty for a month before angel came home. I tested daily for 5 days to check for ammonia and/or nitrite spikes to ensure the cycle could stabilize again before I considered a new fish.
I did give them meth blue with salt baths before introducing them to their new homes and thought that Prime was water conditioner AND a Stressguard type product in one. "Prime® promotes the natural production and restoration of the slime coat rather than relying on artificial or non-native slime compounds." I just re-read both products and realize they aren't the same. I will make sure to get some.
I read your articles previously on UV sterilization but I only have it on my main community tank currently. It's a great expense but is on my long term goal list. We bought a used 55G last year that we intended to start up but haven't with our problems to date. I will consider dividing it for bettas so I could more easily put a sterilizer on it. Unfortunately, I can't order from AAP:( I live in Canada and once shipping, currency exchange rates and credit card fees for exchange rates are calculated it makes the cost to me slightly over double in Canadian dollars as it does to buy it locally:( If it counts for anything, I always go to the locally owned and operated pet store in town for the things I need even though it costs more than the box stores and/or online. I ONLY use Amazon when I can't get it locally and my lfs can't or won't order something for me.
I was doing 100% water changes on the 1 gallon bowls because they got so slimy in just 24 hours. I did use 5g pre-made water I kept with an airstone in it for those changes and I use a heater to warm the pail of water. PH, GH and temp were as close as possible as the water was from the same pre-made batch for 3 days. Is that still negative? I was just siphoning and wiping the 5 gallon. When I spoke of excessive water changes that was never with fish in. That is what I do when I first notice something wrong. When I up water changes with fish in I do not do bigger ones, I do them more often, 2-3 per week instead of one. I remove 2g from a 10g at each change.
After the meth blue treatment for 5 days the slime subsided in the tanks and I dropped to 1/3 water change per day with a full bowl cleaning once weekly. That was before I moved them to the newly divided 10g. I began the antibiotic treatment the day after they went into the filtered tank. Today is day 3 of furan 2/kanamycin treatment and furan 2 says to complete 25% change before re-dosing today. Are you saying I shouldn't have been doing the 100% changes to the bowls? I should do the 25% change today before re-dosing though, correct?
I have read the articles you posted today and I believe I'm following them well besides the UV sterilizer and Stressguard. I also don't bleach maintenance items because I chose to go separate for each. Each tank has it's own clean bucket and hose and ziploc container for water bailing. I thought I read that this was the ideal, if not most feasible prevention of cross contamination. I do share a dirty bucket. In the very far past I switched ornaments and plants from tank to tank but I haven't done that for months and wouldn't in the future. I know from experience now how that can go:/ So... when I re-read this I guess I am not following your suggested maintenance practices as closely as I thought:( I was really trying to.
As for the tanks, I read the article about running bleach through everything for a couple days. I plan to do that to all 3 and just start over. Will bleach kill whatever this is for sure? I mean are there other steps I can do to cover every angle besides throwing everything away? I read somewhere that bleach won't kill certain things and I REALLY need to make sure whatever it is, is gone. Should I just throw the live plants away? What about Seachem black flourite sand? Will the bleach water saturate the sand or should I just toss it? Should I re-dose the bleach each day? I know that bleach dissipates fairly quickly once it's being used and has contact with light.
Ty
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Post by melissa on Apr 4, 2017 15:37:31 GMT -5
I feel like the yellow stuff is in the sand. Qwerty got sick a lot faster than the other 2. I bought the flex a couple months ago and replaced a 10g re-using everything but the filter. I did rinse the sand with water for like 2 hours before I transferred it over. I made sure the water was pretty much clear before I stopped rinsing it. I also seeded it will media from the original filter on the 10g that I replaced. I let the cycle re-establish for just over 3 weeks before adding Qwerty. I keep mesh bags with media in them in both my canisters. Qwerty would not relax in his new home. At first I thought it was the flow of the new tank but we bought a ball valve and put it in and he still didn't calm down. Within 2 weeks of having him the fin rot had started already. That's when I felt sure that I wasn't "imagining" it on Angel or Tyler. Will the bleach kill it in the sand and media or should I just toss it?
Ty
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Apr 4, 2017 16:05:24 GMT -5
I new source has an effect from the get go... so you could do everything prefect, but the fish could have had a weak immunity and that would make have more of a chance to get sick if anything does get off. Still, we want to make sure we're doing the best we can from the start. Bleach would do the job killing everything that would cause this issue (bacteria) IMO. I know it kills virus as well. I would bleach it all and let it all dry in the hot sun. That's the best that can be done. Including substrate. Yes follow the treatment instructions... Once you get the tanks balanced, you shouldn't have to do 100% water changes, but that's hard in smaller bowls. This article may help: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_cleaning.html
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Post by melissa on Apr 4, 2017 17:02:40 GMT -5
Should I be using Stressguard while I'm treating with the kanaplex and furan 2?
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Post by Carl on Apr 5, 2017 9:18:52 GMT -5
Should I be using Stressguard while I'm treating with the kanaplex and furan 2? Yes, but in between dosings. As per water changes, the key is to not dilute ANY of the meds. I do think a good part of your problem is weak stock. If you were to start over (with bleaching) and have these same issues, this is a strong indicator the problem is not your tanks or care, rather the fish themselves. As for the UV Sterilizer, I have sold many to Canada, since I list only the base distributor replacement cost, the duties are only $16.10 CAD (as of 4-5-17) for the top of the line Vecton UV. The bigger cost is the dollar conversion of late changing the amount of $179.99 usd to $249.99 CAD. But even then, when one considers the closest UV sold in Canada by Big Als is the "Lifegard Aquatics QL Series UV Sterilizer Module - 25 W" sells for $319.99 CAD, which is still a considerably inferior product as per my use, this really is not that bad a deal. Just my thoughts here Carl
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Post by melissa on Apr 8, 2017 18:44:30 GMT -5
Sorry it's been a few days. My birthday just passed and between that, ripping down the betta tanks and keeping up with hospital tank treatments I've been busy. It's day 8 of a 4 day (1 treatment) of Furan 2 and a 6 day (1 treatment) of Kanaplex. I did not see any improvement until day 3. At that time the rot appears to have stopped but I'm not certain. To my eye there is no "clear sign of fin regrowth". There's just no sign of continued deterioration. I'm uncertain if that is considered a "good result" as Carl mentioned in his first response to me so I'm unsure what to do now. My gut says whatever is plaguing them is not gone, particularly in Angel. I've included some pics of him. I've re-read the medications and other applicable articles on AAP but I'm still unclear when to do a second treatment of meds, start new meds, or stop meds completely. I have definitely seen improvement but one treatment of Kanaplex is only 6 days and Furan 2 only 4. What I understood from the articles is that generally 10 days is needed to really complete an antibiotic treatment? Should I do another full treatment of both? If I understand Furan 2 well enough, it is most effective for external issues. Besides the fin deterioration I don't see anything outside the body. There's no visible slime, white things, red irritation etc. Angel's discolorations look like they are underneath to me and neither Tyler or Qwerty are in as bad shape as Angel. I feel like whatever is wrong is internal. Since it has slowed/stopped should I just go with another treatment of Kanaplex WITHOUT the Furan 2 just so they're dealing with less chemicals? Or do you think I should switch to the Maracyn plus combo mentioned by Carl? Or just stop for now and see how it goes? I'm confused:( Thanks in advance, Melissa Edit: the first pic is from April 4th, the other 3 are from today (April 8)
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Post by Carl on Apr 10, 2017 12:41:22 GMT -5
Normal Treatment time can vary per disease being treated.
I normally will follow the treatment regimen as per the package, although if using a combination treatment such as the Furan Two Kanamycin combination, I would extend the Kanamyicn it match the Furan Two
Switching would be best once water is changed and results are still not achieved. As I noted earlier, I am concerned over possible dilution of the current treatments, which could render them less effective (or even ineffective).
Your Betta's tail & fin rot looks mostly gone, but healing may take some time. however my bigger concern from looking at the picture, is that this Betta looks very weak and this may be the root cause. I second treatment using Kanmycin along with Metronidizole might be helpful, but this is far from guaranteed as genetics and other issues may be part of the problem. I would definitely make sure he eats well and consider a fish food soak using Metronidazole too. Optimum water quality is a must with weak fish, especially when the cause is not known.
Carl
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Post by melissa on Apr 17, 2017 15:21:06 GMT -5
I hope you had a nice vacation with your family. Thanks for the further advice as well. When I treated the fish I also treated one of the tanks to see if it would kill off the yellow stuff but it did not. I'm still trying to troubleshoot why my water quality is poor. I ripped down all the betta tanks, threw away all disposables such as bio media, filter pads, substrate etc. Ran .5g bleach for 10g of water through them all, rinsed, primed, ran them again and dried them thoroughly outside over the span of 3 days. I also did all my buckets hoses and other equipment. I used alcohol to wipe the exterior of all bottles such as Prime and Equilibrium, methylene blue etc. Everything in my house that's fish related has been thoroughly sanitized. I'm short on air pumps because the bettas are using them so I have not been aerating my exchange water as I usually do. I use tap water (cold tap only) which has a tds of 50 ppm out of the tap I use a 5g bucket and I add 4 grams of Seachem Equilibrium to the bucket to maintain an overall gh of 6 in my aquariums. I also add .5 ml of Prime to de-chlorinate it. Room temperature in my basement is about 68F so I keep a heater in it so it's ready to go when I need it as it takes about 4 hours to heat to 80F. I keep a lid loosely over the bucket. There is just a crack where the heater cord comes out. I use a Ziploc lunch container to scoop water from the bucket. After about 18 hours it leaves a slippery residue on the Ziploc container when scooping. I can also feel a slippery feeling on the inside walls of the bucket, the airline tubing and the heater. Is this just the slime coat protector in Prime or is it a water/procedure issue? There is some "stuff" that fills up the bottom of the tanks within 24 hours after a water change as well. It's kind of fluffy/flaky. I think it is the Equilibrium because I have poured tap water and let it sit for couple of days and this stuff does not build up. I've included a pic of it. Thank you in advance for any thoughts. Attachments:
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Apr 17, 2017 17:05:17 GMT -5
The sterilization process sounds good.
I'm not aware of a coat protector in Prime.
The slippery residue I feel with my mixing reservoir sometimes too, so I wonder if it's something from the tap or a bacteria that forms with the plastic that sits in the water. Don't think it's harmful.
Im actually not sure what the white specks are. It almost looks like parts of the bucket or old equilibrium that sits on the bottom of the bucket and never dissolves. Maybe mix your water with warm water.
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Post by melissa on Apr 18, 2017 8:57:20 GMT -5
Ty:)
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Post by Carl on Apr 18, 2017 9:17:08 GMT -5
As noted Prime does not have any specific slime coat additives, however on the fish themselves it improves osmotic function which in turn helps the fish naturally generate the slime coat QUOTE: "USE: For removal of chlorine, chloramines, and the de-toxifying of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. This product adds electrolytes that aid in natural slime coat generation and proper osmotic function which generally all this needed for fish stress."Reference: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2007/04/aquarium-water-conditioners.htmlCarl
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Post by melissa on May 2, 2017 10:27:11 GMT -5
An update. So far it seems that my bettas are holding their own. I "think" I can see regrowth beginning on Qwerty and Angel although I'm not certain because I never did successfully treat Jack so I don't know what it should look like. There are no more fin bits showing up at the bottom of the tank and their tails are getting darker. Angel's fin rays have black lines along them and seem more "filled in". He still has a lot of black coloring under his scales. I read that some fish can develop black skin as a defense mechanism. Not sure if that is true or not? This is a portion of the article: "Within the (melanin) cell resides thousands of granules of pigment. This is how fish and more commonly amphibians change colour to evade predators. They are stimulated by adrenalin; migrate to the center of the cell, and thus lightening the colour of the skin tissue. The cell can also disperse the pigment making a darker colouration. The pigments can also be agitated by other chemicals in the body. Black Pigment cells (ormelanophores) respond to the presence of Leukine (a chemical used to attract fibroblasts, the cells used to repair damaged tissue.) Consequently the containing cell goes black, rather than just darker or lighter when the pigment migrates." Qwerty just has very dark edges to his fins but he was never as bad off as Angel was and he is a dark blue fish with some red coloring. I think he is on the mend. Tyler still has a few bent fin tips (he's a fringetail) but they aren't turning black anymore and I haven't noticed any new ones. I am starting to feel like the fish gods are telling me that I am not meant for this hobby, however. As I mentioned I ripped down all the betta tanks and sterilized them. When I got them set back up I was going to take some media from my main tank to seed their new filter media. To my horror I saw something on one of my guppies and upon googling it, I am pretty certain my main tank has Callamanus worms The guppy had red threads coming out of him. I got the platties first and quarantined them for a month before purchasing the guppies. I quarantined them for 3 weeks. One of them died the second day I had them at home. He didn't look well from day one. He was much smaller than the other 5 guppies and his tail seemed too small for his body but it wasn't shredded or looking like fin rot. I just thought he was a sickly runt. I replaced him and continued the quarantine. All seemed well. All six of them seemed healthy and active. The day after 3 weeks in quarantine I acclimated them to the main tank. For about another month things appeared to be going well in that tank until I was about to take the media out. Since then the guppy died and the threads are showing in 2 more guppies and one of the platties. I read the articles regarding worms and have found some Metroplex and as stated before I got some Paraguard. I have been giving them one hour dips in Paraguard daily because it's apparently not been proven to be safe for snails. I have nowhere to put the snails:/ All the betta tanks are gone and now the poor boys have to go through a cycle. I have been watching them closely for the worms but so far I don't see any. Only time will tell I guess but they definitely don't have any red threads and their poop is not changing at all. I see no signs of clear mucous in it. It's solid and normal color. As stated before I do have clean buckets and hoses for each tank so I'm just praying that SOMETHING goes right for me and the bettas were not exposed to the worms:/ I don't know what to do with my 2 nerite snails? I'm afraid to put them with the bettas and I have no other tanks going besides the one they are in. I did keep the plants that were in the betta tanks. I put them in an old Britta water filter container. About 2 gallons with an air stone. I have struggled with plants since the beginning and thought I'd practice on them since there would be no fish to worry about. This container has no filter or heater, however, just the airstone. I considered buying a heater and putting the snails in there until I'm finished treating for the worms. Some people say the Paraguard won't kill the snails and others say it will. A non cycled tank is not ideal I know but I am out of options. My concern with pulling them out is that they may carry the worms back into the main tank after treatment? I read that if I start in tank treatment of Paraguard at 1/4 dose and work up to full dose that my snails have a much better chance at tolerating the med. I can't seem to find any definitive info on whether the snails can carry the worms, although it seems so. Metroplex has been ordered through my LFS and should finally be here later today. Besides the snail issue it was my intent to feed the main tank with them Metroplex through food soaks and treat the tank with Paraguard. I'm so frustrated and embarrassed. It must seem like I'm a liar about the care I do put in to my aquariums. I've given myself 8 more months before I call it. I read that up to 70% of new fish keepers quit within the first year because the learning curve to properly maintaining aquariums is so much greater than we are initially led to believe. I feel like 2 years is a fair go of it I'm so tired of feeling like I'm chasing on disaster after another. I think next time (obviously not for some time) I purchase fish I will take your advice and leave town. I heard of a really good place about 3 hours from my home. It is my understanding the gentleman who owns the store is an avid hobbyist and his store is fish only. It isn't a "pet store". He cares for all his livestock himself and his employee is just there to run the till and keep the shelves stocked. This sounds promising to me. What to do with these snails? Uncycled tank, or build them up to Paraguard dosing? Ty in advance, Melissa
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Post by devonjohnsgard on May 2, 2017 13:14:42 GMT -5
Thanks for the update and sorry for all the troubles, Been doing this 7 years and still run into troubles, even with tall the "education" I have. Paraguard is generally safe for snails, which used as directed. I've never had an issue. "ParaGuard is generally shrimp and snail safe when used as directed" www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Seachem.html#paraguardI've seen the darking of the scales, but can't explain the reason why like you did. I know growing fins back takes a long time. Keep at it. Nothings easy. You're doing a great job. Best you can.
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Post by Carl on May 4, 2017 9:07:37 GMT -5
Sorry to read of your frustrations! I agree as per the development of black skin as a defense mechanism, I have seen this MANY times. I am not totally clear of what you asking as per snails, but as Devon noted, GENERALLY ParaGuard is safe, but certain snails under certain circumstances can be harmed by ParaGuard Assuming Camallanus worms, their eggs can infest an aquarium for six months. Snails are not generally considered a host, but I think for a successful treatment, snails should not be present For a medicated food prep, I would also use Praziquantel along with Metronidazole (General cure has both) www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumPharmaceuticalsAPI.html#generalUnless I am missing something, it seems possible you are introducing new issues with new fish, so maybe a different source should be tried. But maybe I did not follow your last post well (I just got back from the ER and the meds I am on has my head spinning) Carl
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Post by melissa on May 8, 2017 14:14:00 GMT -5
Sorry I was unclear. devonjohnsgard- After your reply I began dosing the tank with snails in with Paraguard. So far they seem unaffected. Thanks. @carl-I'm sorry to hear you've been ill. I hope it passes quickly and uneventfully as possible. I was asking if the the snails should be in the tank during treatment or out. You answered "out". However, I've decided to leave them in and treat the whole tank with Paraguard and feed the Metroplex because I don't want to risk passing them to my bettas if they haven't been infected yet, especially since they've just been sick and now are having to endure the cycling process. I'm not sure what else I can safely do with the snails? So you are suggesting to treat the whole tank with Paraguard and then feed them General Cure for 10 days? Do repeat this in 3 weeks to kill newly hatched worms or is it a one time treatment? Do I have to do this for 6 months!? Sorry I think I'm confusing myself. I will definitely try another city for fish in the future. I have recently heard of one about 3 hours away that is supposed to be very good. All fish-no other pets or pet supplies, owner operated. It sounds promising. I feel like a business that solely depends on fish sales and fish related items should care more than avg about the health of their livestock. Thank you
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Post by Carl on May 9, 2017 11:27:20 GMT -5
So you are suggesting to treat the whole tank with Paraguard and then feed them General Cure for 10 days? Do repeat this in 3 weeks to kill newly hatched worms or is it a one time treatment? Do I have to do this for 6 months!? Sorry I think I'm confusing myself. Yes. A stronger in tank treatment may also have to be done, such as with Clout. Repeating in 3 weeks is a good idea too As per the 6 month question (which is an excellent question with no 100% correct answer), my thoughts are likely yes, but not continually, rather after successful treatment, just repeat this regimen in 6 months ONCE.. Regards; Carl
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Post by melissa on May 23, 2017 9:58:55 GMT -5
My last update on the bettas. They seem to be continuing to heal. The bald spot on along the top of Angel's back seems to be healing up as it's turning white again and looks like scales instead of skin. His fins are getting less and less transparent and have more black lines running through them which I read is also a sign of healing. They follow the same pattern as fin rays would. Lastly, the places on his body that were stained my the Methylene Blue are very blue now instead of being so dark/black underneath. Tyler still has no more black tips on his fins and most of the bent ones are gone or straightened, I'm not sure which is more likely. Qwerty's fins have always been the hardest to see damage on because he's so dark colored naturally but if my are not deceiving me, they appear to be filling out again and getting larger/longer. Qwerty does seem the most sensitive with the cycling process. He has some bad days where he just rests unless it's feeding time but he still eats vigorously and so I believe it's just the expected stress of fish in cycling. I do pwc's when the Ammonia levels are at .5ppm and dose Prime every 48 hours and I've been using Stressguard in between the Prime doses.
Once again, I appreciate the advice given and am grateful that I was able to prevent their deaths this time round. I've also been smell testing the water the water each day looking for signs that the nasty yellow stuff I believe made Jack and these three sick is returning but so far so good. In the past it has taken about a month to return enough to be seen with the naked eye and be smelled again after I have tried to clean and bleach the items it appears on. So I won't feel confident it's gone for a few more weeks but I'm optimistic that ripping down the tanks and sterilizing them finally destroyed whatever it was.
So far I don't believe I'm having much success with the callamanus worms in my main tank, I'm simply slowing them down but at least I have hopefully solved the betta issues and I'll keep working at the worms. I have some questions about fish food but it's certainly not an emergency so I''ll make a new post in the appropriate thread.
Thanks again, Melissa
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