Salt water start up

[cashay]

I want to start a salt water tank, Are they harder to keep up then a fresh water? Do I still use the same kind of filters? How different are the numbers? like GH, PH, etc..... I have looked at articles but I want someone who has one and is very familar with them to throw me some advice Please, Thanks in advance
Sherry
aka cashay

[devonjohnsgard]

What I know is in that article. A few more test to measure, a little more mixing, other things to learn about the creatures, but don't think it's much harder.

[Carl]

May 23, 2016 14:35:55 GMT -5 cashay said:

I want to start a salt water tank, Are they harder to keep up then a fresh water? Do I still use the same kind of filters? How different are the numbers? like GH, PH, etc..... I have looked at articles but I want someone who has one and is very familar with them to throw me some advice Please, Thanks in advance
Sherry
aka cashay

Sherry;

Generally filtration is about the same, although high nitrates can be more of a problem.
For instance a canister filter can still be used, but I would make sure to set it up with more bio filtration including Matrix.
A FSB Filter would also be suggested.
A HOB Protein Skimmer can definitely take it up a notch, but it is not necessary from my experience for a marine fish or FOWLR tank

GH s not generally monitored, but Calcium is . KH is more correctly referred to as alkalinity.

Personally I have been keeping marine/saltwater aquariums since 1977 with little issues even in the beginning other than diseases and later reef aquariums were more difficult because good lighting was not easy to come by.
I would definitely start with a Fish or FOWLR tank, not reef.
Definitely get a good level one capable UV Sterilizer such as the Vecton

I would be easiest if you could provide some specific questions after reading these articles:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Basic_Saltwater.html
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Saltwatersetup.html

Carl

[cashay]

I have a canister filter and I can take the little ceramic balls out and replace with the matrix, question (1) : Do i need to keep replacing the matrix after a while or just rinse them like the little balls, question (2) The last time I used the canister filter my water kept turning black, Im assuming it was because of the charcole in the little pad, even after I rinsed them before putting in. The tube that ran back into the tank only dribbled coming out, didnt seem like it was working very well. Question (3) How often do I need to disconnect the filter and rinse it out, That seemed to be the hardest thing for me, I couldnt get the tubing off so I had to drag the whole thing to my bath tub to clean it and always made a mess so needless to say I tucked that filter out of the way and just started using a sponge and a HOB but I would like to at least get my money's worth out of the canister one.any ideas what I was doing wrong? Also with a 75 gallon tank How much sand would it take and a stupid question (4) Does the salt come in the sand or is that something I add also? Question (5) Do I need to get different lighting also, will it fit on the hood that came with my tank? Are they as easy to install as the regular lights in the hood?

[Carl]

(1) The Matrix should only be rinsed with tank water or de-chlorinated tap water. Rarely changed unless it becomes "mungy"

(2)Some carbons are worse than others at adding black dust. I will generally use only very small amounts of caron, and only increase if something needs to be removed from the water
Here is a carbon I recommend:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumPondFilterMaterial.html#carbon2

(3)I recommend and have used quick disconnect hevy duty unions to make servicing of canister filters easier with less mess (or potential mess from leaks)

Resource:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/PlumbingParts.html#union

(4)The Marine Salt is something you pre-mix in water and let aerate & mix well before adding to the tank, including with water changes.
I use a 32 gallon rubbermaid container for this

You then test the salinity or more specifically m the specific gravity using a hydrometer. Generally 1.019 to 1.023 works well with fish. 1.025 for reef aquariums

Here is a salt I recommend:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/BulkSeaSaltFerts.html#reef-salt

Hydrometer:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquariumtestkit.html#hydrometer

(5) I would suggest the AquaRay Marine or Reef While LED light, which can be mounted in your hood or placed directly on the tank top (with spacers as er directions on our website)

Resource:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/LEDLights.html

Thanks for being more specific with your questions!

Carl

[devonjohnsgard]

May 23, 2016 18:35:38 GMT -5 cashay said:

I have a canister filter and I can take the little ceramic balls out and replace with the matrix, question (1) : Do i need to keep replacing the matrix after a while or just rinse them like the little balls,

Never replace them. Just rinse once in a while.

May 23, 2016 18:35:38 GMT -5 cashay said:

question (2) The last time I used the canister filter my water kept turning black, Im assuming it was because of the charcole in the little pad, even after I rinsed them before putting in. The tube that ran back into the tank only dribbled coming out, didnt seem like it was working very well.

Haven't really heard of this. The AAP canisters don't have charcole in the pads, but do come with Carbon. Never heard of anyone having a problem.

May 23, 2016 18:35:38 GMT -5 cashay said:

Question (3) How often do I need to disconnect the filter and rinse it out, That seemed to be the hardest thing for me, I couldnt get the tubing off so I had to drag the whole thing to my bath tub to clean it and always made a mess so needless to say I tucked that filter out of the way and just started using a sponge and a HOB but I would like to at least get my money's worth out of the canister one.any ideas what I was doing wrong? Also with a 75 gallon tank How much sand would it take and a stupid

This depends on how fast Nitrates go up based on bio-load. My suggestion would be to get a small canister and a sand filter with NPX bioplastics. This is a Nitrate and Phosphate reducer. Help go longer in between filter cleanings and would give max bio-filtration.

May 23, 2016 18:35:38 GMT -5 cashay said:

question (4) Does the salt come in the sand or is that something I add also? Question (5) Do I need to get different lighting also, will it fit on the hood that came with my tank? Are they as easy to install as the regular lights in the hood?

You need to add salt every water change.

and you'll need reef lighting depending on what you want to grow.

[troybtj]

pH is a narrower range, there isn't really a GH number due to it being far too high, specific gravity is used instead.

For a FOWLR (Fish Only With Live Rock), they are more work than freshwater, especially the setup phase. The acceptable range for things is a fraction as wide (pH range, Nitrate range, etc) as it is for freshwater, so must be monitored frequently and corrected before accidentally killing the tank denizens. On that note, nearly everything is more expensive, especially water changes and fishies. The bonus to all of this is that the available fish can be much cooler looking!

If you want a "Reef" setup, with Coral and such, the cost goes up from FOWLR mostly due to extremely narrow ranges for water parameters. More specific lighting and protein skimmers are needed.

For the first 6 months, you aren't keeping an aquarium, you are keeping a chemistry set. It can drive a person back to the halcyon days of super easy freshwater.