|
Post by mmfed01 on Apr 20, 2016 2:48:37 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by troybtj on Apr 20, 2016 7:43:43 GMT -5
I ordered some from Bob's fish and tackle store. Should be here in a couple days. I'm not sure what the "50" means for the qty, is that one of the tubes in the photo? How long does a root tab tend to last?
I'm about to cave in and put a bit of my yellow water in it, I'm pretty positive it's got Everything Plants Crave (and a lot that they don't), but the water nice and clear and pretty the way it is now - if you ignore the snails.
|
|
|
Post by mmfed01 on Apr 20, 2016 9:24:17 GMT -5
You'll get a bag of 50 capsules. They last about 3-4 months in my personal usage. I've found that plants like any living thing will let you know when it is happy or needs help. Mike
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Apr 20, 2016 15:05:02 GMT -5
Is there a particular brand or type of Root Tabs I should be looking for, or is "Root Tabs" the actual name of the product? I'll check locally for those once I understand the meaning, I've seen what you speak of, but in different versions from Tetra, API, and some other company I forgot. Here is a link to the AAP/SeaChem Root Tabs: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Seachem.html#flourishAlso keep in mind what Devon stated, these were some good points as per limited nutrients in the water column. This is especially and issue when RO or RO/DI water is used, as the basic water replenishers are not even close to what the plants need for growth. This is also why lines such as NilocG have gown so popular of late in high growth planted aquarium keeping circles Carl
|
|
|
Post by troybtj on Apr 20, 2016 15:59:47 GMT -5
Is there a particular brand or type of Root Tabs I should be looking for, or is "Root Tabs" the actual name of the product? I'll check locally for those once I understand the meaning, I've seen what you speak of, but in different versions from Tetra, API, and some other company I forgot. Here is a link to the AAP/SeaChem Root Tabs: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Seachem.html#flourishAlso keep in mind what Devon stated, these were some good points as per limited nutrients in the water column. This is especially and issue when RO or RO/DI water is used, as the basic water replenishers are not even close to what the plants need for growth. This is also why lines such as NilocG have gown so popular of late in high growth planted aquarium keeping circles Carl I'm very interested in the NilocG line, I'll see how my current supply of stuff works out once the Fe gets here and then decide which direction to move. I've added P and K to the tank, will add Iron once in, and thne in a week I should be seeing something. The Water Sprite has already gone into mutant alien speed growth with the addition of Flourish every other day instead of once per week. Thanks to some click mistakes, I'll have some dry fert stuff to experiment with as well, but I do like the fast and simple pump system that NilocG offers.
|
|
|
Post by devonjohnsgard on Apr 20, 2016 17:01:01 GMT -5
Those swords are crowded by the sprite. The way leaf uptake nutrients, is that the nurt/fert/co2, has to physically TOUCH the leaf....think about how well it can do that with the sprite right there to suck it up. It's just out competing it. So overdosing the tank, means enough food for everyone! Root tabs will deliver to the roots, so it's not really an issue. Yea...plants can be bullies too!
|
|
|
Post by mmfed01 on Apr 21, 2016 7:06:44 GMT -5
Troy, don't feel bad about the click/buying. A guy on my squad told me that on our days off and with the help of a couple glasses of red wine, he ordered $200 dollars worth of liquid grass. The confirmation email waiting for him when he woke up was his only memory. Bad part is a management company handles his lawn and landscaping. Oops.
Mike
|
|
|
Post by coco on Apr 21, 2016 9:03:56 GMT -5
Troy, don't feel bad about the click/buying. A guy on my squad told me that on our days off and with the help of a couple glasses of red wine, he ordered $200 dollars worth of liquid grass. The confirmation email waiting for him when he woke up was his only memory. Bad part is a management company handles his lawn and landscaping. Oops. Mike That will teach him to get drunk and get on his computer!
|
|
|
Post by mmfed01 on Apr 21, 2016 9:07:51 GMT -5
I told him next time go to AAP's website and order a Vecton. I'll take it off his hands....
|
|
|
Post by troybtj on Apr 22, 2016 2:48:28 GMT -5
I told him next time go to AAP's website and order a Vecton. I'll take it off his hands.... I know a guy like that as well. He'll order something and 90% of the time, I'll be able to buy it after about the next credit card bill, or when he's bored with it. I've gotten some excellent deals that way, with only a little bit of guilt associated. He's not into fishies, though.
|
|
|
Post by troybtj on Apr 22, 2016 3:38:28 GMT -5
Quick question that doesn't really change anything...
With the NilocG "NPK" Macros AND Micros 16 oz. SET, is that two 16 oz bottles or 2 8oz bottles?
What size bottle is the NilocG THRIVE "All In One" ?
How much product is dispensed with "One Pump"?
|
|
|
Post by devonjohnsgard on Apr 22, 2016 10:48:09 GMT -5
Quick question that doesn't really change anything... With the NilocG "NPK" Macros AND Micros 16 oz. SET, is that two 16 oz bottles or 2 8oz bottles? What size bottle is the NilocG THRIVE "All In One" ? How much product is dispensed with "One Pump"? right, 2 16 oz bottles. So, 32oz. 16 oz AIO The pump is 1ml, with dosing instructions, depending on method, on the label.
|
|
|
Post by troybtj on Apr 22, 2016 11:35:33 GMT -5
Quick question that doesn't really change anything... With the NilocG "NPK" Macros AND Micros 16 oz. SET, is that two 16 oz bottles or 2 8oz bottles? What size bottle is the NilocG THRIVE "All In One" ? How much product is dispensed with "One Pump"? right, 2 16 oz bottles. So, 32oz. 16 oz AIO The pump is 1ml, with dosing instructions, depending on method, on the label. Thanks. My next question is: Since I'm growing the Water Sprite to help de-pollute from the high bio load, is there an option for one without the Nitrogen, or is the NO3 in the fert minimal compared to the 40ppm+ in the water already?
|
|
|
Post by devonjohnsgard on Apr 22, 2016 16:52:21 GMT -5
From what I understand, there's a difference between the Nitrates at the end of the cycle, vs the Nitrogen not going through the cycle. I would say it's still recommended to keep low Nitrates, then dose the Nitrogen. What I heard is you'll end up with a higher Nitrate reading, but it's not toxic. Our manufacture might have more information.
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Apr 22, 2016 17:22:17 GMT -5
From what I understand, there's a difference between the Nitrates at the end of the cycle, vs the Nitrogen not going through the cycle. I would say it's still recommended to keep low Nitrates, then dose the Nitrogen. What I heard is you'll end up with a higher Nitrate reading, but it's not toxic. Our manufacture might have more information. It is also a mater of bio availability. In chemistry the ending of "ate" as in nitrate indicates more oxygen atoms, versus "ite" as in nitrite. Then there is straight nitrogen without any oxygen atoms (which is also part of this plant fert's formula) What this means for the plant I do not know for sure, but I am guessing have different molecules is important for plants and likely different among species A few thoughts for plant growth as to the "why use nitrates" over other sources of nitrogen*Nitrates limit the uptake of harmful elements, such as chloride, into large quantities. *Nitrates synergistically promote the uptake of cations, such as K, Ca and Mg *The conversion of nitrates to amino acids occurs in the leaf. This process is fueled by solar energy, which makes it an energy-efficient process *Nitrates can be readily absorbed by the plant and do not need to undergo any further conversion Carl
|
|
|
Post by troybtj on Apr 22, 2016 18:38:21 GMT -5
From what I understand, there's a difference between the Nitrates at the end of the cycle, vs the Nitrogen not going through the cycle. I would say it's still recommended to keep low Nitrates, then dose the Nitrogen. What I heard is you'll end up with a higher Nitrate reading, but it's not toxic. Our manufacture might have more information. Great. I now need to figure out how to make the Mollies swallow birth control pills. Two more had batches of 20-30 each today, and it's pretty busy in there. I remember worrying about keeping the babies safe from mom eating them, but that hasn't been an issue at all. Producing about 30 1" long per month to the LFS to use to sell or as food for other fish. In sad news, the Top of this yardstick of molly family trees, Survivor, has some sort of lesion on her port gill plate. I'll maybe start another thread in the illen forum, but I'm treating with Stress Guard daily right now (just noticed 2 days ago). She's not clamping fins, and just had more babies today, so I don't think it's too serious at this point.
|
|
|
Post by troybtj on Apr 24, 2016 4:33:30 GMT -5
I decided it was too crowded. So I de-crowded it. Now there's not as much competition for nutrients, and it's a lot less green! I forgot how much I like the black substrate for a while there. Still need to get the plants I really want, but this is the getting started phase yet. Mostly because I am not sure what I really want to do with it, full aquascaping, or partial, or another boring tank.
|
|
|
Post by Carl on Apr 24, 2016 10:39:02 GMT -5
I like black substrate too (nice contrast with plants IMO)! I also like coral sea pebbles and many other natural substrates What about a maybe a large rock in the far left corner? Carl
|
|
|
Post by troybtj on Apr 24, 2016 13:39:11 GMT -5
I like black substrate too (nice contrast with plants IMO)! I also like coral sea pebbles and many other natural substrates What about a maybe a large rock in the far left corner? Carl The Molly baby tank is a large polished pebble substrate mixed with matrix, which is similar in size. So this one I'm liking the dark, it sets off the fish and plants more. I'd like a rock for the left hand side, but not a typical rock, something like a black monolith. I'm not sure what the material would be, but something that is mostly black with maybe some lighter streaks, with a rectangular profile and some ledges for maybe a plant to "hang" from. With that, I could make a functional "sand river".
|
|
|
Post by troybtj on Apr 30, 2016 18:09:36 GMT -5
Question for mmfed01, The plants on the "left side" (in photos) of the tank are growing MUCH slower than the ones on the right side of the tank. The left side is the "wake zone" area from the SunSun 303B filter output, while the right side is the Fluval HOB filter output which is a bit more gentle. I guess there's a limit to the amount of circulation that is good? It's not so much as to be uprooting plants, but it's mostly used as an "exercise area" by the fish. What should I change to encourage growth on the left side? angle the spraybar further toward the surface to sap some energy? If I can't get the "easy" plants going with all of this, going for the harder to keep plants would be a waste of money at this point.
|
|