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Post by troybtj on Dec 1, 2015 16:39:17 GMT -5
The 10 gallon is doing good, breeding mollies which I trade for all sorts of stuff at the LFS, in addition to growing copious amounts of water sprite, which I also give to the LFS. I'm buying the tank and substrate from LFS, and everything else from American Aquarium Products. The substrate will be Seachem Black Flourite. The lighting will be "Intense" (still figuring that part out so I don't light up the entire room). Want a mellow tank, no Cichlids/Oscars/Angelfish. I could stick with tetras and mollies, but maybe a bit more variety and color. Will have driftwood. What I have so far: 38 gallon perfectly level stand (built myself, should support a bit over 2500lbs according to AutoCAD) What is waiting in the wings for me to actually "Do It" 38 Gallon All Glass Aquarium + top 2 bags of Black Flourite 2 Medium Sized Chunks of driftwood 1 AquaClear 40 HOB Filter (tossed in on deal with LFS) 1 100W Heater (included in deal from LFS) 1 Fluval 24" LED light (included in deal from LFS) Coming in from AAP: Via Aqua 100 Watt Digital Titanium Heater ATI Hortz. Thermometer HW303B Canister Filter Filter-Max 3 Sponge for Canister filter intake Pre-Cut Poly Fiber Pad for 303 Matrix 500 mL (3) Sponge filter for AquaClear Seachem AmmoniaAlert badge Future: Gro-Beam 600s or maybe a couple tiles once I figure out mounting and vertical clearance Aquaclear and Canister filter will be getting Matrix instead of their ceramic beads/volcanic rock, and I'm thinking of adding a line of the white/grey to the black substrate with Matrix for looks. Will be starting with seeded filter/decorations + fish food method. I need some suggestions for plants, such as best place to get some "carpet" for the driftwood, maybe a sword, and a few taller plants for background. Need suggestions for stocking, wouldn't like to go above about 60% of capacity right now in case something catches my eye later. Concept is all non-aggressive fish, I don't want to be dealing with torn fins and damaged fins. So I'll cross out cichlids/oscars/angels and Gouramis right now. Just a "happy tank" with lots of green growing things, the fish are there to fertilize the plants. I'm thinking plants now, and getting the fish at Christmas. I'll be dosing with Flourish Excel and Flourish, no CO2 setup, trying to keep this simple and cheap. Reason for going with the bigger canister is lift height, so I can add a FSB filter at a later time if things aren't keeping up.
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Post by Carl on Dec 1, 2015 19:08:29 GMT -5
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Post by troybtj on Dec 1, 2015 21:00:48 GMT -5
I Have medium wonder shells, one is right for that size, correct? It'll be using 50% RODI water, so I'm also adding Seachem Replenish along with Alkaline Buffer to get KH around 100 - 150. The canister has UV, but the flow rate is rather high, the next one down didn't have enough lift to get to top of tank (36" tall stand), so I figure this should work. If it creates a tsunami, is there an adjustment? Can the filters be turned off during feeding time? I'll be adding the FSB and UV once it's fully stocked, I'm just starting simple, and I'm not sure 100W is enough heat. I mostly need a source for good plants and suggestions for mixes right now. Nitrogen cycle should be going in 2-3 weeks with used Matrix + used filter in new tank with fish food added. I'm in no terrible rush, just want it set up and working next week is all.
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Post by Carl on Dec 2, 2015 15:20:12 GMT -5
For plants, we have this as a suggested source for live plants from our planted aquarium care article: www.aquariumplants.com/Default.aspWe used to have more recommendations, but some of these racked up complaints from readers and also had some less than honest business practices, so we felt we had to drop them. Here is our article: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumPlants.htmlFilters can be turned off during feeding as long as you remember to turn them back on Whether 100 watts is enough heat depends upon your room ambient temperature. If your ambient temperature is 68F or above this should be enough, but if not another heater may be needed. Further information about Heaters: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2007/01/aquarium-heaters-preset-vs-non-preset.htmlGenerally the UVs on ANY canister filter that have these as part of the filter is only effective for clarification, not sterilization. In part due to flow, but also due to design. From the UV Sterilization Article: "As well as some new Aquarium Canister filters that come with built in UV Sterilizers in the top (such as the Grech, SunSun, and related canister filters).
These are rarely as effective as a separate UV unit for these reasons;
Flow rate is often too fast for proper contact/exposure and rated wattage to generate the correct temperature around the bulb. The water in these style units is not contained in a small space around the UVC bulb (less than 3 cm) rather the flow is in a large area around the bulb which is generally not adequate for good UVC exposure/ dwell time. Many pressurized pond filters and aquarium canister filters are not 100% in their internal flow patterns, meaning a certain percentage of water that passes through the filter is never even routed next to the UVC lamp, UNLIKE a separate UV Sterilizer!"Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#uvqualityCarl
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Post by troybtj on Dec 3, 2015 19:57:37 GMT -5
Would it be OK to use the liquid ammonia method to boost bacterial growth in combination with the seasoned media?
Just thought about vacuuming out a lot of fish food....
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Dec 4, 2015 12:21:00 GMT -5
Would it be OK to use the liquid ammonia method to boost bacterial growth in combination with the seasoned media? Just thought about vacuuming out a lot of fish food.... This is an interesting question. Combined cycling methods. I would think it could only help, but would have to have a enough filter media for the cycle process.
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Post by troybtj on Dec 4, 2015 18:26:18 GMT -5
I'll give it a shot and let you know!
The fittings on canister to filter sponge III were broken in shipping, well, two of them, but the one I needed, along with the center gap of the sponge part being cracked (grey screen inside the Filter Max III). I added Matrix, some used, one new, to the middle tray and it's all going great!
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Post by Carl on Dec 4, 2015 19:34:34 GMT -5
I'll give it a shot and let you know! The fittings on canister to filter sponge III were broken in shipping, well, two of them, but the one I needed, along with the center gap of the sponge part being cracked (grey screen inside the Filter Max III). I added Matrix, some used, one new, to the middle tray and it's all going great! Sorry for the damage Is this the Filter Max #3 you are referring to? As this would fit to a canister filter. Could you post a picture of the broken parts? Carl
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Post by troybtj on Dec 5, 2015 14:27:00 GMT -5
I have gorilla taped the filter back together and am using it, but the other fittings have white cracks on them. It's no biggie, I'll be placing an order here this week anyway. It's only $5. Basically, all the clear parts were cracked out of the box, and I believe I cracked the two grey parts trying to extract the clear part in after my kid put the wrong one in all the way and backwards. I can still post pics if you want. This is the Filter Max 3, yes. I'll probably order another one and a 25 pack of API test strips, possibly another heater, though this one is holding the tank at 78 fine, and some other assorted things, I'll get to lighting once I can see to the back of the tank. The canister filter is Great! I expected at least a slight noise from it, but it's entirely silent. Wish I could say the same for the Fluval HOB I have as a backup. The ammonia + seeded media seems to be working swimmingly. I added a couple capfuls of clear ammonia, enough to make the Seachem Alert badge go fully dark blue (and then some), and 18 hours later it's at the light blue "Alert" color. Haven't checked nitrites/nitrates, since I still can't see through the tank clearly, that Flourite dust is some fine stuff that lingers. How it looks with This Light (36" Fluval LED)
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Post by troybtj on Dec 5, 2015 17:43:30 GMT -5
One of the pieces, the elbows were fine, the other one is in use with similar thing, it doesn't fit firmly onto intake, hence the gorilla tape. I think I'm putting it together right, with just the lip sticking into the grey "basket" inside the foam and the intake pipe onto the extension part? That's how I set up the other one that is working fine.
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Post by Carl on Dec 5, 2015 17:59:20 GMT -5
There are many ways to put together the Filter Max to a canister filter or HOB filter. Here is just one from the Filter Max web Page: Source: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/PreFilter.htmlNote the Teflon Tape to make a more snug fit. Gorilla tape on the outside can also help with a better fit Let us know when you make the next order (note to merhant section) nd we can include a bag of the Filter Max Adpaters Carl
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Post by troybtj on Dec 5, 2015 18:26:17 GMT -5
I guess I could machine some ends that would hold rails for a couple 1500 tiles over the tank front half to have a similar profile to the Fluval light. This one is 400 PAR at 24" depth. I'm not sure if that's good or not, couldn't find the numbers for the 600 strip or the 1500 tiles. I know, my fish might be blind by the time I'm done, or at least learn not to look "up".
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Post by Carl on Dec 5, 2015 21:11:20 GMT -5
I guess I could machine some ends that would hold rails for a couple 1500 tiles over the tank front half to have a similar profile to the Fluval light. This one is 400 PAR at 24" depth. I'm not sure if that's good or not, couldn't find the numbers for the 600 strip or the 1500 tiles. I know, my fish might be blind by the time I'm done, or at least learn not to look "up". If you are thinking of the GroBeam, you can also use the 600 strips or also the Mini 400 tiles. The strips can use their wire rim mounting too Since you already have a Fluval Strip, I really do not think you are in need of the large 1500 GroBeam tiles for this size aquarium, just the strips or Minis. Really One more strip is all you need IMO. The spec are found here: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/LEDLights.htmlI do not believe the Fluval is 400 PAR, this would be impossible with the amount input wattage of energy, 120 degree emitters, and the way Fluval daisy chains emitters together. Also consider there is more to the light energy produced than PAR, there is also the PUR or "quality of light". The Fluval uses a mix of emitters, instead of a pure natural daylight emitter. This mix includes too much blue which can produce more algae growth. Here area few articles: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2012/03/pur-vs-par-in-aquarium-lighting.htmlaquarium-digest.com/2011/12/19/tmc-grobeam-1000-customer-review/aquarium-digest.com/2010/06/30/led-light-review-tmc-xg-1500-maxspect-more/Also: aquariumopinions.com/2014/04/30/economy-planted-aquarium-led-fluval-aqualife-tmc-aquabar/aquariumopinions.com/2015/12/06/why-aquaray-led-light-fixtures-review/Carl
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Post by troybtj on Dec 6, 2015 14:34:02 GMT -5
How much spill lighting to the 600 strips give? The distance above aquarium is the part where it looks like I'd need to build a hood so the aquarium stands out rather than the lighting.
The Fluval light I didn't really put much into, they tossed it in relatively cheap with the other stuff. So I might be keeping it as a spare if I switch to a hood or other system for better plant growth in the next months (once I decide how it's going to be set up as far as plants and decoration).
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Post by Carl on Dec 6, 2015 16:10:01 GMT -5
Both are 120 degree lights (Fluval & GroBeam), so neither should be too far from the water you are trying to illuminate. The 600 strips can be placed just directly above the aquarium on the glass top or mounted in a hood. If in a hood/canopy, I would suggest 8 inches from the water or less. The AquaRay Mounting Page shows one innovative way to place the strips on the aquarium, while keeping the light directly of the galls/acrylic lid which could cause condensation issue Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/LEDTMCMounting.htmlCarl
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Post by troybtj on Dec 12, 2015 13:20:46 GMT -5
Quick Update: Tank is cycling well with ammonia boost to existing media to a higher bio load. Adding additional ammonia is processed in a day (1 oz-ish). So that experiment was a success.
The downside is my Nitrates are over 100, I'm leaving it there for now, going to add plants while I decide what fish to toss in, but I have to decide on plants first, thinking of a white sand "river" in the middle, and a rocky area off to the left for babies to hide in...
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Post by Carl on Dec 14, 2015 10:13:52 GMT -5
Sometimes all that is needed for high nitrates after cycling is a water change. Further Reading: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2007/07/aquarium-nitrates.htmlFrom this article: "Water changes; often a simple but effective way to at least temporarily lower nitrates. Since nitrates often jump considerably after establishing a new aquarium nitrogen cycle or re-establishing the cycle after a problem, a water change is the simple answer, and often no other major nitrate reducing steps needs to be taken."Carl
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Post by troybtj on Dec 31, 2015 12:50:21 GMT -5
Oh yeah. Pitcher. Identification of Plant in right side would be cool, these were all in one pot growing in the 10 gallon, in addition to that column of water sprite. Ignore the random placement of plants and non-leveled substrate. I planted them blind after adding the 3rd bag of Flourite. Somebody gave me a Glo-Light strip for Christmas, so I snapped it on the front for a bit, but there's too much blue and it keeps falling off, that's the reflection in the picture. Most all the lighting is from the 1 Fluval strip. The size of driftwood I'm looking for will hide (well, obscure) the filter intakes and the heater, and be held up by a branch landing somewhere under the middle of the spray bar, and going about 3/4 of the way vertically in the tank. Speaking of heater, I have no clue what the white fungus looking stuff is on the black parts, that's the only place it is found in the entire tank. Ideas? (click to enlarge)
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jan 1, 2016 13:36:16 GMT -5
Oh yeah. Pitcher. Identification of Plant in right side would be cool, these were all in one pot growing in the 10 gallon, in addition to that column of water sprite. Ignore the random placement of plants and non-leveled substrate. I planted them blind after adding the 3rd bag of Flourite. Somebody gave me a Glo-Light strip for Christmas, so I snapped it on the front for a bit, but there's too much blue and it keeps falling off, that's the reflection in the picture. Most all the lighting is from the 1 Fluval strip. The size of driftwood I'm looking for will hide (well, obscure) the filter intakes and the heater, and be held up by a branch landing somewhere under the middle of the spray bar, and going about 3/4 of the way vertically in the tank. Speaking of heater, I have no clue what the white fungus looking stuff is on the black parts, that's the only place it is found in the entire tank. Ideas? (click to enlarge) Clean set-up. Nice and fresh. I'm not the best with plant ID....Isn't it a crypt of some short? Driftwood will hide and tie everything together nicely. I'm not sure about the white on the heater? It looks like a fungus? I'd dip it in a oxidizer... Carl might know when he gets back. thanks for sharing!
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Post by troybtj on Jan 5, 2016 13:13:54 GMT -5
Are the 600 strips submersible? i.e. could I put them at a 45 degree angle at the top front inside of the tank?
Second question of higher priority: LFS gave up on finding driftwood I'm looking for. I'm looking for a piece about 18" x 2"-3" diameter, hopefully with a "branch" that extends down 12"-13" at one end. Otherwise, 1 18" x 2"-3" diameter piece, and 2 12"-13" x 1"-2" diameter pieces which I can epoxy together.
Does anybody know of a reliable source for cured driftwood where one can see the actual piece and dimensions prior to ordering?
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