anti
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Post by anti on Feb 22, 2015 13:40:33 GMT -5
no worries Carl the sale is yours. As much solid information and guidance you have offer; it is the least I could do. As soon as I can draw everything up I'll send it
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anti
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Posts: 139
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Post by anti on Feb 22, 2015 23:29:44 GMT -5
link
Carl, If you can see the pic I think that its self explanatory. I want the TMC pump to go in baffle 1 and have the water return there also so it can be filtered through the purigen and a 50 micron filter. This design is my only option due to the constricted space both in the sump and the cabinet itself. both baffles measure 4x12 and I think that I am loosing 3 ft. head pressure with this design especially with the hard 90's. As far as equipment: TMC 600, 3/4x1/2 barb, 5/8 hose and a toss up between the SunSun 066 and the rio 1100. I know from your earlier threads that the SunSun cant have a prefilter without heavy modification, but I want to make sure that the pump can handle the heavy sand later in use. I hate to buy another one cause of that fact. The sump has a 100 micron filter in front and a 50 micron filter in back so the media stays pretty clean and don't know if I need a prefilter anyway. Thank you in advance for your thoughts or suggestions
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Feb 23, 2015 9:59:47 GMT -5
The concerns I have is just making sure that water to the sterilizer and sand filter are pre-filtered. It's sounding like it is with the micron filters. I would watch the performance of both pieces of equipment to make sure no mulm is building up in them.
I would also recommend the return of the sand filter, not be by the intake pump.
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Post by Carl on Feb 23, 2015 10:40:29 GMT -5
I would concur with Devon as to moving the return from the FSB filter to the other side of the sump, as even with the baffles, there is otherwise going to be a lot of re-filtration of water that just through the filter.
I assume the UV water will directly go back to the aquarium.
What pumps are you looking to get and what is the distance to the top of the aquarium above this sump?
Carl
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anti
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Post by anti on Feb 23, 2015 21:22:20 GMT -5
as you can see this is my delima. seems like the only place to put the FSB is next to the intake side. I have less than 4 inches on the resovior side and don't think the FSB would fit there. So I want to put the FSB pump in baffle 1(hidden behind the 2x4) and have it return either to baffle 1 directly so it will eventually go to baffle 2 or just have it go to baffle 2 which will have filter media and purigen. I have limited room in the reservoir for another pump and don't think its possible. A RIO 1100 with filtermax would fit perfectly in baffle 1. If that doesn't work I have two options. 1st place the FSB pump in with the media (which would be maintaince nightmare) in the first bin or 2 build a whole new sump to accomidate what I want to do. I am really trying to avoid those two options if possible. Carl to answer your question: the top of the main tank from the bottom of the sump is approx. 4 feet; otherwise the sump is 18 inches high
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Feb 24, 2015 10:09:56 GMT -5
I'm thinking the outtake for the sand filter would have to push or return water over to the left side of the sump. Could the pump Rio 1100 with FX still sit in baffle 1 and return to the left side?
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anti
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Post by anti on Feb 24, 2015 10:22:42 GMT -5
not quite sure what you mean about left side. if the pump was in bacfle one i could delever water anywhere i want. i just cant put the fsb anywhere i want. hope this helps
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Post by Carl on Feb 24, 2015 10:49:57 GMT -5
Looking at your photo and drawing, I believe you can easily fit the FSB filter where suggested to the right (where the siphon is being stored currently). The pump should fit next to the baffles. I do not see why the return can not come all the way across the sump and then be gently added DIRECTLY next to a pump returning water back to the display aquarium Also, since there would be low Head Pressure with water being returned near one of the other pumps, the Rio 1000 should be adequate along with a Filter Max #2 Resources: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/RioPlusPumps.html#1000www.americanaquariumproducts.com/PreFilter.html#fm2Carl
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anti
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Post by anti on Feb 24, 2015 11:31:36 GMT -5
ok thks carl. thats what i was orginally thinking withe the rio 1000. i was concerned that i was going to loose too much head pressure but if u think thats all i need then ill go it. ill probably make purchase by weeks end. my home computer crashed last night. thks again for both of ya'll help!!
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anti
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Posts: 139
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Post by anti on Mar 9, 2015 22:14:27 GMT -5
thanks for the accurate and quick delivery as usual Carl. I have everything setup; now all I have to do is wait for results. Thanks again for you and Devonjohngard's help
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anti
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Post by anti on Mar 10, 2015 10:55:04 GMT -5
yeah Devon I just dont know how much agitation I need for the bio pellets. it seems like there is a fair amount on the bottom where it meets the sand but very little movement at the top. I gotta figure out a good balance. I dont want to keep fooling with it but I dont know how long to wait for results except the 2 to 4 weeks. You would think with an established aquarium it would come sooner than that
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Mar 11, 2015 16:24:40 GMT -5
yeah Devon I just dont know how much agitation I need for the bio pellets. it seems like there is a fair amount on the bottom where it meets the sand but very little movement at the top. I gotta figure out a good balance. I dont want to keep fooling with it but I dont know how long to wait for results except the 2 to 4 weeks. You would think with an established aquarium it would come sooner than that Once there is a large bio-load in the reactor, the sand will start to float and look much different than right now. It's the difference between turning over and fluidizing.
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anti
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Post by anti on Mar 11, 2015 21:00:09 GMT -5
hum ok. I think I know what you mean but I guess I'm gonna have to wait. so let me ask this.......lets just say that I dont have enough of a bacteria to occupy the sand. Meaning that all the biomedia that is already present before the FR is more than enough to handle my current bio load and therefore the sand does not hold bacteria. I'm only talking 6 discus and 2 rams at this point, plus food and poop in 90 gallons tops. Is this a stupid question? This was just something I was thinking of today
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Mar 12, 2015 7:47:47 GMT -5
hum ok. I think I know what you mean but I guess I'm gonna have to wait. so let me ask this.......lets just say that I dont have enough of a bacteria to occupy the sand. Meaning that all the biomedia that is already present before the FR is more than enough to handle my current bio load and therefore the sand does not hold bacteria. I'm only talking 6 discus and 2 rams at this point, plus food and poop in 90 gallons tops. Is this a stupid question? This was just something I was thinking of today If I understand the question, the FSB would be a secondary form of filtration. It will also work for Nitrates if it's a tall enough reactor or using NPX.
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anti
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Posts: 139
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Post by anti on Mar 12, 2015 10:14:31 GMT -5
I think I found my answer last night. I think that the NPX works solely off of nitrates and phosphates as a food source; not so much dependent off of the bacteria that produces nitrates. I was just wondering if the sand in the FB need to be established for the npx to even work
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Post by Carl on Mar 12, 2015 16:47:55 GMT -5
I think I found my answer last night. I think that the NPX works solely off of nitrates and phosphates as a food source; not so much dependent off of the bacteria that produces nitrates. I was just wondering if the sand in the FB need to be established for the npx to even work The FSB Filter sand does not need to be established for the NPX to work Carl
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Post by angelminx on Mar 14, 2015 23:00:28 GMT -5
Do power outages "mess" with FSBs (i.e. re-fluidizing--if that's a word)? I haven't paid much attention to info on FSBs because that is something that is way off in the future for me. This is just a question that came to me while reading the DIY board.
Angelminx
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Post by Carl on Mar 15, 2015 16:11:32 GMT -5
Do power outages "mess" with FSBs (i.e. re-fluidizing--if that's a word)? I haven't paid much attention to info on FSBs because that is something that is way off in the future for me. This is just a question that came to me while reading the DIY board. Angelminx This is a good question and as with any filter or pump, power outages can cause issues. While not as many issues as a poorly planned wet/dry (which can flood the home/office), the biggest problem is water backing into the intake tube, which then will not easily allow for a re-start when power resumes A good one way check valve can prevent this in every instance I have observed a power failure (which were actually quite often in Los Angeles where my aquarium maintenance business was and still is located) Carl
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Post by angelminx on Mar 18, 2015 23:12:32 GMT -5
A quick question about FSBs (and NPX): in his article Carl mentions using oolitic sand (for African cichlids, etc.), does the FSB not come with sand, or is this just as a replacement sand for that situation, and when using NPX in the filter, do you adjust the amount of sand being used ?
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Mar 19, 2015 9:00:57 GMT -5
A quick question about FSBs (and NPX): in his article Carl mentions using oolitic sand (for African cichlids, etc.), does the FSB not come with sand, or is this just as a replacement sand for that situation, and when using NPX in the filter, do you adjust the amount of sand being used ? It comes with silica sand. If using with NPX, you don't really adjust the amount of sand. The Oolitic sand is a great option for all the reasons Carl mentions on the site.
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