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Post by mydorazio on Jan 10, 2015 18:53:37 GMT -5
The bottom plate of our 300 gallon custom tank was cracked during shipping. I didn't pay the $90 for insurance, which was really stupid of me. This was a big investment for us, and as you probably know, no-one seems to be in the business of fixing these. I read Carl's article on repairs at www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2007/03/aquarium-silicone.html and understand we'll nead to buy "float glass" for this. Does anyone know where to buy it? Or do you know if "Annealed Glass" is the same thing as "float glass". (At www.glazette.com/Glass-Knowledge-Bank-79/Annealed-Glass.html we read the sentence "Annealed glass is also known as a standard sheet of float glass" but that's the only place on the web that says that so I don't really trust it.) So does anyone know where to buy sheets of "float glass"? I've searched the forum and found nothing so far. If it's the same as annealed glass then I can get that at onedayglass.com. I fear that it is not the same because the thicknesses there are listed as 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" instead of the 5mm to 12mm Carl documented at www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2007/03/aquarium-silicone.html. Pictures are attached. Attachments:
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Post by Carl on Jan 11, 2015 12:46:57 GMT -5
Sorry to read of this damage, I know shipping aquariums can be risky as there are simply too many persons IMO with little respect for others property to properly ship something like an aquarium proeperly (which is why I got out this aspect of business).
The SAE versus metric should not make a difference, in fact when I first got in the business in the 1970s all the glass was SAE. The metric glass only came about due to Chinese glass imports that started to flood the market in the 1990s.
As for "Annealed Glass", while I have heard of the term, I am not familiar with whether this is the same or not (I will do some more research this week). This said, regardless of whether one in the same, float glass should not be difficult to find as most glass shops usually have this (at least when I last checked).
Another suggestion is to make sure the hole you have drilled for a bulk head should be pre-drilled prior to adding the replacement glass, otherwise you would risk another expensive and time consuming break. Most professional glass suppliers should have the equipment to perform this
Carl
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Post by Carl on Jan 11, 2015 14:57:33 GMT -5
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Post by mydorazio on Jan 11, 2015 15:37:48 GMT -5
Thank you so much for the help. I had a quick question about what you wrote in the "For MAJOR cracks" section of Aquarium Silicone, Tank Repair, Applications, DIY, How To Use "For larger aquariums with single cracks I recommend adding a plate of glass to the inside of the crack repair in step #2. This plate need only cover the crack plus an inch or two, not the full bottom or side (although that would certainly be better yet). I generally do not recommend this repair for tanks over 100 gallons, although I have cut glass panels to fit over the entire bottom without replacing the old cracked panel for larger aquariums or multi cracked smaller aquariums. Otherwise I STRONGLY recommend replacing the glass panel." So do you mean for tanks larger than 100 gallons you recommend either covering the entire bottom plate or removing the broken section and replacing it with a new section? I ask because with the custom shaped corner tank, we fear it will be very difficult to measure and order the glass exactly to fit the entire bottom. (The glass vendor says "the industry-wide accepted tolerance on 3/8″ and 1/2″, +/- 1/8″.) And we also feel very unqualified to do the other option and remove and replace only the cracked panel, although we did manage with a variety of box cutters, butter knives, and tree saws to remove the overflow boxes that prevented us from getting to the cracked area near the one hole for the bulk head.
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Post by Carl on Jan 11, 2015 19:15:07 GMT -5
It is unfortunately for tanks/aquariums over 100 gallons that I recommend total replacement of the bottom. This if course is a generalization, and you definitely have a unique situation since tanks like this one generally are made from templates rather than hard dimensions (at least from my experience). So getting a good fit may be difficult.
The good news is I think this may be repairable with a glass over lay, however the problem still lies with a good fit. You would want to preferably one piece to overlay, not a quilt work of glass patches. As well this piece should be 100% from each end of the crack with silicone removed at these edges before inserting this glass Frankly, this would most easily be accomplished by covering the holes in the vicinity of the cracks so as to have one solid piece.
Carl
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Post by mydorazio on Jan 11, 2015 20:57:41 GMT -5
OK. I think I understand. I see now that I can't buy the glass at onedayglass.com because they can only do 24" maximum in any dimension for 1/2" annealed glass and that would force me to do a quilt work of glass patches that you suggest I avoid (like in the first picture below). I should find a local glass shop that can do a custom panel of glass that covers the crack and the holes and fits as snugly as it can to the existing bottom plate like the second picture below. This will be laid on top of the broken bottom plate. I'll make sure that it extends inches past the crack and the holes that will be covered over with the new glass. I'll copy pictures here as we work on it. I hope I am understanding your suggestions correctly. Thank you again for taking the time with this thread and all the details in your blogs. It has been a very difficult few months trying to understand our options so running across your work has been very hopeful. Attachments:
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Post by Carl on Jan 12, 2015 9:46:12 GMT -5
Correct
Yes
Carl
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Post by Ameenah on Jan 14, 2015 20:30:29 GMT -5
I feel your pain, and look forward to your success
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Post by Ameenah on Jan 14, 2015 20:31:24 GMT -5
I feel your pain, and look forward to your success
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2015 9:51:21 GMT -5
Greetings "mydorazio",
What a beautiful baby picture (for your forum image)!!! I see you already got excellent advice on this. I am fortunate to have shops in my home town that would make a house call to fix a broken aquarium (they have all sorts of glass available). I think there are still three shops.
Post back how it all works out for you.
Judy
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Post by mydorazio on Feb 27, 2015 0:05:46 GMT -5
The glass we ordered came in, and in a few days I should have pictures to post soon and a report whether it worked or not. I have a quick question. Is it possible to lay this large piece of glass down flush against the existing bottom panels without getting air bubbles in the silicone? Here's the size of our glass panel, which is roughly 40" by 40" by 1/2" square with sections cut away. We've already practiced with a piece of cardboard the same size and it fits in well but we can't figure out how we will put the silicone sealant so that there won't be a bunch of little air bubbles between the new glass and the existing glass bottom. I figured we'd use a spatula or large taping/putty knife to spread it evenly on the bottom (not on the glass) and then lower it from the diagonal cut down, pressing as we go. But when we've done that before it seems unavoidable you'll get air bubbles. Please feel free to tell me I'm just making a big deal over nothing. I'm just so concerned that I do it right.
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Post by sdboers on Feb 27, 2015 8:57:42 GMT -5
I've never done a repair of this magnitude, but I would assume you are doomed to get at least some bubbles? I'm not trying to be rude - just asking a question. Does it matter if there are some bubbles? Since it is the bottom of the tank, will it be visible? Are you running it bare or with substrate?
If you aren't concerned about aesthetics, I honestly wouldn't worry about a few bubbles. Just make sure the edges are well caulked.
Sean.
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Post by Carl on Feb 27, 2015 10:06:32 GMT -5
You are going to get SOME bubbles, but being on the bottom, this should not be an issue with aesthetics. I would not use a spatula. What is important is to place a standard bead of silicone along the crack, then carefully add a bead around the entire perimeter of the new glass (on the bottom). In between these beads of silicone does not need to have every square centimeter covered with silicone Once this new glass is pressed into place, there should be few bubbles, but what is more important is to make sure to smooth all silicone that oozes out the sides, especially in the front viewing areas. Often a second bead of silicone is best added the the outside edges and then smoothed with your index finger. Further Information www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2007/03/aquarium-silicone.htmlCarl
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Post by mydorazio on Mar 5, 2015 21:44:25 GMT -5
Thanks. We were under the impression we would have to coat the entire underside of the entire piece of new glass with silicone. Thank you for the great advice. We'll only do a bead over the crack and around the perimeter. This weekend is the big day. We picked up the glass today: $325
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Post by sdboers on Mar 6, 2015 11:46:07 GMT -5
Don't drop it!!!
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Post by mydorazio on Mar 15, 2015 22:53:15 GMT -5
Easier said than done. The custom cut glass weighs 60 lbs and we did almost drop it. It was hard to work with because we had already spread a 1/4 inch bead of silicone around the perimeter of the underside, and so we had to work it nearly entirely using 4 suction cups from the top of the glass. One of the cups never worked, and a 2nd fell off as my wife and I balanced it on its edge on the very top of the aquarium frame while each standing on our own step ladder. For five minutes we stopped to catch our breath and relax our completely worn out muscles while trying to figure out how to lower it into place without crashing it through the bottom. I said, the heck with trying to keep the silicone bead perfect, and just grabbed it firmly at opposite edges and, with my wife providing lift as best she could with the 2 remaining suction cups, eased it down into place on the bottom at a speed that to me seemed like it would certainly break the bottom, but thankfully did not. We were very excited to see that the silicone oozed out past the edges as Carl said it should. Inspecting it all the way around it looked like a good seal. After adding more silicone in a couple of places around the edge, and waiting a week, we filled it 1/3 of the way yesterday. No leaks. Took it to 2/3 full today, still no leaks. Tomorrow's the big day to fill it to its 300 gal max. Crossing our fingers.
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Post by angelminx on Mar 15, 2015 23:36:51 GMT -5
I am, too. Good Luck!
Angelminx
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Post by sdboers on Mar 16, 2015 5:53:42 GMT -5
Sounds very promising. Good luck - hope you have it up and running again shortly! Sean.
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Mar 16, 2015 8:22:59 GMT -5
Glad no one got hurt... Big project.
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Post by Carl on Mar 16, 2015 9:26:26 GMT -5
Glad to read you got it in place with no breakage or injury to you or your wife Carl
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