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Post by Carl on Jul 22, 2014 12:01:02 GMT -5
Your aquarium appears to be a bit more yellow than I would not maintain, but this does not mean there is a problem. I also advice a small amount of more coarse gravel/pebbles on top of the sand as per my Planted Aquarium article. Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumPlants.htmlI cannot tell from the pictures what your filter system is, can you update us here as to how your tank is set up? The main purpose of a pre-filter when used with a FSB filter is to trap large debris that will not only clog and lower the performance of your FSB Filter, but also clog and lower performance of your water pump running the FSB Filter. It is not a question of the FSB Filter handling the bio load, as these filters are superior to ANYTHING, including canister filters, it is simply that they need the organic matter more as DOC (dissolved organic compounds) and not as organic mulm/debris. This is UNLIKE a UV Sterilizer whereby even DOC in the water column will lower effectiveness As for the UV, it is not a required piece of equipment, however it does help with disease prevention and improves Redox balance via changing the electromagnetism of the water. I would match the maximum head pressure that we publish for every pump to determine whether or not the Rio 1000 or another would work For instance the Maximum head pressure of the Rio 1000 is 4.6 feet, so roughly at 2.3 feet, your flow will be nearly half References (please read): www.americanaquariumproducts.com/RioPlusPumps.htmlwww.americanaquariumproducts.com/PumpSpecifications.htmlwww.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2011/09/head-pressure-in-aquarium-and-pond.htmlOnce you get the Wonder Shells, your recommendations are correct, although they might disolve at a faster rate when first used, I would still stick with the schedule Carl
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Post by Ameenah on Jul 22, 2014 23:21:20 GMT -5
Wow it sounds like you should be sharing this Everything Aquatic Pro Board with your dad, setting up an account for him too. Does he have a computer or a tablet?
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Post by jakester42 on Jul 23, 2014 1:46:16 GMT -5
Carl, the tank I took a picture of is my 46 gallon which i will be putting the system I buy from you guys on. It currently has a high flow rate HOB until then. Also the dirt is capped with peace river gravel and not sand which I am assuming is the perfect sized gravel being how small it is and smooth for the corys other than sand of course. (<-- see what i did there lol) I am thinking I will put the pump about 3/4 up the inside to not attract any larger mulm if it can help it, with the filter max just below it. I will also use the mulm vac you sell for exactly that instead of water changes or will that not have the suction I need, or is there something else I need a water change for? Also I will purchase the UV Sterilizer when I have the funds but like I said I am a college kid lol.
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Post by jakester42 on Jul 23, 2014 1:49:56 GMT -5
I may move that filter to the 20 gallon, or two ex 20s on the 20 gallon, what do you think? and my dad isnt much of a forum guy or internet guy lol. If he has questions he will be asking me most likely and if I dont know I will be asking you guys haha.
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jul 23, 2014 9:15:12 GMT -5
A few thoughts...I would try to get Nitrates lower if possible. Not the end of the world though, but planted tanks like like 15ppm. Helps with algae too,
What are you thinking the Duck Weed will do?
UV Sterilizer is an assurance and leads to long-term health. It's not something you need right now, but if you are getting serious, I would recommend one. There are even economical models, that are not that spendy. I would recommend the SunSun line.
The wonder shell schedule is about right. Once the GH rises, it might even be longer before they need to be replaced.
Yup, if the flow in the FSB is slowing down, clean your pre-filter.
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jul 23, 2014 9:18:30 GMT -5
Carl, the tank I took a picture of is my 46 gallon which i will be putting the system I buy from you guys on. It currently has a high flow rate HOB until then. Also the dirt is capped with peace river gravel and not sand which I am assuming is the perfect sized gravel being how small it is and smooth for the corys other than sand of course. (<-- see what i did there lol) I am thinking I will put the pump about 3/4 up the inside to not attract any larger mulm if it can help it, with the filter max just below it. I will also use the mulm vac you sell for exactly that instead of water changes or will that not have the suction I need, or is there something else I need a water change for? Also I will purchase the UV Sterilizer when I have the funds but like I said I am a college kid lol. That sounds fine about the pump placement. The vacuum will pick up all mulm, it just is a learning process on how to use it. This is what you would use for a water change.
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Post by jakester42 on Jul 23, 2014 11:47:22 GMT -5
Alright if Nitrates get to 20 I will have him use the vacuum instead of doing a water change and then if they dont slow down ill have him do a 25% water change. Good? The duckweed is to lower the amount of light in the tank because I think I have high light in the 20 (the purple cabomba is turning purple and the other plants growth has slowed) but I don't dose CO2 so that can lead to plant stunting and algae blooms. It also is a nitrate sponge!
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Post by devonjohnsgard on Jul 23, 2014 16:16:51 GMT -5
Alright if Nitrates get to 20 I will have him use the vacuum instead of doing a water change and then if they dont slow down ill have him do a 25% water change. Good? The duckweed is to lower the amount of light in the tank because I think I have high light in the 20 (the purple cabomba is turning purple and the other plants growth has slowed) but I don't dose CO2 so that can lead to plant stunting and algae blooms. It also is a nitrate sponge! Vacuuming is a great idea. The duck weed is another. You could cut the time the light is on. Mine is a high light LED (high PUR) and I run it for 6 hours a day. After when I get home from work. I think it's better too, cause the fish don't need to be in the bright light all day. It wouldn't help the nitrates, but it would solve the other issues.
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Post by Carl on Jul 23, 2014 18:25:05 GMT -5
Nitrates of 20 ppm or even 30 ppm are still not bad. Here is a snip for "Aquarium Nitrates" "Nitrate level of around 15 ppm is usually best for planted freshwater aquariums as noted earlier). The higher the nitrate concentration the more stress for the fish. More severe stress is reached at levels exceeding 100 ppm. Many plants will fail before reaching this level."Reference: www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2007/07/aquarium-nitrates.htmlThe main thing to watch for is trends; If your nitrates continue to climb, along with dropping KH and pH, this may indicate an over abundance of organic mulm and DOC. However if your nitrates stay steady at 20 ppm, I would not be overly concerned Carl
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Post by jakester42 on Jul 23, 2014 22:48:26 GMT -5
alright sounds good I'll be making a purchase in the very near future.
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Post by angelminx on Jul 27, 2014 19:37:30 GMT -5
Hi! I'm angelminx. I've been using live plants for a while, now, but before I moved (although I have't seen them for quite a while--at least not since the last LFS anywhere near me closed) I used to have marble hatchet fish, and I took a couple of the Tetra Second Nature plastic Water Sprite plants apart and floated the leaves on the surface. The hatchets seemed to appreciate it (and they didn't "blow around" and bunch up in one spot like my live water sprite does), and I had the them for a couple of years. BTW, something else I haven't seen since the LFS closed, is Blue Ribbon's fish food (I can't remember the name) that was a combination of flakes, pellets, and freeze dried worms (if I remember correctly it was bloodworms, but there might have been tubifex in there too). The hatchets LOVED it. they always went for the pellets 1st, and then sometimes the worms, and the other fish enjoyed the rest. That wasn't the only food I fed them, but they did get it once a day.
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