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Post by Carl on Jan 28, 2014 21:22:11 GMT -5
We have made a major update of one of the more important articles for maintaining a long term healthy aquarium. Major changes to the layout were made, as well as updates to information and resources. Definitely a must read for all aquarium fish keepers Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Oct 4, 2014 12:19:59 GMT -5
We have updated our "Aquarium Disease Prevention" article once more. Here is a snip from the "Too Much Care" Section #7: "As an example; one of my largest aquarium maintenance clients that had many large aquariums in their executive offices also had about a dozen fish bowls with Bettas of about 2-5 gallons on the desks of many personnel. The desks where the employee simply fed the fish and then allowed for our weekly to bi-weekly maintenance to do the rest, had almost NO ISSUES. HOWEVER, those that constantly "played and messed around" with their Bettas were the ones that had most of the problems!!!"Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.html#overcareCarl
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Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2014 12:29:58 GMT -5
Thanks Carl, This one made me smile.... Last night I "Googled" rapid respiration freshwater fish (*note below). I found a forum that had a member who had treated her fish with a long list of medications and couldn't understand why they were up at the surface with rapid respiration. My jaw just dropped. She poisoned her fish. I don't recall the date of that one, but it could have been around the time I had a tank upset. The local water supply was "poison" to my fish (herbicide run-off that was toxic to fish). That was a long hot summer - little rain/not much wind/algae building up in the reservoirs - BUT the week I did my water changes was after a heavy rain....I got the spread sheet that showed every thing they were adding to the water, but couldn't open the file. The guy just told me the water was "off he charts" that week and they were adding all sorts of stuff to it to make it safer for humans. The good new is, it was EVERYTHING I read on YOUR site that helped me save my fish (well as many fish as I could save) - so I do owe you. I worry as more and more home Aquarists begin dumping more and more medications into their tanks -- then pour the water down the drain. More and more medications are seeping into our water supply and making it harder for municipalities to remove them. With many of the medications/treatments there is a fine line between killing off the parasite or bacteria - and poisoning the fish. I won't even buy a fish if I know the tank at the store was treated with Malachite Green - whether or not that fish got Ich in the first place. I have bought two fish BEFORE the store treated their tanks and my fish are still alive....pretty sure the rest aren't alive now. Summer of 2011, I did an "experiment".... I watched a fish during the store's treatment of Malachite Green.... that fish never got Ich. The fish did not get Ich in my aquarium - but started to show signs of something else....no idea what. Fortunately, the fish was still in its "14 day guarantee". I got store credit. Whatever was wrong with that fish - the rest of my fish did not get sick. Now I know this "experiment" was not scientific - but was enough to show me what I am doing is right for my fish. Carl, this one is for you... I bought a product that was supposed to help boost immunity (won't mention it here as you don't carry any of the products)....I tried it in my 20 gallon and started to see some disastrous results.....It reacted with something I use all the time (OR it reacted with something that the municipality was adding at the time) .... When I wrote to that company and told him what I was using from Microbe-Lift (Artemiss and Herbtana) - He called it "Chemical Soup". I sent his product back to the online retailer and got my money back. ....and will never give up Artemiss and Herbtana. *Note: Pretty sure my little Pygmy rainbows are fine.... I just did several water 25% water changes (like every other day) to insure all General Cure was gone from the water (I had a fish that needed that medication and couldn't put in my hospital tank for it as other fish are being treated there for bacteria). I am following up with Artemiss and Herbtana.... Yellow rainbowfish is doing well and I am sure my Pygmy rainbows will be fine, too. No, there was not an ammonia spike at any time.
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Post by Carl on Oct 5, 2014 15:05:04 GMT -5
Thank you for your feed back I will note that there is a copious amount of misinfomation about Malachite Green, as I noted on another thread yesterday. Formulations different, but more importantly this chemical dye is much more toxic when calcium ions are low, carbonates are low and pH are low I strong urge reading my write up about Malachite Green in Aquarium Medications Part 3 Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumMedication3.html#malachite_greenAs aside note, for scientifically based inquiries, DuckDuckGo is a vastly superior search engine to Google as I noted ina a private email link I provided. Just try aquarium information in Google and then DuckDuckGo. The first result in Google is a website that is extremely anecdotal that bans members who reference science based information Carl
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Post by Carl on Nov 16, 2014 19:02:12 GMT -5
I have once more updated the "Aquarium Disease Prevention" article Here is a snip: "True Level One UV sterilizers prevent many bacterial, fungal, and protozoa diseases. In addition they help with oxidation properties (Redox Potential) of the water and in so doing, water clarity AND fish immunity. This "tool" is not essential, HOWEVER UV Sterilization is one more piece of the disease prevention puzzle and one of the more important pieces at that. MORE IMPORTANTLY; in the controlled tests I performed that are a good part of the basis of this article, while the aquariums without UV Sterilization but otherwise well maintained as per other points of this article certainly did well, the ones that also had level one UV Sterilization had less disease incidence and longer fish longevity!"Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Feb 11, 2015 11:28:04 GMT -5
I have updated this article once again (one of my more important and researched articles) Here is a snip from the overview that emphasizes how many of the conclusions are arrived at (such as feeding, Redox, UV Sterilization, mineralization, myths, etc.) Here is the progression of how much of what I recommended came into full fruition:
*Noting that certain aquariums, in particular those with UV Sterilizers and with mineral blocks (Wonder Shells), mostly during the 1980s had a lower incidence of disease, more vitality, and longevity.
*Increasing use of certain methods to more tanks, later 1980s
*Controlled Tests, 1980s to 1990s
*Research and further tests to explain the results of these tests, 1990s to 2000s. This is how the Redox article came into being and proof of the importance of mineral Cations and use of UVC irradiationReference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Jun 19, 2015 9:03:35 GMT -5
I have further updated the "A Healthy Aquarium, Disease Prevention" article. This includes the section dealing with old age, genetically weak fish, etc. Here is a snip: "This is a subject I have made many observations over the years in fish "doctor" calls, etc. As an example, if you have a fish that was exposed to very high ammonia levels that permanently damaged the gills and kidneys, this fish will be predisposed to be more easily sick and more difficult to treat if even possible with certain infections. Ditto genetically weak or old fish.
An analogy would be expecting a miracle cure for a 70 year old person that has smoked a carton of cigarettes every day since 16 and who has had both parents die before 70 to respond the same way a 30 year old who never smoked, and still has grandparents alive in their 80s. Ditto can be said about a Betta (as an example) that is 4 years old (average is 3), from an inbred gene pool purchased from Walmart, that was exposed to high ammonia levels for an extended time before being acquired by its owner, to respond well to ANY treatment."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.html#old_ageCarl
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Post by Carl on Feb 7, 2016 11:52:23 GMT -5
I have updated the "Aquarium Disease Prevention" article. Here is a quote from the section about quarantine tanks: "For a quarantine tank I recommend as large and aquarium as space allows for this, generally at least a 10 gallon (although this is not always possible and even a sterile 5 gallon bucket or Rubbermaid type container can work if need be). Having this tank running constantly OR at least adding aged filter media is very important so as to not have ammonia spikes that will defeat the purpose of quarantine.
I recommend a bare tank with a seasoned high capacity Sponge Filter such as the AAP Hydro Sponge Filter. Running this sponge filter with an air pump is recommended over a power head water pump as the air pump method will provide a more gentle current that is generally less stressful to new fish. After use of any treatment a bag of activated carbon can be placed under the base of the Sponge Filter for help in removal of medication."Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.htmlCarl
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Post by Carl on Feb 27, 2016 16:21:41 GMT -5
I have once again updated this "Aquarium Disease Prevention" article. Here is a quote from the section dealing with advanced acclimation: "The usual problems for fish that have spent more than 4 hours in shipping is ammonia/nitrite toxicity and CO2 buildup which results in much lower pH than the water originally shipped in. Once the shipping bag is opened there will be “gassing out” of CO2 resulting in rapid increases in pH which can stress or even kill fish that are already stressed very quickly.
To address this, the shipping bag should only be opened just enough to allow a drip tube so as to slowly drip water from the display (or whatever aquarium will be receiving the new fish) at a rate of a drop every few seconds. Adding a small amount of SeaChem/AAP Prime to this process can also help with any ammonium to ammonia conversion that may arise from the CO2 gassing out. Be wary though of using products that might help in one way but hurt in another. A good example is the use of "The Poly Pad" or SeaChem Purigen. While I am not necessarily advocating against these products under normal aquarium circumstances, these are oxidizers and using these for ammonia removal during a time of stress is the last thing you want to do, since you would want a more reducing Redox during this acclimation period (a Wonder Shell fragment or similar reducing agent if anything would be a better idea during this time). "Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.html#quarantineCarl
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Post by Carl on May 30, 2016 12:31:42 GMT -5
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Post by Carl on Oct 3, 2016 15:14:53 GMT -5
I have once again updated the "Aquarium Disease Prevention" article Here is an excerpt from the advanced acclimation section: "After a few hours, I will add the fish to the quarantine tank if available, otherwise the main holding tank/aquarium. If a quarantine tank is used, I will follow up with a Medicated Wonder Shells for further disease prevention and Redox Balance. If the fish goes into the main aquarium (which is usually the case), I will still generally add the Medicated Wonder Shell but for most planted aquariums"www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.html#buy_fishCarl
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Post by Carl on Nov 26, 2016 20:21:52 GMT -5
I have updated the "Aquarium Disease Prevention" article. Here is an excerpt from the article: LIGHTING: Although this is an area where I have incomplete evidence (this does not mean the assumptions are wrong, just not totally proven), it is still an area where one should not short change your fish. I should also note that this IS a proven area when it comes to healthy anemones and coral in marine aquariums and plants in freshwater. The theory (and also as per my more limited tests/observations) is that the wavelengths that are beneficial for many animals such anemones as well as plants benefits fish in proper assimilation of nutrients as well as aiding in an balanced Redox Environment.www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.html#lightCarl
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Post by Carl on Feb 17, 2017 12:58:35 GMT -5
Another update to the "Aquarium Disease Prevention" article, including changes to content and two new pics
Here is an excerpt: "If what you want is a healthy successful aquarium, it is important that ALL steps are followed with the exception of step #13 (which is an important step if you are starting over after constant problems). These steps represent over three decades of tests and controlled studies. Each time you subtract each of these steps, you lower your chance for success, this includes the use of a true UV Sterilizer which not only helps with disease prevention, but is PROVEN to lower oxidative stress [1]. Omitting any of these steps or following one or two halfway, lowers your chance of preventing illness in your fish, so if you are frustrated with your aquarium due to constant “issues”, please follow ALL the steps outlined here before you give up on this wonderful hobby!"
Carl
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Post by Carl on Apr 18, 2017 16:57:56 GMT -5
I have updated this important article, in particular the section about too much care and fish slime coat. Here is an excerpt from the article: "...the slime (mucoprotein) coat can be damaged by rough handling (especially from fish nets). Startling of the fish can also damage this mucoprotein coat as it runs into objects, especially if abrasive.
This slime coat can also be damaged by issues not necessarily related to over care such as too much salt being used which can help generate this mucoprotein coat, but too much has the opposite affect of destroying it. Drastic pH swings, oxidizers and more can also damage the slime coat. What ever the cause, loss of a healthy mucoprotein coat can result in many opportunistic infections such as fungus/saprolegnia to get a hold. Reducers such as AAP/SeaChem Prime & especially StressGuard can help as well as AAP Wonder Shell mineral blocks.
Slime coat in fish is composed of a mucoprotein that serves as the frontline barrier to virtually everything from large physical objects to tiny bacteria. This barrier also works to keep essential fluids and electrolytes in the fish. Much like humans have various layers of protective, the fish have layers as well.
In their case, they have skin that is covered by a layer of scales. The scales, in turn, are covered by a layer of slime. Any break in the slime coat is similar to a cut or abrasion on our outermost layer of skin. Losing a large portion of their slime coat would be like peeling a large portion of our skin off"Reference: www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.html#slimeCarl
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Post by Carl on Dec 3, 2017 20:25:47 GMT -5
I have updated what I view as one of my more important article; the "Aquarium Disease Prevention" article. Here area few excerpts: "Disease prevention is probably one of the most important aspects of keeping a healthy aquarium, although a generalized statement. Following the steps outlined in this article will not guarantee a disease free aquarium, but the facts are your disease incidence will be markedly lower. (Please read ALL the steps outlined later in this article).
I have kept up many aquariums (marine and freshwater) during my years of aquarium maintenance. It was more of a challenge with clients than my personal aquariums because many of my customers overfed or did not tell me fish were sick until it was too late. However with the majority of regular contract clients, I kept a record of most everything that went into and out of the aquarium (equipment, procedures, foods used, water changes, treatments, etc.). With a few clients, most notably the Bahooka Restaurant with over 100 large aquariums here alone, we had full control, meaning we even fed the fish since we were there 5-6 days per week!"AND "Regular “quality” water changes are extremely important. By quality I mean to not over clean the water by taking fish out and washing the gravel."AND "True Level One UV sterilizers help prevent many bacterial, fungal, and protozoa diseases. In addition they help with oxidation properties (Redox Potential) of the water and in so doing, water clarity AND fish immunity. This "tool" is not essential, HOWEVER UV Sterilization is one more piece of the disease prevention puzzle and one of the more important pieces at that. MORE IMPORTANTLY; in the controlled tests I performed that are a good part of the basis of this article, while the aquariums without UV Sterilization but otherwise well maintained as per other points of this article certainly did well, the ones that also had level one UV Sterilization had less disease incidence and longer fish longevity!"AND "What is noteworthy that many fish foods assume that more protein is better and this is simply not true as often this can cause premature renal failure along with unnecessary pollution of the aquarium. As noted earlier, fiber content & energy levels are another issue directly related to long term fish health, longevity, and even how effective a treatment will be should a fish still get sick. The correct fiber levels provide better digestion and lower incidence of gut infections whole the proper energy levels prevent long term liver issues as well as lower oxidative stress resulting in higher disease resistance and fish longevity. My earliest tests confirmed this over & over!"
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Post by Carl on Jan 25, 2018 10:11:22 GMT -5
I have further updated this article; "AQUARIUM DISEASE PREVENTION; Proven Steps for a Healthy Aquarium" Here is an excerpt from the overview/about section of the article: "Disease prevention is probably one of the most important aspects of keeping a healthy aquarium, although a generalized statement. Following the steps outlined in this article will not guarantee a disease free aquarium, but the facts are your disease incidence will be markedly lower. (Please read ALL the steps outlined later in this article).
I have kept up many aquariums (marine and freshwater) during my years of aquarium maintenance. It was more of a challenge with clients than my personal aquariums because many of my customers overfed or did not tell me fish were sick until it was too late. However with the majority of regular contract clients, I kept a record of most everything that went into and out of the aquarium (equipment, procedures, foods used, water changes, treatments, etc.). With a few clients, most notably the Bahooka Restaurant with over 100 large aquariums here alone, we had full control, meaning we even fed the fish since we were there 5-6 days per week!
So over the years, I have experimented with many methods to lower disease incidence and increase fish longevity. Since I had many clients with dozens of aquarium under contract, which allowed me to utilize controlled tests to back up my observations in my literally 1000s of aquariums under my care over the years. This provided me a lot of data both observation based and control test based which I humbly submit differentiates my work from those who make observations based one or two or at most maybe a dozen aquariums in a fish room (which also refutes the Ad Hominem attacks my work sometimes garners in a few small but vocal un-moderated social media fish keeping circles). I also regularly sought out advice of other professionals to further improve my results (which seems to be a lost art of late too based on my experience in attempting to reach out and help others).
Taking measures to lower the chances of fish becoming sick is the best remedy for avoiding illness-related issues. For instance, many common diseases such as Ich can be limited by good preventive measures, while many other diseases such as Dropsy, Columnaris, and Aeromonas are opportunistic."Carl
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