Columnaris, Fungus in Fish

[Carl]

We have updated the "Columnaris, Fungus" article witha change of layout, as we are with eventually all our articles.

Information was also updated.

Eventually we will pay the professional proof reader that has re-written a couple other articles, to proof read this article too

www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html


Carl

[Carl]

I have further updated the Columnaris/Fungus article

Here is a quote from the article dealing with Fungus/Saprolegnia:
"Saprolegnia (often classified as a mold; from the Genus “Saprolegnia”) is often confused with Columnaris and for good reasons, they can often be similar in appearance. This similar appearance is why I combined these two unrelated pathogens into this article.
Close inspection though, will reveal that a fish with Saprolegnia will have hair like growth structures similar to what you might find outside growing on a decaying piece of wood in the forest. This is what differentiates Saprolegnia (referred to as fungus) from Columnaris as you will not see the thin hair like structures upon fish with Columnaris."

Reference:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html

Carl

[Carl]

I have updated the AAP article with further information, including new information about Columnaris & Fungus treatments ad prevention.

This includes some changes to the layout in the treatment section for easier reading

Here is a quote from some of the new content:
"I have also noted reports that while I have enjoyed good success with the above treatment method, assuming water parameters were spot on (including Redox and water temperature), that the failure rate is increasing.
This can be and likely has a lot to do with over breeding of certain fish such as many Bettas, resulting in weak genetics.
However antibiotic resistance is also likely on the increase, which is why this antibiotic combination should not be used on a regular basis every time your fish "burps".

Since the use of Nitrofurazone/Kanamycin is a synergistic combination, improving synergistic combinations via new research into human antibiotics resistance is yielding some interesting results with Oregon Grape Root which aids in antibiotic effectiveness as it contains a specific multi drug resistance pump inhibitor (MDR Inhibitor).
Resistant bacteria work by utilizing a pumping mechanism in its cell that when antibiotics enter that cell the pump immediately pumps out the antibiotics so it can have no effect on the MRSA cell. Oregon Grape Root works by blocking the bacteria's ability to pump out antibiotics.
Currently the best suggestion for use is opening a 400 mg Oregon Grape Root Capsule into 10 gallons of water along with the antibiotics, but keep in mind, aquarium use is still in its infancy!!!"

Reference:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html

Carl

[angelminx]

Love the comment about "whenever your fish burps !

[Carl]

I have updated the Saprolegnia/Fungus section of the article
Some changes to the layout were made as well as a new reference was added/cited.


Here is a quote from an updated section:
With Saprolegnia, the temperature tolerance by the Saprolegniasis is quite wide; 3C to 33C (37F to 91F).
However, sudden changes in temperature can make fish vulnerable to a Saprolegnia infection. So unlike with Colummnaris where an ideal temperature of 75F is best for cure, maintaining a not too hot, not too cold aquarium/pond that has STABLE temperatures is what is important!

Resource:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html#fungus

Carl

[Carl]

I have further updated the Fungus/Saprolegnia section of this article for clarity

Here is a snip from this section under preventative tips:
"Keep your filter flowing correctly.
Allowing organic debris, uneaten fish food, etc. to build up in canister filters, poor flow areas of wet/dry filters and under gravel filters, etc. can result in Saprolegnia issues.
Sometimes outright removal of filters that are the root cause can improve ongoing Saprolegnia issues. I have witnessed this first hand with the old tubular style of under gravel filters that were popular in the 1970s and recently have been sold again. "

Reference:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html#fungus

Carl

[Carl]

I have updated the Columnaris/Fungus article.

Beside new content, this update also includes a new picture showing the difference between Columnaris of the mouth and mouth fung



Reference:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html

Carl

[Carl]

I have further updated the Columnaris/Fungus (Saprolegnia) article, in particular the section dealing with Saprolegnia.

Here is an excerpt from this section:
"Another consideration in differentiating Fungus (Saprolegnia) from Columnaris is that Saprolegnia & fungi often grow on dead tissue, UNLIKE Columnaris which MUST have living tissue to live on.
This is an important distinction, since it is often found on dying or dead tissue of a live fish, as well as the remains of a decomposing fish, shrimp, etc.
Another noteworthy distinction is that Saprolegnia is generally a more slowly progressing disease than Columnaris (& in fact I have yet to witness a quick or especially sudden die off from Saprolegnia in my 1000s of contracted aquariums)"


www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html#fungus

Carl

[Carl]

I have further updated the Columnaris Article.

Here is an excerpt from the prevention section:
"* Diet: many aquarium keepers may not link this to Columnaris, and in fact the link is not direct. HOWEVER, I have also found based on my experience and tests that a fish that is not in optimum health because of a less than optimum diet IS IN FACT AT A HIGHER RISK FOR COLUMNARIS!
An optimized fish food is best that does not need to supplement with added vitamins due to "cooking out" of ingredients.
By optimized I mean the ingredients are what the fish need, not the more is better approach as with even most of the premium diets as 95% of fish foods over do proteins & energy.

WHY? Because, as an example, excess or un-digestible protein are a common cause of kidney (renal) failure and this allows opportunistic pathogens to get a foothold.
As well, too much energy results in fatty liver issues which again lowers disease resistance, especially too opportunistic infections such as Columnaris in particular."

www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html#further_info

Carl

[Carl]

I added a couple of pictures to the Columnaris article (diagnosis section)



Yellowish-white areas of degeneration of this shubunkin goldfish are visible in the ventral part of the first gill arch.
When the Columnaris infection spreads rapidly throughout the gill lamellae, the fish may die in a short period of time without any other apparent lesions.

www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html#identification1

Carl

[Carl]

I have updated the Columnaris article.

Here is an excerpt from the prevention steps section:
"* Diet: many aquarium keepers may not link this to Columnaris, and in fact the link is not direct.
HOWEVER, I have also found based on my experience and tests that a fish that is not in optimum health because of a less than optimum diet IS IN FACT AT A HIGHER RISK FOR COLUMNARIS!

An optimized fish food is best that does not need to supplement with added vitamins due to "cooking out" of ingredients.
By optimized I mean the ingredients are what the fish need IN OPTIMIZED PERCENTAGES, not the more is better approach as most prepared fish foods as 95% of fish foods OVER DO proteins & energy. This includes the majority of so-called premium prepared fish foods.

WHY? Because, as an example, excess or un-digestible protein are a common cause of kidney (renal) failure and this allows opportunistic pathogens to get a foothold.

As well, too much energy results in fatty liver issues which increases oxidative stress which then lowers disease resistance, especially to opportunistic infections such as Columnaris in particular.
Unfortunately EVERY fish food sold (even so-called premium brands such a New Life Spectrum, NorthFin, etc.) other than Clay Neighbor's AAP Custom do NOT follow guidelines set forth in a University study as well as long term experience by myself as to optimized energy levels.
The bottom line as per diet is; while changing your diet when the fish already have a Columnaris infection will do little, HOWEVER prevention and checking spread of this opportunistic infection is definitely improved by switching to a TRUE optimized premium diet such as Clay Neighbor's AAP Custom!"

Reference:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html#treatment1

Carl

[Carl]

I have updated the Columnaris/Saprolegnia article.

Here is an excerpt from the OTHER TREATMENTS section:
"Ciprofloxacin can be an effective synthetic broad spectrum antibiotic against gram-negative bacterium such as Columnaris and can be used in tank or in baths.
The difficulty is finding this antibiotic in small quantities as most is sold in large volumes at high prices (beware of eBay sellers at low prices of this antibiotic, as it is often outdated as per the manufacturer). Also note that Ciprofloxacin does not mix well in higher GH water and chelates mineral Cations, similar to Tetracylines and this limits is usefulness, especially since the optimum water conditions for cure/prevention are the very same water conditions that inhibit Ciprofloxacin effectiveness.
Triple Sulfa may also yield positive results for treatment of Columnaris if used early (although this is not as effective of a treatment for Columnaris as it used to be or as the Kanamycin/Nitrofurazone combination). If Sulfa drugs are combined with Trimethoprim, this also yields a more synergistic effect that can and does work well in cases of Columnaris that does not respond to the Nitrofurazone/Kanmycin treatment. The only caution is that Trimethoprim can be a problem with fish with large bleeding sores, so if such sores or similar are present, it should not be used.
My professional use of Triple Sulfa has found that it is occasionally a good choice along with baths and some salt for mild to moderate infections and is rarely harsh on aquarium environments including plants.
I stand behind Triple Sulfa as a possible alternative treatment. This despite a rude/condescending comment brought to my attention from Guppies.com. As well, this person is incorrect as per the use of a level 1 or higher UV Sterilizer, as it is excellent prevention for Columnaris, including the very well researched FACT it improves the Redox Balance.
As to his condescending remarks about me personally, Yes, I have done copious amounts of research (which many are cited here, including the use of Triple sulfa and other products containing sulfa drugs), as well as my consulting with one of my mentors, Dr. Herzog.

Doxycycline is one more alternative that may work and is readily available to the aquarium keeping market. Doxycycline is the only member of the Tetracycline family that I would recommend for a true Columnaris infection."

Reference:
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html

Carl

[Carl]

More updated to the Fish Columnaris/Fungus article

Here is an excerpt:
"STEP THREE:
A Fish bath or swab in Merbromin, Methylene Blue (not to be confused with malachite green), or Potassium Permanganate has also helped speed cure in most instances for my clients fish (or my personal fish) and SHOULD BE part of most Columnaris Treatment regimens!
IN FACT a direct swab of Merbromin has been very helpful from my experience for Columnaris external lesions of all kinds, except for those within the gills. The effectiveness of Merbromin lies in the fact Merbromin is an organomercuric disodium salt compound and a fluorescein that is effective on external infections because of its permanence, and lethality to bacteria, IN PARTICULAR COLUMNARIS!
Reference: Aquarium Fish Merbromin External Columnaris-Bacterial Treatment
Caution, do not use Potassium Permanganate with open sores present or directly on gills."



Carl

[Carl]

I have further updated what is now our most read article in the AAP library
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html

Here is an excerpt from the section dealing with the FOUR STEP treatment:
"STEP ONE:

The obvious first step is lowering stressors and improving water quality as outlined in these sections of this article (if you have jumped to treatment and not read these other sections; STOP now and please read these sections too):

* What is Columnaris

* Identification & Causes

* Prevention"

* Parameters to Consider for Prevention and Treatment of Columnaris This includes mineral Cations and lowering oxidative stress.
This also includes lowering water temperature to 75F (24C).

Failure to follow step one and just treating with medications is akin to asking someone for burn relief medications while still standing in a fire!"



Carl

[Carl]

Another update for the Columnaris in fish article including a new picture showing the steps to take

Here is an excerpt from the overview section:
"While Columnaris being only aerobic (preferring high oxygen environments) can occur in tanks with good filtration/circulation, however it is common in a tank with poor Redox/mineralization, overcrowding, high temperatures, and stress (such as an aggressive fish tank where many inhabitants are constantly bullying others).
As well weak genetics from in-bred fish (as with many Guppies and Bettas) or fish such as "feeder" or "carnival" goldfish that are often permanently damaged for early life crowding are also often at risk for Columnaris infections.

Unfortunately the above point is missed by many who often cite dirty, stagnant, or otherwise poor water conditions as cause of Columnaris, but since Columnaris is aerobic, it simply cannot thrive in poor water conditions that are low in oxygen as can Aeromonas or Saprolegnia.
This is NOT to say that sudden shifts in parameters such as spikes in ammonia (assuming an aerobic environment), will not trigger Columnaris, as this too is a stressor that can allow for an opportunistic Columnaris infection.
HOWEVER, as I have noted many times in my years in aquarium maintenance and "sick fish" service calls; dirty, foul, under filtered, low oxygen environments, RARELY trigger Columnaris infections.

Adding aeration without correcting mineralization problems based on false assumptions about Columnaris while ignoring ESSENTIAL mineral ions (Calcium in particular, but sodium chloride too) will only further force an out of balance Redox and not help with a cure of a true Columnaris infection!!

In lieu of often unavailable scientific microscopic identification, the above point is often noteworthy in identifying aerobic Columnaris from often anaerobic Aeromonas or the Mold Saprolegnia (generally referred to as "Fish Fungus").

What is noteworthy too as per identification & treatment of a true Columnaris infection is that most often, we as aquarium keepers can only make educated guesses based on classic outward signs of the disease and just as importantly, classic causes and proven treatment regimens.
The point here is that even if the symptoms look like Columnaris, but the water conditions do not match and one uses a treatment regimen likely not to work for Columnaris, this most likely was NOT a Columnaris infection!
So be careful of advice from so called experts (often found in social media) who stated they cured their fish of Columnaris with a water change and Tetracycline or Erythromycin, all the while NOT addressing known stressors such as lack of mineral Cations and/or aggressive tank mates, as this most likely was not a confirmed case of Columnaris."




Carl

[Carl]

I re-worded the update from a couple months ago due some thinking just a water change fixes water parameters & stressors (it does not)

Here is an excerpt:
STEP ONE:

The obvious first step is lowering stressors and improving water parameters (not necessarily just "clean water") as outlined in these sections of this article.
If you have jumped to treatment and not read these other sections; STOP now and please read these sections too!

* What is Columnaris

* Identification & Causes

* Prevention

* Parameters to Consider for Prevention and Treatment of Columnaris
This includes mineral Cations and lowering oxidative stress.
This also includes lowering water temperature to 75F (24C).

www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html#treatment1

Carl

[Carl]

Another update to the popular Columnaris article.

www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html#further_info


Here is an excerpt:
Parameters to Consider for Prevention and Treatment of Columnaris:

Please note that if ANY of these parameters are "off", it may difficult or even impossible to effectively & completely cure a serious Columnaris infection even if the most effective Columnaris treatment is used (AAP Spectrogram & Wound Control/Merbromin topically)!
The results of NOT addressing these parameters and stressors is often a reoccurrence!!
Remember that Columnaris is a disease of opportunity, so even though one may have an otherwise well maintained aquarium, any of these stressors could make it easier for Columnaris to get a foothold in a compromised fish.
There is no mystery here based on my decades of experience, yet this seems to be a part of the Columnaris puzzle so often missed!

*Decrease Fish Load, Crowding Columnaris outbreaks have been shown in University studies to be prevalent in crowded, re-circulating systems, which is a reason I recommend against these types of systems even for fish stores.
This is also common in “African Cichlid” tanks or similar where there is constant stress due to constant battling for hierarchy.

*Ammonia, nitrites; should be 0 ppm

*Nitrates (long term exposure of nitrates over 80 ppm can reduce resistance to disease, under 40 is better)

*Lower your temperature; under 75 F (24 C) (only during treatment).
Goldfish and similar cooler water fish should always be kept under 80F (27C) whenever possible.

*pH (depending upon fish kept) Stability is more important than the actual pH. In other words, do NOT chase you pH, find a KH above 50 ppm and keep your pH stable at whatever pH you get, whether 6.5 or 7.5

* KH: generally a KH of 50 + (what is best here depends upon fish kept). This is related to pH and maintains pH stability via adequate carbonates

*Positive Ionic Composition of the Water & GH: this is a little more complex than this article will deal with, however this is related to both the GH and Redox.
In a nutshell MG++ (positive magnesium ions) and CA++ (positive calcium ions) play a part in adhesion of Columnaris by reducing surface potential and repulsive forces.
This is important, please read this article for further information:
Aquarium Chemistry; GH, Calcium, Magnesium, Positive Mineral Ions/Cations.

AAP Wonder Shell, Oxidizers, chlorine, Aquarium Co-op
VIDEO: Aquarium Redox Part 2 | Oxidizers & Reducers | AAP Wonder Shell Experiment
This video demonstrates the affect of oxidative stress and how mineral Cations act on oxidizers within the aquarium water column.

*Redox Balance; although often not generally a major concern for the average aquarist, it is important to understand when problems persist especially since advanced aquarium keeping research shows its importance in disease prevention. In particular, this is an important consideration for an aerobic bacterium such as Columnaris, since often other more obvious water parameters may be good while this one is not.

Redox balance is related to GH (although if all positively charges ions are lost from calcium and other minerals that make up GH, you can still have a higher GH of say 300 ppm and still have a poor Redox Balance).
But the point I want to make is that websites such as Wikipedia and many others are dead wrong to imply that "The bacteria can persist in water for up to 32 days when the hardness is 50 ppm or more" is a causative factor for Columnaris.

While Columnaris Bacterium certainly need these minerals, so do fish and to make the strange leap of thought to state any GH over 50 can lead to Columnaris. This is simply bad science, not to mention proves a lack of practical experience on the part of authors of these articles.
The fact is 50 ppm is a very low GH, even for many soft water fish and more importantly these minerals are essential for correct osmoregulation and a supplier of essential positive electrolytes necessary for fish immunity that Redox research has proven. It is noteworthy that these mineral cations play an important role in adhesion of Columnaris by reducing surface potential and repulsive forces, so for an aquarium keeper to attempt to lower minerals and positive mineral ions is misguided at best.

Please Reference: Aquarium Redox Balance; Importance in Fish Disease Prevention

*True Level 1 Capable UV Sterilizer; Related to Redox is the use of a TRUE level one or higher UV Sterilizer. This cannot only lower Columnaris bacterium in the water column, more importantly a UV Sterilizer lowers oxidizers in the water column that can and do cause oxidative stress which then provides an opportunity for Columnaris. A cheap clarifying UV purchased from a discounter is not the answer here either.
Reference: UV Sterilization; Facts & Information

* Diet: many aquarium keepers may not link this to Columnaris, and in fact the link is not direct.
HOWEVER, I have also found based on my experience and tests that a fish that is not in optimum health because of a less than optimum diet IS IN FACT AT A HIGHER RISK FOR COLUMNARIS!

An optimized fish food is best that does not need to supplement with added vitamins due to "cooking out" of ingredients.
By optimized I mean the ingredients are what the fish need IN OPTIMIZED PERCENTAGES, not the more is better approach as most prepared fish foods as 95% of fish foods OVER DO proteins & energy. This includes the majority of so-called premium prepared fish foods.

[Carl]

I made yet another update to the popular Columnaris article

www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html

Here is an excerpt:
Flavobacterium columnare gained the nick name “Columnaris” because wet mounts of Flexibacter prepared from diseased fish appear as column-like, "haystack" colonies.

Columnaris, which is a gram negative strictly aerobic bacterium, is often prevalent in systems with poor mineralization, but not so much water high in tanins and other dissolved organics.
Columnaris is "Ubiquitous", meaning it is found everywhere, however its presence does not necessarily lead to Columnaris disease.
For these reasons, those who state that low oxygen levels can cause Columnaris along with the need to euthanize surviving fish (& sterilize the aquarium) are providing 100% INCORRECT information.

This unfortunately flys in the face of a new YouTube video claiming that Columnaris thrives in aquariums with low oxygen levels & high DOC. This defies even common sense logic since Columnaris is a strictly aerobic bacteria!!!